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Thread: Oil priming

  1. #1
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    Oil priming

    Hey guys,
    I've got a 427w that has been sitting for about 6 months in the crate. It was run on the dyno and then the oil was drained and it was parked in a crate.
    I am curious, how critical is oil priming? I ask because I called the engine builder (a reputable builder) and he told me to fill the engine and oil filter with oil, remove the spark plugs, put some oil in the cylinders, rotate them by hand with the plugs out. Then crank the engine over until there is oil pressure, then reinstall the plugs and start it up.
    Does this sound OK? I would like to oil prime it through the distributor but I do not really want to mess with engine timing. What are your thoughts...
    Hurricane HM-2016, 9" Ford w/3.50, 427W, TKO 600.

  2. #2
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    I'd do the plugs out and spin it technique. I came into these cars after a life of mostly imports. This was the first engine I worked on that even had the option of spinning the pump w/ a drill. Every other engine over 40 yrs or so we spun w/o the plugs.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    If the engine has been run, it's already been primed.

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    I have a flathead on an engine stand, never run. I have an old fire extinguisher bottle, plumbed for a schrader valve and line to connect to the oil pressure port. When I get around to it, I plan on adding oil, pressurizing the bottle and engine while turning the engine over. If you are really OCD and want to build or buy the same, you can plumb into the oil pressure hole on the block and do the same.
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  5. #5

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    Setting the timing is not that big of a deal. You're going to check it during engine run in anyway, so it's not that much extra work. I'd pull the distributer and run the pump. But then, I admit to being kinda OCD about that.
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  6. #6

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    I'd do the plugs out and spin it technique. I came into these cars after a life of mostly imports. This was the first engine I worked on that even had the option of spinning the pump w/ a drill. Every other engine over 40 yrs or so we spun w/o the plugs.
    It think CraigS has the best & easiest idea.
    A little oil pressure on the mains and every where else prior to start up can't hurt.

  7. #7
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    My preference is to pull the distributor and spin the oil pump. On an engine that has set for several months I pull the valve covers and spin the pump until I get good flow to the rockers. Then I know it's safe to start. For engines that you can't get the distributor out or the oil pump is driven off something else, then using the method CraigS detailed above works but you are still turning bearing journals and lifters without a hydrostatic film holding the surfaces apart until the oil gets to them. Also, if you know you're going to store an engine for several months pull the plugs and coat the cylinders with fogging oil (Google it). Rusty cylinders and rings cause accelerated wear. It's a problem with airplanes, boats, motorcycles, and other engine powered toys that set over the winter months.

  8. #8

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    Get one of these: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...mers/make/ford and prime the engine until you get oil pressure (or take a valve cover off and watch for oil flow.)

    Ray
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Mesa Mike's Avatar
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    I vote for pulling the dizzy and spinning the oil pump. Counter clockwise please, until you get a reading on the oil pressure gauge.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aarvig View Post
    Hey guys,
    I've got a 427w that has been sitting for about 6 months in the crate. It was run on the dyno and then the oil was drained and it was parked in a crate.
    I am curious, how critical is oil priming? I ask because I called the engine builder (a reputable builder) and he told me to fill the engine and oil filter with oil, remove the spark plugs, put some oil in the cylinders, rotate them by hand with the plugs out. Then crank the engine over until there is oil pressure, then reinstall the plugs and start it up.
    Does this sound OK? I would like to oil prime it through the distributor but I do not really want to mess with engine timing. What are your thoughts...
    Your engine builder guy is bang on the money. The engine has already been run so all the parts aren't "dry". You will get fresh oil to all critical areas by cranking the engine with the plugs out. No messing with removing the distributor and having to reset the timing.

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