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Thread: Roadracer's #997 build

  1. #41
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    DarthTedious is being polite. The majority of the reservoir volume is unavailable to gravity feed the MCs. As soon as the fluid level drops below the level of the MC hoses, no feed will occur. You may not need a lot more, but if you want most of the volume available, the bottom of the tank needs to be raised. You have very little available to gravity feed.

    You can prove this with a plastic container, a short length of 1/4" clear plastic hose, and a 1/4" straight barb fitting used for drip sprinklers. With the hose barb in the bottom of the container and the hose pushed onto the barb, hold the end of the hose even with the top of the container and begin filling it with water. No water will come out unless the end of the hose is dropped lower than the top of the container. Then it will quit running out when the end of the hose is the same as the level in the container.

    I'm also an engineer. I hope Tony isn't. This might be a grade school science demonstration.

    http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Water-Level
    Last edited by DaveS53; 06-18-2017 at 11:59 AM.

  2. #42

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    Thanks all. Mine looks worse in picture than it really is and I can tweak the pipe to be flatter/lower. It's a little long right now
    Long
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveS53 View Post
    DarthTedious is being polite. The majority of the reservoir volume is unavailable to gravity feed the MCs. As soon as the fluid level drops below the level of the MC hoses, no feed will occur. You may not need a lot more, but if you want most of the volume available, the bottom of the tank needs to be raised. You have very little available to gravity feed.
    I understand the concept.. I'd love to move it up later once I know where I can. Here's a perfect example of the downside to stage 1, and having never seen a 33 in real life. Pictures really don't get you the dimensions or relative positioning required.

    Here's a question you can help with though.. where does the brake fluid go? Obviously there won't be leaks. It's not compressible, so how often is this level critical? Not being facetious, I am seriously curious if this will need to be part of annual maintenance, monthly or weekly?
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  4. #44

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    I made some progress on the first brake lines that FFR supplied. So far so good. Easy to bend, and I didn't have to spend too long on these first two lines. Haven't clamped yet, tie-wraps are temporary.

    brakelinetop.jpeg brakelinebulkhead.jpeg

    However.. it's a little shorter than than the manual shows. In the manual, the MC's are slightly different - the current ones need slightly longer lines. As you can see below, I'm ~4" short at the front when I try to go around the LCA. Looking at the manual, the first connection should be the other side of the second steering flange. Hmm

    shortbrakeline1.jpeg shortbrakeline.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    I understand the concept.. I'd love to move it up later once I know where I can. Here's a perfect example of the downside to stage 1, and having never seen a 33 in real life. Pictures really don't get you the dimensions or relative positioning required.

    Here's a question you can help with though.. where does the brake fluid go? Obviously there won't be leaks. It's not compressible, so how often is this level critical? Not being facetious, I am seriously curious if this will need to be part of annual maintenance, monthly or weekly?
    The brake fluid level will drop by whatever amount it takes to move the pistons in the calipers, whenever the brakes are applied. When you release the pedal, it goes back up. The total amount should never change unless there is a leak. Most car owners rarely even think of looking at the brake fluid level. It is recommended to change the fluid every few years, or if you notice the color change from light amber to a darker color.

  6. #46

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    First thing I did today was move the reservoir up 1.5" so I don't have to worry about that any more. Thanks to DaveS53 for the nudge. I reused most of the holes, but the lower grommet hole through the firewall I'll either plug or cover with a badge/FFR plate.

    movereservoir2.jpeg movereservoir1.jpeg

    FFR said there was more than enough brake line, but as I said, the route I followed from the manual ended up with mine being short by 4-6 inches. Luckily O'Reilly's sell the exact same brand of pre-made brake line in various lengths so I bought a 30" replacement for the 20" for under $5. All the brake lines are going together so well I'm glad I never bought the fancy Eastwood flaring kit - the kit lines are bending and fitting really nicely - and easily.

    Excuse the noob video - I know better than to take video upright, but I forgot in the moment. It's my first video, so don't crucify me



    I put the 3-way connector in a better place than the manual (IMO!) - it's back behind the chassis tubes and allows the lines to run tighter to chassis too. I'll support it all well, and make sure no brake line touches any chassis.

    brakeconn2.jpeg brakeconn1.jpeg

    I ran all the way to the calipers, but I do want some advice on how/where to run the braided brake line. What the best route to keep away from moving parts during steering and suspension? Not clear if the banjo's needed to be a particular orientation..

    brakehose2.jpegbrakehose1.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  7. #47
    Senior Member Barrel's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if you're going with bike fenders but if you are can I suggest that now would be a good time to trial fit the fender mounting brackets . That will help you run the braided brake lines so that they won't rub on the brackets in final assembly.

