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Thread: Star Mobile 1 Build

  1. #121
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I was able to get the brakes bled this weekend. Seemed to be a little bit more of a challenge for me than I had originally anticipated. I must admit this was my first attempt to bleed brakes, so I am sure that has almost everything to do with it. Anyway, I went one time around on all corners with the vacuum method. I did have a couple connections I needed to tighten, I guess I also made the rookie mistake of not placing teflon tape on the connections coming out of the bottom of the reservoirs as well as the connections going into the calipers themselves. I had tightened both as tight as I thought I could get them and both were still seeping. I was challenged a bit by the Wilwood Brakes that required rotating to 3 or 9 o'clock while still around the rotor as the the positioning seemed to put the flex lines in some peculiar configurations. After completing yesterday morning, I let the chassis sit for the remainder of the day on the lift and periodically checked for leaks...so far so good. I did have an issue with my lift where it would just continue to go up! I think the switch is bad, will deal with the manufacturer on that later today. I am going to go ahead and make another round on all corners tonight bleeding the lines and check once again for leaks. I used the vacuum method the first time around, I will have a helper this time and will try the old fashioned method for the final go around.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  2. #122
    Well done, that job is fast approaching for me too.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  3. #123
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  4. #124
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Is there some additional information about setting up the brake bias bar that ya'll may be able to share? After looking at the manual and then the Wilwood instructions, it just seems like there is more to the set-up than just adjusting the threaded rods from each MC forward or backwards. I have currently bled my system once (I know I still have some air in the system), but the diagram that is in the manual shows the front brake clevis forward of the rear brake clevis with "no effort" or at rest, then the clevises are even at "moderate effort" and finally the front clevis edges past the rear clevis with "heavy effort". Am I taking the drawing too literal in thinking that the clevises should appear this way as they travel? Mine start out in the correct position but then just maintain the same relative position throughout travel. I will qualify by saying that my MC's are installed opposite of the picture (the bores are correct for each respective brake...Fronts 3/4", Rears 5/8") as during my initial buildup and plumbing (other than the diagram for the bias bar set-up) there was no reference to if a certain MC needed to be placed to the left or right. Anyway, I have adjusted rods forward and back on each MC, alternated the set-up and it seems no matter what I try I get the same visual result. There is a nut on the actual threaded bias rod (runs at angle in the picture), but even loosening and tightening this doesn't seem to achieve a difference. I think these are the areas where being a "Newbie" create some challenges, as your only frame of reference is the manual and we all know that what it depicts is sometimes inaccurate. I'm open to any advice, input or feedback on this one.
    Thanks

    Bias.jpg

    No Effort...
    IMG_3969.JPG
    Moderate Effort...
    IMG_3970.JPG
    Heavy Effort...
    IMG_3971.JPG
    Last edited by JOP33; 07-14-2017 at 06:43 AM.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  5. #125
    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    Is there some additional information about setting up the brake bias bar that ya'll may be able to share? After looking at the manual and then the Wilwood instructions, it just seems like there is more to the set-up than just adjusting the threaded rods from each MC forward or backwards. I have currently bled my system once (I know I still have some air in the system), but the diagram that is in the manual shows the front brake clevis forward of the rear brake clevis with "no effort" or at rest, then the clevises are even at "moderate effort" and finally the front clevis edges past the rear clevis with "heavy effort". Am I taking the drawing too literal in thinking that the clevises should appear this way as they travel? Mine start out in the correct position but then just maintain the same relative position throughout travel. I will qualify by saying that my MC's are installed opposite of the picture (the bores are correct for each respective brake...Fronts 3/4", Rears 5/8") as during my initial buildup and plumbing (other than the diagram for the bias bar set-up) there was no reference to if a certain MC needed to be placed to the left or right. Anyway, I have adjusted rods forward and back on each MC, alternated the set-up and it seems no matter what I try I get the same visual result. There is a nut on the actual threaded bias rod (runs at angle in the picture), but even loosening and tightening this doesn't seem to achieve a difference. I think these are the areas where being a "Newbie" create some challenges, as your only frame of reference is the manual and we all know that what it depicts is sometimes inaccurate. I'm open to any advice, input or feedback on this one.
    Thanks

    Bias.jpg

    No Effort...
    IMG_3969.JPG
    Moderate Effort...
    IMG_3970.JPG
    Heavy Effort...
    IMG_3971.JPG
    I sure am glad you posted this. I have questioned my install every since I did it. I don't have mine plumbed yet, but when the pedal is depressed the rear M/C (outboard) moves first and leads during the entire pedal stroke. Is it because there is no hydraulic resistance yet?

