Out of Sight Audio

Visit our community sponsor

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 41 to 53 of 53

Thread: Ducky2009 MK4 Build #9035

  1. #41
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    1,467
    Everything looks great! I really like how the glove box turned out. Moving the heater box out from the firewall, and keeping the glove box deeper at the bottom really makes quite a difference.

    Before you drop the engine back in, you need to grab yourself some grease and a couple of shoe horns! WOW is it close in there! You Coyote guys have a chore.

    I have enjoyed following along, and admire the speed of your build. Mine is a bit more deliberate!

    Keep up the good work!

    Regards,

    Steve

  2. #42
    Thanks Steve. I removed the heater box extension and heater when installing the engine. Speed of build..... I'm retired so I have lots of free time and I've done builds before (but not from kits), thought it's been awhile.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  3. #43

    Trans Shim and Driveshaft Angle

    I've seen several posts about a trans shim being added. The shim "looked" fairly thick. I added 1/4" to mine so that the driveshaft would clear the frame tube. Not sure why the difference in thickness. I did place the trans mount above the frame mount. Guess that's the engineer coming out in me. Why have the bolts carry the load when the mount can sit on top of the frame and carry the load. I'm I missing something... Why the shim should be thicker? ALSO: Is your driveshaft running on an angle like mine?
    Trans Shim.jpgDriveshaft Angle.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  4. #44
    I used a 3/4" shim with coyote/tko-600/irs. My shim was more to make the driveshaft sit level than it was for clearance of the frame tube. What type engine mounts did you use? That may account for some differences versus what I did. I used the newer FFR coyote mounts with the integrated spacers sandwiched in there. They came out late last summer. I would assume that is what came with your kit.

    Here is a picture of my shims installed. Did we mount them in the same location? Mine is between the transmission and the mount. Is yours between the mount and the frame?


    I am having a hard time seeing the angle you are asking about. Visually it is tough with the angled cross braces and it looks like the picture is at a little bit of an angle. I will say the transmission definitely sits towards the passenger side of the tunnel on mine if that is what you are asking. The transmission biased towards the passenger side of the tunnel is normal and expected.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 04-19-2017 at 10:30 AM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  5. #45

    Drive Shaft Alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    I used a 3/4" shim with coyote/tko-600/irs. My shim was more to make the driveshaft sit level than it was for clearance of the frame tube. What type engine mounts did you use? That may account for some differences versus what I did. I used the newer FFR coyote mounts with the integrated spacers sandwiched in there. They came out late last summer. I would assume that is what came with your kit.

    Here are some better pics and definition. I did not shim between the trans mount and trans. I shimmed under the A-Frame mount. NOTE: The A-Frame mount is sitting on top of the frame tab, not under. I added a 1/4" shim on top of the frame tab, under the A-Frame mount, see pic. Without the shim, the drive shaft was touching the 4" frame rail when rotated.
    I'm using a solid rear axle. The upper arm rear end mount is adjusted to "try" to align the pinion angle to the drive shaft. It's close but not completely aligned. Under load (accelerating), the rear end will rotate, making this angle closer to a straight line. I've rotated the pinion up as far as I could (still not completely aligned). I have approx 1/4" before the upper mount touches the Panhard bar.
    The rear end is aligned (centered) with the front end. The drive shaft is presently running low at rear end, higher at the trans end by approx 1/2" It also runs sideways, centered at rear end and more to the passenger side at the trans end. Looks like everyone has this issue. Not sure if it's a manufacturing flaw or by design. If by design, I'd like to understand why.

    Trans Shim with definition.jpgPanhard Bar and Axle Upper Link.jpgPinion Angle.jpgDrive Shaft Side Angle.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-19-2017 at 09:29 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  6. #46

    Leather for Dash

    I found leather for the dash. After reading a few posts and searching the web for leather, I found out the Tandy leather store is about 30 minutes from my house. Ended up buying 3 oz leather, 1/2 hide for $99 (military discount applied). If you want to look it up, it's called Studio Sides on their site. They had thinner and thicker. The thinner was way to thin. The thicker was defined as to make motorcycle chaps... way too heavy. The tape measures cross at 6 feet and 20".

    Leather for Dash.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-19-2017 at 09:28 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  7. #47
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Slidell Louisiana
    Posts
    1,155
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Here are some better pics and definition. I did not shim between the trans mount and trans. I shimmed under the A-Frame mount. NOTE: The A-Frame mount is sitting on top of the frame tab, not under. I added a 1/4" shim on top of the frame tab, under the A-Frame mount, see pic. Without the shim, the drive shaft was touching the 4" frame rail when rotated.
    I'm using a solid rear axle. The upper arm rear end mount is adjusted to "try" to align the pinion angle to the drive shaft. It's close but not completely aligned. Under load (accelerating), the rear end will rotate, making this angle closer to a straight line. I've rotated the pinion up as far as I could (still not completely aligned). I have approx 1/4" before the upper mount touches the Panhard bar.
    The rear end is aligned (centered) with the front end. The drive shaft is presently running low at rear end, higher at the trans end by approx 1/2" It also runs sideways, centered at rear end and more to the passenger side at the trans end. Looks like everyone has this issue. Not sure if it's a manufacturing flaw or by design. If by design, I'd like to understand why.

