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Thread: Srobinsonx2 Bodywork

  1. #161

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    Ok ! Turn your poster board over and do it again.....wax on , wax off....paint dee fence....sand dee floor. practice, practice. Shooting blue over white gives you an idea of coverage. Give that one 2 more coats and see if you still have streaks. You are playing with your gun settings and that is a good thing (LEARN YOUR GUN ) Gonna let you in on a little secret shh (when you start painting your car,,,,and if it's not going well,,,,you are gonna start messing with yur gun adjustments) nothing good can come from that. THE TRICK ! is to find a setting on your gun that seems to work and leave it alone. Correct the problems with "your" technique. In a nut shell... TAKE THIS RACE CAR AND GIVE ME 15 LAPS. IT'S A GOOD CAR WITH A GOOD SET UP,,,,WE'RE NOT CHANGING THE SET UP FOR YOU (cause you don't know whats good or bad) YOU LEARN TO DRIVE THE "SET UP" AND MAKE IT WORK ! Another suggestion, once you are as comfortable as you are going to get spraying paper....go next door and pa....skip that..... I see you made your flip flop's for the hood and trunk (I KNOW, YOU GOT HIS O-RINGS TOO).... consider painting the bottoms of the hood and deck first (just more practice with a little more pressure on you)....and another thing after you start to feel ok about painting flat paper (and the crowd goes ooooOOOOOoooo aaaaHHHHHaaaa) Paint your damn trash cans, they just look bad, I mean, you need to practice painting around curves and corners. Otherwise, you'll start at the back of the car, get to the front, and we'll find you standing there two weeks later , frozen, gun in hand, small child bringing you food and drink so you don't die...BECAUSE YOU GOT TO THE FRONT OF THE CAR AND REALIZED YOU DIDN'T KNOW HOW TO PAINT AROUND A CORNER !!! For the love of God man ! Don't let your children grow up without a father cause you didn't practice when you should have.......OH THE HUMANITY !!! (some say "over the top" I say "just enough"....after all, I learned my chops from Bill "some......thing.......onthewing" Shatner . One last B 4 I go. If you use the door for intake, you need to open a front door or back door so the house can breath...da Bat

  2. #162

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    Another thought. Talk to your paint supplier. See if he can give you the name and # of a painter who might be willing to come over and set you up with a workable spray , flow and pressure on your gun. Many times the guys in the paint store know how to paint so one of them may be willing... the offer of a C note would be worth it to get your equipment set so you only need to worry about you......your gonna want to do a break down on your gun and get it real clean after all that primer.

  3. #163
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff. That is a good idea. I will try and find a painter who might be willing (given some motivation) to drop by and check out my set up. The turbine sprayer makes the pressure part of the equation simple. I really only have two settings, high and low. The gun then allows me two adjustments, the fan and the fluid flow. Other than nozzle/needle size it is all me and my technique. Having someone verify the few settings I have should help reassure me that any errors are related to my technique. I will also practice some more. The little bit of practice/gun testing I did certainly built some confidence. I have been thinking about ways I could practice painting the curves of the car. I have some ideas, and will try them out this week. I will also use a practice method I saw on my painting DVD. This method is to tape a paint brush onto the gun and practice moving over the car with just the tips of the bristles touching the body.

    I still have a little blocking left to do. I have about 2/3 of the blocking complete and should be able to finish the rest up in a couple of hours of solid work. I can then move on to wet sanding. I will not miss the dust. It will be nice to get past this part. Other than wet sanding, I have a few items I want to finish up before I move onto sealer and paint. I have the driver side louver mounting studs attached to the body (Edwardb style) and need to knock out the passenger side. I also found a small pin hole on the driver side front wheel well edge. I will fill that with glazing putty before wet sanding. I will then go around and clean up all the holes in the body that are used for mounting the accessories (mirrors, roll bar bezels, hood bumpers, etc). Some have filler in them and I don't want to chance a drill around new paint. In between these tasks, I will practice some more as Jeff recommends.

    I figure I have a couple of more weeks left. If anyone is interested, I have now logged 142 hours on the bodywork.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
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    3 Link Rear Suspension, Gordon Levy 347 SBF with T5
    First start Feb 20, 2017, First Go Kart March 5, 2017, Registered & Title April 25, 2017

  4. #164
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    The end of an era.......I HOPE

    Well, hopefully I am finished with dry sanding. While blocking does have a certain initial satisfying appeal, the dust is never ending, annoying, gets in every crack (garage, car, even you), and eventually becomes the bane of your existence. I went over the body one more time with a hand held light and cleaned up all the small areas of orange peel I missed during my blocking effort over the past few days. I also found two small pin holes and two small uneven spots on the door jambs. I filled those with glazing putty and got them sanded down. I will check everything one more time before wet sanding with 600 grit. Here she is.



