Windshield Fitting

[mcwho]

OK I see that now, They are much further forward than I thought they would be. Its kinda like a horse and cart, you need to know where they aree gonna line up before you can get them in the slots for them, and they are way too long. I have to drill out the slots on the body a bit for them to sit at that angle, that's part of what was confusing me.

I am old and have a hard time contorting to the positions I need to see under there.

Thanks !

[Dave Howard]

Darn near impossible to mount the windshield before mounting the body. And mount the body with all the sealing material in place. Then you know "That's where the body will sit". And, with the body on, you can determine how much of the windshield mounting arms to cut off. They come a little on the long side. A hacksaw and a file for the sharp edges. No customization required. NO one will ever see it. I would think twice about tapping the holes you drill into the windshield supports. NO added benefit. NO added strength. It would make starting the bolts on the drivers side a huge pain in the 'Trump'.

[edwardb]

I would think twice about tapping the holes you drill into the windshield supports. NO added benefit. NO added strength. It would make starting the bolts on the drivers side a huge pain in the 'Trump'.

I really don't care one way or the other what the OP does. I've done it both ways, and both work. But rather than just having an opinion I actually tried the tapped holes idea (read about it from other builders on the other forum) and it works very well so passed it along. The tapped holes are intended strictly as an assembly aid. Nothing more. Once you have the holes lined up, you can hand start the bolts and get them snug by hand. Slight turn with a wrench and the windshield is held in place. No chasing another bolt, two wrenches, etc. There's no issue with the DS. It's no problem to start the bolts on either side. The tapped holes easily hold the windshield in place throughout the build process and the inevitable multiple times on and off. Add the washers and lock nuts at final assembly.

[skullandbones]

I've only built one MKIII but I can tell you from the post build experience with this car that the frame screw mod is the best one I ever did. Thanks to whoever came up with it originally. I read about it a lot before initiating it. What I found was the 3/4 SAE fine hex bolt worked best. I tapped the frames after shortening both sides a little and at an angle. When you test fit the frames before assembly you can see how you will have to cut a little off. The holes in the chassis brackets were a little tight on the passenger side so I remember reaming the holes so I could start the screws with one hand. My hands don't fit well in a lot of those small spaces so my concern was will I be able to remove the screws as easily as they say. I also did a mod to make the dash fold down. That helps on the DS so much. The PS is easy without doing anything even with big hands. I did use some blue lock tight but other than that, it's screws only in the frame. I check all bolts periodically anyway so I'm not worried about them coming loose. I mentioned the post build experience. I have had the wind screen off multiple times for different reasons. I can have it off from 5 to 10 minutes (15 on an uncoordinated day). There is no worry about how hard or "impossible" it might be. In my case, it's remove the steering wheel (quick change), steering shaft forward, drop dash, and bolts out. Putting it back together requires a little more time but not much. Along with the Lucas door latch mods that keep them from falling apart after six months, this is the best mod you can do if you ever decide the wind screen needs to come off.

Good luck,

WEK.

[32J]

As an aside, anyone with "E.T." fingers can probably make a killing helping people with these cars...