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Thread: Ducky2009 MK4 Build #9035

  1. #121
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Hood pins (on the front of the hood), no, I'm not using them.
    Thanks Paul
    Maybe you didn't catch my feeble attempt at humor. Right, you're not using them. And neither have most of the other thousands of kits that have been produced with the now almost standard hood hinges.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  2. #122
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Body trial fit

    Set the body for the first time. Definitely need to trim the truck sheet metal to allow the body to move forward about 1/2" or so. Also need to adjust the lower radiator hose to allow the bottom of the rad to swing downward to allow the sheet metal rad inlet to align correctly. Left the lower hose long on purpose till now.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-29-2023 at 10:03 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  3. #123
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Front Bumper Holes - Drilled at FFR

    Has anyone else found the FFR drilled holes for the front bumper out of position? The body is sitting on the 3/4" rails at the hood opening. Th Radiator aluminum is aligned. Debating which to do, Drilling new holes in the body or in the frame mount brackets.

    Bodywork - PS Bumper bolt mount.jpg Bodywork - PS Bumper bolt holes - 1.jpg Bodywork - DS Bumper bolt mount.jpg Bodywork - DS Bumper bolt holes.jpg Bodywork - Radiator Aluminum.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-19-2017 at 06:13 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  4. #124
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The body shouldn't be sitting on the 3/4-inch hood rails. It should be 1/2-inch or so above the rails. Cushioning material is provided in the kit for the gap. You'll have trouble with the hood fit and specifically the hinges if the gap isn't maintained. Among other things. Try mounting the body front using the holes provided. Don't make new ones. You'll probably need to reposition the radiator aluminum.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  5. #125
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Paul is exactly right.

    Jeff

  6. #126
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    The body shouldn't be sitting on the 3/4-inch hood rails. It should be 1/2-inch or so above the rails. Cushioning material is provided in the kit for the gap. You'll have trouble with the hood fit and specifically the hinges if the gap isn't maintained. Among other things. Try mounting the body front using the holes provided. Don't make new ones. You'll probably need to reposition the radiator aluminum.
    I did install the cushioning material. With it being a foam padding, it did flatten out (at the front end) most of the way under the weight of the body. Body not touching except at the front. The manual also says after installing the hood, "Use 1/8” long rivets to attach the bumpers through the body and into the frame". I'm thinking that would also pull the body down (compressing the foam cushion more).

    I'll try lifting the front and installing the bolts thru the existing holes. This is going to lift the body approx 3/4" in the front. More to follow....
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-29-2023 at 10:05 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  7. #127
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Front Bumper Holes - Body Alignment

    I installed the front bumper bolts, adding a piece of rubber to center the bolt to the hole. I now have a 5/16" gap above the cushioning material on the 3/4" rails (both sides). This gap is the entire length of the hood. (Same on both ends). I inserted a wrench in the pic to highlight the gap (hard to see otherwise). I did set the hood on and it lined up with the body really well. Next question, what to use to shim the gap on the rails? Otherwise, when the rubber around the bolt is removed, the body will drop till it hits the bolts. I did not receive bumper bolt grommets with the bumpers (FFR) and I'm doubting if I had, it would be as stiff as the rubber I have in there now.

    Also: When I add the hood rubber bumpers, do I rivet to the body only, to keep from pulling the body down?

    Bodywork - PS Bumper bolts with Rubber.jpg Bodywork - PS Gap.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-19-2017 at 09:51 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  8. #128
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    I did install the cushioning material. With it being a foam padding, it did flatten out (at the front end) most of the way under the weight of the body. Body not touching except at the front. The manual also says after installing the hood, "Use 1/8” long rivets to attach the bumpers through the body and into the frame". I'm thinking that would also pull the body down (compressing the foam cushion more).

    I'll try lifting the front and installing the bolts thru the existing holes. This is going to lift the body approx an inch in the front. More to follow....
    The foam they provide is pretty soft. It won't hold the weight of the body. With the front attached at the quick jacks, the hood will hover above and the intention of the foam is just to fill the opening. Not hold it up. I switched to a higher density foam because I thought it looked better. But it's not necessary. It's also not necessary or IMO desirable to attach the body to the hood tubes. Most don't. If your hood is 1-inch above the 3/4-inch tubes with the body at the quick jack locations, something else isn't right. You do have the bulb seal on the firewall? How is alignment everywhere else?
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-19-2017 at 09:53 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #129
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    The foam they provide is pretty soft....... You do have the bulb seal on the firewall? How is alignment everywhere else?
    The bulb seal is everywhere it's intended to be. The rear bumper bolts lined up perfectly. The bulb is somewhat flattened at the firewall. The underside of the body is touching the bottom of the frame on both sides, no gap at all.