    I also needed to knock out a few items before paint. I got the side louver mounts installed. As I mentioned earlier, I am using the method Edwardb shared in his build thread. Attached perforated base studs and 3M HSRF. Probably a little over kill but I like the idea that I can remove the louvers. It makes getting the side pipes off and on easier (at least on my car it does). Here is the rough finish. I will sand them down to make them smooth and more presentable. No one will ever see them but I want it to look nice if they do. If you are going to do it..... do it right.



    I also picked up some sealer while I was at the supply shop picking up my oops paint. It was the last gallon of 335 they had so instead of risking a delay, I thought I would go ahead and pick it up. I certainly hope I don't need a whole gallon but it is a 4:1:1 mix ratio sealer that says I only need one coat. I figure it will take about 1/3 - 1/2 a gallon to cover all the panels and the body. If I mess up, I will have some extra.



    I will start wet sanding this week (hopefully tomorrow after work) and will try to finish this weekend. Each round of blocking has taken a consistent 8-10 hours. I suspect wet sanding will be no different even though I will be using a small pad instead of blocks. Is this the right tool to use?


    The sand paper says NASCAR Performance so it must be good.

    I am going to try a guide coat as well as without on the under side of the trunk first. I have never wet sanded with this fine a grit so I would like to see if the guide coat helps or just makes a bigger mess. I will try and take some pictures for comparison.

    I still have some homework to complete before paint (sounds like my trash cans will need a coat or two). When I practice some more on paint, I will post some updates on that as well. Getting closer. Slowly but surely.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
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    3 Link Rear Suspension, Gordon Levy 347 SBF with T5
    First start Feb 20, 2017, First Go Kart March 5, 2017, Registered & Title April 25, 2017

  5. #165

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    Oh ! My! god ! you are such a rookie ! First off...NEVER BUY NASCAR SANDPAPER !!! DUDE ! You can only sand to the LEFT ! So, Yes you need to use your guide coat. It will let you known when you have all the 320 scratches out. The dry guide works fine wet (I do it all the time on small parts ). Ok, I'm trying to figure out how to splaine this. You fold the paper in half and tear or cut it. Now you fold the half into 3rds (should come out about the same size as the block) DON'T USE THAT BACKING PAD !! I don't freeking care what anyone says ! Get the one with holes n it that looks like thick wet suit material. DO NOT ! fold your paper around the sanding pad ( I will pull your ears of). You place the paper on the pad and using the tip of your pinky finger wrap it under to secure the paper. With your three center finger running the length of the pad keeping even pressure. Moderate pressure, pushing hard is bad news. ( This is GOLD,,, I don't share this with just anyone) (you're lucky I'm drinking tonight) (hell, I'm lucky I'm drinking tonight ) You sand at 45* angle with 50% overlap and then reverse the angle so that you are cross cutting. When the guide coat is gone do a front to back (linier) clean up pass to smooth things over. Short strokes (8-10 in) If you do long strokes and pick up a little sompin sompin you'll put long scratches in the primer (bad news). Short strokes and pay attention to the feel and sound to avoid crap getting under your pad....lots of water to flush away primer silt ! You gotta keep it flushed or your paper is just floating on the silt (and you thought the dust was bad....just wait till you deal with the goo you are gonna make) SO ! One piece of paper (I am talking about the half piece you have folded into 3rds) will do the top of the hood. The deck lid...2 sides one left over...the nose "between the fenders" 2 sides" the cowel" (between the fenders) 2 sides. The back...around the roll bars between the fenders 3 sides....Trying to give you an idea of how often you need to turn your paper. It's only 600 for the first ten licks...then it turns to 700 then 800. You need to keep a good cut and leave an even scratch (painters call it "tooth") for the paint to grab onto.....lots of paper, lots of water "little squeeze of soap" Watch the edges of that paper as you make those left hand turns so as ya don't be gougen the primer....so much more but I put in a 17 hr day and I need to get drunk in the shower (saves time, don't need a chaser) and hit the rack. Cheers...da Bat.... damn it son,,, you get this dialed in and you can go broke working for me !
    Last edited by j.miller; 07-17-2017 at 11:09 PM. Reason: I skipped a period....damn !

