Blue paint for MKIV

[R8er]

Hi folks thanks for all the help over the past couple years. My MKIV is going to paint now. Does anyone have an opinion on house of kolor vs traditional less expensive paint. I want to do S2-kbc04 shimirin oriental blue. My painter said it is a candy color or 3 phase paint? And would look beautiful but would be expensive and near impossible to repair if it got scratched. Any suggestions?

[2FAST4U]

He's right

[edwardb]

One of the concerns of tri-coats is in fact the ability to successfully repair or touch up. For small things (like rock chips) the repairs are going to be similar to other paint if done carefully. But larger damage or repair will typically require a whole panel to be re-painted. It's difficult to blend tri-coats. Even then there's potential for mismatch. I just had my current build painted in a tri-coat. It's beautiful and I'm happy I did it. It will be a driver, but I also understand these drawbacks.

[j.miller]

HOK has an Oriental Blue in PBC (pearl base coat) that is 2 stage. I use it on a Monster Truck I do work on. And yes, 3 stage is something to avoid.

[Paintwerks]

As the Cobra does not have a defined start and end point to the body (ie. no panel breaks), any type of repair on a Cobra body (if it is to be warranted) necessitates a full edge to edge coating of clearcoat over the entire body (bolt on panels excluded). You can blend through the sharp line of the hips (behind the door) as a compromise so you only have to paint half the car. Given this, it really doesn't matter what colour you use. I will say that a regular 2 layer basecoat is easier to blend than a tri stage.

However, blending a 3 layer (tri-stage) is not difficult if the painter has half a brain, Whoever said that they are next to impossible to repair is completely misinformed. I successfully blend and repair 3 layer paint all the time at my bodyshop.

[edwardb]

As the Cobra does not have a defined start and end point to the body (ie. no panel breaks), any type of repair on a Cobra body (if it is to be warranted) necessitates a full edge to edge coating of clearcoat over the entire body (bolt on panels excluded). You can blend through the sharp line of the hips (behind the door) as a compromise so you only have to paint half the car. Given this, it really doesn't matter what colour you use. I will say that a regular 2 layer basecoat is easier to blend than a tri stage.

However, blending a 3 layer (tri-stage) is not difficult if the painter has half a brain, Whoever said that they are next to impossible to repair is completely misinformed. I successfully blend and repair 3 layer paint all the time at my bodyshop.

Maybe there's a point in there somewhere. But accusing painters of having half a brain or being completely misinformed because they don't happen to see things the same as you is a little strong, don't you think?

[CraigS]

Maybe there's a point in there somewhere. But accusing painters of having half a brain or being completely misinformed because they don't happen to see things the same as you is a little strong, don't you think?

I think so.

[j.miller]

Did someone say half-a-brain . THAT WOULD BE ME !!! Yes, a lot of tri stages are not to difficult but then again some are very tough. In this case he is talking about a HOK true candy job.....very difficult. I can do them but I talk people out of them because I believe it is a disservice to my customer on a car they intend to drive and given that the front of the roadster is a chip magnet it is better to avoid, if possible, the Tri coat paint jobs....da Bat