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Thread: distribution block location?

  1. #1
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    distribution block location?

    where do you guys mount the distribution block?

  2. #2
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    If you're asking about an electrical distribution block I have one behind the dash and another mounted in the trunk. Real easy to troubleshoot light issues and add additional electrical circuits

  3. #3
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    for the brakes

  4. #4
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    Dismount it, you don't need it. The built-in propoortioning valve is wrong for our rear-heavy cars (vs. Nose-heavy Mustang) and the shuttle valve function only serves to by-pass the proportioning valve, so makes the entire combination valve unnecessary.

    Sean
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

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    I installed mine on the lower driver's side 3/4" tube near the f panel. Can't seem to load a pic at the moment. I questioned the need for it based on comments on this forum but Dan at FFR advised me to install it. Can't comment on its effectiveness as I am not on the road yet. I have the old style IRS if that makes a difference.

  6. #6
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Install it in the trash can.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcsracing1 View Post
    where do you guys mount the distribution block?
    I assume in asking this question you are looking for an informed opinion. Here is what Dan Golub has to say on subject:


    HI Joe,

    If using the Hydroboost power brake setup from the donor car, then
    you do need that distribution block. If using manual brakes with mustang
    Pedalbox, you will need an adjustable proportioning valve in the front
    brake line. If using the Wilwood Pedalbox, then nothing is needed.

    Thank you

    Dan Golub
    Technical Support
    Factory Five Racing

  8. #8
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joecobr View Post
    I installed mine on the lower driver's side 3/4" tube near the f panel. Can't seem to load a pic at the moment. I questioned the need for it based on comments on this forum but Dan at FFR advised me to install it. Can't comment on its effectiveness as I am not on the road yet. I have the old style IRS if that makes a difference.
    Interesting - back around 2010 when I was installing my brake system, FFR suggested the opposite - to NOT install it. My brakes use the 2000+ GT front calipers and the mid-late '90s SVT rear brakes with no power assist. Lines run directly from the master cylinder to the calipers and I have absolutely no issues with braking performance. It's a hard pedal and needs a significant push, but nothing any different from the '60s cars I've owned that have had manual brakes.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  9. #9
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    Hi Chris, I am using the hydroboost and front brakes from a 98 Mustang Cobra and the rear brakes from a 98 Lincoln Mark VIII (with IRS). In my case, Dan says I should be using the proportioning block. With manual brakes it sounds like Dan is saying you don't need the block. It will be a few months before I can relate some experience in using my setup.

  10. #10
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Joe - Makes sense... and good information to have all in one spot with this thread's title. Thanks for clarifying your set-up.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  11. #11
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    Hi Chris,

    Thanks. I could not get far in my build without this site. Once in while, if I can, I like to give back. Here's a picture of my proportioning block.

    JoeProportioning Block.jpg

  12. #12
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    OK, I'm really not trying to confuse the issue but I've been running a 1996 Mustang Cobra hydrobooster with Cobra rear brakes, 1995 GT front brakes since first go-karting in 2007. I have put on almost 20,000 trouble-free miles on my car since then with no combination shuttle/proportioning valve installed. I do understand how it works, I just don't really see what it can do for you other than perhaps saving you making a few extra brake lines? I am NOT an expert.

    Sean
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

  13. #13
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Here is what I did for most of my power distribution. You can see one distribution block next to the relay panel behind the dash. The other distribution was done at my main disconnect and starter solenoid in the engine compartment.

    Wiring.jpg

    disconnect.jpg
    Last edited by CDXXVII; 03-13-2017 at 03:31 PM.

  14. #14
    Mark Dougherty's Avatar
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    you sir are doing a stellar job
    very well done
    The traveling Builder
    717-773-5624

  15. #15
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    Very impressive electrical work!!

  16. #16
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    Mine is behind the dash as well

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