Just looking for pros and cons of why or why not to use the hangers. Would a flexible OEM type hanger be better? This is for a strictly street driven car.
Thanks, Mike.
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Just looking for pros and cons of why or why not to use the hangers. Would a flexible OEM type hanger be better? This is for a strictly street driven car.
Thanks, Mike.
Mark IV 7923 arrived 11-14-12
DOHC 4.6L, Tremec 3650, 3 Link 8.8 w/3.73
The ones that FFR supplies are flexible. I haven't had any issues using them.
Mike
40,000 miles on mine w/ no hangers.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
No disrespect to Craig because I always listen to and give credence to what he has to say but I have to disagree on this one. I've never understood why some builders are so resistant to using the hangers I can cite at least two instances of this happening to the #1 or #5 header pipe:
The owners both confessed to running without sidepipe hangers. Is that why it happened? I certainly can't say but it has to make you go "hmmmm???". I'm one who definitely recommends using them but only with one bolt at the pipe to hanger joint (snuged but not clamping tight) so that the pipes can move or pivot without ripping the tab loose from the pipe yet still have the weight supported. I just think that allowing the 30ish pound pipes to hang unsupported at the end of a 4 foot long lever falls into the "not a good idea" category Just my not always so humble opinion of course...
Jeff
Jeff,
Your "Single Bolt Solution" is interesting.
Do you tend to do this with rubber or poly engine mounts or is it both.
Yes, I'm having a "Hmmmm Moment!"
Steve
Both. With the rubber hanger mounts there is some amount of movement. With both bolts tight this becomes a torquing action at the tab welded to the pipe which has resulted in a lot of cases of the tab ripping out of the pipe after the metal fatigues. Myself and many others have adopted the one bolt method and to my knowledge none that have been mounted this way have had a tab failure.
Jeff
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
This is EXACTLY the information I was looking for.
Mark IV 7923 arrived 11-14-12
DOHC 4.6L, Tremec 3650, 3 Link 8.8 w/3.73
Ok why is it I use the hangers and still get cracks in the headers at the flanges. Three sets of header and all three cracked on different tubes and different spots. This last set (stainless) have been the best so far but right now have to have Tig welded. These were welded inside and outside ????? OK I give you that the engine is a 427 stroker and has a nasty cam and shakes alot but car is not track raced.
When you say single bolt are you talking about on the mount to frame or on the sidepipe to bracket ? And which bolt do you leave out?
Kenny
I went a slightly different route and turned my hangers and rubber donuts into traditional exhaust hangers - there's movement, but it's damped by the rubber and doesn't put much pressure on either the headers at their flanges or on the sidepipes where the hanger mounting tabs are welded. Two years on the road and 7,000 miles and no issues.
Here are a couple pics - basically, I cut the end off of the FFR supplied brackets and then re-tasked them to work without the "fulcrum effect." Also, the rubber donut has a spacer in it so that when the bolt is tightened down into the chassis rail, it doesn't put any tension on the rubber, allowing the rubber to rotate freely.
I also used a Riv-Nut in the chassis rail for the bolt that goes through the rubber donut....
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074