Anyone know if there is a complete set of craftsman tools I could buy that covers most or all nuts and bolts to build my cobra?
I usually buy from Sears.
Mk4 is being delivered in May.
If you haven't seen this already, See attached for a description of what is needed. Taken from Mk4 manual.
Dave
Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
Greenhorn and doing the best I can
My photos are at: My Flickr acct
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I would suggest a few #30 and #10 size drill bits for the rivets to fit correctly. You can get them from McMaster-Carr, Breeze Automotive, and I'm sure plenty of other places. (Holes are almost too small otherwise) If you're like me you will end up with all kinds of new tools anyway, and who doesn't like new tools.
Mike,
Got my kit in May a year ago. How time flies!
One tool I am grateful for having every time I use it is my Harbor Freight pneumatic pop rivet puller. When I install 50-100 rivets like I did the other day for my floor panels, I can't imagine how achy my forearms would be. I might look more like Popeye though . It was a bear to remove the bottom plate and pre-oil the tool, but it works great. One pull of the trigger and the rivet is set - even big or long ones. Get a spring loaded center punch too for marking where you need to drill holes. Keeps the drill from wandering around. Another tool I use that others don't mention much is a tool used by aviation mechanics to countersink flush rivets. It has a S shaped handle. I use it to remove the burr formed on the steel tube after you drill a hole for a rivet. Makes the panels sit nice and flush.
Get 2 GOOD torque wrenches, a low range 10-80 ft/lb and a higher range 50-150. Borrow a big one to do the axle nuts (225 ft/lb). Get a GOOD quality tube bender. I ruined several lengths of fuel line before I bought a decent one and then I couldn't believe how much easier and better the result was.
Have fun
John S
The 2 tools I use all of the time, other than the obvious ones, are my angle grinder (super cheap!) and my cordless impact. If you are going crazy and like to spend money, some kind of lift will make your life a lot easier. To be clear, I don't have one and you don't NEED one...
5.0 HO from a '93 Mustang, SVE heads, Trickflow stage 1 cam, Trickflow Street Burner intake manifold, T-5 w/mid shift, IRS
Delivery 9-10-16, First Start 12-28-16, First Go-Kart 2-18-17
Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-8951-Build
I didn't buy the HF pneumatic riveter until the 3rd or 4th time I tried to pull a 3/16" rivet. The 1/8" rivets are okay with the hand-puller, but I was having to be super careful not to have the riveter bounce and hit my carefully-applied panel paint when the rivet pin snapped off. The 3/16" rivets were impossible with my hand riveter. I have average strength, but couldn't finish the job.
I pulled half a dozen 3/16" rivets with the HF pneumatic last week - no trauma, no wrist ache. Well worth the money. Just hold a rag over the front vent or it will spew oil mist when you pull the trigger.
- Invested in a Milwaukee M18 cordless with Lithium batteries because the constant drilling finally killed my old DeWalt 12V batteries.
- Angle grinder and/or Harbor Freight bench sander (wheel plus strip) are on my wish list.
- Bought a pack of short double-ended #30 bits that last quite a while drilling Aluminum, not quite as long in steel. Also bought three 6" and one 12" #30 bits for those hard-to reach holes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Borrowed a portable band-saw from our company lab to cut steel for brackets and engine lift points. 1/4" steel - no problem.
- Dremel with a good variety of grinding, sanding, and cut-off attachments is almost a requirement
- Solid bench vise
- Borrowed our company engine hoist and bought the HF engine leveler. Looks like the HF 2-ton folding hoist is popular with others.
- Unibits. These things are great for nice, round holes in sheet metal. I got a three-pack of different sizes on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Cleco fasteners and a Cleco pliers. I got 50 in 1/8" and 25 in 3/16". Boulderfly on Amazon is reasonably priced.
- Spray handle for rattle cans. This transformed my spray technique and eliminated finger pain. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- White paint marker, for marking on the black powdercoated chassis. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Metal shears for cutting Aluminum panels. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Deburring tool. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Center punch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ditto on Joe's suggestions. A good 18V cordless is handy but if you are like me and prep a large amount of sheet metal at one time (like the whole trunk area, or both floor panels) the cordless battery life is an issue. If you have a good air compressor a pneumatic drill motor works very well for drilling all those holes at once. The other issue I have with a cordless is the keyless chucks don't hold #30 jobber bits (plain old round ones) well enough that when you are just about through steel tube or channel they grab and spin on the bit. A pain. I can get the keyed chucks tight enough that this doesn't happen.
You can't have too many cleckos !!!
John S.
