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Thread: LED Light & Signal Bulbs

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    Senior Member karlos's Avatar
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    LED Light & Signal Bulbs

    Web search turns up lots of info but most of it conflicting and not really recent. Is there a consensus on whether LED bulbs for the front and rear lights/signals is worthwhile as compared to the standard incandescent bulbs? From what I can tell it seems you need to color-match the LED with the color of the lens, and that a lot of folks run LEDs only in the rear as a way to retain functionality of the standard flasher units. Sound about right?

    Watson's Streetworks has some 4 LED units that are a direct replacement for the 1157 bulbs. Anybody have experience with these? Front, rear, or both?

    Thanks.

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    I bought all of mine from SuperBright LEDs. Yes they have direct replacement 1157 bulbs, and yes use the same color LED1157 as the lens (red inside red, amber inside amber) I didn't believe it in the beginning, but once on the car, sure enough, they work perfectly. As for the flasher, just get an electronic one (well, two, for the turn signals and hazards.) Some have a separate ground wire ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that's what I used) and some don't. I also used one that has an adjustable flash rate, which is sort of neat. ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You need to run a separate ground wire to it, I don't have a picture.)
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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Have the rear set on mine all 4 lights. Did not do the front ones so I don't need any resistors.
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    Although I've yet to convert the Roadster with LED bulbs, I have converted most of my other cars to LED bulbs wherever possible. They are much brighter and in the case of some of my older cars with faded out plastic lenses, having additional lighting output is just downright safe, with special emphasis on the brake/turn signal functions. I've also converted the dash and gauge bulbs. The downside is they're not dimmable.

    Some bulb functions use a reverse flow, like some mid 60's Chevy cars that applied the 12 V + on the ground side. Since LED bulbs are diodes, they won't light up on reverse polarity so the Chevy trouble lights Have to remain incandescent.

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    I converted the brake/signal lights to LED a couple of years ago. I used this bulb in all four rear sockets: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jam-Strait-R...-/262947438412
    Jamstrait has gone out of business, but you may be able to snag some from inventory somewhere. O'Reilly's was the last store where I found them.

    These bulbs fit the 1157 socket and are much brighter viewed from the rear. Other bulbs emit light to the sides, not where you want it while the Jamstrait bulbs are designed to project all light to the rear. And my turn signals function without having to install a resister. I put some amber LEDs on the front, then the turn signals didn't function. Besides, they were a bit too bright for oncoming traffic, so I put the incandescent bulbs back in.

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    Blue Oval Scribe Mustang Man's Avatar
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    I have LED bulbs front and rear, LED under dash lighting, and LED backlit AutoMeter gauges. LED lighting is much brighter/crisper light.

    The bulbs were from Mustang Project (they make a lot of LED bulbs for classic Mustangs). The only bulbs not LED (yet!) are my headlights...

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I have the Watson's Streetworks 1157 LED's in my new build front and back. Plus their LED headlights but that's not what you're asking about. They work well and seem very bright. When I was installing them, I put the LED's in one side and temporarily left the incandescents in the other side for a side-by-side comparison. I wouldn't say the difference was night and day once they were lit, although the LED's maybe seemed somewhat brighter and more intense. Where I noticed the difference the most was when they were flashing e.g. turn signals, hazards, brake. LED's go to full intensity almost instantly. Incandescents ramp up a bit slower. The result is the LED's definitely look brighter for turn signals, etc. At least to my eye. I also bought the Watson's Streetworks solid state flashers. Two needed for the RF panel. One for turn signals, the other for the hazards. They work fine and is a more efficient solution than adding resistors. They are totally silent though. No clicking sound. Not that it matters.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-26-2017 at 08:11 AM.
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    Senior Member karlos's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the responses. Lots of choices out there with a wide range of pricetags, up to about $25 per bulb. $25 X 6 plus a couple flashers is starting to run into some $$. Struggling with the value of the lower end offerings as it seems they're not any brighter than the incandescents. Still get the benefit of lower power draw and longer life, I suppose.


