MaxJax - 2 post portable lift for FFR roadster?

[Jester]

I have been researching the various lifts for my 2 car garage and decided to go with the MaxJax portable 2 post hoist (6000lb capacity). I have limited space and limited height but need a solution that will allow flexibility and access to service all of my cars and an SUV. I will be changing my clutch and do not want to do this job onfloor jacks. I was considering a full lift but the modifications needed to my garage do not make sense given my needs. I did review the quickjack scisor lift however decided a more traditional 2 post lift would provide more flexability.

Has anyone used the MaxJax with a FFR?

Thx

[flynntuna]

Yes, http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ax-2-Post-Lift

[edwardb]

flynntuna posted my MaxJax for sale thread. I used it to finish one build and for the complete 20 Anniversary Roadster build. I was happy with it and recommend it. The difference in working on a build using a lift vs. the usual floor jacks is pretty amazing. The only reason I sold it is I now have room for a full size 2-post, which does have some advantages. But if you have limited ceiling height, like I did at my previous house, the MaxJax is a good solution. It's also good if you have limited space since the posts can be removed and rolled out of the way when you're not using them. I had mine in a 2-car garage. I mounted one against the wall and never moved it. But the one in the center I moved if I wasn't using it.

I had only one minor complaint with the MaxJax. Because the posts are separate, there is no automatic leveling mechanism between the two lift sides like a full size stationery lift. Mine would sometimes get a little out of sync, e.g. one side slightly higher/lower than the other. Sometimes an inch or two. It wasn't a big deal. Run it all the way to the top or bottom or against the stops, and it would level back out and be OK for a while again. If you read the threads on Garage Journal about this lift (there are several) this is pretty much the only complaint. Not a deal breaker. Just something to be aware of.

Also, like most 2-post lifts, the lift pads will likely not fit under the 4-inch (or sometimes lower) frame rails on the Roadster. They just miss. You can drive it up on some wood pieces. Or lift it a bit with a floor jack. What I usually did was lift it just enough with a floor jack front and back to slide vehicle dollies underneath. Then it was easy to position in exactly the right place, position the arms, and lift away. Took maybe 5-10 minutes.

[Brew211]

Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone know of a lift (with similar requirements as Jester) that does not require bolting to the floor. I have a PT slab that I don't want to gamble drilling into.

Thanks

[NAZ]

Use a four-post lift and you don't have to bolt it to the floor. In fact, you can get a caster kit and move it around the shop or even outside to use it. I've owned two BendPak four-post lifts now and have been very happy with them. I replaced the 9,000 lb one with a 14,000 lb lift and if I had room I'd have kept the smaller lift as well.

[Jester]

flynntuna posted my MaxJax for sale thread. I used it to finish one build and for the complete 20 Anniversary Roadster build. I was happy with it and recommend it. The difference in working on a build using a lift vs. the usual floor jacks is pretty amazing. The only reason I sold it is I now have room for a full size 2-post, which does have some advantages. But if you have limited ceiling height, like I did at my previous house, the MaxJax is a good solution. It's also good if you have limited space since the posts can be removed and rolled out of the way when you're not using them. I had mine in a 2-car garage. I mounted one against the wall and never moved it. But the one in the center I moved if I wasn't using it.

I had only one minor complaint with the MaxJax. Because the posts are separate, there is no automatic leveling mechanism between the two lift sides like a full size stationery lift. Mine would sometimes get a little out of sync, e.g. one side slightly higher/lower than the other. Sometimes an inch or two. It wasn't a big deal. Run it all the way to the top or bottom or against the stops, and it would level back out and be OK for a while again. If you read the threads on Garage Journal about this lift (there are several) this is pretty much the only complaint. Not a deal breaker. Just something to be aware of.

Also, like most 2-post lifts, the lift pads will likely not fit under the 4-inch (or sometimes lower) frame rails on the Roadster. They just miss. You can drive it up on some wood pieces. Or lift it a bit with a floor jack. What I usually did was lift it just enough with a floor jack front and back to slide vehicle dollies underneath. Then it was easy to position in exactly the right place, position the arms, and lift away. Took maybe 5-10 minutes.

