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Thread: Best Location for the Heater Switch? FFR Positive cable ?

  1. #1

    Best Location for the Heater Switch? FFR Positive cable ?

    I am using the standard issue heater from FFR and realizing everyone has their own personal tastes ...based on either what you did right or wrong...where is the best location to mount the heater switch? I am thinking the cable needs to be somewhat close and in line with the heater hoses outside the heater box...

    Also, should there be any concern that the FFR issued positive cable (for a rear mounted battery) is adequate gauge?

    thanks in advance
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  2. #2
    I have a under dash panel so I mounted mine there. My heater hoses run down the firewall to the main frame rails and then forward for a cleaner look. I mounted the heater valve vertical just below the heater inlet so the cable makes a 180 degree bend from under dash panel, through the firewall (use a rubber grommet here) and to the heater control. You have to take a few measurements to get the pass through hole and under dash panel hole in the right place for the cable to line up with the heater control valve. It works great, it is out of sight and the cable pulls smooth -- Chuck

  3. #3
    Pictures?

  4. #4
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Mine is mounted on the dash - middle of the three round black knobs towards the glove box along the bottom of the panel. I replaced the FFR knob with an original style Lucas knob, though, and as luck would have it the markings matched the operation of the three speed switch that FFR included in the kit.



    My heater is mounted in the place FFR recommends and there is no issue with the cable turning ninety degrees to get to the valve, which is visible to the far left in this photo...

    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  5. #5
    I like that, you can keep your glove box that way. That is a clean looking dash, one of my favorites so far.

  6. #6




    Looks like I need to get out the damp rag, time for spring clean-up. Chuck

  7. #7
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Also you can skip the cable and/or valve if you want. I have a valve and intended to connect a cable but never did. This is a lot different than a daily driver where I expect to have very fine control of the temp. In the FFR, when I need heat I need all of it. I have done fine since 2007 w/ just the two speed fan as my temp control.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  8. #8
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    You don't need to have the cable kept straight to the control valve. As long as any turns of the control cable are not to tight, it will work fine. A little lube wouldn't hurt. I have my heater control knob the furthest to the right, of all the switches.

    I have had no issue with the FFR provided 4 Ga. positive cable, with a trunk mounted battery, and a Torque-master mini starter. Some builders have opted to go with a 2 Gauge positive cable, as there starters spin to slow. I believe the hi torque mini starters won't have that issue. Regardless of what you use, you need to make sure the starter is very well grounded. An added ground strap from it to the frame, is a good idea.
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    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  9. #9
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumball View Post
    Mine is mounted on the dash - middle of the three round black knobs towards the glove box along the bottom of the panel. I replaced the FFR knob with an original style Lucas knob, though, and as luck would have it the markings matched the operation of the three speed switch that FFR included in the kit.

    Chris, those knobs do look great ! The one provided with the heater really sucks..lol
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

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