Help - spindle doesn't fit balljoint??

[RoadRacer]

Having solved the problem of the missing #14406 (0.25" spacer) on the bottom lower balljoint->Spindle (it was replaced by #15803, 5/8” countersunk washer), I went back to torque up the front suspension..

I'm working my way around, and get to the upper balljoint->spindle and start torquing to 90ft/lb as per the manual.. and I'm torquing and torquing, with little resistance. I could do it by hand. The boot is getting very compressed.

So I stop and look - the castle nut is already at least 5 threads past the cotter pin hole. Uh? I'm not sure what's going on here - it's as though the upper balljoint isn't the correct taper? It doesn't look it here, but the nut in the picture is completely loose, I spun it back down 5 threads at least to touch the cotter pin.

What did I miss?

spindle-taper1.jpeg

spindle-taper2.jpeg

[michael everson]

My guess is you need a spacer on the upper too.
Mike

[DaveS53]

If the ball joint shaft is going too deep into the spindle and over-squashing the boot, a spacer won't fix that. The compressed look is common for the upper boot, if the suspension is all the way down. A spacer will take care of the cotter pin alignment issue. I've got similar spacers on my car, but sometimes they can be too thick, so I just use some stainless steel washers when that happens. They don't show on my fendered car. I spent a lot on SS washers at McMaster-Carr for a variety of uses.

Also, while you do need to get the nut plenty tight, you also have to line up the cotter pin hole. You won't necessarily do that and have 90 ft-lbs of torque at the same time. If you have to back off the nut to line up the hole, the torque setting is lost. I wouldn't put more torque on it. I never torqued mine. I just tightened them plenty tight and stopped when a hole lined up with the nut. It was easy to tell when a whole lot of force would be needed to get the nut turned to the next alignment position. The idea is to insure that the shaft doesn't loosen and damage the tapered hole in the spindle. If you don't feel comfortable with not using a torque wrench, I'd suggest a range of 60-90. If you can get over 60 and get alignment for the cotter pin hole, I'd call it good.

[RoadRacer]

Good call, I'll experiment with washers tonight and then make up a proper spacer. Thanks.

[DaveS53]

I'm glad I read this thread. I had my car up on the lift for some other work and decided to see how tight the ball joint nuts really were. It turns out that they could all stand to be one notch tighter, so I did that. For some reason, my uppers needed less spacer than the lowers. I apparently found a single extra thick SS washer to use as a spacer on the uppers.

While I was checking parts in this area, a see a loose bolt that was about ready to come out (after 3,000 miles of driving). It turns out that I missed applying loctite and torquing the 7/16" grade 8 bolts that mount the Wilwood caliper adapters to the 2" dropped Mustang II spindles. It's a 2-step process. You're supposed to bolt the adapters in place, then install the calipers and use special shim washers to get the proper caliper alignment. After that, you go back, apply loctite and torque the adapter bolts. I guess I missed that step. Glad I it caught before something bad happened.

[Barrel]

Did you have the same problem with the upper spindle/balljoint driver's side ?

[RoadRacer]

Did you have the same problem with the upper spindle/balljoint driver's side ?

I didn't even look at the other 3 balljoints after finding this. I will tonight..

[erlihemi]

I guess I haven't paid attention to whether these spindles come from another application and are "adapted" to the 33 or if they are unique to the 33. Feels like maybe they are common to another higher production unit. Why else would we have to monkey around with spacers unless the ball joint design is not the original CAD design. I don't remember having issues with my spacers, but there was a lot of discussion on the earlier builds about the load bearing direction of the upper "mopar" style joint. Did FF5 change the ball joints that are being used? Note that there are also aftermarket ball joints with different length between the ball and taper to adjust spindle position that may affect bump steer also. These should not affect thread and cotter pin position. Therefore the spindles are not matched to the OEM ball joint being used.

[DaveS53]

The upper ball joints are probably a Chrysler model 772 screw-in. They look like Mevotech MK772 to me. Many spindles have a standard 7 degree spindle taper, that allows a number of ball joints to be used. Having to use spacers or washers is not a big deal.

I bought the special 3/4" drive ball joint socket (1-59/64"), so I could remove and replace mine. They are usually torqued to 100 ft-lbs. Using a crescent wrench or pipe wrench is not a good idea.

[Arrowhead]

The ball joints and the receivers are threaded, but they don't unscrew as they are weled in place. They can be replaced, but you have to cut the welds enough for clearance and then unthread them.

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[RoadRacer]

Did you have the same problem with the upper spindle/balljoint driver's side ?

Both sides are consistent, and required a minimum of .15" spacer, which I've now added. The lower joints worked with the supplied spacers. This is #997 by the way

balljoint-spacer.jpeg

[jlfernan]

Have this same issue with my roadster. Are the washers that came for the lower control arms OK to use or do I need a harder maybe grade 8 washer?

[RoadRacer]

Have this same issue with my roadster. Are the washers that came for the lower control arms OK to use or do I need a harder maybe grade 8 washer?

All I can tell you is that I just used some zinc plated washers from lowes