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Thread: Ducky2009 MK4 Build #9035

  1. #41
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    Everything looks great! I really like how the glove box turned out. Moving the heater box out from the firewall, and keeping the glove box deeper at the bottom really makes quite a difference.

    Before you drop the engine back in, you need to grab yourself some grease and a couple of shoe horns! WOW is it close in there! You Coyote guys have a chore.

    I have enjoyed following along, and admire the speed of your build. Mine is a bit more deliberate!

    Keep up the good work!

    Regards,

    Steve

  2. #42
    Thanks Steve. I removed the heater box extension and heater when installing the engine. Speed of build..... I'm retired so I have lots of free time and I've done builds before (but not from kits), thought it's been awhile.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  3. #43

    Trans Shim and Driveshaft Angle

    I've seen several posts about a trans shim being added. The shim "looked" fairly thick. I added 1/4" to mine so that the driveshaft would clear the frame tube. Not sure why the difference in thickness. I did place the trans mount above the frame mount. Guess that's the engineer coming out in me. Why have the bolts carry the load when the mount can sit on top of the frame and carry the load. I'm I missing something... Why the shim should be thicker? ALSO: Is your driveshaft running on an angle like mine?
    Trans Shim.jpgDriveshaft Angle.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  4. #44
    I used a 3/4" shim with coyote/tko-600/irs. My shim was more to make the driveshaft sit level than it was for clearance of the frame tube. What type engine mounts did you use? That may account for some differences versus what I did. I used the newer FFR coyote mounts with the integrated spacers sandwiched in there. They came out late last summer. I would assume that is what came with your kit.

    Here is a picture of my shims installed. Did we mount them in the same location? Mine is between the transmission and the mount. Is yours between the mount and the frame?


    I am having a hard time seeing the angle you are asking about. Visually it is tough with the angled cross braces and it looks like the picture is at a little bit of an angle. I will say the transmission definitely sits towards the passenger side of the tunnel on mine if that is what you are asking. The transmission biased towards the passenger side of the tunnel is normal and expected.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 04-19-2017 at 10:30 AM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  5. #45

    Drive Shaft Alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    I used a 3/4" shim with coyote/tko-600/irs. My shim was more to make the driveshaft sit level than it was for clearance of the frame tube. What type engine mounts did you use? That may account for some differences versus what I did. I used the newer FFR coyote mounts with the integrated spacers sandwiched in there. They came out late last summer. I would assume that is what came with your kit.

    Here are some better pics and definition. I did not shim between the trans mount and trans. I shimmed under the A-Frame mount. NOTE: The A-Frame mount is sitting on top of the frame tab, not under. I added a 1/4" shim on top of the frame tab, under the A-Frame mount, see pic. Without the shim, the drive shaft was touching the 4" frame rail when rotated.
    I'm using a solid rear axle. The upper arm rear end mount is adjusted to "try" to align the pinion angle to the drive shaft. It's close but not completely aligned. Under load (accelerating), the rear end will rotate, making this angle closer to a straight line. I've rotated the pinion up as far as I could (still not completely aligned). I have approx 1/4" before the upper mount touches the Panhard bar.
    The rear end is aligned (centered) with the front end. The drive shaft is presently running low at rear end, higher at the trans end by approx 1/2" It also runs sideways, centered at rear end and more to the passenger side at the trans end. Looks like everyone has this issue. Not sure if it's a manufacturing flaw or by design. If by design, I'd like to understand why.

    Trans Shim with definition.jpgPanhard Bar and Axle Upper Link.jpgPinion Angle.jpgDrive Shaft Side Angle.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-19-2017 at 09:29 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  6. #46

    Leather for Dash

    I found leather for the dash. After reading a few posts and searching the web for leather, I found out the Tandy leather store is about 30 minutes from my house. Ended up buying 3 oz leather, 1/2 hide for $99 (military discount applied). If you want to look it up, it's called Studio Sides on their site. They had thinner and thicker. The thinner was way to thin. The thicker was defined as to make motorcycle chaps... way too heavy. The tape measures cross at 6 feet and 20".