  6. #166

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    You are only gonna need two qts of the sealer (2 is more then enough) Unless you are planning another paint job soon you could swap it out for quarts.....Mix that one 4:1:1.5....it will go on a lot faster then your primer so be ready to move.

  7. #167
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Thanks Miller. Your a hoot. Your posts are both informative and entertaining. Double value for all those that care to read.

    I ordered one of the pads you mentioned. My local shop didn't have one. Here is a link.

    Motor Guard HT-1 Holey Terror Sanding Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WUYG1O..._kdHBzbH3WMP32

    I was wondering if I could just use my current pad for a small test? I am impatient and Amazon next day delivery just doesn't satisfy my need for instant gratification. What about a scotch brite pad as a backing?

    If not I guess I will just wait one whole day.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
    Build Thread
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    3 Link Rear Suspension, Gordon Levy 347 SBF with T5
    First start Feb 20, 2017, First Go Kart March 5, 2017, Registered & Title April 25, 2017

  8. #168

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    Yes, I'll let you practice with the one you have. Now you will have two and be able to see which one suits you.....Left handed sand paper.....who ever heard of such a thing. Sheesh

  9. #169
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    .....Left handed sand paper.....who ever heard of such a thing. Sheesh
    I've heard of rolling up some "left handed cigarettes" but that's a whole other story for a different thread

    Jeff

  10. #170
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Another update

    Sorry for the seemingly daily posts. I am sure not everyone wants to read through this thread but it is a way for me to capture my learnings while they are fresh in my mind. So I tackled two items tonight. First, was a burn through I needed to fix and the second was a test with wet sanding. First the burn through.

    My Jedi Master (aka Jeff Miller or da Bat) told me that the only reason to worry about burn through on the 2K primer was if I sanded to filler. Well, I was cleaning up a glazing putty spot and found this:



    It wasn't large but it looked a little yellow to me. Slick Sand is gray and this seemed to be some Rage Gold. I wanted to do this right so I broke out the gun and 2K and mixed up a small batch. Plus, this was another way for me to test my newly acquired gun set up skills and work a little on my spraying technique. I had spotted some 2K before on the hood and trunk and had terrible over spray. That was the sand paper feel I had described in earlier post. Since I have a better understanding of my gun, I did two things. One turned the fan down to about 25-30% open. From 4-5" away I got a 3" fan width. That seemed right for the small touch up. Secondly, I set the fluid flow to about 1/2 to 3/4 a turn open. I did some tests on my trusty poster board and I liked it. I got a little closer (4-5") and applied a medium wet coat. Here is a picture of the first coat.



    Virtually no over spray or orange peel. I had suffered from both earlier and it seems my new set up is much better. I contribute this to my Jedi training. I am still a Padawan but at least I can turn on my light saber. After three coats, I had a really smooth application. Two hours later I blocked it out (I know, more dry sanding) and it it all fixed. I wish I had this knowledge and set up prior to spraying the 2K. It would have minimized my sanding efforts. Well, I got some exercise and hard work never killed anyone.

    Now for the wet sanding test. Miller gave me the thumbs up to try my rubber sanding block. It worked but I will test my new one tomorrow. I used a guide coat on most of the trunk but left a little spot clean to see how it worked. The guide coat is much easier. It is easy to see the 320 grit scratches and when they disappear. This picture is not great but you might be able to see the remaining guide coat on the left.



    I started sanding and before I knew it the underside of the trunk was done. This wet sanding went a lot faster and much easier than dry sanding during my earlier blocking sessions. It takes 2-3 sanding passes and the front to back stroke and I could move on. I worked in small areas and it was easy. It went so easy, I went ahead and knocked out the top of the trunk lid as well. The whole process took maybe 30 minutes. If the rest of the wet sanding goes this smooth then it won't take me 8-10 hours like the other sanding sessions. After sanding I washed the trunk off with a hose and snapped this picture. I thought it looked neat. It is so smooth. This is the first time it has looked this way. I hope the paint turns out this smooth.



