818 - screwing side sails instead of riveting?

[ben1272]

I think I remember reading about someone who used riv-nuts and screws to hold on side sails rather than rivets. I'd like to use screws so that I can easily remove for dealing with brake/clutch lines and coolant line. Each has at least one fitting under the side sail and I'd hate to have to drill rivets to get body apart.

I'm sure some of you out there have pondered the same question. What do you all think? I was thinking of using the riv-nuts supplied by FFR with the flanged button screws they provide.

-Ben

[michael everson]

That's how I did all my body panels. Nothing was riveted.
Mike

[Frank818]

Nothing at all (except cockpit aluminum and front FW) was riveted. All my body panels are either rivnuted or bolts/nuts.

Riveting is to my opinion really bad, cuz you can only do it at the very end once you are sure you won't remove anything for a long time. If you do it too early, you'll find yourself riveting 15 times and of course drilling out 14 times.

Besides even at the very end, I'm sure that after a season of driving I will remove many if not all body panels to continue the build or fix things. I don't see the advantage of riveting here.

Also the wider the washers you use on the body the better. Some people have had issues that the bolts' heads were digging through the gel coat and maybe the fiberglass (Dan or Bob if I recall). Could be worse with small headed rivets. I said "could be", cuz I don't know, but it's something to think about.

[RM1SepEx]

10-32 Drill tap the holes, works perfect from the 1/8 holes and the clekos. Then use SS washer head cap screws, faster and easier, plenty of metal for the fine threads, faster and easier than riv nuts.

[ben1272]

10-32 Drill tap the holes, works perfect from the 1/8 holes and the clekos. Then use SS washer head cap screws, faster and easier, plenty of metal for the fine threads, faster and easier than riv nuts.

I'll do this first. Can always drill them larger if ever needed. Thanks for tips everyone!

[Hindsight]

I used rivnuts for nearly everything as well. I have SO many of those button head flange 1/4" bolts on my car it's not even funny. They aren't cheap either.

[svanlare]

About to start this process and decided on 10-32's with rivnuts pretty much everywhere. Frank's blog has lost of pictures :-)

[redfogo]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8C-build/page4

I have some images in my thread might help you

[Mechie3]

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet-n...d-inserts.html

That's where I buy my rivet nuts.

[Mitch Wright]

+1 10/32 tapped into the frame rail. Actually my entire body is bolted on and easily removable.

[Gheltz]

Was thinking of using 1/4 20 button flange head screws to install the body components. What length would people recommend?

[wallace18]

Was thinking of using 1/4 20 button flange head screws to install the body components. What length would people recommend?

Use 10/32 button head S/S screws with rubber backed S/S washers. No need for rivets and easy on fiberglass. I use this on all my builds. Mc Master Carr great source.

[Mitch Wright]

Mine are installed as Wallace suggest, the BIG plus is removal is easy.

[Gheltz]

Thanks. What length did you use?

[STiPWRD]

Thanks. What length did you use?

5/8" length seems to work well on the majority of the frame tubes. I used 1/4" rivnuts with SS 1/4-20 hex button head flange screws everywhere. For holding the side sails I added 1" SS fender washers.

[redfogo]

I also used 1/4 20 all over. And also went with 1".

[Speedy G]

If you use 10-32 rivnuts make sure you use the ones meant for thicker metal. From what I remember you need rivnuts with grip a of .15".