    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I have the Watson's Streetworks 1157 LED's in my new build front and back. Plus their LED headlights but that's not what you're asking about. They work well and seem very bright. When I was installing them, I put the LED's in one side and temporarily left the incandescents in the other side for a side-by-side comparison. I wouldn't say the difference was night and day once they were lit, although the LED's maybe seemed somewhat brighter and more intense. Where I noticed the difference the most was when they were flashing e.g. turn signals, hazards, brake. LED's go to full intensity almost instantly. Incandescents ramp up a bit slower. The result is the LED's definitely look brighter for turn signals, etc. At least to my eye. I also bought the Watson's Streetworks solid state flashers. Two needed for the RF panel. One for turn signals, the other for the hazards. They work fine and is a more efficient solution than adding resistors. They are totally silent though. No clicking sound. Not that it matters.

    Thanks for your comments on the Watson's stuff. Pretty pricey, but if like the LED headlights then should be good quality. I went with their headlights as well, and mounted the drivers to the back of the headlight bucket like you did. Picture should look familiar. An interesting aside: the drivers I received did not have a connector to allow the wires to pass through the side of the headlight bucket. Not sure when they made that change, but the end result is the need to cut the cable and reconnect the wires on the inside of the bucket. Was unpleasantly surprised to find six *very* small 26 gauge wires once the cut was made. Stripping and soldering wires as fine as frog hair was a fun adventure.


    Last edited by karlos; 04-26-2017 at 11:16 PM.

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with the new(er) Watson's Streetworks LED headlights. Instead of cutting the wire (which scared me enough to not do it), I put a hole and a "slot" in the bucket in which to insert the main plug and driver, and slide the wire into a grommet hole. A dab of silicone closed up the slot in the bucket. It certainly would have been easier with the older style connector in the loom.
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I have the Watson's Streetworks 1157 LED's in my new build front and back. Plus their LED headlights but that's not what you're asking about. They work well and seem very bright. When I was installing them, I put the LED's in one side and temporarily left the incandescents in the other side for a side-by-side comparison. I wouldn't say the difference was night and day once they were lit, although the LED's maybe seemed somewhat brighter and more intense. Where I noticed the difference the most was when they were flashing e.g. turn signals, hazards, brake. LED's go to full intensity almost instantly. Incandescents ramp up a bit slower. The result is the LED's definitely look brighter for turn signals, etc. At least to my eye. I also bought the Watson's Streetworks solid state flashers. Two needed for the RF panel. One for turn signals, the other for the hazards. They work fine and is a more efficient solution than adding resistors. They are totally silent though. No clicking sound. Not that it matters.
    Paul,

    You mentioned toward the end of your comment that you also purchased StreetWorks solid state flashers, which is more efficient than adding resistors. I hope I'm understanding this correctly, but does this mean adding the diodes, per the diagram would not have been necessary? Again, I hope I'm not mixing things up here.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThickCobra View Post
    Paul, You mentioned toward the end of your comment that you also purchased StreetWorks solid state flashers, which is more efficient than adding resistors. I hope I'm understanding this correctly, but does this mean adding the diodes, per the diagram would not have been necessary? Again, I hope I'm not mixing things up here.
    Two different issues. Due to the reduced current draw of LED bulbs, the traditional flashers usually won't function. Their operation is based on current heating a metal strip causing the circuit to flash. In the past, one of the solutions was to add a resistor to the lighting circuit. This duplicated the current draw of the regular bulbs causing the traditional flashers to still work. But that solution also negates the low current draw advantage of LED lights. Not a big deal for automotive, to be honest, but still maybe not the best choice since there are now solid state flashers that replace the traditional flashers and work directly with the low current draw of LED bulbs.