    As usual thanks for following along, let me know if you see any issues, and thanks for the continued support.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
    Build Thread
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    3 Link Rear Suspension, Gordon Levy 347 SBF with T5
    First start Feb 20, 2017, First Go Kart March 5, 2017, Registered & Title April 25, 2017

  11. #171

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    Super valuable thread, keep it up!

    if only so we can all see how crazy it is not to use a pro
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  12. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by srobinsonx2 View Post
    Sorry for the seemingly daily posts. I am sure not everyone wants to read through this thread.... [clip]
    I think this is one of the best threads I've read in the almost 3 years I've been here. The learning curve, the almost daily updates, the successes and issues... I cannot wait to see color on this car and see it all come together. I will drink a cheers / shot in your honor.

    The other great part of this thread is the assistance given by the pros to help someone do it themselves. Outstanding.
    ---Boyd---
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    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  13. #173

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    THE FORCE IS STRONG WITH THIS ONE...Yep, the 500-600 wet goes much faster. keep using the guide coat (or you won't know when you get all the scratches out) Kudos on the spray pattern and make sure you alternate your sanding pattern ....So, when you spray, Kleiner and I will set up a couple lazy boys .He'll bring the left handed (#$%@^) ...I'll bring the rum....you do the work, and we'll all be happy to be alive.....what? No !!! I said "lazy Boy" not "lady Boy"...... !!! Crap on a cracker ! you spend 20 years on a forum and they think they know you....start hearing what they "want" to hear.....You guys are bad, Bad, BAd, BAD !!...da Bat !!!!!!!#######

  14. #174
    Senior Member Gromit's Avatar
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    srobinsonx2

    Keep posting, As often as you like... This is the best active thread since edwardb finished his 20th Anniversary build.

    Chris AKA Gromit

  15. #175
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    ...So, when you spray, Kleiner and I will set up a couple lazy boys .He'll bring the left handed (#$%@^) ...I'll bring the rum....you do the work, and we'll all be happy to be alive.....
    Now you're talkin'! This could turn out to be even better than our trip to Hawaii for at least 2 reasons...1) we don't have to do any work and B) we don't have to share a bunk with Dougherty!

    Jeff

  16. #176

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Now you're talkin'! This could turn out to be even better than our trip to Hawaii for at least 2 reasons...1) we don't have to do any work and B) we don't have to share a bunk with Dougherty!

    Jeff
    Yeah, sharing a room with Dougherty....That guy snores louder then a Supercharged V8 Hot Saw......somewhere between 2am and 330 am that boy deforested about 500 acres of prime old growth timber ...got him back. I fired up mine and took out another 400....Haven't given up on Maui Carl just yet..now if he was "Kawai Carl" it would have been a done deal....sucks to be on the wrong island...da bat

  17. #177
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Wet Sanding is done

    You guys come on. I will supply the rum, lazy boys, and you won't even have to share a bedroom.

    I finished wet sanding everything with 600 grit tonight. Took me a total of 4 1/2 hours to complete this round of sanding. That is about half of what it took to block out everything dry. Much faster and much easier. Here are the two backing pads I tried. The one of the left was the type I think Jeff Miller recommended. It is a little firmer and I like it better for the large flat areas. The only problem is was just a little too thick and I found it hard to get the paper to wrap around both edges so I could grasp them with my fingers (that is with 1/2 a sheet folded into thirds). The smaller one on the right was easier to keep the paper on the pad and had a little more give which worked nice on the curves. I struggled at first with the paper staying on the pad but found that if I could just get one side held down with a finger on the edge (pinky worked best) then the water would allow a slight suction to hold the paper to the backing pad. It is hard to explain but if you try it I think you will see what I mean.



    I found that Jeff Miller's account of paper use was about right. It took me one and a half full sheets to do the driver side front of the car. The back driver side took one full sheet. All together I went through about about 5 sheets on just the body. The panels took another 3 sheets. I bought two packs of 10 sheets and have one full pack (unopened) and two sheets left over. That might help someone in the future as they start to buy material. I will hang onto the unopened pack in case something goes awry but hopefully won't need it and can take it back.

    Here is shot of the finished product after wet sanding. I found one small pin hole I missed on my previous inspections. That guide coat really helps identify these issues. I will fill it with glazing putty and wet sand that area.



    I just love the way it looks wet. I hope it looks that good when I finish the paint.