    If your body is above the frame rail, what is supporting it? Do you have rubber on the bumper bolts, or did you shim somewhere to support it?
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-19-2017 at 10:20 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  10. #130
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    The bulb seal is everywhere it's intended to be. The rear bumper bolts lined up perfectly. The bulb is somewhat flattened at the firewall. The underside of the body is touching the bottom of the frame on both sides, no gap at all.

    If your body is above the frame rail, what is supporting it? Do you have rubber on the bumper bolts, or did you shim somewhere to support it?
    Sounds like you have the body where it needs to be. I don't know what else to say other than it's not supposed to touch the hood 3/4-inch tubes and there are several ways the nose is held up. Quick jacks bolts, radiator surround, wheel well liners, the bracket from the Q-J bolts to the running light area (relatively new) all work together. Even the hood attached to the frame mounted hinges with bumpers or cushion around the body opening contributes to holding everything in place. It ends up being quite solid. I personally like to use ********** grommets in the front Q-J mount holes. But lots are built without them.

    For the record, what I've have been citing isn't just my opinion or how my builds have turned out. This is discussed quite a bit. Here's at least one thread on the other forum that has much of what I described from several well known builders: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...ems-wrong.html
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-20-2017 at 09:17 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  11. #131
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    ......For the record, what I've have been citing isn't just my opinion or how my builds have turned out. This is discussed quite a bit. Here's at least one thread on the other forum that has much of what I described from several well known builders: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...ems-wrong.html
    Thanks for sharing the suggestions (experience) and link.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-20-2017 at 11:58 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  12. #132
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Bodywork - Doors trimmed to fit

    The doors are now attached and trimmed. The PS door has a big gap, approx 5/16" on the bottom front radius. This pic is before I finished the rest of the gap. I aligned the top and moved it forward as much as possible... didn't trim the radius area at all. Delivered this way from FFR. Guess I'll be adding a little filler. I'll start on the hood, and the trunk if time permits tomorrow. Still need to radius the corners, attach to the bottom of the frame and fit the elephant ears. Side pipe opening need enlarged too.

    Bodywork - Doors trimmed to fit.jpg Bodywork - PS Door Top Alignment.jpg Bodywork - PS Door Gap from FFR.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-20-2017 at 09:55 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  13. #133

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    I installed the front bumper bolts, adding a piece of rubber to center the bolt to the hole. I now have a 5/16" gap above the cushioning material on the 3/4" rails (both sides). This gap is the entire length of the hood. (Same on both ends). I inserted a wrench in the pic to highlight the gap (hard to see otherwise). I did set the hood on and it lined up with the body really well. Next question, what to use to shim the gap on the rails? Otherwise, when the rubber around the bolt is removed, the body will drop till it hits the bolts. I did not receive bumper bolt grommets with the bumpers (FFR) and I'm doubting if I had, it would be as stiff as the rubber I have in there now.

    Also: When I add the hood rubber bumpers, do I rivet to the body only, to keep from pulling the body down?

    Bodywork - PS Bumper bolts with Rubber.jpg Bodywork - PS Gap.jpg
    I had the same issue because I thought that the body should sit on 3/4" frame tubes instead of hoving over them.
    When I installed the support brackets that attach to the parking lights, my body flexes up, opens up the front fender wells a bit and improves the jack bolt alignment.
    I also purchased a thicker/denser foam that EdwardB told me about which supported the body better and filled the gap quite nicely when we did the last test fit.
    Finally, I may add 3/4" spacer tubes to the frame on the sides of the hood brackets, but I'm still on the fence about doing that.

  14. #134
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    What foam did you purchase go Daddy go???

  15. #135
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Body work - Front body support

    I added a temporary 3/4" wood shim (5" long) under the body, approx in line with the shocks. The bumper bolts are now approx centered in the body holes. I'd like to find a really dense foam ( or.....) to support the body. The gap tapers smaller by a little bit as you go toward the firewall. I can't see hanging the body on the bumper bolts, too much stress on the fiberglass body and the small park light bolts. If someone leaned on the top of the body near the wheel wells, excess stress .....

    I also fit the doors and trunk. The hood is on but not trimmed yet. Body is attached to the underside of the chassis. Still need to install the elephant ears and radius the corners on all.

    Realized I need to do four corner balance now. The frame is not level (parallel) to the floor. Need to adjust before making sure the engine is leveled and side pipe cutouts are adjusted.

