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Thread: Boss 427 Build

  1. #121
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    Edit: First attempt at embedding pics instead of thumbnails.

    Been a while. I've had a few big things going on and haven't had much time for the Boss.

    So I ran my fuel lines before I had an engine and didnt really know where to end the hardlines in the engine compartment. Once the engine was installed, I found that although the hardlines cleared the engine and exhaust, there is zero room to swing a wrench when securing the flex lines to the hardlines. No crowsfeet, no shorties, nothing would work. So I remade my fuel pressure hardline from the filter up to the engine compartment, this time finishing it off at the top edge of the footbox. The return line would have required an entire new line back to the rear axle. Didnt have enough line so cut it under the floor and patched in a new section, also going to the top of the footbox. Got my flex lines made and attached to the FiTech.

    Also took an afternoon and made my ignition wires.



    I did a bunch of research on how to install the Fortes mechanical throttle. Wasn't a lot of very good info. Started installing, then the current thread on mechanical throttles came out. Realized I made a huge error. I mean the next day I was now reading how I screwed up. I will keep it short... the fail was that I didnt mount the crossbar low enough to clear inside the driver footbox. Realized it as I was assembling, so I pointed the control arms down. Angles were a bit odd, but it seemed to be working. Tubes were cut and I had gotten some LH thread balljoints and jam nuts to install so the tubes could be adjusted by turning. Now the throttle is way too notchy coming off idle and those angles that seemed OK are not.

    I'll be taking it all apart, lowering the rod ends in the firewall as low as possible, order a new throttle tube and going at it again. I dont know what I will do with the holes that are already drilled, but I will have to do something. Maybe some of those metal push in panel plugs painted grey to semi-match the powdercoat. Wont look right, but maybe it will look OK.


    No, the drivers footwell bellcrank is not pointing at that extreme of an angle. Its not good, but better than it looks.

    Decided I hated (and I never use that word lightly) my dash layout. Way too unorganized, too flippant, too slapped together. My OCD was going nuts every time I looked at it. I know I have a lot of switches and stuff, needed to find a good way to organize. Gary Luigi is driving a Coyote Roadster around in gel coat and lives not more than a few miles from me. He asked to come over one day to see what I was doing and we spent a few hours talking cars and stuff. Anyways, he custom made a true carbon fiber center console (and entire dash!) for his radio and switch gear... asked if I wanted the aluminum mold he made up. Also mentioned he had a blank dash. So we did a deal and traded some stuff and I'm back in business. I laid out the switches and knobs in a much better fashion on the console. He had some holes and cutouts in it, so I had to flush patch some and others I was just able to tape over with some 600mph speed tape.

    Console will be a lot of work. Virtually every wire will have to be extended down through the Replicaparts undertray I have after cutting a slot in it. I may take the opportunity to run the tail wiring through there into the trans tunnel, removing it from the firewall as designed. Then I'll use that firewall hole for the engine sensor wiring.

    Sat in the stock seat and laid out some cutouts of my gauges on the dash. These are full size outside diameter, not cut guides. I think I like it. At least much more than what I had before...


    Since this was taken, I centered up the speedo and small gauges, aligned the ignition switch and horn button and moved the GR, GL and BH led lights to center in front of the driver. Also ordered matching switches for the Haz and Eng Fan (those did have red guards over them, but I'm going with red labels instead). Liking it more and more.

    However, not crazy about the footbax fan switches sticking out of the side of the console. I may move the fan switches to the front and then put the seat heat switches on the side. That way there's not a switch sticking out of the side.

    Thanks for coming over and talking out some issues with me, Gary. Not only good to hang out (and your car is looking awesome!) but you're the first F5 builder that's looked at my car. I appreciate the input and the help.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Boydster; 07-20-2017 at 06:34 AM. Reason: spelling
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

  2. #122
    The new dash layout looks much cleaner! It good to have a local builder and see your progress.

    Gary
    Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash

  3. #123
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    Thanks again, Gary.

    Spent a few hours wiring up the new switch panel and installing all the proper switches. Ran all the wires a little long to 2 - 12pin Molex connectors. This way I'll be able to pull out the panel and disconnect for maintenance.

    One thing I changed in order to have matching switches was for the Hazards. I'm using a SPST switch. To prevent backfeeding to the opposite side with both sides attached to the same teminal, I'll be installing 2 Schottky diodes rated at 30v and 5amps. The amperage will be enough because I'm using all LED's, including the indicator. Research shows they consume about .5 amp each. The Shottky's consume very little power, so I'll still have plenty to the lights.

    Extending the dash wiring and installing the mating Molex connectors tomorrow.

