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Thread: Breeze roll bar

  1. #1

    Breeze roll bar

    Anyone have a picture of the breeze shorter roll bar installed on a mk 4? How much work is it to install, do you have to cut differant holes in body?

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Here is the Breeze roll bar installed on the driver's side of Mk4 #7750. This is the steel version that was chrome plated after welding. Great look. How much work to install? A little tedious but not too bad. Has to be welded and best to do that in place on the chassis if possible. I tried to fixture mine and weld off the body. But welding moved it enough that it was some work getting it to fit. Uses the same holes, just have to be enlarged slightly to allow all three ends to drop through the body. Before sliding the short tube pieces up from the bottom. But a normal trim ring covers up the hole OK. One minor issue. They are a bit lower than the stock bars, which is good. It's a nice look. But if you track the car, and they are sticklers about the rules, it may not be high enough.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  3. #3
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    I bought the Stainless version, then polished. It's definitely more work, but well worth the better look. The body holes needed enlarging, as well as "moving" a bit. When enlarging, just do it in the direction needed. I too did not want to weld on the car (I worry about electronics and surges), so I mounted the unit and used a Sharpie to mark where the third leg fit against the hoop, and where the stubs go up into the vertical legs. I tacked the third leg onto the hoop, and the two vertical stubs into the bottom of the hoop, out of the car. I put it back on the car to make sure nothing moved, then removed it and final welded the two stubs into the hoop, and the third leg onto the top of the hoop. The 3rd leg did move ever so slightly after final welding, but it fits with just minor force on the 3rd leg to slide on. That's actually pretty nice because there is absolutely no rattle. I still haven't drilled the holes for the mounting studs in the frame or on the unit yet, because it will be much easier when the body comes off for painting in a few months. It's actually very sturdy and stable without the mounting bolts.

    That polished stainless really looks great. And the lower height, and the raked/leaned back verticals look much better too. Glad I did it.
    Last edited by boat737; 03-19-2017 at 09:39 PM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Bought a partially completed MK4. The Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439. The Extra Stuff: Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands, Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling and Battery mount.
    The Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    The Young and Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi

  4. #4
    Thanks, exactly the answers I needed. Going to order this week, was afraid the holes in body would have to be relocated so was trying to avoid that. Thanks Adam

  5. #5
    Also how much did you enlarge the holes if you remember?

  6. #6
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by feadam View Post
    Also how much did you enlarge the holes if you remember?
    Around 2 inches. The Breeze hoop is not perfectly vertical, it has a few-degree bend in the two vertical legs. The bends are in the same place on the two legs, but since the body bows up towards the center, the inboard hole needs to be massaged rearward about 1/2 inch or so to accomodate the raked back leg. The outboard hole needs virtually no movement, just enlarging some. The rear oval hole also needs some adjustment to the rear and outboard just slightly. It also needs to be "squared" off some on the aft part of the hole to allow the fixed (after welding) 3rd leg to drop down. Once all those are done, I used Mike Everson's ( Replicaparts.com ) roll bar trim rings, as they are larger than the FFR and cover the hole better. (BTW, used his shoulder harness and windshield trim rings too. Nice parts.)

    On all the body holes, I only used hand files (course half round, medium half round, and rat tail files.) It files very easily, so if you use power tools, go very slow. The hand files were fine, I still went very slow and a little at a time.

    If you end up welding off the car (see my post above), be sure to use the smallest tack welds possible, then re fit back into the car. Then for final welding, do only small sections at a time to minimize any movement of the 3rd leg from the heating/cooling around the welds.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Bought a partially completed MK4. The Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439. The Extra Stuff: Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands, Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling and Battery mount.
    The Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    The Young and Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi

  7. #7
    Thanks, this helps a bunch

  8. #8
    Thanks all ... I too am very close to working the roll bar.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

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