    Bodywork - PS Bumper bolt clearance.jpg Bodywork - DS Bumper bolt clearance.jpg Bodywork - Still need to fit hood.jpg

    EDITED: I ended up purchasing 3/4" x 1" PVC (from Home Depot, intended to be used for window trim on houses). Ran it the length of the hood. Had to cut a slight taper to fill the gap without lifting the body. Didn't want someone to lean on the body and damage/crack it.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-29-2023 at 10:26 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  16. #136
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    She's looking good! You must be pretty stoked to be this close to paint.

    I don't recall reading about your paint color choices. Would you consider sharing?

    Congrats on getting close to the finish line, and for sharing all the build details. I am excited for you!

    Regards,

    Steve

  17. #137
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    She's looking good! You must be pretty stoked to be this close to paint. I don't recall reading about your paint color choices. Would you consider sharing?
    Congrats on getting close to the finish line, and for sharing all the build details. I am excited for you!
    Regards,
    Steve
    Steve,
    I'm painting it blue with white stripes (my wife's choice). I posted the pic on FB, the one with the doors and trunk/hood on and said I'm painting it blue/white and a (smart ***) friend suggested that I might be color blind, and "that's pretty funny looking racing stripes". You can ALWAYS count on your friends! haha

    I'm still a few weeks before primer. I'm thinking I'll primer it, then have the GA safety inspection done and apply for a title while finish painting.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-23-2017 at 03:04 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  18. #138

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    I added a temporary 3/4" wood shim (5" long) under the body, approx in line with the shocks. The bumper bolts are now approx centered in the body holes. I'd like to find a really dense foam ( or.....) to support the body. The gap tapers smaller by a little bit as you go toward the firewall. I can't see hanging the body on the bumper bolts, too much stress on the fiberglass body and the small park light bolts. If someone leaned on the top of the body near the wheel wells, excess stress .....

    I also fit the doors and trunk. The hood is on but not trimmed yet. Body is attached to the underside of the chassis. Still need to install the elephant ears and radius the corners on all.

    Realized I need to do four corner balance now. The frame is not level (parallel) to the floor. Need to adjust before making sure the engine is leveled and side pipe cutouts are adjusted.

    Bodywork - PS Bumper bolt clearance.jpg Bodywork - DS Bumper bolt clearance.jpg Bodywork - Still need to fit hood.jpg
    I got it from McMaster, but don't recall the part number.
    EdwardB would know because he remembers everything.

  19. #139
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    I got it from McMaster, but don't recall the part number.
    EdwardB would know because he remembers everything.
    I can't remember all that stuff but my Excel spreadsheet does. McMaster part number 8512K96 is what I've used on two builds.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  20. #140
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Wiper Motor - Wiring Electrical Plug

    For those of us installing wipers, here's the wiring electrical plug for the motor. ********** sells it for $15.
    http://www.**********accessories.com...ical-plug.aspx

    Wiper Plug.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  21. #141
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Side Pipe Cutout - Clearance

    OK, after three weeks of being sick (with pneumonia), I'm back to work. The trunk and doors are fit. Roll bars are in. Today's project...fit the hood, and ......

    I did trim the body for the side pipes, but have a question. How much clearance did you allow between the body and pipes? I presently have approx 3/8". Not sure that's enough.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  22. #142
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Bodywork - Slow progress

    Finished fitting the trunk, installing license plate bracket and latch and adjusting gaps. Installed the bulb seal to confirm correct gaps. (no pics ) Hood latches installed. I decided to not break off the small bottom tabs (only ground down to fiberglass thickness) on the latches, to give the the latch mount more twisting strength during opening/closing. Slotted the hood and mounted the brackets (screws) sideways to accept the tabs, instead of front to back as shown in the manual. Added small tapped plates under the top fiberglass layer to attach. Also added small holes to allow the Evercoat filler to seep in, hoping to add a little strength in the attachment. Drilled the latch bracket holes open to install 10-24 screws. Now ready to radius and install the alum latch brackets. Need to complete latches before final fit of the hood. The latches will help pull the hood corners down, allowing me to achieve hood gaps.

    Wipers mounted, tubes cut and flared, and drive wire cut to length. Again, no pics. Also added body filler to top of door seams. Still need to finish.

    Ready to go on vacation. Not much happening lately!

    Bodywork - Hood Latches.jpg Bodywork - Hood Latches Bolts.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 07-22-2017 at 11:24 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  23. #143
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Hood without the scoop - Any issues???

