Pilot bearing install question

[aarvig]

Hey guys! I am installing a new pilot bearing in a new Dart 427W engine so I can assemble the drivetrain. The pilot bearing is new to me...never heard of it before. (I am a kit car newbie). What is the best way to put this thing on and in what order?
Should I coat the outside of the bearing with oil...should I put the flywheel on first, then the pilot bearing?
Does the pilot bearing sit flush with the crank or does it sit a bit proud?
I appreciate the answers! Thanks guys!

[AC Bill]

The pilot bearing supports the transmission input shaft. Some pilots are a bronze bushing, others an actual needle bearing.

You can install the bearing before the flywheel, You need to make sure it is tapped in enough that it sits flush with the crank surface, it shouldn't stand proud of the crank. It could be done with a block of wood, or a section of wood doweling, and preferably a rubber mallet. If you have access to one, the bearing driver tool would be a nice asset. This helps keep the bearing centered during installation. You don't want to pound the heck out out of it, or it may be damaged, but it may take a few good taps. Just be really careful not to distort the end of the bearing case.
A very thin layer of oil will help. You don't want to get any excess behind the bearing, as it might not seat correctly otherwise, as it's not compressible.

If it seems like it doesn't even want to start, you could put it in the freezer for a few hours. This will cause it to contract ever so slightly, and can make for an easier installation.
Hope that helps.

[rich grsc]

Oiling isn't a good idea, too much and it will get slung into the clutch, ruining the clutch.

[Railroad]

I agree with AC Bill except for oiling the bearing. All the Ford crate engines I have seen, that have them installed, they are greased.
I would pack it with some syn grease and call it done.
I have used a matching size socket on an extension and tapped them in. Like AC said, you do not want to deform the bearing cage. It would probably survive something minor, but no distortion is best.

[CraigS]

I also always use a socket and extension. Pretty light taps while looking in between taps to see if it is aligned. Once it is about 1/4 in, it will pretty much self-align so it's just the first 1/4 or so where a little extra attention is needed.

[RoadRacer]

only ever built chevy, but I was told to put in dry, use the correct tool (we turned one on lathe) and tap in gently and make sure it goes in straight!

[Railroad]

only ever built chevy, but I was told to put in dry, use the correct tool (we turned one on lathe) and tap in gently and make sure it goes in straight!

Probably a bronze bushing.

[Dave Howard]

To help with the installation, place the pilot bearing/bushing in the freezer overnight. That will help it slip into the friction fit a little easier. Use a deep socket with the same outside diamter as the inside of the bearing. the socket should have a raised lip. use this to start the bearing into position then tap it in the rest of the way using a rubber mallet and a piece of wood. DO NOT use a lubricant.

[aarvig]

Alright guys! I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice.

[AC Bill]

I merely meant a light swath of oil with a finger on the outside surface, to help it slide in easier. You can put it in dry, on a nice new shiny crank, but usually there is a bit of rust in that area of the crank, and even after cleaning it up with some emery cloth, the surface is a tad rough. Metal on dry metal friction increases the chance of damaging the bearing. They are pre-packed with grease, and sealed at the factory, so you certainly don't need to lubricate them..lol