  6. #126
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I sure am glad you posted this. I have questioned my install every since I did it. I don't have mine plumbed yet, but when the pedal is depressed the rear M/C (outboard) moves first and leads during the entire pedal stroke. Is it because there is no hydraulic resistance yet?
    I am not sure and it is unclear with the "drawing" whether they are just trying to show that the Front receives more pressure or if it physically should move past the rear.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  7. #127
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Came across this in another thread... http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Brake-advice

    Not sure it answers anything though.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  8. #128
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Had a far more impressive "brake bleed" tonight, with significant rotor engagement on all four corners. Did uncover a few more small leaks, tightened, wiped down and am hopeful they will be dry in the morning. If not I may spend the rest of the weekend reforming & flaring some lines to reduce connections...fingers crossed! I must say at this point there is probably something to using the pre-flared pieces of brake line that FFR sends with the kit and looking back I would probably have tried a little harder to make them work for me knowing what I know now...everyday is a learning experience.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  9. #129
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Well I was hopeful that all was well on the brakes, however I woke to two connections leaking slightly. So knowing that I had already torqued on these (several times) to try and get them them to quit seeping and also hearing the voices of the Instructors at build school in the back of my head saying..."If you have a leak don't just wrench down on it to make it go away...if it's leaking while it's sitting in your garage, driving it down the road at 70mph probably isn't going to help the situation". So, I bit the bullet, vacuumed the fluid out, went ahead and changed the MC's around so that the layout would match the manual and proceeded to remove (6) connections out of the lines by re-plumbing some areas with longer runs. Things were moving along at a good pace and I had just finished all the forms and flares and had everything loosely fit when I went to re-tighten the tee and the front driver side brake caliper adapter fitting (the round fitting that connects to the flex lines)...when SNAP! The male end of the tee snap off in the adapter...needless to say, I am now awaiting the arrival of a new adapter from Summit. I still feel good about the changes I made and have my fingers crossed that once I get the fitting I should be able to close the system back up and bleed the brakes and move on...and if not, I may have to turn the brakes over to a professional, because as it is right now I may have the most expensive brake lines ever put on a FFR 33'!!!!

    Fun times though!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  10. #130
    Ugh, what do you think the cause was? Do the flares look good? I remember making some in the distant past with one of those cheap tools that didn't always look perfect, but they were in copper and it was so soft that I never had a leak once tightened.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  11. #131
    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    Well I was hopeful that all was well on the brakes, however I woke to two connections leaking slightly. So knowing that I had already torqued on these (several times) to try and get them them to quit seeping and also hearing the voices of the Instructors at build school in the back of my head saying..."If you have a leak don't just wrench down on it to make it go away...if it's leaking while it's sitting in your garage, driving it down the road at 70mph probably isn't going to help the situation". So, I bit the bullet, vacuumed the fluid out, went ahead and changed the MC's around so that the layout would match the manual and proceeded to remove (6) connections out of the lines by re-plumbing some areas with longer runs. Things were moving along at a good pace and I had just finished all the forms and flares and had everything loosely fit when I went to re-tighten the tee and the front driver side brake caliper adapter fitting (the round fitting that connects to the flex lines)...when SNAP! The male end of the tee snap off in the adapter...needless to say, I am now awaiting the arrival of a new adapter from Summit. I still feel good about the changes I made and have my fingers crossed that once I get the fitting I should be able to close the system back up and bleed the brakes and move on...and if not, I may have to turn the brakes over to a professional, because as it is right now I may have the most expensive brake lines ever put on a FFR 33'!!!!

    Fun times though!
    You switched the master cylinders around? Now I am really doubting my install. when sitting in the drivers seat, The front MC (3/4 in.) is on the right and the rear (5/8 in.) is on the left. Is this correct? That is what I interpreted from the FFR illustration.

  12. #132
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    You switched the master cylinders around? Now I am really doubting my install. when sitting in the drivers seat, The front MC (3/4 in.) is on the right and the rear (5/8 in.) is on the left. Is this correct? That is what I interpreted from the FFR illustration.
    You are correct...and now mine matches that. The manual (other than the drawing) had not stated which to place where (at least that I had come across) and in the end I do believe it would work either way, but since I had everything a part (again) I went ahead and matched it to the drawing for consistency sake...it would have bothered me the entire time I owned the car if I would have left. Sorry, believe the last thing I wanted to do is to add to the confusion.

    HTH
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  13. #133
    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    You are correct...and now mine matches that. The manual (other than the drawing) had not stated which to place where (at least that I had come across) and in the end I do believe it would work either way, but since I had everything a part (again) I went ahead and matched it to the drawing for consistency sake...it would have bothered me the entire time I owned the car if I would have left. Sorry, believe the last thing I wanted to do is to add to the confusion.

    HTH
    No worries. I was already doubting myself. You have really helped. Thanks.

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