    My next move will be to wash the body, panels, buck, and panel stands. I was planning on using a washing cloth or sponge. Something soft that won't scratch. Is that ok or should I use something like a gray scotch brite pad? I will wash it with water and just a little dishwashing soap. I will wash it twice and rinse it real good and then air dry. I will use a stiff bristle scrub brush to clean the underside of the car, the buck and the stands. I should finish that tomorrow evening of Saturday morning. I will then have he remainder of the weekend to clean the garage real good (walls, floors, garage door, etc). I will mop the floors and wipe everything down with a wet rag.

    I will then practice spraying some paint. I plan on wrapping the poster board around my trash can. That will simulate the ends of the car. I will also lay a roll of plastic on the ground and lay the poster board on top of that with the edges taped down. That should simulate the humps on the car. I will practice both of these until I have good smooth coverage after three or four passes with no striping or uneven coverage. I will have the weekend and the first part of next week to get that part dialed in. Should I practice with some clear coat? Or does it spray about like the basecoat?

    If all goes well, I would like to paint next weekend. I am going to work on my painting plan. I will share that in the next couple of days for input and advice. More to come. I am getting close.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
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    3 Link Rear Suspension, Gordon Levy 347 SBF with T5
    First start Feb 20, 2017, First Go Kart March 5, 2017, Registered & Title April 25, 2017

  18. #178
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by srobinsonx2 View Post
    ...Should I practice with some clear coat? Or does it spray about like the basecoat?...
    The clear is much thinner and less clingy (is that even a real term?) than base so putting a little shine on those trash cans might be some good practice. You have to keep moving quickly and steadily with it---one little pause or linger with the gun can end up in an "oh fudge...but I didn't say fudge" moment to quote Ralphie Parker. I have zero experience with turbine systems so can't offer any direction specific to your setup but will say that when shooting clear with a compressed air gun I up the pressure and give it a big ol' fan. I expect Professor Miller will fly in here with some better words of wisdom.

    Yes, you are getting close and it's looking good!

    Jeff

  19. #179

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    You are doing great brother (oh, a compliment, should you be worried) (don't be, I give them sometimes)..Like Capt. O said, practice with the clear. It will have a different viscosity so you need to get used to it. I keep my fan about the same. I want the 8in repeatable pattern....the more you can do every step the same, the better chance at success you will have. In the past 18 years starting from roadster #1 The body and parts have always been set up in the same orientation and I have followed the same pattern of where I start and stop. I did, 2 years ago, change how I shoot the driver fender. I prime in the same sequence (ok, starting to think I'm obsessive compulsive ) Sometime in painting,,,,you forget where you are....on the car and you can either miss a section or spray one twice....doing every thing the same every times keeps me from getting lost....well that, and the nametag sewed into my Tshirts and underware....damn it....i'm commando today,,,they'll only be able to return the top half of me !!!

  20. #180

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    Oh! and Kleiner...yes, clingy is a word....remember Ohio......"CLINGY" ..like that one....yeah, like to thought we would never get away fro.......oh, these guys don't need to know about that....da bat

  21. #181
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    Oh ! My! god ! you are such a rookie ! First off...NEVER BUY NASCAR SANDPAPER !!! DUDE ! You can only sand to the LEFT !
    Exception: can be used twice a year, so you need to plan your body work accordingly.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  22. #182

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    Quote Originally Posted by weendoggy View Post
    Exception: can be used twice a year, so you need to plan your body work accordingly.
    Yep! Twice a year....Hey weendoggy, you seem to be around more these day. It's a good thing! Musta got that rash cleared up

  23. #183
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    Yep! Twice a year....Hey weendoggy, you seem to be around more these day. It's a good thing! Musta got that rash cleared up
    Yeah, it's been a PITA and I've had it ever since I visited you with the Daytona Coupe. How's yours doing?
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  24. #184
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Color is in sight

    I will keep this PG and not comment on the rash. This could go south real quick.

    In all my excitement to finish the wet sanding, I forgot to mention I did find another spot of burn through. On the front cockpit roll. Just a small spot but definitely some Rage Gold showing through. I touched that up this evening. The JP202 laid down really smooth with no overspray. Thanks again to Miller for the guidance on gun set up. It is smooth enough I think I can just wet sand and be done. I will do that in the morning then wash the body, buck and stands. The rest of my time tomorrow will be dedicated to practicing with paint and clear. I picked up a gallon of JC6700. Supposedly this is their good stuff in the Shopline category. I got the slow activator JH6720.



