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Thread: Wiring through foot box?

  1. #1
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    Wiring through foot box?

    I need to see some pictures of the wiring harness exit out the front of the drivers foot box. I have the Mk IV Anniversary. It has holes for the clutch cable, which will not be used, for that, a brake booster mount below that, which also will not be used. I also have the big hole, outboard from the clutch cable hole, probably for the reservoir to master cylinders hoses. I have some matching white covers for the not used holes. The harness has a rubber grommet, which I can match to a hole in one of the covers. Any advise or pictures appreciated. I already have the front of the foot box mounted so it is not coming off for modification. Thanks,
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    If you're using the Wilwood pedal box with the separate front/back master cylinders inside the footbox, and you have the front DS footbox cover installed with the brake booster opening, you mounted the wrong one. A brake booster opening isn't required. Also the clutch cable opening would be in the wrong place for the Wilwood pedal box, but that's not an issue if you're doing a hydraulic clutch. With the Anniversary edition and the white powder coated panels from Factory Five, several including mine had the wrong front panel coated. Looks like yours may have been one as well. If you don't want to remove it, then you have no choice but to put blocking covers over the unused holes. You may or may not have the right white blocking covers since you're trying to cover holes that weren't meant to be covered. The good news is the front of that panel is almost completely hidden once the build is finished.

    Here's a picture of mine. The upper LH hole (looking from the front) needs to be used for the front wiring harness leg. It's the best routing from inside the footbox, plus it is the most direct route to the front where the cable is just long enough. I put the three reservoir lines through the hole intended for the Wilwood clutch cable. I took the front brake line out through the top right by the 3/4 inch tube. The rear brake line I left inside the footbox until it exited at the bottom. Not visible.

    Last edited by edwardb; 04-01-2017 at 07:29 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #3
    RR20AC's Avatar
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    I had the same problem and Courtnie helped me with a cover. Sent a bare one first then a powder coated one that I could live with instead of taking to whole foot box front off and getting that replace which is what they said they would do.
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    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Jeff Miller. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys. Those 2 post return me to sanity. I will check with Courtney Monday. I might be pulling the front of the foot box off.

    DSCN3674 (2).JPG
    Last edited by Railroad; 04-03-2017 at 11:21 AM.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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