    Leather for Dash.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-19-2017 at 09:28 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  7. #47
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Here are some better pics and definition. I did not shim between the trans mount and trans. I shimmed under the A-Frame mount. NOTE: The A-Frame mount is sitting on top of the frame tab, not under. I added a 1/4" shim on top of the frame tab, under the A-Frame mount, see pic. Without the shim, the drive shaft was touching the 4" frame rail when rotated.
    I'm using a solid rear axle. The upper arm rear end mount is adjusted to "try" to align the pinion angle to the drive shaft. It's close but not completely aligned. Under load (accelerating), the rear end will rotate, making this angle closer to a straight line. I've rotated the pinion up as far as I could (still not completely aligned). I have approx 1/4" before the upper mount touches the Panhard bar.
    The rear end is aligned (centered) with the front end. The drive shaft is presently running low at rear end, higher at the trans end by approx 1/2" It also runs sideways, centered at rear end and more to the passenger side at the trans end. Looks like everyone has this issue. Not sure if it's a manufacturing flaw or by design. If by design, I'd like to understand why.

    Trans Shim with definition.jpgPanhard Bar and Axle Upper Link.jpgPinion Angle.jpgDrive Shaft Side Angle.jpg
    Ducky2009,

    If you have the upper link as far back as you can get it and still have issues with pinion angle and/or the possibility of the upper link contacting the panhard bar brace, then you can get away with shortening your lower control arms which will pull the pinion up and allow you to draw in the upper link so that it clears the brace. The stock lowers are 17 5/8" so I had a shorter pair made that are 17" to make things line up and clear. In addition, please understand that my issue was caused by the fact that I installed my driveline at ZERO degrees so I had to tilt the pinion angle up a good bit to get it in phase with the engine and transmission.

    Spohn Performance made a new set for me and they also offer an adjustable set for Factory Five Cars as well.

    http://www.spohn.net/shop/Factory-Fi...ot-Joints.html

    My actual wheelbase is now 89.5" and I am able to clear my rear tires at full offset or tilt with no problems with clearance; however, I am running 285-40/17's on the rear and not the normal 315-35/17's.

    https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

    Also, please know that the pinion is not in allignment with the drive line when looking at it from above. It is offset so that it cycles the needle bearings of the U-Joints; however, you do need to make sure that you are in phase.

    https://youtu.be/gmV4qwLfOMY

    Hope this information helps and remember that your U-Joints must be in phase in order to avoid vibrations and premature drive line failures.

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-19-2017 at 10:39 PM.

  8. #48


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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    ... If by design, I'd like to understand why.
    Two fold. If a driveline doesn't have a couple degrees of angle the u-joint's needle bearings will not rotate and will fail. In the case of our cars I've heard a few different reasons as to why the engine is slightly offset to the passenger side; the ones that seem to most often be repeated are that it is to compensate for the driver's weight &/or provide a bit more footbox room on the driver's side.

    Jeff

  9. #49
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Two fold. If a driveline doesn't have a couple degrees of angle the u-joint's needle bearings will not rotate and will fail. In the case of our cars I've heard a few different reasons as to why the engine is slightly offset to the passenger side; the ones that seem to most often be repeated are that it is to compensate for the driver's weight &/or provide a bit more footbox room on the driver's side.

    Jeff
    Agreed. The offset driveline is completely by design. In addition to the reasons cited by Jeff (not too handy for our RH drive friends...) I've also read this is due to the differential/axle design. Ideally, the two axles should be nearly the same length. With the ring gear in the center, the pinion and driveshaft flange must be offset.
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  10. #50
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Jeff Kleiner & EdwardB are my go to guys for many of my 1st time builder questions.

    Any advice these fellows give you in my opinion is always Expert Advice!

  11. #51
    Steve, Thanks for sharing the links. I've watched the phasing video before, but that was the last think on my mind as I was looking at this issue. After reviewing the situation I decided to rotated the axle upper link (1/4
    ") on the axle. This created a gap between the third member and the support arm on the upper link. I added a 1" spacer to fill the gap. Still need to align the pinion.

    Rotated Axle Upper Link.jpgRear End Rotation Shim.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-21-2017 at 10:36 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  12. #52
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Steve, Thanks for sharing the links. I've watched the phasing video before, but that was the last think on my mind as I was looking at this issue. After reviewing the situation I decided to rotated the axle upper link (1/4
    ") on the axle. This created a gap between the third member and the support arm on the upper link. I added a 1" spacer to fill the gap. Still need to align the pinion.