    After seeing Duke's Graduation pics, I like the look of the hood without the scoop (and without the stripes). Has there been any research on airflow/engine temperatures under the hood without the scoop? I'm thinking I like the looks and now leaning towards leaving it off.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 07-24-2017 at 09:21 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  24. #144

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    After seeing Duke's Graduation pics, I like the look of the hood without the scoop (and without the stripes). Has there been any research on airflow/engine temperatures under the hood without the scoop? I'm thinking I like the looks and now leaning towards leaving it off.
    Without a block off panel above the radiator the under hood air flow should not be an issue.
    Since you are running a Coyote V/8 hood clearance should be fantastic too.
    Shown below is a great example of another smooth hooded Cobra:

    CSX-3178
    https://youtu.be/FJpASOjJWa8
    https://youtu.be/imF-_t6UixU

    PS: It is also my motivation, minus the J-Style roll bar.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 07-24-2017 at 09:30 PM.

  25. #145
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve. Glad I asked. Never thought about leaving out the block off panel. I do have a fan shroud, should be able to pull plenty of air thru, so shouldn't have an over-heat issue. Thanks for the videos. I do like the look with no scoop.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 07-24-2017 at 11:26 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
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  26. #146
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Can't speak for the airflow without the scoop but I can tell you I've been driving my Coyote all summer in Alabama. Usual drives are 30-60 minutes and my temp never exceeds 85 C on the gauge. Generally runs 70-80. The Coyote seems to run pretty cool. As Edwardb has documented the fan runs almost the entire time. I wouldn't think you would have any problem either.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  27. #147
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    No scoop=no problem.

    As an aside, a couple of years ago I did a roadster with no scoop, no side louvers, no sidepipes and no stripes. I got all done and almost felt like I cheated

    Jeff

  28. #148
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Doors, Truck & Hood fit. Windshield on.... Ready to prime and block sand

    Back from vacation and making some progress. Windshield fit. Ready to remove doors and radii the edges. Hood and trunk finished. Next step, prime and block sand.

    Bodywork - Windshield On -2.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-29-2023 at 10:18 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  29. #149
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Ran out of boxes of parts

    Down to the last box of parts.... Sun visors and wind screens. Finished fitting the doors, trunk/hood, windshield, lights, side louvers, etc... before prepping for paint. Now ready to disassemble and start block sanding.

    Bodywork - Ready to finish Bodywork.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-29-2023 at 10:28 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  30. #150
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Brakes

    I think I'll go ahead and title the car and drive a little to check out everything before painting. I used the FFR complete kit supplied front Mustang cobra calipers and Mustang cobra rear calipers and the Willwood manual dual master cylinders. Not happen with the stopping power. Debating the hydro-boost or a vacuum boost. Anyone use either of these?
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
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  31. #151
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Licensed - Still need paint and carpet installed

    I am now licensed and ready to put a few (lots, haha) miles on it. Waiting a month or so to paint. Also waiting to install carpet until I'm finished painting.


    Bodywork - Front View.jpg Bodywork - Rear View.jpg Bodywork - Licensed.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 09-01-2017 at 05:43 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  32. #152
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Drive that thing!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  33. #153
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    I notice your gwinnett tag. Did that pass emissions?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  34. #154
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    I notice your gwinnett tag. Did that pass emissions?
    Scott,
    Don't have to for the fist two years. I also own property in Walton county where emissions is not required.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
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  35. #155
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  36. #156
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Power Brake Set-up

    So, after putting a few miles on the MK IV, I've decided to add power brakes. Currently running the Wilwood dual master cylinders, Mustang Cobra dual piston front calipers (standard FFR parts) and single piston rear. I looked into a couple of vendor options and realized how much they charge vs. what the parts cost, with a few minor modifications. I chose to buy the parts and make my own. Here's a list of parts and modifications, with pics.

    Vacuum Booster - 1990 Mustang Vacuum Booster - No modifications, just adjustments to actuator shaft (to as short as possible). Autozone P/N 54-73207
    Master Cylinder - 2000 Nissan Quest Master Cylinder (requires remote reservoirs) - Opened up the bolt holes to 3/8" (plus a little clearance), AND slotted the holes outward approx .060" on each side. Autozone P/N M4053
    Master cylinder has 1/2" fluid (supply) lines - Adapters will be required to attach to reservoirs.
    The Ford brake pedal will have to be modified to accept the booster actuator shaft.
    NOTE: Ended up making a steel brake pedal. The aluminum Wilwood pedal web is too thin to hold up in the long run. See post #194
    Spacer between the booster and master cylinder.
    The pics show the shaft screw turned all the way in (shaft is as short as possible). Without the spacer, there is a gap between the booster and master cylinder (approx .225"). The spacer is 1/4" thk.