    Last edited by Boydster; 07-22-2017 at 06:09 AM.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

  4. #124
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    Got a few things done this week. The new switchpanel and matching dash wiring is all run and connectors installed. Everything that has a load works well. The Shottky diodes work perfectly for the SPST switch for the hazard lights.



    Did a rework on the throttle assembly. Dropped the firewall mounting rod ends as low as possible against the 2x2. Cut the washers so the bolt head is right against the frame. Now the bellcrank inside the footbox clears and all the angles are much better. Throttle is smooth and seems very controllable. Note that I modified the original with some LH threaded balljoints (see the aluminum tape on the tubing end.... that's the LH threaded end) and some stainless lock collars. I like the LH / RH thread on the tubing so its very easy to make on the fly adjustments in the future. No pic, but I also had to move the brake pedal pad over away from the throttle so my foot would fit in there.





    I'll get some of those metal panel plugs to fill the holes (sigh) and maybe try painting them to match the grey. If they dont look good, I'll put some stainless bolts in there.

    Next is some catch up items like the heater plumbing (got some stuff figured out there that was holding me up) and the footbox fan butterfly cables and then I'll get back to work on the dash and then engine wiring.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

  5. #125
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    So... heater plumbing. This took a lot longer than expected.

    First up was where and how to mount the electric heater valve I bought from Old Air Products. I moved it all over the place and there just wasnt a good spot. Till I found some padded U-bolts at McMaster Carr with 1/4-20 thread and a 1" inside diameter (PN 30555T31). Then the top of the passenger footbox looked like a good place where all the hoses would line up and it would all look nice n neat.





    It is very secure and sealed up nicely.

    Next came a place to install the Speedhut coolant temp sensor. I'm using the 3/8 intake port for the 3/8 FiTech coolant temp sensor and the 1/2 port for the heater tap. I thought about building up a brass stack of elbows, adapters and tees, but didnt like the look, not one bit. Dont have a port on the t-stat housing, and besides, I'm not crazy about placing a sensor after the t-stat anyways. Found this when searching through Summit and thought it was perfect... fits the SBF 5/8 heater hose (same as the heater core and the elec valve) and has a 1/8 port that works with the Speedhut temp sensor.

    Bought it, waited, got it aaaaaand the temp sensor is way too long. Threads wont even reach. Ok, it took me a while, but I finally figured out that the temp sensor can be shortened. I took the end off all the way at the notch limit...



    ...and it fit in there snug as a bug. Of course, there had to be one more hitch in the plan because thats how these things go... right? The last hose to be installed from the valve back to the water pump return... 3/4. So then I had to find, buy and wait for another adapter (Amazon Prime to the rescue!) to plumb that last hose. You can just see the adapter behind the temp sensor.

    [Edit: This Autometer adapter has a 8-32 threaded hole in it for a ground wire so it works with single contact sensors. The Speedhuts have 2 contacts, so use a remote ground, so I didnt need it, but a nice feature worth mentioning.]



    Other than that, started working on other Speedhut wire harness's and FiTech wiring. Had to get two 1/2 x 1/8 NPT adapters to install the oil temp and oil pressure sensors, but they are in and the wiring is run pretty clean and secure.





    Still working on the header issue with Gas-N. Turns out I got a set of 302 based headers for my 351 based engine, then they sent me a set for Roush heads with 3" bolt spacing, not my 2". Georgie has me on the right track, tho, and I'm confident he'll get the right thing to me soon.

    Accomplished a few other small things that always take time. Drilling the roll bars for bolts, weather pack connector for the engine fan, started working on mounting the Lokar brake handle on top of the tunnel, setting the mechanical advance curve on the Pertronix distributor. Ran the rear wire harness behind my switch panel and down through the tunnel top... one less harness coming through the firewall. Working on a neat way to hide all those FiTech fuse holders.

    More soon....
    Last edited by Boydster; 08-16-2017 at 03:01 AM.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

  6. #126
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    Havent been working on the Boss lately. Took about 2 weeks off to stave off some mounting frustrations with the details. Seemed like every time I went to work on something, I needed more parts or pieces or orings or adapters or electrical connectors or something that required a trip to Lowes, Ace, Amazon, a vendor or possibly the liquor store. Or maybe I sometimes just dont know what the hell I'm doing and it takes some time to figure it out. I've been going at it pretty hard since February, so maybe it was just time for a break.

    But the other day it was pretty nice out and I was doing some organizing in the garage and I felt it was time to get back in it. Most of the wiring is done except the dash and the fuel injection. I'm using an FiTech Go EFI4-600HP kit in black, PN 30002. I also use the 30003 400hp system on my 306 1987 5.0 Mustang, so I'm kinda familiar. Its just an art to integrate it to whatever you've got.