    Trans Shim with definition.jpgPanhard Bar and Axle Upper Link.jpgPinion Angle.jpgDrive Shaft Side Angle.jpg
    Ducky2009,

    If you have the upper link as far back as you can get it and still have issues with pinion angle and/or the possibility of the upper link contacting the panhard bar brace, then you can get away with shortening your lower control arms which will pull the pinion up and allow you to draw in the upper link so that it clears the brace. The stock lowers are 17 5/8" so I had a shorter pair made that are 17" to make things line up and clear. In addition, please understand that my issue was caused by the fact that I installed my driveline at ZERO degrees so I had to tilt the pinion angle up a good bit to get it in phase with the engine and transmission.

    Spohn Performance made a new set for me and they also offer an adjustable set for Factory Five Cars as well.

    http://www.spohn.net/shop/Factory-Fi...ot-Joints.html

    My actual wheelbase is now 89.5" and I am able to clear my rear tires at full offset or tilt with no problems with clearance; however, I am running 285-40/17's on the rear and not the normal 315-35/17's.

    https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

    Also, please know that the pinion is not in allignment with the drive line when looking at it from above. It is offset so that it cycles the needle bearings of the U-Joints; however, you do need to make sure that you are in phase.

    https://youtu.be/gmV4qwLfOMY

    Hope this information helps and remember that your U-Joints must be in phase in order to avoid vibrations and premature drive line failures.

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-19-2017 at 10:39 PM.

  8. #48


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    2,615
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    ... If by design, I'd like to understand why.
    Two fold. If a driveline doesn't have a couple degrees of angle the u-joint's needle bearings will not rotate and will fail. In the case of our cars I've heard a few different reasons as to why the engine is slightly offset to the passenger side; the ones that seem to most often be repeated are that it is to compensate for the driver's weight &/or provide a bit more footbox room on the driver's side.

    Jeff

  9. #49
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,140
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Two fold. If a driveline doesn't have a couple degrees of angle the u-joint's needle bearings will not rotate and will fail. In the case of our cars I've heard a few different reasons as to why the engine is slightly offset to the passenger side; the ones that seem to most often be repeated are that it is to compensate for the driver's weight &/or provide a bit more footbox room on the driver's side.

    Jeff
    Agreed. The offset driveline is completely by design. In addition to the reasons cited by Jeff (not too handy for our RH drive friends...) I've also read this is due to the differential/axle design. Ideally, the two axles should be nearly the same length. With the ring gear in the center, the pinion and driveshaft flange must be offset.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015-2017 Coyote. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  10. #50
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Slidell Louisiana
    Posts
    1,155
    Blog Entries
    1
    Jeff Kleiner & EdwardB are my go to guys for many of my 1st time builder questions.

    Any advice these fellows give you in my opinion is always Expert Advice!

  11. #51
    Steve, Thanks for sharing the links. I've watched the phasing video before, but that was the last think on my mind as I was looking at this issue. After reviewing the situation I decided to rotated the axle upper link (1/4
    ") on the axle. This created a gap between the third member and the support arm on the upper link. I added a 1" spacer to fill the gap. Still need to align the pinion.

    Rotated Axle Upper Link.jpgRear End Rotation Shim.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-21-2017 at 10:36 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  12. #52
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Slidell Louisiana
    Posts
    1,155
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Steve, Thanks for sharing the links. I've watched the phasing video before, but that was the last think on my mind as I was looking at this issue. After reviewing the situation I decided to rotated the axle upper link (1/4
    ") on the axle. This created a gap between the third member and the support arm on the upper link. I added a 1" spacer to fill the gap. Still need to align the pinion.

    Rotated Axle Upper Link.jpgRear End Rotation Shim.jpg
    Glad I Could Help & It Looks Like You Are On Your Way To A Perfect Pinion Alignment!

    Also, on my rear end the upper link is welded in place (MOSER TSD-500) so I was not able to rotate it the upper bracket.
    It really had me frustrated because I was pitched down 3-Degrees with the upper link all the way out causing it to hit the Panhard Bar Brace.
    Since my drive line is set at ZERO Degrees (Horizontal With The Frame) I had to figure out Plan-B, which was to shorten the lowers.

    Keep Plugging Away & You'll Get There!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-22-2017 at 02:52 PM.

  13. #53
    Steve, I plan to weld a bracket to the rear end and bolt to the upper link. Still looking for the best placement.

    I've thought about the trans shim you used (Paul's design) and realized mine works, BUT, if someone else works on this and doesn't notice where it goes, it might get left out and create a problem. Bolting it under the mount eliminates this possibility.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Visit our community sponsor