    Rotated Axle Upper Link.jpgRear End Rotation Shim.jpg
    Glad I Could Help & It Looks Like You Are On Your Way To A Perfect Pinion Alignment!

    Also, on my rear end the upper link is welded in place (MOSER TSD-500) so I was not able to rotate it the upper bracket.
    It really had me frustrated because I was pitched down 3-Degrees with the upper link all the way out causing it to hit the Panhard Bar Brace.
    Since my drive line is set at ZERO Degrees (Horizontal With The Frame) I had to figure out Plan-B, which was to shorten the lowers.

    Keep Plugging Away & You'll Get There!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-22-2017 at 02:52 PM.

  13. #53
    Steve, I plan to weld a bracket to the rear end and bolt to the upper link. Still looking for the best placement.

    I've thought about the trans shim you used (Paul's design) and realized mine works, BUT, if someone else works on this and doesn't notice where it goes, it might get left out and create a problem. Bolting it under the mount eliminates this possibility.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  14. #54

    Pinion Angle

    Steve, Paul, ALL - How much pre-load do you have on your pinion? How many degrees do you think the pinion will rotate up during load ("Normal" driving)? I set the pinion 2 degrees less than parallel plane to the drive line (trans). Not sure what is suggested.
    Thanks
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  15. #55

    Power Steering Line Issues

    Power steering lines didn't line up as delivered. Called FF and was told to install lines then bend them as needed. FF said lines are for many various cars and I needed to "make them fit my application". Lines were pointing toward the radiator (thus - too short to reach the PS pump) instead of towards the PS/power steering pump, 90 degrees off. Lines were fairly easy to bend. I was concerned about possibly kinking at the existing bends but had no problems. ALSO, the line fittings had play in them after installation. It appears (I hope) that there is an O-Ring seal in the joint. After tightening, you can wiggle the lines in and out, and rotate a little. I'll know more when I fill the reservoir and fire up the engine (pump pressure).

    PS Lines - Wrong Bends.jpg PS Lines Pointing Forward.jpg PS Lines Assembled.jpg PS Lines - Finished.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-26-2017 at 08:36 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  16. #56
    Had the same problem. Worked with Mark at Breeze and he developed a line kit that includes braided lines and fittings to replace the two lines that come with the FFR coyote kit but still uses the rest of the components. It's in my build thread if you are interested. I was much happier with the end result.

    http://www.breezeautomotive.com/deta...p?prod_id=1142
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 04-25-2017 at 06:26 AM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  17. #57


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    Ducky,
    I set the pinion 2 degrees down in relation to the transmission output.

    RE: Power steering lines; Wareaglescott asked me the same question when he was doing his. Here is my reply:

    " Functionally I would expect that it will be fine. Aesthetically not so much. I think you feel the same way. You could give a try at bending the hard lines---it will take a good bender to do it without kinking. Chances are it won't work out so good... I've built a few power steering cars (my own included) and always use fittings and braided teflon hose available from Breeze. You'll be able to make the lengths you need and keep the routing neat and tidy Here's a shot of one that I did on a customer build with a Windsor and Fox pump.



    The "O" ring to AN fittings will work for your rack:

    http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=646

    I looked up some info on the late Ford pump and found that the pressure side is M16X1.5. If memory serves I am 98% sure that the size and threads of the 5/8"-18 fitting mentioned (Breeze #21514) are so close to identical that it can be used for the pump. I'd give Mark at Breeze a call to verify. If you opt to go this route the hose and fittings that he offers are good quality, easy to assemble and priced extremely well:

    http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=814

    http://www.breezeautomotive.com/deta...p?prod_id=1123

    http://www.breezeautomotive.com/deta...p?prod_id=1125

    Hope that helps."

    Good luck and keep us posted on how everything works out!

    Jeff

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Steve, Paul, ALL - How much pre-load do you have on your pinion? How many degrees do you think the pinion will rotate up during load ("Normal" driving)? I set the pinion 2 degrees less than parallel plane to the drive line (trans). Not sure what is suggested.
    Thanks
    Like any forum, you need to be careful with what people are telling you. There are some posts and build threads out there that go into elaborate detail including talks about engine alignment, engine level, and pinion angle. The best thing is to follow the recommendations from FFR. As outlined in the build manual, and re-iterated by Jeff, set the pinion angle at 2 degrees down.