    The diodes in the turn signal circuit are a separate issue. They are to prevent backfeeding of the current typically between the turn signal and hazard circuits since they share some of the same wiring. The indicator lights are often the cause. The diodes only allow current flow in one direction and keep everything working properly.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karlos View Post
    Thanks for your comments on the Watson's stuff. Pretty pricey, but if like the LED headlights then should be good quality. I went with their headlights as well, and mounted the drivers to the back of the headlight bucket like you did. Picture should look familiar. An interesting aside: the drivers I received did not have a connector to allow the wires to pass through the side of the headlight bucket. Not sure when they made that change, but the end result is the need to cut the cable and reconnect the wires on the inside of the bucket. Was unpleasantly surprised to find six *very* small 26 gauge wires once the cut was made. Stripping and soldering wires as fine as frog hair was a fun adventure.
    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    I had the same problem with the new(er) Watson's Streetworks LED headlights. Instead of cutting the wire (which scared me enough to not do it), I put a hole and a "slot" in the bucket in which to insert the main plug and driver, and slide the wire into a grommet hole. A dab of silicone closed up the slot in the bucket. It certainly would have been easier with the older style connector in the loom.
    I too modified the bucket to allow the connector to pass through. Enlarged it just enough, then used a different grommet that sealed it back up. Visible in this picture. Good to use grommets, silicone, etc. to keep the wires from chafing and reasonable sealing. But those buckets are hardly waterproof. The way the headlight and trim ring fit around the front, they're not sealed. What's inside needs to be able to handle moisture as well. I agree those wires are not very friendly to work with. On a side note, took a short drive last night with the new build specifically after dark to test the new headlights. Two big thumbs up. Nice and bright and a huge improvement over the stock halogens. Very happy I made this change and I think you guys will be too.

    Last edited by edwardb; 04-27-2017 at 06:49 AM.
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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    LED'S appear to be a bunch of $$$ for minimum return other than being able to say at the car show "Yeah, and I've installed LED lights". I would imagine most folks are putting a few hundred miles on a year, maybe a thousand depending where the car comes off the trailer. So chances are there aren't too many miles in the dark. I think I'll stay with the old style bulbs that came with the P700s.

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    Does anyone know where to buy smoked or clear turn signal and taillight covers, and what size or style to order?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    LED'S appear to be a bunch of $$$ for minimum return other than being able to say at the car show "Yeah, and I've installed LED lights". I would imagine most folks are putting a few hundred miles on a year, maybe a thousand depending where the car comes off the trailer. So chances are there aren't too many miles in the dark. I think I'll stay with the old style bulbs that came with the P700s.
    Dave, I agree the LED bulbs are a bit more expansive. But my Jamstrait bulbs are a lot brighter than the old 1157 bulbs. I rarely drive at night, but showing bright stoplights during daylight is a safety issue. The old 1157s are a throwback to the 1950s when that was about the only bulb out there and they weren't very bright, especially during daylight. Today, ALL cars have LED tail/signal/brake lights and I think you'd agree they are much brighter.

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    Senior Member bobm488's Avatar
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    If I understand the above correctly, if I want LED’s just in the back I just replace the rear bulbs with LED 1157R's and don’t need to change the flashing unit.

  18. #17
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobm488 View Post
    If I understand the above correctly, if I want LED’s just in the back I just replace the rear bulbs with LED 1157R's and don’t need to change the flashing unit.
    That would be true. But FYI changing the two thermal style flashers to solid state is about a $20 bill and an unplug/plug changeover. Beside drawing less current and being more reliable, they're also sealed. They don't get waterlogged and stop working. Not that I would know anything about that.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue MK3 View Post
    Dave, I agree the LED bulbs are a bit more expansive. But my Jamstrait bulbs are a lot brighter than the old 1157 bulbs. I rarely drive at night, but showing bright stoplights during daylight is a safety issue. The old 1157s are a throwback to the 1950s when that was about the only bulb out there and they weren't very bright, especially during daylight. Today, ALL cars have LED tail/signal/brake lights and I think you'd agree they are much brighter.
    I also have the Streetworks headlights and running brake, running, emergency flash and signal LED bulbs which I bought separately. I also have two LED type flashers. With the lower temperature operation I am now running high beam headlights whenever driving, mostly during day. I figure that bright lights front and back give added safety as suggested by Blue Mk3.
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    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    LED'S appear to be a bunch of $$$ for minimum return other than being able to say at the car show "Yeah, and I've installed LED lights". I would imagine most folks are putting a few hundred miles on a year, maybe a thousand depending where the car comes off the trailer. So chances are there aren't too many miles in the dark. I think I'll stay with the old style bulbs that came with the P700s.
    You go ahead and believe standard bulbs are good enough, they are at night. It's during the day, when the much brighter LED turn and brake lights make the difference.