You guys need to harden up! Pneumatic rivet guns? What's next... Automatic transmissions???
You will still need a manual rivet gun in your pink garage while you are sipping your wine spritzer. Get a swivel head one. It will reach places that nothing else will.
I generally don't like Harbor Freight junk. But here is where they shine:
1. Their torque wrenches have been tested time and time again, by magazines, websites, etc.. They are more than accurate enough for automotive work.
2. Digital calipers. They are the EXACT same ones sold by many companies. The Sears Craftsman ones are the same as HF with their logo on the scale.
3. Rivnut gun. I have many many rivnuts in my build. They are awesome. Refills from McMaster-Carr
4. 3ft long - 3/4"drive breaker bar. I call mine Elmo. Elmo gets it done when the going gets tough and I'm not.
5. 30" metal brake. If you do anything custom, or want your nose panels to fit, you will use it.
You will only need a higher range torque wrench (250 ft-lbs) for one thing. Front hubs. Your local Advance or Auto Zone has loaners. Oops, I see that was covered.
Debur / countersink bit for your drill. EVERY hole you drill should get a quick hit.
Tip - hit all of the edges of AL panels with sandpaper. lightly round the corners of brackets, etc. It makes a nicer build if there is nothing sharp on the car. I can reach in or under anywhere and not get cut.
If I build again, I am getting a combination disk / belt table top sander.
A friend of mine has what is basically a jig saw in a little table, like a router table. That was REALLY nice for cutting custom aluminum parts. I didn't even know they existed. I think is was from Lowes.
Sharpies. Lots of Sharpies. Get some metallic ones too. And paint pens. When you torque something, mark it. Then you know it is done when you come back a few days later.
I have a really nice Bone creeper. You know what I use 99% of the time? A SummitRacing "pit pad". It doesn't move when you crank on a wrench.
Oh! Congrats on the order!!! You are in for a lot of fun and new friends.
Last edited by Avalanche325; 02-22-2017 at 06:10 PM.
GoDadGo's Top-10 things you will need if you decide to go off the reservation and install a completely different driveline:
1. Plasma Cutter
2. Mig Welder With Gas
3. Grinder With Flapper Wheel
4. A Really Good Auto Darkening Welding Shield
5. A Well Made Level
6. An Impeccable Angle Gauge
7. A High-Quality Measuring Tape
8. Patience
9. More Patience
10. A Really Understanding Wife That Loves Cars That Come In A Box!
All kidding aside, I would suggest buying Eastwood's Tubing Flairing Tool.
Well, the best "tools" are answering your questions. If you get in a pinch a simple "shout out" with the offer of sandwiches and soda can solve a whole lot of distress and confusion (have seen it many times).These guys are the BEST and love to help...da Bat
Here's an item that I didn't (feel free to tell me I'm blind) see listed yet: a drill press. I use it A LOT. Just about every aluminum panel was drilled using it. Lots of other little tasks are much easier using it. It used to be on my basement workbench; it's in the garage now. If you decide to get a shop crane, get a two-ton model. The one-ton's arm is too short.
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount
If you think you will 'ever' feel the desire to get a lift ... get it now. I just bought a Dannmar mid-rise scissor lift, their 2-post is about the same price (I wanted something less obtrusive) and have already used it on my MkIII and only yesterday had a need to put my daily driver on it.
Having lifted the Roadster on it, my first thought was that I really should have bought one sooner. It would have made much of the build so much easier, more comfortable, and when it comes to those 'clenching' moments when you're lifting on and off of axle stands, probably a great deal safer.
And no matter what Avalanche says, you'll smile every time you use your HF pneumatic riveter.
FFR6243RD, MkIII, 3.55, IRS, pin-drive width, carb'd 351W, T5, 1/2 dropped butt, Fortes hydraulic clutch, deep dish AC-III wheels by Team III. 9 year build; NY registered 7/18/2016 - "Sweet 16" winner at 2016 Taconic State Nationals 5 days later ... in 'rough as hell' gel coat for the foreseeable future! Build Blog - Leave me a comment!
Register your car with the Factory Five Cars Rule! mobile app available from the app store
If you think you will 'ever' feel the desire to get a lift ... get it now. I just bought a Dannmar mid-rise scissor lift, their 2-post is about the same price (I wanted something less obtrusive) and have already used it on my MkIII and only yesterday had a need to put my daily driver on it.
Having lifted the Roadster on it, my first thought was that I really should have bought one sooner. It would have made much of the build so much easier, more comfortable, and when it comes to those 'clenching' moments when you're lifting on and off of axle stands, probably a great deal safer.