  19. #59
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    I am between 1 & 2 degrees as well on the pinion angle.

  20. #60
    Dave, Steve, I read the manual... It says 2 degrees UP (page 80). ??? It doesn't define a relationship to the trans angle. I'm 2 degrees down from the trans centerline, so under load it will rise, thus aligning to approx 0 degrees. Is that how you understand it?
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  21. #61
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Dave, Steve, I read the manual... It says 2 degrees UP (page 80). ??? It doesn't define a relationship to the trans angle. I'm 2 degrees down from the trans centerline, so under load it will rise, thus aligning to approx 0 degrees. Is that how you understand it?
    That is how I've got mine set where it should ZERO out the angle under acceleration.

  22. #62

    New radiator design - Lower Rad Hose Outlet Changed Angles

    Weekly Update: Installed the radiator today. Followed Edwardb's post and purchased the same hoses, etc... Turns out the radiator is different. The lower hose connection is now parallel to the floor (when installed). Old design was perpendicular to the radiator body, thus "was" pointing downward on the lower outlet. I still used the 90 degree SS 1.5" tube and hoses, just installed differently. Not as aesthetically pleasing to the eye but functional. Not many choices with the Rad outlet so close to the frame and as high as it is. Used the center section of the lower hose (as marked). Also used the stock Mustang lower hose (that came with the controls pack), to attach to the engine. Would liked to have used more of the hose and less of the 1.5" SS pipe but the hose twisted the wrong way to use more. Note: The lower hose was left too long (the hose has 2" extra where clamped) on purpose, until I determine the position of the lower end of the Rad. Also looks like I need to straighten out the cut on the engine end.

    Lower Rad Hose - Engine Connection - Top View.jpg Lower Rad Hose - Engine Connection.jpg Lower Rad Hose - 90 degree connection - View from front.jpg Lower Rad Hose - Front Hose Installed - Side View.jpg Lower Rad Hose - Front - Alignment.jpg Lower Rad Hose - Rad Connection.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-26-2017 at 08:39 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  23. #63
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Weekly Update: Installed the radiator today. Followed Edwardb's post and purchased the same hoses, etc... Turns out the radiator is different.
    Sorry about that. My build used an Afco Racing radiator. The type Factory Five used for a number of years. Not too long after I bought my kit, they went to a different brand radiator with several design changes. I haven't seen the new one in person. Only pictures. But clearly the angles of the hose connections are different. Sounds you got it worked out.
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  24. #64

    Breeze Radiator Shroud

    No problem Edwardb. FFR changes suppliers or design, can't help that.

    Good news is the Breeze shroud did fit. I called Breeze before ordering because the web site said it fits up to 2015. We discussed and they are reviewing the measurements to evaluate the situation and update their page. Didn't take a pic before installing. NOTE: The flange is close but room to drill and install nylon-lock nuts.

    Shroud - Top.jpg Shroud - Bottom.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-27-2017 at 09:32 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  25. #65

    FFR Radiator Fan Wiring Plug

    Question: Has anyone found the mating plug for the FFR radiator fan wiring? I'd like to have a plug-in connection instead of a crimped-on female connector that could come loose. Not likely but...

    Radiator Fan Plug.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  26. #66
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Question: Has anyone found the mating plug for the FFR radiator fan wiring? I'd like to have a plug-in connection instead of a crimped-on female connector that could come loose. Not likely but...

    Radiator Fan Plug.jpg
    If you find one, then please let me know because I'd like one too.

  27. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Question: Has anyone found the mating plug for the FFR radiator fan wiring? I'd like to have a plug-in connection instead of a crimped-on female connector that could come loose. Not likely but...

    Radiator Fan Plug.jpg
    I just cut the plug off and wired in a weatherpack connector.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  28. #68
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Good Suggestion War Eagle!

  29. #69
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    I just cut the plug off and wired in a weatherpack connector.
    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Good Suggestion War Eagle!
    X2. Weatherpack is perfect there. I think that's an old school Packard type connector. But I wouldn't mess with it.
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  30. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Good Suggestion War Eagle!
    Thanks Steve and of course I got the idea from Paul! ^^^^
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  31. #71
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Thanks Steve and of course I got the idea from Paul! ^^^^
    Don't you mean:

    Obi-Wan Kenobi

  32. #72

    Dash shape on the ends.

