clutch pedal interference

[Dave Spencer]

just wondering if anybody knows if there is an issue with the clutch pedal not having enough room towards the top and hitting the frame
thank you

[Jdav]

With the Wilwood pedal box, yes to varying degrees.
Mine does not, but that is a recent tweak in the kit to avoid it.
If you do have interference, you can notch the pedal or do a mod on the frame rail. Plenty of opinions on which is better, so I'd suggest you do a search an d figure out the pros and cons for you.

[edwardb]

This is a long standing problem and has been discussed a lot. I'm happy to hear that apparently FF has recognized this needed to be addressed and later builds no longer are a problem. Your options, as already mentioned, are to trim the pedal arm or notch the frame. I've notched the frame on two builds, but guys way smarter than me have worked the numbers and determined the pedal arm is plenty robust to stand being trimmed. You can search and find lots of threads on this topic.

[Dave Spencer]

thanks much for the advice/opinions

[Mountain-Metalworks]

With the Wilwood pedal box, yes to varying degrees.
Mine does not, but that is a recent tweak in the kit to avoid it.
If you do have interference, you can notch the pedal or do a mod on the frame rail. Plenty of opinions on which is better, so I'd suggest you do a search an d figure out the pros and cons for you.

Is this true, did FFR really make a change? Mine is an October '16 car and I'm still trying to determine if I really need to notch the pedal or mod the frame. The pedal definitely hits during full swing, but not sure it needs that long of travel. If I put a proper pedal stop on, can I get away with the available travel? I determined to wait until the hydraulic clutch system is fully installed and bled before making any changes. If needed, I can remove the pedal from the Wilwood pedal box after-the-fact and notch it if needed. It'll suck trying to do it after installation, but I'd prefer not to make a mod that isn't actually needed. We'll see...

-TJ

[Jdav]

Is this true, did FFR really make a change? Mine is an October '16 car and I'm still trying to determine if I really need to notch the pedal or mod the frame. The pedal definitely hits during full swing, but not sure it needs that long of travel. If I put a proper pedal stop on, can I get away with the available travel? I determined to wait until the hydraulic clutch system is fully installed and bled before making any changes. If needed, I can remove the pedal from the Wilwood pedal box after-the-fact and notch it if needed. It'll suck trying to do it after installation, but I'd prefer not to make a mod that isn't actually needed. We'll see...

-TJ

Someone noted in my build thread that there was a design change June 2016. I am unsure of where they got that information. While I havent bled the clutch yet, I do not see interference in my set up (but it does come very close)

[edwardb]

Is this true, did FFR really make a change? Mine is an October '16 car and I'm still trying to determine if I really need to notch the pedal or mod the frame. The pedal definitely hits during full swing, but not sure it needs that long of travel. If I put a proper pedal stop on, can I get away with the available travel? I determined to wait until the hydraulic clutch system is fully installed and bled before making any changes. If needed, I can remove the pedal from the Wilwood pedal box after-the-fact and notch it if needed. It'll suck trying to do it after installation, but I'd prefer not to make a mod that isn't actually needed. We'll see...

-TJ

If your pedal is hitting in the usual spot, then you definitely need to clearance something to get more travel IMO. Yes, you could have a combination of master and slave cylinders to get enough movement before the interference (I guess...) but at the sacrifice of increased effort. And it's already not the lightest clutch in the world.

Would be nice to get a straight story or official statement to hear if something really has been changed on the frame, and when.

[Jdav]

Here is my clutch pedal at full extension, attached to Forte's hydraulic clutch master cylinder (wilwood 1 1/8) without any fluids . Although I do need to shorten the push rod as my pedal sits about an inach and a half too high

[PeteH]

I picked up a 289 roadster in September 16, set it up with a Wilwood hydraulic clutch master(.75"bore) and a Wilwood slave, and have no interference in pedal travel at all. I will have to look to see how close to the frame it is, but there was never interference.

[GoDadGo]

Grind the pedal arm down where it contacts the frame and you will be fine.
There is plenty of metal left and your pedal should make it all the way to the firewall once you clearance it.
Mine was fine once I cut it down to the main beam of the arm.
Yes, this drives everybody nuts so don't stress over it to much.

[Boydster]

I think F5 moved the frame. Mine doesn't hit, Wilwood box, Forte hydraulics.

[wareaglescott]

IF the pedal has full range of motion before the hydraulic clutch is hooked up then you are good to go. Hooking the master cylinder up for the clutch is not going to change the swing of the arm.

[GoDadGo]

I think F5 moved the frame. Mine doesn't hit, Wilwood box, Forte hydraulics.

Sounds Logical To Me!

The GoDadGo Chassis Number is #8,515

Delivered Late January 2015.

[Mountain-Metalworks]

I recently received my 3/4" Wilwood master from a forum member(Thanks again MCWho!) and I'm using an internal slave/throwout bearing with Wilwood pedal box. It's not installed yet but I'm hopeful that it won't need anything done based on several comments here.
I've been on the forums for ~8 years and up until recently, it was 100% assured that the pedal or frame needed a fix. If some people aren't needing it now, that tells me "something" must have changed...

Crossing fingers!

-TJ

[michael everson]

I just finished one that was picked up from FFR around August of 2016 and it needed the pedal mod.
Mike