    I think I have plenty and will use a little to test. I will post some pictures of the tests for critique and comments.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
    Build Thread
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    3 Link Rear Suspension, Gordon Levy 347 SBF with T5
    First start Feb 20, 2017, First Go Kart March 5, 2017, Registered & Title April 25, 2017

  25. #185
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Paint Plan

    Forgot to ask my question. I am planning my painting set up/sequence and could use some guidance. As I see it I have two options.

    Option 1:Put all the panels/body in my two car garage and paint everything at once. Convenient but things are tight and I am concerned about overspray, good air movement, and bumping something.

    Option 2: I can paint the panels (doors, hood, trunk) and the body separately. That gives me more room and lowers the risk of overspray

    I am leaning towards the two separate sessions but things get tricky and I risk dust and contact. If I do things separately Here is what I am thinking:

    1. Move the body outside and set up the panels. Apply 2K sealer. One coat per the product sheet and let it flash. Does anyone apply more than one coat?
    2. Spray the stripe color on the hood and trunk. I was not going to tape off the bottom. Enough coats for coverage (3-4 I hope). Let it flash good.
    3. Move the panels out of the garage and roll the body in.
    4. Apply 2K sealer on the body and let it flash
    5. Spray the stripe color
    6. Take my hood and trunk off the Kleiner flip flop apparatus and Bring them back in
    7. Tape the stripes after a good flash per the product sheet.
    8. Body back out side and all the panels come in. Hood and trunk back on the flip flops.
    9. Spray the color on the panels followed by the required flash
    10. Spray clear on the panels then move them to the front of the garage
    11. Bring the body inside and spray color then clear.

    Seems like an awful lot of finagling but I am concerned mostly about overspray. I know I said that seems to be solved but I only get one shot a the base color. If I mess that up I am sanding and respraying. What do you guys think here? I might try to post a layout of my garage. That might help some of you provide feedback. Let me know if I am missing something.

    Thanks in advance.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
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  26. #186
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Garage layout

    Here is my garage layout. The airflow is per Jeff Miller's recommendation. The fans will be on the floor with the garage door shut down to their height. I will put plywood panels on each sides of the fans and on the door to the house. The house door will be open and that panel will have a hole with a filter.



    Everything will fit inside (this is how I applied the 2K primer) but it is tight. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
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  27. #187

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    I'm a firm believer in doing it all at the same time (if you feel you can move around the parts and work). The overspray from the sealer is the biggest concern.If you shoot the body first you need to cover the loose parts for sealer over spray, shoot body, uncover parts, tack off and spray. Your paint overspray shouldn't be as big of a prob. I have no advise on the clear. I haven't shot that one....I can tell you it will be thick....good luck !..da Bat

  28. #188

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    Quote Originally Posted by weendoggy View Post
    Yeah, it's been a PITA and I've had it ever since I visited you with the Daytona Coupe. How's yours doing?
    still got mine. Acetone on the raw skin helps with the itch but I just can't get it to....well.....you know ?...da Bat

  29. #189
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Paint practice

    I got the body and panels washed. I used just a few drops of soap in a 2 gallon bucket. Washed everything twice and let it air dry. Also got the buck and stands cleaned up. No exciting photos of the cleaning. But I did some practice painting.

    I set up a painting "obstacle course".



    I had two flat surfaces (vertical and horizontal) as well as two curved surface.

    Set up my gun like I did the other day, 1.5mm nozzle,50-60% fan, and just slightly over 1 turn out on the fluid flow (1 1/4). Put down a first coat.



    After three coats I almost had complete coverage. It looks thinner than it is. Some of those light spots is just glare.



    This give me an idea of how many coats and how much paint I will need. I put all three coats and a fourth on the poster board on the wall. This took about 1/2 a pint (premixed). A gallon of paint should be plenty.

    Here is the fourth coat on the wall.



    I really didn't have any issues to this point. My technique is getting better and I feel more confident. I then decided to test some clear. I mixed up just a little to spray on the poster board with 4 coats. Here is a shot after two coats and a 15 minute flash. It is pretty smooth considering the poster board is not perfect.



    The clear is thicker. I was using the same nozzle/needle but I had to open up the fluid flow. I like what Jeff Miller said about not changing my technique. I will have a hard enough time keeping one technique in check, I don't need another to confuse things. The little extra flow allowed me to keep the same distances away and about the same pace of spraying. I noticed something a little different about the clear. When I first sparyed it, looked like it had a little "roughness" to it. But within a 3-4 seconds, it would "flow" out and become pretty smooth with a wet look. This is the first time I noticed what I think painters are calling flowability. It was pretty cool.

