How to buy a mustang donor rear end?

[RoadRacer]

I've been calling around the local junkyards and finally found an 02GT rear (ratio unknown, although http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...ial-gears.html says that means 3.27) that comes with brakes for $450 (another dealer offered a Mach1 04 with better 3.55 but "it may not have brakes" for $850 so I passed on that one!).

What do I look for when I go? I've never bought such a thing second hand and have no idea what to look for. What is acceptable slop when turning axles and pulling in/out?

Just curious, do all GT have limited slip? Seems like a nice plus.

BTW, I know it's a wide rear - no worries I have no wheels yet and running fenderless (and very wide wheels).

[NAZ]

The steps it takes to determine if an axle is within spec are not practical to perform in a junk yard setting. You also won't have the luxury of test driving the axle to listen for tell-tale signs like bearing noise or howling gears & clunking noises indicating excessive wear. And you're dealing with a very old axle that will likely have lots of miles on it. So better plan to completely overhaul it. If you've never done this work before get a good service manual detailing the steps, specs, and special tools required to do it right BEFORE you decide this is the route you want to take. Then research the cost of the overhaul parts & any special tools you may need to purchase and one of these Ford 8.8 axles sourced from an outfit like Moser Engineering may start to look more attractive. I've overhauled many rear ends over the years and have all the tools to set-up the gears and the bearing pre-load (and the Ford training to do it correctly) and still I sourced one built to my specs from a shop that specializes in them for my latest car project.

[RoadRacer]

and one of these Ford 8.8 axles sourced from an outfit like Moser Engineering may start to look more attractive

Thanks NAZ. No I haven't done this before, all new transaxles and IRS to date. I'm looking for a 'good enough' rear end and I always thought it's likely I'll replace it as budget allows. Especially after hearing what you're saying. When I get the built 383, I'll undoubtedly need a stronger rear, and it seems you have to buy new parts to get the 3.73 anyway..

If you think of anything, let me know, but it sounds like a coin toss what I'll end up with

[RoadRacer]

Ok, here it is.. picked it up this morning. I've been looking for ideas if what bits I need to keep/cutoff/discard, but haven't yet found a good 'using a donor rear' thread yet. The manual doesn't hint at it either. So I'll look at pics and compare. I remember someone saying we can delete backing plates, and I assume the sway bar gets deleted.. other than that not sure which parts/brackets to remove. Having just read the thread on ffcars about adding an extra support link above the 3-link banana bracket I won't grind anything off yet.

If anyone can quickly shout out how far I can strip this, it would help. Otherwise I'll get it all off and then trial assemble the 3 link and see how it goes. Should become obvious..

rear.jpegcenter.jpeglefths.jpegrighths.jpeg

[AC Bill]

You can remove the large weigh on the bottom of the pumpkin, the bracket for it etc. The upper shock, and the bracket on the axle housing used for them can go. Sure.. backing plates can go. although they don't weigh much anyway's. If you are going to install the optional brace for the 3 link, you need to leave the right side bushing eye on the pumpkin, the left one can be ground off.
The small brackets for the shocks can be removed from the lower control arm brackets. Those brackets are actually used as the lower shock attachment, if using donor control arms on the front suspension, so don't toss them out. If your not using donor arms for the front, someone else might be interested in them for their build.

[RoadRacer]

Thanks Ac Bill! I've done all that and makes sense. Appreciate the confirmation.. hopefully useful to the next guy too. I've got a photo of before/after and pile of parts that I'll post later.

[RoadRacer]

Here's the after photos.. a bare rear and all the parts I removed. ABS sensor, e-brake, backing plates, old LCA, and assoc brackets..

barerear.jpegremoved.jpeg

and here's a bonus video on how to remove the upper control arm bushing.. super simple if you know how. I did it with a hammer & chisel, but using this method. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ70xIVFanY

[RickP]

Sounds like your on the right track. I pulled mine from an 87. 9's are hard to come by so an 8.8 will do.

when you pull it out from under a 30 year old car, one has to think "what am I going to do with this?"