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    The LEDs offer another advantage that wasn't mentioned yet (that I saw.) They are faster and have full brightness immediately whereas the incandescent filament type take about 0.1 seconds to get bright. The immediate brightness is also more visable/attention getting. At 60-70 miles an hour, that 0.1 seconds gives the guy behind you another 80 to 100 feet to stop.
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    Sylvania 1157R for the rear. Std Lucas red covers
    GLL 1157 BAY15D 5730 20 SMD Amber/White Switchback Turn Signal LED Light Bulbs 3.8W 12V LED for the front. Clear Lucas covers from E-Bay-UK

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBachman View Post
    The LEDs offer another advantage that wasn't mentioned yet (that I saw.) They are faster and have full brightness immediately whereas the incandescent filament type take about 0.1 seconds to get bright. The immediate brightness is also more visable/attention getting. At 60-70 miles an hour, that 0.1 seconds gives the guy behind you another 80 to 100 feet to stop.
    Mentioned this aspect in post #7. You're right. When compared side-by-side, the instant ramp-up of LED's is quite noticeable. That plus the lower current draw and long lifespan make them a no-brainer IMO.
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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    FWIW. Don't know if this applied in all cases. Standard RF wiring harness. Installed LEDS is all 4 tail lights without resistors or changes to the fuse panel. Key was retaining the standard filament bulbs in the front turn signal.

    Have been running the LEDS for a number of years, very happy with the change.
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    Anybody found an LED lamp for the standard license plate fixture? That and my gauges are the only things I haven’t converted.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptstew View Post
    Anybody found an LED lamp for the standard license plate fixture? That and my gauges are the only things I haven’t converted.
    Several of us have used these https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ate-bolt/1685/ in warm white. Shown in this post in my #8674 build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post236455. Works well. Used the same bulbs in my Coupe build for the same thing. But it's a different fixture.
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    Senior Member karlos's Avatar
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    Funny how a 3-year old post will spring back to life. I never updated the thread with what I eventually settled on; the graphic below should accomplish that. The original incandescent bulbs are shown next to their LED replacements. The correct flasher is also shown. There are two similar flashers available that look identical but which have reversed pin-outs. One will work, the other won't. Yes, I got the wrong one initially. These are all available at the same website Paul mentions above (superbrightleds.com).

    The stud-mount license plate bulb is a good option. For those not wanting to replace the fixture there is a direct replacement bulb available (the BA9s shown in the upper right).




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    Quote Originally Posted by karlos View Post
    Funny how a 3-year old post will spring back to life. I never updated the thread with what I eventually settled on; the graphic below should accomplish that. The original incandescent bulbs are shown next to their LED replacements. The correct flasher is also shown. There are two similar flashers available that look identical but which have reversed pin-outs. One will work, the other won't. Yes, I got the wrong one initially. These are all available at the same website Paul mentions above (superbrightleds.com).

    The stud-mount license plate bulb is a good option. For those not wanting to replace the fixture there is a direct replacement bulb available (the BA9s shown in the upper right).




    Thanks so much. The BA9s are just what I need. Have two on the way.
    Last edited by ptstew; 03-13-2020 at 09:54 PM.
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