    I have another pint of oops paint the I will practice with some more over the next few days. I will also play with my garage arrangement in preparation for paint. I will try to do as Miller says and see if I can find an arrangement that will allow me to paint everything at once.
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  30. #190

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    I like the fan pattern on the paper. Looks good. If you want to save room, shoot the bottoms of your hood, deck, scoop....let them dry a couple days. Get rid of the flip-flop tables and this should give you a little more space.....good practice brother

  31. #191
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    I like the idea of painting the bottoms. More practice. Do you tape the top off during that part? Would you recommend just sealing the bottom or seal it all at once and scuff up the top prior to base?

    The flip flop tables take up a lot of room. just having them on stands would make my life much easier.
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  32. #192

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    Sooo, for me, I don't finish sand the tops till after I paint the bottom....with yours already being sanded I would say Yes, mask them. I know you have washed your parts but they will have been sitting for a few days...no big deal...when you are ready to paint you want to go over the parts with a gray scotch brite, blow them off, tack them then spray.....just to get "fall out" pollen, little teeny tiny bug turds, hand prints...etc off before you paint.....if ya need me ta hold your hand I'm just a phone call away.anytime...(damn near as excited about your paint job as when I paint mine)...da Bat

  33. #193

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    Oh ! Just seal the side you are painting.....we're just trying to get this bird in the air and back on the ground in one piece.....save the acrobatics for the pros. (jeez I crack myself up) xoxo

  34. #194
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff. I am getting exited and a little nervous. I took the flip flop parts off the panels last night and played with my garage set up. Much more room and doable. I am going to paint it all at once like you recommend. Well, all except the underside of the trunk an hood. I am going to paint those this week. Either Tuesday or Wednesday. If all goes as planned I am going to paint this weekend. I am developing my plan and will post some details later. I know, I know. Some of you are saying.....your over thinking this....Get er done! But I'm an engineer so planning is part of the fun. Plus my wife says I have a little OCD. I am going to need a plan to address that.

    I am going to pick up the paint today at lunch. Getting close.
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  35. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by srobinsonx2 View Post
    But I'm an engineer so planning is part of the fun. Plus my wife says I have a little OCD.
    All of us engineers are (at least) a little OCD. It's actually a good thing when you think about it.

    This thread is fantastic by the way. I really appreciate the level of detail here.
    Last edited by jceckard; 07-24-2017 at 08:47 AM.

  36. #196
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    Are you using a cup and liner setup? If so what one? I started my slick sand over the weekend and I am starting to look into paint gun setups... I found the slick sand to be very hard to clean the gun... and I was looking for an easier way when i get to sealer and paint.

  37. #197
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    I'm using 3M's PPS system. It works great. I am using a turbine system which requires a pressurized cup which is different than the normal cup I used with my primer gun. See post 128 above. It describes what I have. It makes clean up much easier. Essentially you just have to clean the gun. Good luck.
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  38. #198
    Senior Member srobinsonx2's Avatar
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    Paint

    I am committed now. I purchased the paint yesterday and the rest of my supplies. I picked up a gallon of the main color (PRH) and a quart of the stripe color (1D6). I also bought the appropriate amount of reducer in JR507. This is their slow reducer for 75-85F. I also picked up some tape. They had a few kinds so I picked what I thought was the best. I got some vinyl tape that I plan to use as the outline of the stripes. I will then use the green tape (more like traditional masking) along with some paper to fill in the stripe. All of the tape for this part was 1/2". I also got some wider green tape incase I don't like the paper. I also picked up some 1/4" vinyl tape. I will use this for the 1/4" "pin stripe" just outside the main le mans stripes. I struggled with how I was going to get this stripe laid out perfectly. Since I am going to have the 1/4" stripe, exactly 1/4" away from the main stripe I am going to use the tape itself as a spacer. So, I will lay down a 1/4" tape line right next to the main stripe. I will then run a second 1/4 tape line right next to the first. I can then pull the first tape line (the one in the middle) and should have a perfectly spaced 1/4" stripe. If there is a better way just let me know. Here is pic of what I bought



    So I have contemplated how I am going to actually do the painting (time of day, sequence ,etc). Here is my plan. Feel free to critique me:

    - Wedensday eveneing: Paint the underside of the hood scoop, hood, and deck lid. Sealer first, followed by the main color and clear. Tops will be taped
    - Thursday evening: arrange the garage for the main painting session. Remove the tape from the top of the painted panels and re-tape the bottom
    - Friday morning: 4 AM sealer is applied
    - 5:30 Apply the stripe color to the center of the body, hood, and trunk. 3 coats or until full coverage (10 minute flash between coats)
    - 8:00 AM (after a 1 hour flash) - tape off the stripes. I assume this will take me 2-3 hours to get it perfect. It will then be 11 AM and getting hot. Wait for evening
    - 10:00 PM - spray the main color on all panels and body. 3-4 coats for full coverage with a 10 minute flash time.
    - 1:00 AM - pull tape and spray clear. 2 -3 coats with 10 minute flash time.

    If I make a mistake (runs, accidental contact, big bug) on the sealer or paint, I plan to stop at the point of the mistake. Let it flash completely (essentially cure) then wet sand with 600 grit and re-coat. If a mistake happens on clear then I was going to just going to deal with it once the clear is done. I will of course remove any trash if it happens to fall into my clear but runs I will just fix later.

    As a note, I was going to tack the car off between coats after it has flashed and just before apply the next coat. I thought this might help reduce any risk of having some overspray that had dried. Is that a good idea or not?

    I am getting excited. I took off Friday and Monday so I will have adequate time. Wish me luck and let me know if I have missed something.
    FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
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  39. #199

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    Big weekend Shame there isn't a live stream so we could watch the color going on!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  40. #200

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    Quote Originally Posted by srobinsonx2 View Post
    I am committed now. I purchased the paint yesterday and the rest of my supplies. I picked up a gallon of the main color (PRH) and a quart of the stripe color (1D6). I also bought the appropriate amount of reducer in JR507. This is their slow reducer for 75-85F. I also picked up some tape. They had a few kinds so I picked what I thought was the best. I got some vinyl tape that I plan to use as the outline of the stripes. I will then use the green tape (more like traditional masking) along with some paper to fill in the stripe. All of the tape for this part was 1/2". I also got some wider green tape incase I don't like the paper. I also picked up some 1/4" vinyl tape. I will use this for the 1/4" "pin stripe" just outside the main le mans stripes. I struggled with how I was going to get this stripe laid out perfectly. Since I am going to have the 1/4" stripe, exactly 1/4" away from the main stripe I am going to use the tape itself as a spacer. So, I will lay down a 1/4" tape line right next to the main stripe. I will then run a second 1/4 tape line right next to the first. I can then pull the first tape line (the one in the middle) and should have a perfectly spaced 1/4" stripe. If there is a better way just let me know. Here is pic of what I bought



    So I have contemplated how I am going to actually do the painting (time of day, sequence ,etc). Here is my plan. Feel free to critique me:

    - Wedensday eveneing: Paint the underside of the hood scoop, hood, and deck lid. Sealer first, followed by the main color and clear. Tops will be taped
    - Thursday evening: arrange the garage for the main painting session. Remove the tape from the top of the painted panels and re-tape the bottom
    - Friday morning: 4 AM sealer is applied
    - 5:30 Apply the stripe color to the center of the body, hood, and trunk. 3 coats or until full coverage (10 minute flash between coats)
    - 8:00 AM (after a 1 hour flash) - tape off the stripes. I assume this will take me 2-3 hours to get it perfect. It will then be 11 AM and getting hot. Wait for evening
    - 10:00 PM - spray the main color on all panels and body. 3-4 coats for full coverage with a 10 minute flash time.
    - 1:00 AM - pull tape and spray clear. 2 -3 coats with 10 minute flash time.

    If I make a mistake (runs, accidental contact, big bug) on the sealer or paint, I plan to stop at the point of the mistake. Let it flash completely (essentially cure) then wet sand with 600 grit and re-coat. If a mistake happens on clear then I was going to just going to deal with it once the clear is done. I will of course remove any trash if it happens to fall into my clear but runs I will just fix later.

    As a note, I was going to tack the car off between coats after it has flashed and just before apply the next coat. I thought this might help reduce any risk of having some overspray that had dried. Is that a good idea or not?

    I am getting excited. I took off Friday and Monday so I will have adequate time. Wish me luck and let me know if I have missed something.
    Time line is a little tight for the stripe process but other then that it all looks like a plan. I could help you with your stripes if ya wanna have another chat. You are doing so good brother !...da Bat

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