    Since there's been a few threads on wiring up the FiTech, here's some details on what I did and why.

    FiTech blue to coil negative. This is the engine rotation and rpm signal to the ECU.
    FiTech yellow to fan green (fan relay ground). The FiTech monitors the water temp and controls the fan on/off according to presets. I have the sensor in the intake manifold. I also have a parallel manual control, but the only thing it overrides is the FiTech and the sensor, not the relay. So I will be carrying a spare.
    FiTech orange to fuel pump tan. The FiTech can go either PWM or always full on, choices made in presets. Full on may use a relay if desired or if your pump draws more than 15 amps. There is an internal relay for full on in the ECU and there's an alternate internal circuit for PWM. PWM is primarily used during idle or low cruise; anything else kicks in the internal relay and full power takes over. I'm using the PWM circuit to just maybe save some wear and tear. Since I'm not using the fuel pump relay, I wired the FiTech orange directly into the tan wire going into the rear harness.
    FiTech white to ignition switch orange. This supplies a power signal to the FiTech to turn on, run the pump for a bit, cycle the injectors and give a bit of prime. Just a signal wire... very low load. I connected directly to the ignition switch terminal after making sure the orange is hot during ON and CRANK.
    FiTech large red to battery. Instead of putting ANOTHER wire in the engine compartment, I ran this through the firewall with the others and also attached to the ignition switch on the batt terminal. This is the main 25amp fused power to the FiTech unit.

    Thats it. I did not use the black nor the violet / green pair as I'm keeping all my timing in the distributor. I'm using a Pertronix Ignitor III distributor with mechanical and vac advance. I plan on running 30 degrees by 4000rpm with a vac retard. This is backed up by Ford Tech.

    Not bad, eh? I powered the car up and the fuel injection came to life. It ran the pump for a bit, cycled the injectors and allowed me in to begin setting up. Did a quick diagnostic and no faults.

    Getting closer to first start... hmmm, still need some headers. Oh Georgie.....



    2 more quick things.

    I was invited to a Lawn Show at a private residence this last Saturday. Lots of awesome, beautiful cars, but not one Cobra. Gotta remedy that next year. Anyways, I think I found my dark metallic grey that I want. It was covering a 2017 Aston Martin DB-11. Found out the paint is called Magnetic Silver. Really looks much better in person than what my phone may capture. Need to research this paint some more. Think lighter grey metallic stripes that match the light grey leather interior accents with polished stainless exhaust and roll bars. I'm really liking it.


    Then on sunday I went out on my bike to meet some of the Capital Area Cobra Club for breakfast. I do enjoy these folks, but haven't been out to see them in a while. Got a nice pic of my Triumph Rocket III next to a members Everett-Morrison 428FE / 4 speed / pin drive machine. When he departed... yeah, it talked the talk.


    OK, thats it for me. I got a fire in me to build, build, build. See ya later.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

  7. #127
    Very nice Boyd... I also went with a dark Metallic gray. I looked at a lot of them, but I settled on the Subaru color... When my paint store mixed the paint for me, they made it a little darker.... I think too dark, but the color came out great... Car has been painted and cleared for a week... I really need to update my thread. I lost wind in my sails thanks to Photobucket limiting people...

  8. #128
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awd-turbo View Post
    Very nice Boyd... I also went with a dark Metallic gray. I looked at a lot of them, but I settled on the Subaru color... When my paint store mixed the paint for me, they made it a little darker.... I think too dark, but the color came out great... Car has been painted and cleared for a week... I really need to update my thread. I lost wind in my sails thanks to Photobucket limiting people...
    Looking forward to seeing it Turbo! It works pretty good to put your pics in your Gallery here, then just use the link to post them. Thats what I'm doing above. Once you get used to it, it goes pretty quick. I wanna see it!
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

  9. #129
    All my pictures are too big size wise. I haven't had time to sit and look at shrinking them down....

  10. #130
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    A few good things have happened over the last 2 weeks. My Nephew came down from Harrisburg for the long weekend... on the same day that my new 351 based headers showed up from Georgie at Gas-N. No way I was letting this opportunity go to waste, so I put him to work. He did a reserve stint in the USAF working on C-17's out of Dover, so I think I can trust him.



    There's the gap I'd been looking for on the drivers side header-to-engine mount. About 3/8". Just what I wanted. Thanks Georgie!!