I decided to overall it completely by upgrading:

31 spline axles
5 lug hubs
new ford locker
OEM ford rebuild kit
3.73 gears

First thing I did was completely strip it and have the housing glass beaded, then powder coated in Kings Sport Gray to match the transmission. I took the whole deal up to a local drive shaft shop and they installed all my parts and handed it back to me. All said and done including the Trick Flow diff cover, 800 and change.





If I had room in the budget at the time I would of opted for Moser axles instead of the Summit brand ones I purchased. But even the Summit axles are much, much beefier than the OEM.

[RoadRacer]

Wow that's a nice job on that budget!

[AC Bill]

...here's a bonus video on how to remove the upper control arm bushing.. super simple if you know how. I did it with a hammer & chisel, but using this method. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ70xIVFanY

That's sure a simple, fast way of doing it.

You could also just cut the ear right off the pumpkin with a cutting disc, bushing and all..Clean it up with a grinding wheel.

[RoadRacer]

I have one remaining question - I removed this part and not sure if I need to reinstall it. It seems to be strengthening the caliper mounting? I cannot find an 8.8 diagram online that shows this piece.

extra.jpg

I assume so because I just found this upgraded 8.8 that clearly shows this part installed.

http://www.speedconcepts.net/product...oducts_id=1112

[Jeff Kleiner]

That is the anti-moan bracket. Yes, they help stabilize the caliper mount. Without them the brakes often moan (duh! hence the name "anti moan bracket" ) at low speeds and when reversing.

Jeff

[RickP]

That is the anti-moan bracket. Yes, they help stabilize the caliper mount. Without them the brakes often moan (duh! hence the name "anti moan bracket" ) at low speeds and when reversing.

Jeff

your a bucket full of knowledge JK. I was wondering why I was noticing a "moan" when I would move the car in reverse/and or forward in the garage. Learned something new today!

[RoadRacer]

That is the anti-moan bracket. Yes, they help stabilize the caliper mount. Without them the brakes often moan (duh! hence the name "anti moan bracket" ) at low speeds and when reversing.

Jeff

Thank you Jeff! That's awesome, every day there's something to learn!

[Jeff Kleiner]

your a bucket full of knowledge JK.

Really, full of knowledge? Nice that you think so 'cause others have told me I'm full of...well, you know

Jeff

[RickP]

Really, full of knowledge? Nice that you think so 'cause others have told me I'm full of...well, you know

Jeff

my wife accuses me of the same affliction quite often!

[AC Bill]

I was wondering why I was noticing a "moan" when I would move the car in reverse/and or forward in the garage. Learned something new today!

Don't have those on mine, and never had the moan issue. Just lucky I guess.

[erlihemi]

I didn't see it and maybe its already mentioned, but, depending on your State rules, make sure you have traceable receipts with numbers on major donor parts so the VIN process goes smoothly. Looks good!!

[RoadRacer]

I didn't see it and maybe its already mentioned, but, depending on your State rules, make sure you have traceable receipts with numbers on major donor parts so the VIN process goes smoothly. Looks good!!

Good point, yes. No shady craigslist cash deals here! I have a receipts folder setup with my two recipes in it - chassis and rear

[OliverRacing]

Thanks for the information. That is good info to have.
Jim

[RoadRacer]

Just to add to this old thread with my results after 5,000 miles.. yes my junker worked well for the price, but I just noticed that one of the axles is bent. I'm guessing the previous owner curbed it or worse (it was in a junkyard).

Someone at the track noticed my wheel wobbled a tad - it had 1/4" runout. Which explains why that brake kept losing its hardware and squealing all the time - the rotor was moving in and out 1/8" or so..

So, moral of the story is (and NAZ called this at the top).. be careful, check it, and plan on replacing some parts. Although, I have to say, I've had a lot of fun miles so far for cheap which was always the plan - upgrade as you go. New shafts are on their way.

[narly1]

In my case I got lucky. A guy local to me had a basically new 3.55 IRS center section with <100 miles on it. Story I got was that he bought the Mustang new before the Performance Pack option became available and so he upgraded to the Torsen rear diff straight away. It looks like new to me.

The hub carriers I bought used off of another guy along with the stub axles, calipers & rotors for $150 or so. Sold everything but the carriers for $80 as I recall. I stripped and cleaned the carriers and have bearings to put into them once I cut them down....I figured it wasn't worth taking a chance on those.