Brake line routing?

[Jdav]

I am starting to run my brake lines, but I'm a bit concerned that I don't know what I don't know. Since the instructions dont offer much of a guide in this task, i'm just routing to the closest chassis tube. But without the engine in the car, I dont know if that will create some issues (heat, other parts, etc).
Does anyone have a schematic of a good way to do it?

I have the complete kit with a hydraulic clutch and a coyote.

[phileas_fogg]

Check out post #214 & #215 on edwardb's build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ine#post229659. He also has information on Forte's hydraulic clutch (and pretty much every other challenge you'll face).

You will not go wrong copying his work.


John

[Jdav]

Check out post #214 & #215 on edwardb's build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ine#post229659. He also has information on Forte's hydraulic clutch (and pretty much every other challenge you'll face).

You will not go wrong copying his work.


John

Thanks!
I've read through his build thread MANY times - not sure why I didn't think to go back and look at his routing. Of course it is documented perfectly!

[wareaglescott]

That is what I did as well. Word of caution if you are using the kit supplied lines you may find that two of them together are longer than you need. If memory serves me they are 60". I found that 120" was way to much and didn't know what to do with the leftovers and I didn't want to get into cutting and flaring the lines. I ended up ordering some shorter pieces for pretty cheap to supplement the long ones and it worked out great. Keep in mind for the coyote you will also need to run the return line.

[Gumball]

I installed mine before the engine was in, but the full suspension was installed. Disclaimer, I have a Mk3.1 with the three-link rear end. I did have a couple of finished cars in my area to look at during this process so that I had some idea where to avoid running the lines, though.

A few photos...

[Gumball]

Remember to leave room to provide loops for vibration isolation and to avoid things that could cause chafing of the lines - note the rubber pads in a few spots.

[CraigS]

A great duplicate for the dark green line FFR sends is available from Advance so you can make up lines as needed from shorter pieces and unions. Also to make bending super easy, switch to their NiCopp lines. The nickle copper alloy bends almost too easily and will never rust.

[JRL16]

I used the NiCopp lines on mine. Very easy to work with. I would recommend protecting them with gravel guard though. At least outside engine compartment.

[Straversi]

I used the green lines supplied by FFR. I found I couldn't follow the routing of others "exactly" if they were bending and forming their own lines. O'Rileys Auto Parts and several other chain auto parts stores sell the same lines supplied by FFR and they offer a few different lengths which come in handy. They are only about $8 per line so buy a few different lengths and give yourself some options and some extras to practice with. They also sell the tees and unions. A couple extra tees and 90s are helpful. You will find that a 60" might be too long and a 40" is too short. None will be the perfect length so you can form some loops to eat up slack. I used a couple of lines just for practice. Brake lines are challenging at first but turned out to be fun. If you stick close to the routing in the book or the threads suggested by others you wont have heat or interference problems.

Tip: Tape the fittings to the ends of the lines before you start, otherwise they will slide down while you are concentrating on your bend and you will find them on the wrong side of the curve. No going back from there. Last tip: the guys at O'Riley's don't know they sell these because they are hanging in racks in the back and they probably have not sold any since they have been employed. Ask to go back and pick them out yourself. There is also a rack for European cars with metric fittings and they can get intermixed if not careful.

IMG_2271_zps63ajt4js.jpg

IMG_2270_zpsirqeqyo5.jpg

-Steve

[Jdav]

Thanks guys. I got the front lines bent and installed, following edwardb's routing. They aren't as pretty as his, but good enough.

How are you getting nice full curls? My tube bender tool does good ones to 180, but not 360.
Straversi, is there no issue running your rear line on the inside of the tube (between the tube and foot box panel)?

Also, anyone know offhand what size screws will fit in the tapped holes on the top of the wilwood pedal box (to mount the clamps)?

[AC Bill]

How are you getting nice full curls? My tube bender tool does good ones to 180, but not 360.

I was able to do these 360's using two large sockets, spaced slightly apart while held in a vice. You need a bit of swing room for longer pieces of tube, so keep that in mind.

[phileas_fogg]

How are you getting nice full curls?

I stuck a garden rake straight down into the engine compartment, and wrapped the brake line around the handle.


John

[DadofThree]

I stuck a garden rake straight down into the engine compartment, and wrapped the brake line around the handle.
John

John, I would have loved to see a photograph of that. It's funny how many different types of items are used to build a car.

How are you getting nice full curls? My tube bender tool does good ones to 180, but not 360.

[JIMOCO]

I clamped a piece of PVC to a fence post in the yard and made my curls by wrapping around the PVC. 90-degree bends I went 1/4 of the way around. For more gradual bends I used a small tree. Moving higher or lower on the tree gave me varying radius options.

[David Hodgkins]

I documented mine as well in my 15th anniversary thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...517#post148517

I didn't have to cut and flair a single line. Each segment was a 60" line.

HTH,

[smithbks]

I will add - don't worry if you make a mistake. I went through all of the lines FFR supplied me and had to buy all new ones from NAPA. It isn't too costly and my ego wasn't too bruised. I also used clothes hanger to mock up the lines - worked ok.

I have a buddy building a Cheetah and he flared all of his lines. Guess what - he's chasing leaks now. I went with pre-bought lengths and just a couple of unions and everything is great. If you have the right (expensive) flaring tool you can do it, but otherwise I just didn't want to bother.

Good luck!

[Straversi]

How are you getting nice full curls? My tube bender tool does good ones to 180, but not 360.
Straversi, is there no issue running your rear line on the inside of the tube (between the tube and foot box panel)?

There is room but mine is slightly forward of the tube (forward meaning closer to the driver). The sheet metal come sin at an angle and pinches. I had to pull it a bit forward to make it fit without rubbing. Other side is probably better.

I used a large socket on the handle to bend loops. It was easy to hold the socket wrench handle and brake line in one hand and wind the line around the socket with the other. Don't try this with the thicker fuel lines. They will kink unless you use the tubing bene=der.

1/4-20 bolts in the bosses to mount the clamps. Add some lube. They go in snug because of the powder coat.

-Steve

[Brew211]

Sorry I'm very new to this, help me understand why you loop the brake lines and how often/location you are suppose to loop them.
Thanks,
Todd

[edwardb]

Sorry I'm very new to this, help me understand why you loop the brake lines and how often/location you are suppose to loop them.
Thanks, Todd

Some builders prefer to use pre-flared tubing lengths, so often the loops are being used to take up extra line to avoid cutting and flaring. Some will say loops provide protection against vibration. Might be the case in other applications. But in our builds everything is fixed, so IMO they aren't needed. This is discussed occasionally, and I know not everyone will agree. But I've never used them. Having said that, you don't want the tubing pulled too tight. Makes it hard to get on and off. So a little slack or curve is good.

[Brew211]

Thank you EdwardB. Makes sense to me.