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Thread: Ducky2009 MK4 Build #9035

  1. #1

    Ducky2009 MK4 Build #9035

    Ordered my kit in December during the end of year sale. Delivered 2/17/17

    My order included:
    MK IV complete kit
    Powder coated chassis
    Body cut outs
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600
    3-Link rear suspension - Straight Axle
    FFR Vintage gauge set
    Power steering kit
    Power Brakes
    17" Halibrand wheels
    Stainless exhaust
    Kirkey High Back Seats
    Chrome driver and passenger roll bars
    Heater and Wipers
    Wind wings
    Sun visors

    Also plan to use:
    CNC Reservoirs
    Drop Trunk
    Russ Thompson Turn signal

    Now the fun begins!

    IMG1992.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-20-2017 at 11:09 PM.

  2. #2
    Inventory complete. Missing 8 things not on the POL list. Not sure if that's normal! Can't make much progress at this point. Missing all four Spring Collars/Seats, Bolts for Lower Control Arms and Steering Rack, amount other items. Drilling aluminum then stopped for now.

    Question: Has anyone used Anodize instead of Power Coating?

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    I can vouch for the Power Steering Rack being on back order, waiting since Nov 2016.
    Still, a fun hobby and FFR is good to deal with.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  4. #4
    Has anyone know the part number of these master cylinder fluid line caps? I'm using a 98 Mustang MC and Hydroboost, but need to remove the original reservoir.
    Attachment 64431
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-25-2017 at 09:07 AM.

  5. #5
    Congrats on your new arrival Ducky. You're in for a lot of fun. Enjoy it. I got my Mk4 last April and have had a very fulfilling time building it. Your build sounds a lot like mine. It's never any cheaper to add things to the car than when you first build it. Do you still have the body on? If so, could I bother you for a pic of the distance from the edge of the rolled fiberglass to the dash hoop ( looking up ) and the same for the edge of the fiberglass to the rear bulkhead aluminum? I'm trying to get an idea of how much clearance there is at those two points for the dash face to clear in the front and carpet clearance in the rear. I took hundreds of pics of mine but in my excitement forgot those two crucial shots. My dash has fasteners behind it that move it out a little and I ran koolmat under the carpet in rear. Thanks for any help you can give here. Mine is in gocart right now so if you have any questions feel free.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Stainless side pipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  6. #6
    Sorry, the body is already off.

  7. #7

    Drop Trunk

    Received most of my back order parts. Steering rack damaged (smashed lines). Now moving forward again. Made an 1/8" thick Firewall to stiffen it up a little. Plan to give it a polished finish and clear coat it. Made my own Drop Trunk.
    Drop Trunk.jpgAttachment 65116
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-16-2017 at 08:36 PM.

  8. #8

    Oil Pan - Dip stick issues

    New steering rack to be delivered on Thursday. Presently working on engine assy... Power steering, Alt, and assemble clutch, scatter shield and trans, etc... Needed to modify the Moroso oil pan to allow the dip stick to insert 100%.New Dipstick hole location.jpgNew Dipstick hole in Baffle.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-16-2017 at 08:33 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  9. #9

    Engine-Trans Assy

    Waiting on the steering rack (first one had damaged lines), so I assembled the engine, clutch, trans. Steering rack due tomorrow. Ready to install steering, wheels and trial fit the engine. Need to check clearances and define heater/wiper locations, etc...

    Engine-Trans Assy.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  10. #10

    Steering - Breeze Offset Rack Mount Bushings kit

    QUESTION: How many of you used the Breeze Offset Rack Mounting kit (#70634) to lower (by .35") the steering rack on your MK4? I understand the frame mount geometry was improved on the MK4 and the need for this mod "May" not be needed. Thoughts?
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    QUESTION: How many of you used the Breeze Offset Rack Mounting kit (#70634) to lower (by .35") the steering rack on your MK4? I understand the frame mount geometry was improved on the MK4 and the need for this mod "May" not be needed. Thoughts?
    I used it. Like every other breeze part it is great quality with great directions and installs easily. I did offset the rack a little. Can't say whether or not I consider it a must use but I am happy I did.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  12. #12
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    X2. I've used on each of my builds as well. On Mk3's, the rack mounting wasn't centered, so the Breeze mounts help to get the rack to the center. You're right. That's fixed on the Mk4. But the Breeze mounts lower the rack slightly and also move it away from the frame uprights where the rack boots can drag. I'm not sure how much it matters, but also makes the rack a solid mount vs. the rubber bushings. All around I think a worthwhile upgrade.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  13. #13