And no matter what Avalanche says, you'll smile every time you use your HF pneumatic riveter.
Makes the build WAY easier. Especially the flooring and pedal box stuff. Best investment I may have ever made.
I know guys love cleco's, but I have made it almost entirely through my build without one cleco. I just use the 5/8" sheet metal self tapping screws that held the sheet metal to the frame during delivery. I am sure expects may have good reasons for clecos, but this was one area (one of the few!!) where I cheaped out and did not buy a tool! To each his own.
Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
I'm not too far into my build but have one MAJOR add since most have already been discussed covering the basics. And to top it off, it'll be one of the cheapest tools you'll get. It's a homemade metal tab/bracket spreader. A short length of 1/2" all-thread, two large washers, and two nuts. Won't cost you more than $2 at your local hardware store if you don't already have this stuff laying around.
The first thing most guys start building is the suspension and I instantly found that many/most brackets are not a perfect fit. I expected this since metal shrinks when welded, even when done in a quality frame jig. If you bang on a tab with a hammer or try to pry the tabs, it won't be accurate and you'll chip the powder coat. VERY frustrating and makes you unfairly wonder what the quality of the product is during the very first steps of the build. Just "construct" the tool as pictured and twist the nuts in opposite directions. No need to lube the bolt, you shouldn't have to exert that much force. Spread the tabs slightly beyond what you need since the metal has some spring/memory.
With this simple tool, you can stretch tabs just slightly to get an a-arm to fit, add another washer/spacer, etc... It was invaluable during the exciting first steps of the build. I would consider it mandatory for any build, regardless of Roadster, 33, GTM, etc...
A quality (not Harbor Freight) set of taps in the #10-32, 1/4"-20, 1/4"-24, and 5/16"-24 sizes, and the associated drill bits. Let's you secure brake lines, fuel lines, hoses, electrical wiring, and all sorts of stuff directly to your frame; I must have fifty #10 screws alone. The 5/16"-24 lets you add grounding lugs at will.
Welcome to the ride of your life (the build, not the car)!
Clecos were very helpful in my build. A couple of things I found useful were jigsaw, cutoff wheel, and to finish the cuts some good files. POR15 is always handy to have around too.
JRL16
Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.
2. Digital calipers. They are the EXACT same ones sold by many companies. The Sears Craftsman ones are the same as HF with their logo on the scale.
Which HF Digital Calipers are you referring to? Harbor Freight lists 10 different ones, 5 - 6 if you take out the duplicates. (Never understood why HF has duplicate listings of tools with different Item #)
I did not purchase it initially but later on in the build when I needed to make some custom brackets I bought a Milwaukee Portaband saw. I made a stand to set it vertical along with a table cutting surface. I have no idea how I survived in the garage without this prior. It is the handiest damn thing I have ever bought and modified. Any time I need to cut something, whether it is wood or metal I can run it through the band saw sitting on the end of my bench. I cut aluminum panels for when I built my fan shroud and drop trunk floor. I cut steel angle pieces when I made my throttle cable brackets. That along with a bench top Belt/disk combo sander, it is amazing what you can make.
Now I keep finding myself looking at used Pan Brakes and Jump Shears on Craigs list... OK, OK, I'll admit, it's an addiction...
I did not purchase it initially but later on in the build when I needed to make some custom brackets I bought a Milwaukee Portaband saw. I made a stand to set it vertical along with a table cutting surface. I have no idea how I survived in the garage without this prior. It is the handiest damn thing I have ever bought and modified. Any time I need to cut something, whether it is wood or metal I can run it through the band saw sitting on the end of my bench. I cut aluminum panels for when I built my fan shroud and drop trunk floor. I cut steel angle pieces when I made my throttle cable brackets. That along with a bench top Belt/disk combo sander, it is amazing what you can make.
Now I keep finding myself looking at used Pan Brakes and Jump Shears on Craigs list... OK, OK, I'll admit, it's an addiction...
Must Build Something...
jj
Could you post a pic of your portaband saw set up?
Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
Road Legal August 31, 2017
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. It was a bear to remove the bottom plate and pre-oil the tool, but it works great. One pull of the trigger and the rivet is set - even big or long ones. Get a spring loaded center punch too for marking where you need to drill holes. Keeps the drill from wandering around. Another tool I use that others don't mention much is a tool used by aviation mechanics to countersink flush rivets. It has a S shaped handle. I use it to remove the burr formed on the steel tube after you drill a hole for a rivet. Makes the panels sit nice and flush.
Originally Posted by jwsnake56