    Thanks all for the connector advise. I ordered the Weatherpack plug. I'm on vacation but wanted to catch up while I have a little down time.
    Next question: I've been trying to review the dash shape on the ends. I see the shape in several posts but no real definition of how to achieve it. The best view is on FFR glove box dash. It shows a large (maybe 3-4" radius) then a flat to the end. Any suggestions please!
    I'm also trying to order the dash padding. I hate to pay $15 for something and $20 shipping. Any suggestions on local stores that carry it. 1/8" Volara foam padding.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  33. #73
    Weekly update. I've been on vacation and not much progress in the last week. Won't be much progress for a few days. Ended up with food poising on Sunday thanks to a nice little Mexican restaurant in WI. I did order the dash padding. Had planned on making the glove box door this week and installing the hardware. Not sure how much is going to happen this week.

    I did receive my RT turn signals and in-process of acquiring relays and harnesses. Found all by one part. Where can I find a VW Relay 111-941-583 "harness/plug". The relay itself is ordered, along with everything else.

    Thanks to Jdav, I'll be able to take a close look at his glove box dash and check out the outer ends. Not sure why the formed (glove box dash) had shaped ends (a radius and then a flat) vs the manual saying Push the ends of the dash behind the top of the door hinge and screw through the hinge into the dash end. Maybe a bad description but the same result. See attached pic. I'm assuming that this is the mounting hole. I'm wondering how close the dash ends up to the body when completed. Can someone take a pic looking forward with the door open, showing how it meets the body, or is there a gap?

    Dash Mount Holes.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-03-2017 at 01:06 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
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  34. #74
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The molded dash from FF does have a return on the end that can be attached to the cockpit side of the firewall. But I wouldn't worry about that. For the aluminum dash, most of us just bend in the radius, tuck it behind the hinge, and let it float. There's really no reason to attach it. It's not going anywhere. You will need to trim the end of the PS so that it goes far enough in and under the body. It's important for your body and door fitment that the upper part of your dash doesn't interfere with or push against the underside of the body, especially at the dash ends. That's yet another reason why it's important to have the dash in the right location, and also to leave the ends flexible. A picture of the underside of the body and dash fitment wouldn't be too easy to take. FWIW, here's one of my last build with the ends bent and tucked behind the hinges. That's the best I could find.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  35. #75
    Thanks Edwardb. I formed the dash ends as suggested. I also added a center tray approx 12" wide in the center (bottom of dash, forward to frame) to mount the relays, etc... Waiting on ordered relays to arrive. Still need a harness plug for the VW relay (#111 941 583). Can't seem to find one. Waiting on padding too so I can work on finishing the dash. Dash to frame mounts installed 4 places. RT turn signal mount now installed. Mounted the heater, hopefully for the last time. Now I need to fab the mounting bracket for the 4-way valve.

    Dash Mount.jpg 4-Way Heater Valve.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-04-2017 at 07:06 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  36. #76
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The VW relay 111 941 583 looks like it's a normal 5-terminal relay. I had one in my Mk3 and that's what I recall as well. Suitable relay sockets are available at both DelCity.net and McMaster. Bare sockets or with wire leads.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  37. #77

    The VW relay 111 941 583 Harness/Plug Needed

    The VW relay 111 941 583 is not a std configuration. The connectors are spaced differently than most.

    VW Relay.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  38. #78
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    The VW relay 111 941 583 is not a std configuration. The connectors are spaced differently than most.

    VW Relay.jpg
    Oops. So much for my memory. Maybe someone else knows where to find one. It wouldn't be terrible to use bare spade connectors and push onto the appropriate terminals.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  39. #79

    Heat Shields on front of foot boxes

    Finished installing heat shields to the front of the foot boxes. PS has a 4" inside section. DS headers wouldn't allow this. Headers installed. Drivers side was challenging.

    PS HS Installed-2.jpg PS HS Installed-3.jpg PS HS Installed - Header Clearance.jpg DS HS Installed-2.jpg DS Header Reliefs-2.jpg DS HS Installed-1.jpg DS Header Reliefs-4.jpg DS Header Reliefs-3.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  40. #80
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Looks good, but man that Coyote doesn't give you much wiggle room.

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