    Engine Fit - Close to drivers side

    The engine is in for a trial fit. Need to take it out to coat the panels. I'm adding a heater and want a glovebox. More on that later. The drivers side has no (touching the footbox at the rear of the engine) clearance, passenger side has one inch. Anyone else have this problem? Has anyone tried to shift the engine from side to side? FYI... Trans mount is bolted in.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-23-2017 at 07:29 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  14. #14
    I didn't like the idea of cutting the e-brake cables and using Home Depot aluminum cable swages. I also didn't like the FF design to run bare cables under the frame rail. I decided to run the cable sheath under the frame rail. I fabed a bracket the correct length to permit not cutting the cables. I will also be added a shield to protect the cable sheaths.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  15. #15
    Thanks Paul and wareaglescott.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    The engine is in for a trial fit. Need to take it out to coat the panels. I'm adding a heater and want a glovebox. More on that later. The drivers side has no (touching the footbox at the rear of the engine) clearance, passenger side has one inch. Anyone else have this problem? Has anyone tried to shift the engine from side to side? FYI... Trans mount is bolted in.
    Your pictures look like the exact same clearance I had on the coyote. I did not shift it any side to side. Seems to work just fine like that. In my case the transmission already sits towards the passenger side of the tunnel. IF you moved the engine over that would cause the transmission to sit even more off center.
    FYI I ended up copying Edward B and used a 3/4" transmission spacer. We are both running IRS though so that may not apply to you.

    I am wondering if the moderators could move this thread over to the Roadster build threads section? I almost miss it over here in the welcome and introductions section.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  17. #17
    Wareaglescott,
    Thanks for the reply. I'll look up the spacer and ask the moderator to move me. Didn't realize what I did... posting is the welcome section.
    Ducky
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  18. #18

    Heater and a Glove Box

    Modified the firewall to space the heater out, trying to allow for a glove box too. It will be shallow (approx 3 3/4") but I'll have a glove box.

    Heater Extension Box.jpgHeater - Glovebox Spacing.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Modified the firewall to space the heater out, trying to allow for a glove box too. It will be shallow (approx 3 3/4") but I'll have a glove box.

    Heater Extension Box.jpgHeater - Glovebox Spacing.jpg
    It will get very tight behind the dash with the heater and associated ducting, the glove box and wiring. I mounted the fuse box from Ford Racing (included in the controls pack) under the dash just above the trans tunnel. It is hidden with a console kit. The wiring from the fuse box to the Coyote and ECM is out of sight behind the dash and runs under the heater. It goes through the hole on the far right provided by FFR.
    I like your mod for bringing the heater forward. Good job.

  20. #20
    Dave, Thanks for the feedback. I'm ready to start wiring and have been reviewing several posts, trying to determine some of the wire routing. I think I'm going to mount the Coyote fuse box on the firewall, in the engine compartment, similar to Edwardb. Also, after debating aluminum coating choices (powder coating, paint, bare alum, etc), I decided to scuff the surface and spray with clearcoat. Not planning to enter in a car show.... just drive and enjoy. Note: The DS footbox has a few extra holes (cover plate not shown). I setup the pedal box to accept a hydroboost, just in case I don't like the breaking with the Wilwood manual brakes (Mustang Cobra calipers front and rear).

    FootBox Assy.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    The engine is in for a trial fit. Need to take it out to coat the panels. I'm adding a heater and want a glovebox. More on that later. The drivers side has no (touching the footbox at the rear of the engine) clearance, passenger side has one inch. Anyone else have this problem? Has anyone tried to shift the engine from side to side? FYI... Trans mount is bolted in.
    Just wanted to confirm what wareaglescott said, our Coyote fit was similar. I think we were able to adjust the engine in the mounts to get a tiny bit of clearance.

  22. #22
    Thanks for your input Doug. Instead of using engine mount shims "IN" the mount, I'm using a shim under the mount, 1/2" shim on DS and 1/4" on PS. This centers the engine fairly well and still leaves enough adjustment in the mounts to level out the engine. Starting the wiring. Had to make a fuse box mounting plate. The one supplied was not large enough to fit the fuse box.
    Fusebox Mounting Plate.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  23. #23
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Thanks for your input Doug. Instead of using engine mount shims "IN" the mount, I'm using a shim under the mount, 1/2" shim on DS and 1/4" on PS. This centers the engine fairly well and still leaves enough adjustment in the mounts to level out the engine. Starting the wiring. Had to make a fuse box mounting plate. The one supplied was not large enough to fit the fuse box.
    Nice work on the plate. But you should have received one with the kit. There are two. One for a donor fuse box and one for the Ron Francis fuse box. Regarding engine placement, hold that thought. Having the engine level is a goal I guess. But clearance inside the footboxes plus header/side pipe alignment are also in the mix. Which you won't find out about for awhile. Sometimes it's necessary to tweak to get the best for all three. In the end, if the engine isn't perfectly level, that's OK.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    ... Regarding engine placement, hold that thought. Having the engine level is a goal I guess. But clearance inside the footboxes plus header/side pipe alignment are also in the mix. Which you won't find out about for awhile. Sometimes it's necessary to tweak to get the best for all three. In the end, if the engine isn't perfectly level, that's OK.
    Yes, you'll need your engine level for proper header / side pipe fit.

