Fresh Air Vents

[Mesa Mike]

I have my body off and want to add some fresh air vents from the brake inlets on the nose to the foot boxes via a dryer vent tube. Anybody know who offers this kit?

[Avalanche325]

Cobra Earl. I think he may have retired though.

[Gumball]

Paul Proe - not sure if he's on this site or only the other forum, though. You may also want to try **********, Breeze, and Cobra Restorers.

[Mesa Mike]

Thx

[edwardb]

Be careful what vent tube you use. Regular dryer vent tube will melt in the area of the headers. Seen it several times. There are higher temp products available.

[GoDadGo]

Spectre Performance makes 3" Ducts that are designed be used under your hood.

> You can order them online or find them at most auto parts stores.
> Add some Attwood Marine Blowers and a lot of air can get moved.
> You can even run the wires from the blowers though the ducts to hide them.
> Take a look my HEATER ALBUM or the attached YOUTUBE or the attached SPECTRE links to see if this helps:

https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

https://www.spectreperformance.com/c...ake-components

https://www.spectreperformance.com/c...?cat=C00000082

[Avalanche325]

I am not overly happy with the blast gates. My drivers side, which is pretty inaccessible where I mounted it, it getting very sticky. And the cable throw is just too long.

Has anyone used exhaust cutouts? Not cheap. But flip a switch and they work.

[PaulProe]

These are available thru ********** or Acton Custom
ff5-rt.pngff5-lt.pngVent_Set.jpg
They replicate the original design and can be installed on a Fact. Five build.

[jcjorgensen]

After getting cooked by heat during last year's Power Tour, looking at adding the same thing. Found these last night and for the price I might try them. Will advise when I get it all completed.

https://www.etrailer.com/p-T40B.html

[Yama-Bro]

Are these difficult to install after the build is complete?

[PaulProe]

Are these difficult to install after the build is complete?

Not impossible but definitely easier with the body off. The hard side is the drivers side and what else you may have installed there. Headers, Brake reservoirs, Power Brake, all stuff to get in the way, but generally can be removed to gain better access.

[benkibler]

I installed marine bilge blowers, brake vent hose from Summit, cheapo plastic blast gates, and grill intakes from **********. In the picture below you can see the black hose on either side of the car, going into the blast gate. On the passenger side you can open/close the gate from inside the footbox, but the drivers side requires you to open/close the gate from under the hood. Here in New England, I basically open them once in late spring, and close them again in early fall, and use the blower on/off switch to control the amount of air.

blowers.jpg

[mcwho]

I am in a Drivable Pre-Paint mode. I will consider fresh air vents after I have some experience driving when it gets warm here in Central FLorida. I do intend to install a heater and wonder if anyone has just routed the fresh air to the heater intake and run the blower fan with heat off for cooling.

Just a thought !

Cruise on...

[ThickCobra]

These are available thru ********** or Acton Custom
ff5-rt.pngff5-lt.pngVent_Set.jpg
They replicate the original design and can be installed on a Fact. Five build.

Paul, pm sent.

[Peeker]

Anyone try these? They have a micro switch attached so as soon as you open the gate the blower would switch on. No need for a switch.BD18724E-5508-4F7A-B121-52E554EC6E44.jpeg

[GTBradley]

Now that this thread is resurrected I'll throw in my mod. By chance I just finished writing it up on my build thread - look for it on post #473

[Fman]

I am duplicating silver_pilate design... here are the parts I ordered, exact duplication of his setup which is working great - all in for under $150.

The blast gates need be flipped around so the set screw is on the same side as the lever. It takes 5 mins to do this. This setup does require you to manually open or close the gate with your hand, not on a cable.

Blast gates
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attwood blowers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clamps
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3" hose
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201997860428

[doddmoore]

My plan has always been to install the vents and hose but no shut off door. I can't imagine in MS with me being as hot natured as I am there will be a time when I say "I wish that air was not blowing on me." How has it been in Slidell?

[boat737]

I configured my "Pull" knobs to actually close the blast gate/valves. That is, in the normal position of the knob pushed in, the valve is open. I pull it to close the valve. I have never closed it. It's always open, even in the dead of winter here in Southern California. So, yes, I could have (should have) saved myself the trouble of making and putting in the shut off valves/blast gates.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I removed the sliding blast gates which frequently got stuck & just run the openings clear in the summer & capped in the winter. Just the reverse of my heater which is open in the winter & capped in the summer.

