Braided Stainless hose

[gooch]

I would like to change the hose to the remote oil filter to Stainless braided with red/blue hose ends. As well, I would like to do the coolant lines
The motor is a 302
Anyone have any experience with this? The black rubber lines with hose clamps looks like ****

Let me know what you guys got. Include as many pics as possible

[RoadRacer]

I used all braided on last motor.. all bought from summit. I went 'store-brand' rather than aeroquip. You'll want to buy some special tools to work with the hose - anodized aluminum wrenches and vice jaw protectors so you don't damage your fittings. You can buy lengths of hose and wrap with tape before cutting, then add the fittings. No need to buy pre-made pieces.

[gooch]

I used all braided on last motor.. all bought from summit. I went 'store-brand' rather than aeroquip. You'll want to buy some special tools to work with the hose - anodized aluminum wrenches and vice jaw protectors so you don't damage your fittings. You can buy lengths of hose and wrap with tape before cutting, then add the fittings. No need to buy pre-made pieces.

What an size did you use for the remote oil line? What an size did you use for the Coolant?
did you use the blue/red fittings?

Any pics?

[GFX2043mtu]

For oil lines DO NOT go any small than -10 an. Any smaller and you can run the risk of the pressure losses in the hoses being to great. Thus you can loose pressure at higher flow rates (RPM's). For the coolant lines I would honestly say get the hard lines from Breeze. They fit great, look great and it will be much easier to install. If you are dead set on AN lines then Run at least a -20 with a -24 being more preferred from a flow rate if you plan to push the car for any length of time.

[cnutting]

I went with braided for everything as well, but went mostly with black fittings and braid. The stainless braid is for the oil cooler, but that came with the kit. Got it all from Summit as Road Racer mentioned. Oil lines are -10, I also used the Breeze coolant solution as GFX suggested.

[RoadRacer]

Mine was a dry-sumped 383 sbc not not your normal motor for these.. I've given up trying to fit a dry sump in the 33

I had a huge oil tank and was moving a lot of oil around but don't remember what size lines I was using. Iirc it was -10 for oil but I had dual filters and lines.. and -8 for fuel. I ran hardline whenever I could though - the full length of car for fuel was hardline then braided at the ends

[NAZ]

AN dash numbers are equal to 1/16". Therefore, a -10 is equal in size to ten sixteenths of an inch or ⅝". By using this info you can easily find the appropriate AN size to replace an imperial size hose or pipe. Let's say you want to determine what size AN hose to replace a 1 ½" radiator hose. How many 1/16th inches are in 1 ½"? That's right a -24AN hose is the same inside diameter as a 1 1//2" hose. If you really want to replace a radiator hose with AN hose and fittings you will pay many times more for the AN parts than what a common radiator hose & clamps will cost. And working with that size AN hose is a bear. Also working with any size smaller than -4 starts getting difficult.

[Straversi]

My fuel lines are hard line with -6AN fittings and braided stainless at the ends. Make sure you get Teflon lined hose for fuel. They last longer and fuel vapors do not pass through them (garage, trunk, blanket or jacket stored in truck wont stink).

The fittings are different for Teflon lined hose and more expensive but worth it.

Power steering hoses also have more expensive fittings and the hoses should be Teflon lined as well.

Oil cooler lines are -10. Braided rubber hose is fine, no Teflon required.

Coolant lines can be tricky. I have a Coyote so I have different routing than your SBF 302.

Heater hoses are -10 with stainless braided rubber, no Teflon. If you are thinking of doing the radiator hose you will need to get hose barb ends cut off your radiator and AN fittings welded on. Super expensive fittings. That diameter of braided stainless is also very rigid. Hard to plumb so you will definitely want to see photos of someone who has done it so you can plan your routing.

All that being said, I'm a rookie at hoses too but I just went through it. I only know what the guy behind the counter at Ear's Performance told me so if I'm miss speaking please correct me. I asked a lot of questions. Bugged the heck out of those guys.

General stuff. AN stands for Army/Navy. The military wanted flexible connections for their high pressure lines and they wanted them to be non-compatible with other off the shelf lower pressure systems. That is why you can't swap back and forth between systems. -6 mean 6/16th, -10 means 10/16th, -16 means 16/16th" They are referring to the inside diameter of the hard line they are connecting to, not the inner or outer diameter of the hose. I kept asking the guys about hose size so they new I was a newbie.

Since there are many types of fittings and hoses out there, I'm sure there as many opinions but most will agree, the stuff looks great!

-Steve

[Boydster]

I've built a lot of hoses and all the info you're getting is great. I strongly suggest one tool for the novice building stainless lines... Koul Tool

This channels the stainless braid into the AN fitting if it has frayed out at all (which it usually does despite the tape and precautions). Makes putting it all together a breeze.