    Take a look at this shot from us first fitting our side pipes. FF originally shipped us two right pipes, so we were focused no fitting it. Then we looked through the nose ...

    2017-03-07 09.43.18.jpg

    Note that the right (passenger side) goes through the opening but the left is almost 2" too high? Leveling it balanced it out:

    2017-03-07 11.18.55.jpg

    We're closer than we want to be to the driver's side foot box, but it was needed to get the side pipes right.

  25. #25
    Thanks Doug. I was measuring from the floor up to the head flanges to balance it out. Adjusting the engine mount shims, then shifting to level the engine. I did achieve a little better fit than when I started. I also discovered that the DS header was touching the footbox when I started. It's about 1/4" away now. I think I'm going to heat the header, use a 1.00" bar and deform it a little at the FB corner.

    Thanks Paul. The fuse box mounting plate was in the wiring harness box. I pulled the fuse box wiring harness out and the plate was in the bottom of the box, covered by the rest of the wiring. Good think I only had about 30 minutes in making one (have access to a fab shop with a brake, sheer, welders, etc...). I started the wiring. Not as daunting as I imagined, thanks to reading up on posts and a few people email replies (thanks again Paul)!
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  26. #26
    This will make you feel better. We got the engine back in our Mark IV last week. The final position won't be dialed in until the body is remounted, but here's where we are to the driver's side footbox.

    2017-03-31 16.58.07.jpg

    It's a bit snug. The passenger side is better, but still pretty tight (sorry for the slightly blurry picture).

    2017-03-31 16.58.18.jpg

  27. #27

    Wiring

    Thanks for sharing Doug. I'm getting ready to reinstall the engine early next week. Have some ideas to shift it a little and keep level. I'll post pics when it's in. Presently working on wiring. Sorting through all the connections and fitting the extra bundle lengths under the dash. After adding the master cutoff switch I discovered that I need extra battery cable ends and a crimping tool. Wasn't thinking ahead on that one. I'm also going to use the competition style dash, similar to Edwardb's design. Thanks Paul for listing the dimensional layout.

    Master Switch and Coyote Fuse.jpgDash Wiring.jpgBattery Cable Ends.jpgCrimp Tool.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-04-2017 at 11:29 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  28. #28

    Coyote Wiring Question

    OK, I'm down to the last wire. 16 pin Pigtail (coyote). Blunt Lead #8 - Hot all the Time (red). Set-up B, Directions.... Connect lead to input node of the ignition cylinder. Set-up B diagram (Coyote - page 20) makes it look like Lead #8 is the only wire connected to the ignition input. The Ron Francis harness instructions shows two attached wires (ultimately tying battery, alternator, and RF hot lead to fuse box) together. Question, is lead #8 feeding 12V to the switch or picking up 12 volts to feed something else? If it's picking up 12 volts, is it needed? The Ford Coyote fuse box is already being fed 12 volts.

    One more question. Electric fuel pump circuit. Coyote install instructions (electronic version, starting on page 73). Directions.... Remove fuel pump fuse, cut the tan wire connector on the harness end off (connector doesn't exist) and solder to green wire (blunt lead #1). Tan wire end leading to the fuel pump, right? Question, with the 12 volt positive feed cut and fuse removed, how is the inertia switch going to work?
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  29. #29
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    OK, I'm down to the last wire. 16 pin Pigtail (coyote). Blunt Lead #8 - Hot all the Time (red). Set-up B, Directions.... Connect lead to input node of the ignition cylinder. Set-up B diagram (Coyote - page 20) makes it look like Lead #8 is the only wire connected to the ignition input. The Ron Francis harness instructions shows two attached wires (ultimately tying battery, alternator, and RF hot lead to fuse box) together. Question, is lead #8 feeding 12V to the switch or picking up 12 volts to feed something else? If it's picking up 12 volts, is it needed? The Ford Coyote fuse box is already being fed 12 volts.