  8. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrel View Post
    I'm not sure if you're going with bike fenders but if you are can I suggest that now would be a good time to trial fit the fender mounting brackets . That will help you run the braided brake lines so that they won't rub on the brackets in final assembly.
    No probably not. I don't mind the fronts when fitted well (like tecmotions) but I've never seen rears I like
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  9. #49
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    You need to check that lines will fit the body openings, i had to move mine after doing as plans.

  10. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    You need to check that lines will fit the body openings, i had to move mine after doing as plans.
    I won't have a body for some time unfortunately. What area did you have to adjust and not follow manual? I couldn't see anything in your build thread
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  11. #51

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    Had a few hours spare, so I ground the shafts a little and trial fitted steering column, shaft and UJ's. Fitted pretty nicely, so next time I'll finesse the spacing and drill for grub screws.

    steering.jpeg steer3.jpeg steer2.jpeg steer1.jpeg

    Having completed the front brakes, I paused on the brake lines so I can look around at how to run the rear lines - I've only just realized that FFR don't supply rear flexible brake lines. I suppose this is part of the "rear end" that you have to supply. I've posted some questions on that elsewhere.. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post284666
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  12. #52

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    A few boring bits today (no pun intended) - adjusted the steering shafts to be perfectly aligned, marked with sharpie and drilled them on the press. Reassembled and cut one of the grub screws shorter for next to the firewall flange. The manual says "use the shorter one" here but I got 8 the same length. Rounded the end on the bench grinder then ran the 5/16x18 die down it to get the thread back. Installed a treat.

    numbered.jpeg drillsteering.jpeg drilledsteer.jpeg
    shortergrub.jpeg shorterinst.jpeg

    I was given some brand new stock Mustang GT brake lines and they fit nicely with my calipers in stock location, so I'll probably use them (yeah, rubber) to run to the chassis. Perfect length given that my rear here in full droop but I'll remove shocks and run through the motions anyway before finally positioning.

    flexlineupc.jpeg rearflexline.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  13. #53
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Looking good. Stay cool in this Texas heat.
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  14. #54
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    The level in the master cylinder drops over time to due to pad wear. The calipers don't return as far as pads wear, and hats why you have to pick them back in when doing brake jobs. Also why you shouldn't keep reservoir full as when you push them back, it could overflow it. On the stock style, you might have to top it off as the pads wear then suck some out when you do a brake job.
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  15. #55

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    Thanks, makes sense. I've moved it up much higher now so I should be all good.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  16. #56

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    This weekend I finished bending the brake lines - I junked the stock mustang flex lines and bought some parts from Mark at Breeze (70550 & 70085) that made a much nicer job of it. Came with brackets (which I bent 90deg because I wanted to attach to inner side) and all the fixings I needed. Great fast service from Breeze (which you all knew already I'm sure!)

    Even with the calipers in stock location at the back, it all worked well. I'll attach a brake line clip to the rear to be sure, but it's not in the way of the shock even unsupported. This was the final leg of the hard line, and I hit my goal of doing it all without cutting or flaring any line. I may add or modify bits, but I want to use as much of what FFR supplied as possible! Got my $30k budget (no paint) in mind every day

    reardrivbrake.jpeg rearpassbrake.jpeg

    I received my clutch cable adjuster so I eye-balled the spot on the firewall that lined up with the quadrant (was about 1/4" to the right of the manual's template). I used a 1 3/8" hole cutter and some Lowes machine screws with locknuts rather than the self-tappers that came with the adjuster.

    cutclutch.jpeg clutchadjfront.jpeg clutchadjrear.jpeg

    Lastly, and out of order I know, but I put all the parts on or around the fuel tank and mocked it in place. No holes drilled yet, but another box emptied! I did this because I want to run the fuel lines next so I can do all the line line brackets at once.

    tankmock.jpeg

    I also found a local guy selling a slightly warmed crate 350 with 20k miles at a great price, so I'm hoping I can get that for my "break-in" motor while I save up for a blueprint 383. Fingers crossed..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  17. #57

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    Picked up a local craigslist motor - goodwrench crate 350 with supposedly 20k miles, performer airgap intake, edelbrock/weber carb, mini starter, roller rockers.