Thanks Edwardb - you have decribed my situation (I see your lift in Flynntuna's post - NICE!) - thanks for confirming my thoughts on the MaxJax. I have placed my order - should arrive next week. I would like a full 2 post lift but with only a 9'6" ceiling my options are limited for a small 2 car garage. Thanks and Happy Easter

[flynntuna]

Remember the concrete needs to be 4-6" thick. If its not thick enough you can cut out a section of the floor and dig out a couple inches or so and repour to spec.

[edwardb]

Remember the concrete needs to be 4-6" thick. If its not thick enough you can cut out a section of the floor and dig out a couple inches or so and repour to spec.

The MaxJax instructions say "The floor on which the lift is to be installed must be 4-¼” inch minimum thickness concrete, with a minimum compressive strength of 3000 psi, and reinforced with steel bar." The MaxJax is only rated at 6,000 lbs, versus full size lifts that are much more. Plus it has nice wide bases on the posts. Unless really old, most garage floors should work OK. The thickness can be confirmed when installing the anchors.

[ThickCobra]

flynntuna posted my MaxJax for sale thread. I used it to finish one build and for the complete 20 Anniversary Roadster build. I was happy with it and recommend it. The difference in working on a build using a lift vs. the usual floor jacks is pretty amazing. The only reason I sold it is I now have room for a full size 2-post, which does have some advantages. But if you have limited ceiling height, like I did at my previous house, the MaxJax is a good solution. It's also good if you have limited space since the posts can be removed and rolled out of the way when you're not using them. I had mine in a 2-car garage. I mounted one against the wall and never moved it. But the one in the center I moved if I wasn't using it.

I had only one minor complaint with the MaxJax. Because the posts are separate, there is no automatic leveling mechanism between the two lift sides like a full size stationery lift. Mine would sometimes get a little out of sync, e.g. one side slightly higher/lower than the other. Sometimes an inch or two. It wasn't a big deal. Run it all the way to the top or bottom or against the stops, and it would level back out and be OK for a while again. If you read the threads on Garage Journal about this lift (there are several) this is pretty much the only complaint. Not a deal breaker. Just something to be aware of.

Also, like most 2-post lifts, the lift pads will likely not fit under the 4-inch (or sometimes lower) frame rails on the Roadster. They just miss. You can drive it up on some wood pieces. Or lift it a bit with a floor jack. What I usually did was lift it just enough with a floor jack front and back to slide vehicle dollies underneath. Then it was easy to position in exactly the right place, position the arms, and lift away. Took maybe 5-10 minutes.

Curious which full 2 post lift you've researched and going with.

Jay

[edwardb]

Curious which full 2 post lift you've researched and going with.

Jay

BendPak XPR-10S-LP is my leading candidate right now. Has what I'm looking for. Adjustable and slightly narrower width, low profile arms, top beam with clear floor. But haven't pulled the trigger yet and still looking to make sure that's my best choice. I'm in the process of getting the garage ready. Took down the traditional openers and installed Liftmaster 8500 wall mount openers (love those) but still more to do. Too many projects...

[Jester]

Flynntuna / edwardb - thanks - My floor should be fine and will confirm when drilling the anchor holes. Should arrive next week. I like what I have reviewed on the Maxjax. Should make changing the trans much easier. I pulled the trans once while on jack stands when building the car several years back. Time does not make these jobs easier but a 2 post hoist will. Thx

[flynntuna]

I only mentioned it because my garage only has 3 1/2"- 4" thickness. I was also looking into a maxjax, I may still get one, just wondering if I can weld on a larger base to spread the load to a larger area rather than redo the concrete.

[Brew211]

Has anyone ever used an auto rotisserie or auto twirler prior to engine?
From the videos I've seen they look like it would be so much easier.

Thoughts from the pros?