    One more question. Electric fuel pump circuit. Coyote install instructions (electronic version, starting on page 73). Directions.... Remove fuel pump fuse, cut the tan wire connector on the harness end off (connector doesn't exist) and solder to green wire (blunt lead #1). Tan wire end leading to the fuel pump, right? Question, with the 12 volt positive feed cut and fuse removed, how is the inertia switch going to work?
    The HAAT B red wire from the Coyote pigtail provides an always on 12V power source. You're right. It's an output not an input. It gets it's power from the PDB via the battery connection. Don't hook it to the ignition switch like SETUP B shows. I chose to use it for the GPS speedo memory wire plus power the clock. The wire isn't needed to make the engine start and run, so can be tied back and not used if you want. While I'm at it, the yellow blunt lead #16, shown in the same SETUP B drawing, is also not needed. In fact I've heard (although no personal experience) it can cause a problem. Don't hook it up as shown. Cover it and tie it out of the way.

    The inertia switch relay is powered by the +12V from the Coyote PDB, same as the fuel pump itself. The most recent FF Coyote installation instructions show cutting the tan wire at a location that bypasses the inertia fuel pump relay in the RF panel. I'm not sure why. Look at an older version of the instructions and they show the proper location. Or just trace the wires and you'll see the right place to tap it in. The fuse in the RF panel is removed, but the relay (and inertia switch) will still work.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  30. #30
    Thanks Paul. Another question or two. I cut the plug off the coyote harness, Item B, C500 (PCM Ground/Battery + Main), added an connector and installed to the battery side of the main cutoff switch. Did I just add un-fused power supply to the PCM? The coyote instructions (pages 8 & 9) calls the mating plug (item X on the long battery cable - C500) a Fuse and Relay Power and Ground, but no fuse exists "IN" the connector. I'm assuming it goes through a fuse down stream.

    Now I'm wondering if I should connect to the starter wire side of the main cutoff switch and add a wire from the battery side to the starter side, with a 10 amp fuse. This would give the entire car system constant volts (to always hot items) to power PCM memory, radio pre-select stations and my USB outlets (that I want hot when the ignition is off). I would also blow the fuse if someone tried to start the car with the main switch off.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  31. #31
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Thanks Paul. Another question or two. I cut the plug off the coyote harness, Item B, C500 (PCM Ground/Battery + Main), added an connector and installed to the battery side of the main cutoff switch. Did I just add un-fused power supply to the PCM? The coyote instructions (pages 8 & 9) calls the mating plug (item X on the long battery cable - C500) a Fuse and Relay Power and Ground, but no fuse exists "IN" the connector. I'm assuming it goes through a fuse down stream.

    Now I'm wondering if I should connect to the starter wire side of the main cutoff switch and add a wire from the battery side to the starter side, with a 10 amp fuse. This would give the entire car system constant volts (to always hot items) to power PCM memory, radio pre-select stations and my USB outlets (that I want hot when the ignition is off). I would also blow the fuse if someone tried to start the car with the main switch off.
    I didn't wire mine that way, and would recommend some changes. The Controls Pack comes with a Buss 250A in-line fuse. Your power to the PDB and the C500 connection should be through that fuse. I'm not completely sure of the reason to have that large a fuse on the system, but I followed their instructions to use it. I did the main power wiring as follows: From the battery to one side of the master disconnect with a #2 battery cable. From that same post I took a #4 battery cable to one side of the 250A fuse. On the other side of the fuse I connected the C500 red wire plus the front terminal of the PDB. On the switched side of the master disconnect, I have the #4 cable going back to the starter plus the main power connection for the Ron Francis fuse panel.

    Wired this way, the Coyote PDB is always on meaning the PCM is always powered as instructed and the HAAT wires are always on. You can use those for the circuits you want always powered. But the starter and RF harness are switched through the master disconnect. With that off, the car won't start or run, fuel pump won't run, etc. Putting a fuse across the disconnect is a method some use to power accessories but blow if starting is attempted. But with the Coyote harness and PDB, I don't think that's necessary. It can be done a little more elegantly.

    My build thread has a longer explanation and pictures here http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post231732.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-12-2017 at 11:36 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  32. #32
    Thanks again Paul. I changed the master switch connections as you suggested. Inertia switch -- I ended up cutting the tan wire on the RF fuse box at the fuse end (and removing the fuse) and splicing to the green coyote fuel pump relay out wire (Blunt Lead #1). Fuel Pump has 12v and inertia switch kills power when activated.