    Turns over by hand easily, so nipping out to borrow a compression tester from autozone. It was a cheap motor, so it'll allow me to get the car running without having to save up for the blueprint 383..

    engine.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  18. #58

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    I pulled the rocker covers and oil pan off, haven't seen anything bad yet, and I have turned it over by hand to watch rockers and crank.

    oil was black, but no bits in pan or around rockers. Is it worth cutting open the oil filter? Never done that before.

    water was clean and clear with lots of antifreeze - smelled sweet and slightly oily consistency.

    I notice there are two coolant plugs in the iron heads (one each side), don't remember those before in my aluminum heads. Strangely there were no plugs in those holes... the guys said it had "run 6 weeks ago" and a crate motor with only 20k miles, but it's awfully dirty outside for that - and why would they remove those plugs? water pump had only two (loose) bolts in too. A bit odd.

    I love a mystery.

    Came with a edelbrock/weber carb that I can't track down. doesn't have a model number on, only "8867" which the interwebs isn't quite sure what it is. Hopefully at least a 600cfm so it'll go-kart me well enough.

    On the plus side, there's no obviously broken parts in here, so it'll probably run

    rollerrockers.jpeg mains2.jpeg mains1.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  19. #59

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    Solved a lot of these mysteries after talking to someone who's built more SBC than I've had hot dinners:

    - the coolant plugs in the heads confirm a later model motor, and they are open because he pulled his water temp etc from those holes (I'm used to that coming out of intake in older motors)
    - they pulled the water pump bolts because they removed the accessory brackets

    So, I think I'm good. Since there is no sludge or any telltales, there's no need to pull heads or intake. I'll button it up, paint it and throw it in. Result!

    Of course, I'm not expecting much. I probably have a pretty stock 250-290hp motor here (480 cam he says) but that'll do me for beta testing.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  20. #60
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    I'm no help with engines. But, I am looking forward to seeing it run. Once things slow down on my project, I will give you a ring. I would love to catch up and maybe chime check out a '33. Looks great so far.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
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    First start Feb 20, 2017, First Go Kart March 5, 2017, Registered & Title April 25, 2017

  21. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by srobinsonx2 View Post
    Once things slow down on my project, I will give you a ring. I would love to catch up and maybe chime check out a '33. Looks great so far.
    Slow down or you just need some time away from dust and mayhem. Plenty of cold beers and clean air over here
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  22. #62

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    Had guests here for a week, then hosted a company pool party.. and the in-laws show up this week for 3 weeks. So garage time has been minimal.. I miss it.

    In the odd moment I've been wire-brushing and degreasing the engine for some high temp paint, just to make it look a little better. Oil pan, water pump, valve covers, balancer are now gloss black, everything else (block, heads, intake) are this pontiac blue. I love this color - it's the color the stripes were on my GT40, and will be also the stripes on the '33.

    pontiac-blue.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  23. #63

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    I can't believe how cheap everyone is selling these secondhand 18" mustang wheels and tires. I haven't measured, but I assume these fit the standard kit and 2002 8.8 rear. I'm expecting to pay way more than this per corner for my final setup.. so this seems a great deal to get it on the road. On FB marketplace today there are more than a dozen of these exact sets.. I wonder why so many are selling?

    mustang wheels.jpg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  24. #64

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    Back to it after over a month away as our house has been full of visitors. I've been painting engine parts in the spare moments, and just reassembled intake manifold last week. Junk motor at least looks good now!

    intake.jpeg

    Did some more planning around the fuel system, which led to needing a fuel pump & regulator decision. I decided in the end to stick with the mechanical fuel pump (that I'd previously removed and blanked off), so I cleaned that up, painted it and put it back on the engine. I had a mini starter lying around from long ago, so fitted and shimmed that. Still works great - probably 20 years old. I mocked up the engine mounts and measured in the engine bay.. seems that the fuel pump fits there, so I hope for no surprises.

    So now I know where the fuel line will end up (no need for a regulator) I'll get those in next weekend.

