Body Work Advise

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thank you Jeff, I found your post. Not sure what 1/4" thick runner sheet is but sounds like a bumper of sort to "lift" the body to meet the hood rather than try to get the hood to meet the body.

I think there must have been a typo in that post---should be "rubber", not "runner" (it's actually conveyor belt material) but yeah, the idea is to bring the body to the hood. Like Mark advised just get things functioning for now and let the body guy fine tune it.

Cheers,
Jeff

[scottiec]

looking great!

[mcwho]

Gumball,

Your car looks awesome.

My son and I started the bodywork about a year ago. We really like the writeup that J. Keiner had posted out here. My son lives in Chicago and I live in Florida, he has taken a few weeks here and there and now we are almost ready for paint. The body is filled, primered an smooth, at this point the body is on, and we are fitting everything, an we have found lots of good info here. As for the side holes where the exausts go thru, I used a dremel and a 1 1/2 round sanding disk to make the corners even. The dremel cuts thru the body like Butter.

my .02 cents

[RickP]

I've got a couple of questions that I hope those in the know can steer me in the right direction

1. Does the rear firewall edge get a bulb seal. I've come across conflicting information



2. Lastly; My trunk lock thru bolt hole does not quite line up with the aluminum. Originally, I had no idea why this odd hole was even in the aluminum and frame so I ran a rivet thru it. Now I am well aware of what it's for.

a.) should I tap the hole and size the hole in the aluminum to match up?

OR

b.) Should I drill out the hole and nut the bolt from behind? Not sure if the bolt is long enough with the body off.

OR

c.) Do something else.

[carlewms]

Rick,

Ditto on your question ... I have the exact same issue on my Mk 4. The hole in the aluminum is slightly to the right of the hole in the fiberglass lip of the trunk.

The other thing I have noticed in fitting the trunk lid is that their is considerable lateral movement of the latch end of the trunk when you close the latch.

Carl

[edwardb]

1. The corner your pointing to on the rear cockpit wall does get bulb seal. From right about the door latch to the trunk sides. Nothing across the top of the back wall between the trunk sides.

2. For the trunk latch, I would open the hole as necessary to get the provided bolt through. There's a nut and washer for the back side. Hopefully you have small and flexible fingers to install them. It's pretty tight.

When properly aligned and the right bulb seal around the trunk opening, the latch pulls down on the catch pretty firmly. There shouldn't be any movement.

[RickP]

1. The corner your pointing to on the rear cockpit wall does get bulb seal. From right about the door latch to the trunk sides. Nothing across the top of the back wall between the trunk sides.

2. For the trunk latch, I would open the hole as necessary to get the provided bolt through. There's a nut and washer for the back side. Hopefully you have small and flexible fingers to install them. It's pretty tight.

When properly aligned and the right bulb seal around the trunk opening, the latch pulls down on the catch pretty firmly. There shouldn't be any movement.

Thank you Paul. Exactly the info I was looking for.

[RickP]

Rick,

Ditto on your question ... I have the exact same issue on my Mk 4. The hole in the aluminum is slightly to the right of the hole in the fiberglass lip of the trunk.

The other thing I have noticed in fitting the trunk lid is that their is considerable lateral movement of the latch end of the trunk when you close the latch.

Carl

I'm hoping to get the body back on this weekend. The hole in the fiberglass lip "appears" to line up but that's from an eyeball it perspective. I'll really know what I'm facing once I run the catch bolt through. At least I have the trunk lid trimmed to fit and swinging.

[Jeff Kleiner]

As Paul already noted belb seal goes on the "wings" behind the seats but not across the rear bulkhead:



It's not unusual to need to make some adjustment to the latch pin location. You can slot or oversize the holes in the body &/or chassis a bit then use a washer on both sides so that you can pinch it tight once you've found the sweet spot horizontally and vertically. Carl, yes, as the latch hook rotates around the pin it can shift the lower edge of lid side to side. You'll want to set the pin so that it brings the lid to center when fully latched which may require adjusting it's position as mentioned.