[Desert Cobra]

I made mine using brake hose line over the shock tower, then into aluminum tube at the elephant ear, then into the front of the foot box. To close off (in AZ when would you need to do that?) you can clear tape over the front vent grill, or stuff a shop rag into the hose in the foot box. Keep it simple. Whole thing both sides cost about $50.00. Blower only helps when your standing still (in a Cobra, why would you ever do that?).

[Avalanche325]

I got rid of the plastic blast gates. I always hated how they felt when operated. Then they started to freeze up. I got cheap ebay exhaust cutouts, and took the motors off and did a little trimming. I used stainless 3" to 3" exhaust "reducers" on top. A nylon RC airplane bellcrank attaches the cable to the shaft. I also have mine set up where pushed in is open. I did some gasket material on the butterflies to stop rattles.

I replaced the plastic hose, that started to melt, with high temp brake ducting.

IMG_1302.JPG
IMG_1305.JPG
IMG_2156.JPG
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Now if I could just find some quiet fans........

[nuhale]

I bought the ones from Paul last year. Think they are now the ones available through finish line. They are pricey but come ready install & well built. Was somewhat seemless and match my vintage dash look. I was going to just run the pipe to the flanges to be installed in front cowl but recent posts and a ride with another builder pushed me over to install some bilge blowers as well. Make sure you account for doors when installing the pulls.. ask me how I know. I had to make some angled spacers to angle the pull so the door doesn't hit.

[PaulProe]

I bought the ones from Paul last year. . . .

Thanks, Bryan. I've gone ahead and opened the website for these and a number of other items Period Correct, LLC

I'm hurrying as fast as I can to finish out the additional items.

Paul

[tbl100]

Does anyone filter the air coming into these air vents? What prevents all the stuff coming off the road from getting dumped into your foot boxes? Photos are always a plus. Thanks, Tim

[nuhale]

no filter... I don't really notice a problem but I'm sure one could fabricate a filter from a HVAC or some kind of scotch-brite pad.

[Hoooper]

A filter or a screen? A screen is not a bad idea to keep rocks out, mostly to keep rocks from destroying your fans if you are using fans.

[luvaz]

If you use the front brake cooling ducts as a source of fresh air for the footboxes like I do, here's a pic of the mesh material to keep the (bigger) debris out.

HTH,
Will

[Avalanche325]

Like luvaz shows. The most common setup has mesh. Your tubes will make a 90* up just behind the intake. Then it is fairly long run to the footbox. I have never noticed any issue with dirt, rocks, or flamingos.

Do yourself a favor and use proper high temp brake duct. I had the "upgraded" Cobra Earl tubes and they melted over the header area. They we all the way up as far as they would go.

[JohnK]

Has anyone found a motorized damper that they like? I'm thinking of installing a setup similar to what others have posted here with the Attwood blowers, but I'd like to actuate the dampers with a switch rather than a pull cable. I'm running into dead ends finding a motorized damper though. Nearly every DC-powered damper I see is 24vdc for residential HVAC use. The only one I've come across so far that's small enough (3") and 12vdc is this one from Amazon, but just based on the photos I'm not terribly impressed with the all-plastic construction.

[Peeker]

I didn’t use a gate. I used a big rubber cork. 2E1736C6-ACDB-45B4-ACBD-E1950C3A9580.jpg9592A59E-75E8-4D33-BB25-8FD5157DA062.jpg

[SteveP]

I don't have blast tubes but if I did , i would use aircraft SCAT tube. It is made for the high temperature under an aircraft engine cowling and stands the heat with no problems. It is available from Aircraft Spruce in different diameters and the length of your choice. You can order on the web. If you ask for a catalog, they will send a free one that is full of good information, fastener options, raw materials, etc.

[JohnK]

Another option for the tubing that I've been looking at is high temp brake duct tubing like this.

Edit: I went and looked up SteveP's recommendation for SCAT tubing after I posted this, and it appears that it's pretty much the same stuff. Looks like a good way to go.

[tbl100]

I used this for 3" tube. I hope it can take the heat.

https://www.spectreperformance.com/8...-duct-hose-kit