    While I was waiting for paint to dry I installed the fuse panel and laid out the wiring harness with tie-wraps to see where it all goes.

    wires-temp.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  25. #65

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    Put the motor mounts on the engine in order to pull it alongside and line it up with the chassis correctly, then marked the chassis where the fuel pump is, so I can run the fuel lines to end there. Ran the fuel lines as low on the chassis as I can to keep away from heat at motor and exhaust areas. Used the 5/16" line, again managed to run it all without cutting or flaring - two standard 60" lengths. Lots of weird bends in the back piece, that was fun

    fuel line.jpeg

    fuel1.jpeg fuel2.jpg fuel3.jpeg fuel4.jpeg fuel5.jpeg

    Since I'm not using a return line the clips FFR supply are way too big, so I'm running down to Grainger to pick up some 5/16 ID clamps, and can finally clamp all the brake and fuel lines.

    Sprayed and assembled the e-brake too.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  26. #66

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    Went through tightening the brake and fuel lines then drilled and final (!) fitted all to the chassis.

    Fitted the SBC motor - now I can see why they say "shorty water pump and pulleys" in the instructions - there's a 1mm gap between the steering rack and bottom pulley. Oh well, that's unfortunate, I was hoping to use the ones that came free with motor.

    Everything else fit well, including mechanical fuel pump.

    motor-in1.jpeg motor-in2.jpeg motor-side.jpeg motor-side2.jpeg small-gap.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  27. #67
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    This is sturigus83.RoadRacer I enjoyed reading your building thread and learned a few things as well. Suprised to see your running a pontiac motor but I think its cool. Must be a 389 I had one in my old 65 GTO ran good. My self when I start mine I am taking a motor out of my old truck it still runs but is a 5.8 351 is what I am running in mine. Keep cool and have a good day.

  28. #68

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    Quote Originally Posted by sturigus83 View Post
    This is sturigus83.RoadRacer I enjoyed reading your building thread and learned a few things as well. Suprised to see your running a pontiac motor but I think its cool. Must be a 389 I had one in my old 65 GTO ran good. My self when I start mine I am taking a motor out of my old truck it still runs but is a 5.8 351 is what I am running in mine. Keep cool and have a good day.
    Thanks! It's a small block chevy 350, but I do like the pontiac blue color, which I'll also use as body stripes later. But I do love those 389's - I've owned a couple of 64 Catalina's with that motor.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  29. #69

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    The radiator needs the grill!

    Today I thought I'd take couple hours to assemble and attach the radiator, as another step towards test running my motor. Ha! The Gods are against me this afternoon.

    First, the manual says that the fan should be a "tight fit" between the welded tabs.. not so with mine. The aluminum fan mounts are 15 3/4" long, the tabs are 16" apart. Not sure whether I'll put washers in there or re-bend the fan aluminum to be longer.

    fan-mockup.jpeg quarter-inch-gap.jpeg

    But anyway.. the manual then shows how the radiator attaches to the chassis... it doesn't. The grill attaches to be chassis!

    And guess what, guys and gals, the grill doesn't come with stage 1. Oh, how I laughed

    Now I need to come up with a way to clamp the radiator to the chassis temporarily, but sturdy enough, without damaging anything. Thinking caps on.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  30. #70
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    IMG_0740.JPGIMG_0741.JPG
    Looking at the photos in post 66 showing the front pulley to steering rack and rear of the engine to the firewall it appears you have mounted that engine way farther forward than you could have. Must be a reason for that but as you can see from the attached photos, there is plenty of room in the engine bay to move it to the rear if you choose. I have a hex adapter on my lower pulley that I use to turn the engine over and a 1/2" drive deep well socket easily fits between the pulley and the steering rack, there's ~3" gap where I have the motor set.

  31. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    IMG_0740.JPGIMG_0741.JPG
    Looking at the photos in post 66 showing the front pulley to steering rack and rear of the engine to the firewall it appears you have mounted that engine way farther forward than you could have.
    Thanks NAZ. Are you using the FFR motor mounts? I don't want to assume anything with your build I just assumed it was my stock water pump (FFR specify a shorty one) PLUS my pulleys are miles off the harmonic balancer compared to yours.

    Because photos can be deceiving, here are some measurements. From rear of head to bulkhead is ~3.75", from front of head to rear of chassis tube is ~9.75"

    front-to-chassis.jpeg rear-to-bulkhead.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  32. #72
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I'm using the FFR SBC motor mounts and have a 3" gap between the right head and the firewall (of course the left will be more). Thought you were running a short water pump like mine but another look at your photos it appears you have a long pump -- my bad. If you need more room in the front you can see from my photo how much more you'll get with a short pump.