    With the Wllwood master cylinders, 6 piston front and 4 piston rear, I'm sure the brakes would be ample. I didn't buy those calipers.

    I originally planned to add a hydro-boost if I didn't like the manual brakes, so I made all the modifications early on. That includes mounting holes thru the foot box wall, enlarging the hole to allow clearance for the rubber boot on the booster, and made the brake pedal. I now decided vacuum would be easier to install/maintain than hydraulic.

    This modification (less manhours of course) cost approx $150, assuming you already have/need to buy remote reservoirs.

    Booster Plumger.jpg Master Cylinder.jpg Master Cylinder - Slotted Holes.jpg Master Cylinder - Spacer.jpg Master Cylinder Booster Assy without Spacer.jpg Master Cylinder Booster Assy With Spacer.jpg

    Edited 9/14/17
    Additional items needed. Line adapter needed, QTY-2. 10M X 1.0 (Inverted Male end) to 3/8-24 (Inverted Female end). Autozone P/N BLF-29C $2.99 each.
    The master cylinder is metric and the FFR lines are SAE
    Also: I found out after the fact - The FFR kit came with QTY-3 spacers 3/16" thick (threw them in the "Not Needed" box). I needed 1/4", but could have used two from the kit.

    Edited 2/17/18: Ended up NOT using the Line Adapters. I purchased a short metric brake line, cut the ends off, cut the SAE (non metric line) end off, added the metric fitting and re-flared the end. I didn't like how loose/sloppy the adapter threads were to the master cylinder and the fitting design (relief on the end), only inserted 3.5 turns. The metric ends had a better thread fit and inserted 5 turns.

    See All Posts: #180, 184, 194 for complete set-up
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-28-2019 at 02:15 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  37. #157
    Senior Member Paul2STL's Avatar
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    David,
    Nice job collecting all the parts needed, way cheaper than buying that as a kit. One question are you going to space the booster off the wall so you can get a good stroke from your modified pedal? I am assuming you are going to do the frame mod your self to get the booster to fit. Hopefully this setup will work for you. Would like to see a pic of the pedal you modified. By the way still waiting on my pedal, called and left a message still don't know when Ill get it, 3 1/2 months and waiting.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

  38. #158
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul2STL View Post
    David,
    Nice job collecting all the parts needed, way cheaper than buying that as a kit. One question are you going to space the booster off the wall so you can get a good stroke from your modified pedal? I am assuming you are going to do the frame mod your self to get the booster to fit. Hopefully this setup will work for you. Would like to see a pic of the pedal you modified. By the way still waiting on my pedal, called and left a message still don't know when Ill get it, 3 1/2 months and waiting.
    Paul, Finding the correct parts wasn't too hard. I'll do it myself and make the work-around frame insert. I have access to a fab shop whenever I need something made.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-04-2023 at 11:28 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  39. #159
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Paul, Finding the correct parts wasn't too hard. If I read the advertisement for the kit correctly, the spacers are only needed on the MK 3 to clear the steering. I don't think I need to cut the frame, according to my measurements (and the vendor pics) but if I do need to, I'll do it myself and make the work-around frame insert. I have access to a fab shop whenever I need something made.

    I know you purchased the kit. Do the instructions say to cut the frame?
    If you're speaking about the Whitby vacuum power brake kit, yes the instructions say to cut the frame and the kit includes a piece to replace the cut out section. These pictures are of the installation in my Mk3 build. This was a Mustang pedal box, so perhaps the location is slightly different than using the Wilwood pedal box. But I suspect that frame rail will interfere with your booster as well. As I side note, these pictures also show how different the footbox in the Mk3 was compared to the current Mk4. But the offending frame rail appears to be in the same location.



    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  40. #160
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul2STL View Post
    David,
    Nice job collecting all the parts needed, way cheaper than buying that as a kit. One question are you going to space the booster off the wall so you can get a good stroke from your modified pedal? I am assuming you are going to do the frame mod your self to get the booster to fit. Hopefully this setup will work for you. Would like to see a pic of the pedal you modified. By the way still waiting on my pedal, called and left a message still don't know when Ill get it, 3 1/2 months and waiting.
    Paul,
    Not sure if I need to modify the frame rail yet. I know FFR modified the frame in July 2016. Prior to that, some people had to notch the clutch pedal or modify the frame rail if they used the Wilwood pedal box. I did neither, it fit as is. The rail is a little further outboard from the previous frame version. I've measured for the booster fit and it looks like it will be close to fitting as is. I think I'll need to use the booster spacers, but haven't tried it yet. Can't take a pic of the pedal mod, it's in the car. I plan to take the body off in early October to paint, and will install the brakes then.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

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