    Next up was the dash. I'd been putting this off as it needs to be done very right and if I dont like it, it can be quite expensive to redo. Using a tip from Edward, I used a circle cutter in my drill press at the lowest speed. It made a lot of noise and cuttings, but it got the job done. I used a step drill bit for the ignition switch, horn switch and the indicator lights. Glued down the 1/8" Volara foam (also from Edwards build). Even though there were some wrinkles in the foam from my dog sleeping on it when I wasnt careful, I figured the leather would just go right over them. I was wrong.



    There were 2 more wrinkles at least as bad as this one.
    Ripped it all off and started over.



    This time it came out much better. I was very careful about wrinkles as well as metal shavings and even pieces of dirt. I know this time that every little thing is going to show up. The gauges are my Speedhut's that I custom ordered on my own, starting with their Cobra set. No clock.



    I really like the look... classy but serious. And just a bit fun. BTW, those indicator lights are 1/2 intensity LED's from Ron Francis made for interior use. I didnt like the idea of a full intensity LED shining right in my face. We will see how they work. The horn button is an LED illuminated piece I got from Amazon. The stock one fell apart on me and I havent seen the spring since.

    Started wiring the back of the dash. All of the daisy chains are in there and the sensor plugs are labeled. Still have some small individual wires to run. Everything will be plugged in so the dash is easily removable, as well as each gauge being removable from the dash. I have a few 12-pin Molex connectors to connect all the free wires for the horn, indicator lights, tach input, gauge lighting, etc. Thanks to Jeff Kleiners earlier posts about wiring the Speedhut gauge lighting into the RF harness... took a bit to understand the difference in gauge and pointer lighting. Once I read his posts, it all made sense and was very easy to draw and figure out.



    Keeping on... still working to first engine start.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

  11. #131
    Senior Member
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    Your gauges look good from the front or the back. Nice work!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  12. #132
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    Thanks Yama-Bro. Gettin there!
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

  13. #133
    Senior Member Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    A few good things have happened over the last 2 weeks. My Nephew came down from Harrisburg for the long weekend... on the same day that my new 351 based headers showed up from Georgie at Gas-N. No way I was letting this opportunity go to waste, so I put him to work. He did a reserve stint in the USAF working on C-17's out of Dover, so I think I can trust him.



    There's the gap I'd been looking for on the drivers side header-to-engine mount. About 3/8". Just what I wanted. Thanks Georgie!!



    Next up was the dash. I'd been putting this off as it needs to be done very right and if I dont like it, it can be quite expensive to redo. Using a tip from Edward, I used a circle cutter in my drill press at the lowest speed. It made a lot of noise and cuttings, but it got the job done. I used a step drill bit for the ignition switch, horn switch and the indicator lights. Glued down the 1/8" Volara foam (also from Edwards build). Even though there were some wrinkles in the foam from my dog sleeping on it when I wasnt careful, I figured the leather would just go right over them. I was wrong.



    There were 2 more wrinkles at least as bad as this one.
    Ripped it all off and started over.



    This time it came out much better. I was very careful about wrinkles as well as metal shavings and even pieces of dirt. I know this time that every little thing is going to show up. The gauges are my Speedhut's that I custom ordered on my own, starting with their Cobra set. No clock.



    I really like the look... classy but serious. And just a bit fun. BTW, those indicator lights are 1/2 intensity LED's from Ron Francis made for interior use. I didnt like the idea of a full intensity LED shining right in my face. We will see how they work. The horn button is an LED illuminated piece I got from Amazon. The stock one fell apart on me and I havent seen the spring since.

    Started wiring the back of the dash. All of the daisy chains are in there and the sensor plugs are labeled. Still have some small individual wires to run. Everything will be plugged in so the dash is easily removable, as well as each gauge being removable from the dash. I have a few 12-pin Molex connectors to connect all the free wires for the horn, indicator lights, tach input, gauge lighting, etc. Thanks to Jeff Kleiners earlier posts about wiring the Speedhut gauge lighting into the RF harness... took a bit to understand the difference in gauge and pointer lighting. Once I read his posts, it all made sense and was very easy to draw and figure out.



    Keeping on... still working to first engine start.
    Thanks, Boyd. Now I have to go clean my mess of wires up! Yours look fantastic.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  14. #134
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Thanks, Boyd. Now I have to go clean my mess of wires up! Yours look fantastic.
    Thanks Papa. I think it looks OK, but also kind of hacked together, but thats coming from years of airline experience. My goal here was to make the dash where it can pull out, then by simply snipping a few ty-raps, each gauge may be unplugged and pulled out. Also by disconnecting a few Molex connectors, the entire dash may be taken away. The remainder of the wiring behind the dash, well, I'm trying to keep it neat without being too picky about it. I'm not cutting, soldering and re-pinning just to make correct lengths. It will be secure and accessible, but not aircraft-pretty...

    Thanks and keep up your good work!!
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017

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