  33. #73

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    After 3 weekends working on a bathroom remodel I did get half a day in the garage. Since I'm having engine start party on Dec 3rd when friends are in town I decided to finish plumbing the fuel line. Riveted the filter in position, and ran hose, but wanted to get 90deg push-on fittings to improve routing so ordered those. Then, at the other end of the fuel by the engine.. omg. Wasted hours in local parts stores and online trying to find the right parts!

    I'm running the edelbrock carb and mechanical fuel pump that came with motor, which has 3/8 hose fitting for inlet and inverse flare for outlet. No-one carries these parts; tried o-reilly's, autozone, lowes and some other hardware store. Finally found two pieces at summit, but even they didn't carry a 5/16 flare to 3/8 hose that I needed to put a 3/8 hose on the FFR-supplied 5/16 hardline. I ended up finding it at just one place - fastenal - and they only had it in stock at 3 stores nationwide!

    overall, only $25 of parts, but man, what a time sink.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  34. #74

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    Got y new 90deg quick-disconnect fuel fittings from amazon, so finished up the rear fuel lines.

    90deg fuel.jpeg

    tie-wrapped the radiator into rough position, adjusted overflow tank, wired up fan to thermostat in inlet manifold, fitted some nasty $30 gauges from autozone so I can start the engine. sprayed my new short water pump and fitted the headers that came from summit. Surprisingly they "just fitted" without even having to lift the motor. Wasn't expecting that. Well, there might be a smidge of adjustment to the drivers side - looks like the header kisses the motor mount, but it isn't by much.

    Lots of small fiddly bits done, got fittings for carb - fuel pump - fuel line all done.

    motor-left.jpeg motor-right.jpeg

    Engine start scheduled for Sat Dec 2nd..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  35. #75
    Ol Skool
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    Looking Great!

  36. #76

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    Good day today, although probably doesn't look that different. I went through the wiring harness, and connected everything I could (left off the dash harness) - engine ground, starter, ignition switch, etc, etc.. threw in my daily's battery and turned the key - whoosh! haha, well I'm not ready to start quite yet, but it did do what I hoped - turn the motor over.

    And nothing got hot or blew so that's a bonus

    Very impressed so far with the wiring harness. plug and play.. at least for my simple carb sbc.

    Battery cable is a foot short though.. no way it'll reach where it's supposed to. Still waiting for spacers for my new water pump, and a couple connectors, but we're close to getting fluids.

    turns-over.jpeg ignition-key.jpeg battery.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  37. #77
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Good day today, although probably doesn't look that different. I went through the wiring harness, and connected everything I could (left off the dash harness) - engine ground, starter, ignition switch, etc, etc.. threw in my daily's battery and turned the key - whoosh! haha, well I'm not ready to start quite yet, but it did do what I hoped - turn the motor over.

    And nothing got hot or blew so that's a bonus

    Very impressed so far with the wiring harness. plug and play.. at least for my simple carb sbc.

    Battery cable is a foot short though.. no way it'll reach where it's supposed to. Still waiting for spacers for my new water pump, and a couple connectors, but we're close to getting fluids.

    turns-over.jpeg ignition-key.jpeg battery.jpeg
    If you don't mind me asking, which wiring harness are you using and where are you planning for your battery location?

  38. #78

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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    If you don't mind me asking, which wiring harness are you using and where are you planning for your battery location?
    Th stock harness, I don't know much about it other than it's in a Ron Francis box. As for battery location, I have so far assumed it'll be in stock location, I'd rather not lose trunk space, I plan long road trips.

    But even if I run straight from starter to stock location, it's short. Anyway, no big deal to get some battery cable - I'll probably put a jump-start terminal in the trunk and battery cutoff somewhere so I have to rework a little anyway.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  39. #79
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    RR

    I put my master disconnect behind the passenger seat near the access panel where the cable would reach. Then just bought a short cable to go from the master to the battery. I can reach the master belted in the drivers seat so I can kill the whole harness in the event I create a welder...

  40. #80

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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    RR

    I put my master disconnect behind the passenger seat near the access panel where the cable would reach. Then just bought a short cable to go from the master to the battery. I can reach the master belted in the drivers seat so I can kill the whole harness in the event I create a welder...
    Yes, I like that idea, thanks! I'll also have another run to the trunk and use something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500931/overview/

    AWW-500931_xl.jpg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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