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Thread: Garage build recs

  1. #1
    Senior Member MSumners's Avatar
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    Garage build recs

    I’m in the process of planning a new workshop garage build for next year. Looking for some thoughts from those that have gone through this about what you would do again or what you would change.
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    Radiant heat and no lolly columns , Plenty of windows and lighting , Ed

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    Papa's Avatar
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    Whatever size you think you need...add 50%.
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    Went through this for my build. Here's my "think about it" list:

    BRIGHT LED strip lighting, 4000 to 5000 Kelvin. (I like 4000, but any less and it gets too "yellow" for that type of work. 5k to 6k Kelvin is bluer and more like a surgical room application.
    Electric 120-VAC outlets every 10-12 feet along walls at counter height.)
    220-VAC outlets at each wall.
    Mini-split heat pumps for AC and heat.
    Water spigots where needed
    Select the indoor ceiling height relative to the lift you intend to use. 14' to 15' will fit most taller lifts.
    Consider plumbing air lines in walls, and put outlets on each wall, and one or two outside for ease of use.
    Build a separate room/shed/lean-to/closet for your air compressor to control noise
    Use larger than normal garage doors. Something around 10 x 10 is a good to consider.
    Consider if you will ever paint in the garage. If so, you'll want an exhaust system of some sort.
    If you plan to run an engine inside the building, consider an exhaust system for that also
    Floor paint is a personal preference. But use a poly-epoxy system, and make sure the concrete is set, and properly prepared. Do this before oil stains contaminate the new concrete.
    WiFi, computer, television, cooler/refrigerator, cable, etc.
    Security lighting and flood lights outside
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    Senior Member CaptB's Avatar
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    Polyurea flooring.
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  10. #6
    Papa's Avatar
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    One more thing for you to consider. Typical concrete finish will use a joint trowel to make crack relief cuts in the slab floor. My recommendation is to specify that the relief cuts be done with a saw vs. trowel. This keeps your floor smooth for things like rolling around on a creeper without falling into a gap.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
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    Senior Member CaptB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    One more thing for you to consider. Typical concrete finish will use a joint trowel to make crack relief cuts in the slab floor. My recommendation is to specify that the relief cuts be done with a saw vs. trowel. This keeps your floor smooth for things like rolling around on a creeper without falling into a gap.
    I second that. We had cracks on a brand new garage floor that I called the engineer back in. He advised the structure was ok but the cracks needed to be addressed. I'm convinced I wouldn't have had the cracks we did if we had the stress relief channel installed when it was poured. My polyurea installer fixed all the cracks before installation of the floor.
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    Senior Member narkosys's Avatar
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    make sure the garage is properly insulated so that you can work throughout the year.

  14. #9
    Senior Member egchewy79's Avatar
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    if planning on a lift, you'll need at least a 4" slab that is level.
    I have minisplit heater/ac that allows me to use it in the winter. I never use the AC. plan on insulation as well. i'm sure MI winters are worse than OH.
    good lighting is important.

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    For the outlets, make sure there is a separate circuit breaker for each one. So tired of plugging in a second piece of equipment and blowing a breaker even though they're on different outlets.
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  18. #11
    Senior Member MSumners's Avatar
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    Some great thoughts here I wouldn’t have considered. Thanks all
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  19. #12
    Member otto halstead's Avatar
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    Have to reiterate what Papa said,"Whatever size you think you need...add 50%." or more! I built a 1500 sq ft shop, when I laid it out, my wife said it didn't look big enough! It's been 2 years and it is full, I need more space!

    I did the floor coating in my previous garage, the rustoleum epoxy stuff. It turned out good but was slick as ice when it got wet. Did my current garage with the poly coating and added the sand grit to it, still slick as ice when wet, so I left my shop bare concrete.

    When you run your airlines, use a quality piping, NOT PVC!
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  21. #13
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    Bathroom either full or half. You don't want to make the 50 yard dash and bring whatever into house

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    Bathroom and running water! i cannot get either to my shop and like Glen said, it is a paint to run to the house, kick you shoes off, do your business and go back out. LED Lighting is a must. Like Papa said, larger than you think you need. I have a 32x48 with 10' ceilings. It is attached to a 14x20 with a loft. I do woodworking as well as automotive and i am constantly rearranging trying to find more space.

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    Senior Member MSumners's Avatar
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    Any thoughts on a track or ceiling mounted hoist?
    Coupe Kit Delivered 11/10/23

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  25. #16
    Ted G's Avatar
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    Garage_Winch.jpg I installed this hoist. Cost: $220 and will hold 2,000 lbs. I'll use this to hoist up my body until ready for body work. I can also use this to pull up the chassis to a higher point.
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  27. #17
    Senior Member NiceGuyEddie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBachman View Post
    BRIGHT LED strip lighting, 4000 to 5000 Kelvin. (I like 4000, but any less and it gets too "yellow" for that type of work. 5k to 6k Kelvin is bluer and more like a surgical room application.
    Hello friend: I sometimes use my garage as a hang-out space for watching TV so I have 3000K lighting. If you want 4000K or 5000K of course that's your preference. Color rendering index (CRI) is more important, but sadly, there are no consumer-grade LEDs for the garage that are better than 80 CRI. The good news is few of us are mixing paint colors to-match in our garage spaces.

    These are still in my opinion the best bang for the buck for garage lighting:

    https://www.amazon.com/Sunco-Lightin...2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

    I recently installed a UGE exhaust fan in my garage roof and I love it. It's on a timer, so I set it for say 5 minutes and when I close the garage door and pull away the fumes don't stay inside. I used it once when spray painting inside the garage on a rainy day and it helped a lot. I'm fortunate enough to already have a vent in the wall to let air IN - my guess is it was there because I have a gas water heater in the garage.

    If I were building a garage from new, I'd get a wall-mounted garage door opener like my neighbor has. It's direct drive to the torsion bar and since it's DC is does not "jerk" the door when the opening or closing starts. Super smooth and quiet. The lowest point in my garage is the traditional garage door opener and screw track - he doesn't have either. It's also connected to his smart home so when you get 10 miles away and don't remember closing the garage door.....
    Last edited by NiceGuyEddie; 10-22-2021 at 05:02 PM.

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  29. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    For the outlets, make sure there is a separate circuit breaker for each one. So tired of plugging in a second piece of equipment and blowing a breaker even though they're on different outlets.
    Run double gang outlets with each outlet on a different circuit and simply use different colored outlets to differentiate the circuits. That way, you can plug two tools into the box, using the different plugs and not overload the circuit. Also, install the outlets at least 50-inches off the ground. That way you can still access them if you've leaned stuff against the wall.
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

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