[NAZ]

I use a rotisserie and it makes it easier to access areas for welding and painting. Not sure how much this would help a typical builder outside of painting the chassis. It's not as convenient as a lift as it is cumbersome to hook up so you won't use it for small simple jobs. I also use a four-post lift and that my friends is one of the handiest pieces of equipment in my shop. I don't worry about concrete thickness, I don't have to anchor it to the floor (you can use casters and roll it into the driveway to use it if vertically challenged for ceiling height), I have clear space under the lift, and I use it as a stacker so I can park an extra vehicle in the shop. I've owned two BendPak four-post lifts now over the last 10 years and they work great -- not a single problem with either. Can't ever imagine not having a lift after a decade of using one at home.

[Brew211]

Thank you Naz that is great advice.
Another question, at what stage would you recommend a 4-post (I can't do a 2-post due to my PT slab), delivery day #1? Not having used one, it appears that the deck rails would get in the way of the initial assembly even if you bottle-jack it. Thoughts?

[NAZ]

Brew, don't wait on the lift as you'll use it for a variety of projects beyond your FFR build. And you'll use it for more than lifting vehicles. Just to give you some ideas -- mine acts as an overhead crane, a workbench, and welding table at times. When I built the aluminum flatbed for my F550 I used the lift to hoist the bed high enough to back the truck under it when I went to mount the bed to the truck. As soon as you have the funds pull the trigger and get it set-up as soon as it arrives. If you're going with one of the 7,000 or 9,000 lb lifts I recommend you not anchor it to the floor and purchase a caster kit with the lift. There are a variety of "attachments" you can purchase for the four-post lifts such as scissor jacks that will come in handy. Or you can build a strong back to bridge across the ramps and use bottle jacks. I use my lift nearly every day and usually several times a day. When I lift it to the highest point I still have lots of floor space to work in so it just does not get in the way ever. And if you have the caster kit and it does get in the way, simply roll it so it's not in your way. Once you have one you'll wonder how you got along without it for so long. Even my wife comments on how handy the lift is as every time she visits the shop it's in use.

[boBQuincy]

Brew, don't wait on the lift as you'll use it for a variety of projects beyond your FFR build. And you'll use it for more than lifting vehicles.

+1 on that! I use our 4-post lift(s) a lot and would not even think about starting a FF build without one.

[CraigS]

Don't forget scissor lifts.
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Sh...-Scissor-Lifts
These are my leading candidate. After 25 years as a Lexus tech, having to occasionally do regular maintenance work on the alignment lift, I have NO interest in a 4 post. Working around those things was like some kind of punishment.

[JBMorrison]

I have the same 9-foot ceiling issue too; bought the new MX-6 from MaxxJaack a few weeks ago. Have not had the opportunity to set it up yet.

John Morrison

[edwardb]

I have the same 9-foot ceiling issue too; bought the new MX-6 from MaxxJaack a few weeks ago. Have not had the opportunity to set it up yet.

John Morrison

Some nice improvements there. The automatic locking positions is more like full size lifts vs. the pretty basic holes and lock rod used on the one I had. Looks like maybe they made some changes to the lift mechanism as well. Will be interesting to see if this means the two sides stay in sync a little better. That was my only real negative with using the lift. Good luck with it.

[NAZ]

Craig, I have to disagree with your generalized assessment of four-post lifts. The four-post lift like BendPak sells is no bulky alignment rack. Having worked as a tech at a large Ford dealership I too have had a chance to use a variety of lifts including large truck lifts when I worked in the truck department and even the alignment rack you disliked so much (rightfully so BTW). The BendPak four-post lift is the most versatile and easiest to use lift I've had the pleasure to work with. I've been using one for the last 10-years and mine have been trouble free. You just can't get easier to use: simply drive on, set the parking brake, and push one button to lift your car. Release the button when it's at the height you want. No getting on your knees to position the arms on a two-post lift. Wide open clear space under the car with no scissor mechanism in your way. Can you use a trans jack on a scissor lift? A variety of lifting tools /attachments are available to help with major servicing of large heavy elements. Of course everyone has their personal preferences.

[Brew211]

All great information, thank you so much