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Thread: engine mount issue locking in place

  1. #1
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    engine mount issue locking in place

    Ok, So with motor mount issues i had to notch the mount. no big deal. I got the engine in and the transmission. looking great. I have one issue with the driver side mount. It wont go all the way in. With the passanger side, I had to step and push on the mount to make it "click" into place. I tried stepping on the driver side but no joy.... Is it ok to put a 2x4 on the mount and give it some persuasion? haha the tab is not in the hole as you can see from the picture below. My only concern would be if i hit the 2x4, would it put to much pressure on the block mounting holes and crack it?


  2. #2
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    I had similar issues. In my case I left the block side engine mount bolts loose to allow more movement which pretty much let every settle into place. I made sure that there was not too much stress on parts and bolts as I lowered the engine.

  3. #3
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Yeah, in that picture the locating pin needs to drop down into that lower hole, so you have a ways to go. I had the same problem. As I remember it, I got one side in (I think the passenger side) and used a good sized pry bar to squeeze the other side in. If doing one side doesn't work, lift the engine and drop in the other side first and try to pry in the opposite side. It took a bit of finagling, but it did go in. My pics are in your other thread. Also, while the engine is still hanging on the cherry-picker, put some up or down tension and see if that helps with the tight mount. One last thing, loosen the two block bolts and see if that gives you any more leeway.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
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    where did you put the pry bar to pry it all in?

  5. #5
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awd-turbo View Post
    where did you put the pry bar to pry it all in?
    Again, I'm saying this from memory, but I believe I was actually prying between the frame mount and it's mating motor mount surface (on the side that is not dropping in). It's seems counter-intuitive, but as did it, I think it pushed the engine towards the opposite side, allowing the mount to drop down a fraction of an inch at a time. A little pry, and it moves down a bit. Repeat. Not too much muscle, but some finesse and muscle. I think it took about 10 minutes of up-and-down prying. It finally popped in.

    The end result was that both mounts' locating pins were at the top of the locating holes. No room for adjustment unless you want to start over again after grinding out the locating holes. But, as I noted in your other thread, I got really lucky, and in that position,the engine (and exhaust and transmission) were about as good as it gets. Pretty much aligned all around.
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    Last edited by boat737; 05-08-2017 at 10:00 AM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    At CraigS's suggestion, I left both block bolts and motor mount bolts a bit loose. Then I set a 2"x4" against the recalcitrant mount and gave it some medium to medium-firm whacks with a hand sledge. The engine settled right into place.

    But I haven't put my side pipes on to check the engine alignment yet.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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    So after a call to tech support. They told me to use a pry bar. This is really to document the issue for people down the road. The passenger side went in effortlessly. The driver side was the issue. Tech support told me to put a pry bar between the block and the mount. I did that... Still no joy. I stood on it... Still no joy. I walked over to the passenger side, and even though it was seated properly, I still decided to put the pry bar to the block and the top of the mount. I stood on it... Made read good contact. Took the bar, walked over to the driver side again, put the pry bar between the block and the top of the mount. Stood on it.... And Bam, it all fell into place.... I left the block bolts very loose when I did this. And after it was all in place. I bolted the mount to the frame first, on both sides, and then finished off the block mount bolts with a impact gun. Everything is nice and snug now...

  8. #8
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    For me the 2x4 and a small sledge hammer is pretty much standard procedure. Although all I have messed w/ have the Energy Suspension mounts, I suspect this would go easier w/ stock rubber mounts. I 'think' they are softer so would move more easily.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    I also had this problem. In my case, the Lakewood bellhousing was hitting the diagonal frame piece by the starter hump. I had to take a cutoff wheel and slice off about 1/4" off the outer edge of the flange of the bellhousing. The drivers side then could be coaxed down in place.

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