Good luck,
Jeff

[RickP]

As Paul already noted belb seal goes on the "wings" behind the seats but not across the rear bulkhead:



It's not unusual to need to make some adjustment to the latch pin location. You can slot or oversize the holes in the body &/or chassis a bit then use a washer on both sides so that you can pinch it tight once you've found the sweet spot horizontally and vertically. Carl, yes, as the latch hook rotates around the pin it can shift the lower edge of lid side to side. You'll want to set the pin so that it brings the lid to center when fully latched which may require adjusting it's position as mentioned.

Good luck,
Jeff

Thank you JK for the "how to" on the catch pin. Makes perfect sense. If it landed dead perfect I would be surprised.

[RickP]

I have the hood fitted and swinging to a point where I think it's acceptable for "gel coat" riding. Certainly not paint ready seams etc. The body and hood are pretty level so I went ahead and mounted the hood closers and fitted my Breeze prop rods. I was going to move onto the windshield but I need to line up my buddy and in the meantime, should I cut and mount the hood scoop OR should I leave that for the body/paint pro when the times comes? I am painting it with stripes and am concerned about stripe to hood scoop alignment.

rick

[Jeff Kleiner]

...should I cut and mount the hood scoop OR should I leave that for the body/paint pro when the times comes? I am painting it with stripes and am concerned about stripe to hood scoop alignment.

rick

I prefer to get them untouched but maybe your painter isn't the same kind of control freak perfectionist that I am

Jeff

[RickP]

I prefer to get them untouched but maybe your painter isn't the same kind of control freak perfectionist that I am

Jeff

Thank you Jeff. I'm going to take your advise and not fuss with it. Pretty much stay the course and continue getting everything fitted.

[RickP]

I've made some steady strides with much "a do". Thought I would get some pics up so the question doesn't arise "where are you at in the build". Upfront, there is a question at the end of this post!

I got the hood mounted, swinging, and propped.





The trunk lid is mounted as well.



Kleiner mod (thank you Jeff)





Roll Bar:

[RickP]

And finally the windshield (don't get me started.....)







And finally my question:

I need to go back and button up a few things but I believe I am in good shape to take a stab at mounting the doors. Should I mount the front elephant ears prior to door installation? If so, do I need to ensure they are removable? I do plan to coat them with bed liner so initially they will be cleco'd in place for mock up but my concern is if the painter wants to pull the body I would hate to have him/her drilling out rivets.

[edwardb]

Should I mount the front elephant ears prior to door installation? If so, do I need to ensure they are removable? I do plan to coat them with bed liner so initially they will be cleco'd in place for mock up but my concern is if the painter wants to pull the body I would hate to have him/her drilling out rivets.

I haven't noticed they make a big difference for the door fitting. But definitely for the side pipe fitting. You do plan on doing that too before sending off to the painter, right? And yes, they need to be removable to get the body on and off.

[RickP]

I haven't noticed they make a big difference for the door fitting. But definitely for the side pipe fitting. You do plan on doing that too before sending off to the painter, right? And yes, they need to be removable to get the body on and off.

Thanks Paul. Yes, I plan on driving this car for a tad before committing to a painter so the side pipes will get fitted.

[RickP]

I need some advice on the side pipe fitment. The drivers side and subsequently passenger side are cocked slightly with the passenger side being more noticeable. My fist instinct is to jerk the motor to align the pipes but I have a issue with my 02 sensor placement. Also I fear the way the pipes need to move, I would have to open the side cutout more on the passenger side. My thought goes to the Breeze wedges/spacers.

Any advice is much appreciated.


Driver's side alignment (not bad)



Passenger side alignment (oooof)



Drivers's cutout (eh)



Passenger cut out (a little better)



The issue (rear edge of passenger)

It's not touching but I fear I would really have to open the hole up to get the pipe to clear with some breathing room.





And the sensor; again not touching but darn close. My thinking was a spacer that bumps the pipe out and angles it back towards the rear inboard side