    According to the Coyote manual, 2015 and newer, you only need to attach the orange fan wire to the fan. The water temp sending unit ties directly to the RF harness/dash gauge. How does the coyote system know when the fan needs powered up?

    This weeks update. STILL waiting large wire harness clamps (battery cables from the master switch down to the starter). Due in tomorrow, then the engine can go back in.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-13-2017 at 12:04 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  33. #33
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    According to the Coyote manual, 2015 and newer, you only need to attach the orange fan wire to the fan. The water temp sending unit ties directly to the RF harness/dash gauge. How does the coyote system know when the fan needs powered up?
    Not to worry. The PCM decides when the fan needs to run based on existing engine sensors. My understanding is the setup doesn't measure the coolant temperature directly, but instead reads cylinder head temperature (CHT) and from that infers coolant temp. Based on the program in the PCM then decides when the fan needs to be run. But that's all internal to the Coyote system. Nothing for you to do. For the DD PCM, if the engine temp is unable to be controlled, the PCM will put the engine in limp home mode. Don't know if the crate motor program does the same thing. I suspect it does, but hope not to find out.

    FWIW, for a more traditional setup (e.g. small block, big block, etc.) the water temp sending and RF harness/dash gauge don't directly affect the fan operation either. It's also just watching. Those engines also have a separate sensor for the fan circuit, although typically measure the coolant temp directly.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-13-2017 at 05:58 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  34. #34
    Edwardb - Thanks again. OK, time to start on the dash layout. Cut my new dash yesterday, got to love plasma cutters. It tool approx 30 minuted to layout and cut, less gauge holes.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  35. #35
    Paul, need your help....again. I'm looking for your dash layout dimensions. I found it once upon a time but can't seem to find it now.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  36. #36
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Paul, need your help....again. I'm looking for your dash layout dimensions. I found it once upon a time but can't seem to find it now.
    I think this is what you're asking about: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/4988081-post52.html. Hope it helps.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  37. #37
    Thanks Paul, that's exactly what I was looking for. I like the looks of that dash over the stock/supplies one. Next step, looking for a rocker switch (approx the size of the seat heaters) for the low/high beam light switch. Also wanting to use the Russ Thompson turn signals momentary switch to blink the high beam lights. Need to research relay switches to work out the details. Last time I wired a car was in the 70's. 1956 Willy's Overlander with a 454. Things were a lot simpler back then, cars didn't have computers.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-14-2017 at 11:21 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  38. #38
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    3,153
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Next step, looking for a rocker switch (approx the size of the seat heaters) for the low/high beam light switch. Also wanting to use the Russ Thompson turn signals momentary switch to blink the high beam lights. Need to research relay switches to work out the details.
    Since you have the RT turn signal setup with the momentary switch, most just use that for both. Headlights off = push button for high beam flash to pass. Headlights on = push button to toggle back and forth between high and low beam. No need to have a separate switch for each. In fact, probably adds complication. Your RT turn signal should have come with several schematics that show turn signals and headlight switching. This is one that I've seen several use, and it's relatively straightforward. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/160511-post3.html. It's built around the usual VW latching relay. Wish there were better options for all electronic switching. I've used modules from American Autowire that work great (no relays!) but they're no longer available. I've seen where some guys have fabbed their own circuitry, but not for the uninitiated. Lots of wiring in any case though. Good luck.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-15-2017 at 07:08 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Since you have the RT turn signal setup with the momentary switch...come with several schematics that show turn signals and headlight switching.
    Thanks for the heads-up. I just sent my steering hub to RT (due back late next week) so I haven't seen the schematics yet.

    Weekly update. Reinstalling the engine today. Laid out the dash last night. Drilling gauge holes next week. Looking for dash leather. Found some large enough, but only 2 OZ (1/32") thick. Doesn't seem thick enough (I've never purchased leather).
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-15-2017 at 10:46 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  40. #40

    Glove Box and Dash

    Making Progress. Dash holes are all in except the steering column. Waiting for the return of the RT turn signals to know the exact size. Glove box welded up and ready to install. GB and dash are 3/32" thk. GB is only 3
    " deep at the top, but 4" deep at the bottom. Hard to tell but there is a "little" clearance between the GB and heater. Using a vacuum driven heater 4-way bypass valve to shut off the hot water to the heater when not in use and still have the recirculating coolant. Found an electric powered vacuum valve to control the bypass valve. Now looking for an isolation relay for the valve. Plan to use the supplies (or something with a nicer looking knob) heater control. Guess I need one more hole in the dash. Need to decide where. I also plan to use electric seat heaters (but don't like to have cold feet).
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-17-2017 at 08:09 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

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