Detailed Drawings of Bell Crank Shift Linkage

[Wageslave]

Does anyone have detailed drawings of the bell crank shift linkage they could share.
I just bought an unfinished coupe and it needs work, I want to start with improving the drivability.
I'm planning on an MR2 shifter change to try to relieve some of the slop in my shifter, can't tell what gear I'm in it's so bad.
I'd like to change the rear linkage as well and the bell crank set up looks like the trick set up. I've searched for threads on it and found some great pics but nothing on the how.
I'm a pretty good fabricator but no engineer and I need a clue on where to start

Thanks for any help

[Mechie3]

I'll be of some help...and not some help. Lol.

Go to www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com/products and you'll see pics of the one I have for sale. It doesn't show dimensions but you can at least look at it and get some ideas. If you're going to make your own, nothing will stop you and researching others solutions is always a good first step.

If you don't want to make your own, I do plan to make another order of parts in a couple of weeks and will have them for sale again.

[Wageslave]

I'll be of some help...and not some help. Lol.

Go to www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com/products and you'll see pics of the one I have for sale. It doesn't show dimensions but you can at least look at it and get some ideas. If you're going to make your own, nothing will stop you and researching others solutions is always a good first step.

If you don't want to make your own, I do plan to make another order of parts in a couple of weeks and will have them for sale again.

Thanks for the reply Mechie, please let me know when you have them for sale again, I'd like to get in on a group buy if possible. Cost is always an issue.

[Jim Haar]

Craig, glad to hear you're going to do another order, put me down as
your first customer !

Thanks , Jim

[RM1SepEx]

Shifter cables http://www.boatersland.com/telccx43307.html

clamps http://www.mcmaster.com/#2695k85/=w3ugmq

At transaxle: 4 inch bell crank for "twist" motion with 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID oilite bushing from Ace, cut stock FFR shift bracket vertical mount for twist, used horizontal for pivot for bell crank, modified the bulkhead tab for in/out replaced tab with two holes for clamp listed above, mounted clamp for twist through bell crank in 2 x 2 x 1/8 aluminum angle mounted under FFR shift bracket. Used 1/4 - 28 female rod ends and FFR provided ball stud ends where appropriate. My FFR bracket is shifted 1.5 inch forward and my shift arm is flipped so the bracket is forward and it is welded to the shift coupler.

At Shifter: Drilled MR2 shifter for 3/8OD, 1/4 ID oilite bushing, shortened as required. Cut off peg from stock twist motion arm, drilled for 1/4 through hole. Used 1/4 -28 female rod ends to connect to cables. Cables clamped with McMaster clamps listed above. Hung shifter ball socket 1/2 under plate to limit up angle on cables.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Thread/page27 post 1043 for pictures etc

note, finding my old posts mine are 7 feet NOT 8" sorry

[Wageslave]

Thanks Dan,
The linkage looks great

[RM1SepEx]

Hack mechanic work, used as much of original FFR brackets as possible. I have modified the shifter plate a bit and nbow use a machined cover by zero DB motorsports to support the shifter ball ball cup, mine was a wee bit too open allowing the cup to move making shifting a bit sloppy. These are old photos, hidden under my trunk now. If I did it again I'd just retain the MR2 plate and use bulkhead cable ends on the shifter end. I used the clamps as they are cheaper and easier to fabricate with my available resources.

[Wageslave]

Hack mechanic work, used as much of original FFR brackets as possible. I have modified the shifter plate a bit and nbow use a machined cover by zero DB motorsports to support the shifter ball ball cup, mine was a wee bit too open allowing the cup to move making shifting a bit sloppy. These are old photos, hidden under my trunk now. If I did it again I'd just retain the MR2 plate and use bulkhead cable ends on the shifter end. I used the clamps as they are cheaper and easier to fabricate with my available resources.

Hack mechanic work or artful repurposing, if it works and is reliable it's golden.
I'm copying all your posts and will compile them and print them out when I get to the shifter,
Thanks again Dan

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hack mechanic work or artful repurposing, if it works and is reliable it's golden.
I'm copying all your posts and will compile them and print them out when I get to the shifter,
Thanks again Dan

If we're giving awards for hacked bell cranks, I need to enter mine.
side_shifter.jpg

[Hindsight]

If we're giving awards for hacked bell cranks, I need to enter mine.
side_shifter.jpg

LOL, you are funny Bob.

Here is a pic of mine:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post226082

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, mine would have taken so much longer to develop w/o our group effort, remember how long the posts got so rapidly? Thanks to you, Craig and Andrew and Tamra we all had a great understanding of the linkage requirements very rapidly. Craig's is very pretty, ours are functional. I seem to remember that you and Andrew seemed to have a new revision almost every 3-4 days!

[RM1SepEx]

LOL, you are funny Bob.

Here is a pic of mine:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post226082

Your's is very nice, worked off what we had done... I'd place it beyond a hack but not as refined as Craig's, I'd add some locknuts on the rod ends though...

[Hindsight]

Thanks Dan. Yup I was well-served by you pioneers!

I did add lock nuts to the rod ends, ultimately. Helped take out the slop! The threaded tubes and rod ends are not right+left hand threaded though so I can't adjust them without removing a rod end. Not "trick" I know, but honestly once you set it, you can forget it and don't need to adjust it ever again. Saved me from having to buy a left-handed tap.