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Thread: Rear License Plate

  1. #41
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    image.jpeg

    Here is a picture of my relocation of the license plate.

  2. #42
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    Melb-Mike,
    Id like to see, but I have already mostly completed the J Kleiner mod. I labored over this for about a year, and I have the solenoid but decided to not use it.

    I also added the LED's and with the original bracket was simple.

    Now I just have to fit the bottom and put a hole in the plate and frame.
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  3. #43
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    I did not bother to flip the light package. I cut the slot in the plastic lenses then notched the plate enough to just miss contacting the lighting unit. A small strip of door edge guard for insulation & some silicone to reseal the light. About 20 minutes work.



    A nibbler works very well in shaping the cut on the plate. No problem seeing "North Carolina"
    Kevin
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  4. #44
    Junior Member Dave Schwaab's Avatar
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    Gumball said he used a trunk lid from Karl Gess on his Mk III. I heard of another guy who got one from Sankuer Composites.

    Are there third party suppliers who can provide an alternative trunk lid for the Mk 4?

  5. #45
    Member grluisi150's Avatar
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    Alternative

    Or you can take my approach and get rid of the handle and have a remote trunk release. Trunk release from a 95 mustang, Thanks Rex.

    Gary

    trunk 2.JPG trunck 1.JPG
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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by grluisi150 View Post
    Or you can take my approach and get rid of the handle and have a remote trunk release. Trunk release from a 95 mustang, Thanks Rex.

    Gary

    trunk 2.JPG trunck 1.JPG
    I'll be looking at this option down the road. Do you have any notes on what you had to do to get it to fit? I'm assuming you have relocated your battery to the engine compartment?
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  7. #47
    Junior Member Dave Schwaab's Avatar
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    While the idea of an electric or remote cable release sounds interesting, I think I prefer conger's idea of simply inverting the system and putting the handle in the body just below the trunk lid. No problem with dead batteries, broken cables or wire faults of any kind.

  8. #48
    Member grluisi150's Avatar
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    Battery is in a drop box in the trunk. Under the plate is a backup keyed cylinder, mechanical override if the battery dies. I had to epoxy a steel bar inside the trunk lid to bolt the trunk release to.

    Gary
    Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash

  9. #49
    Junior Member Dave Schwaab's Avatar
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    grluisi150, so you have a standard flat key opening hidden under the plate? Just move the plate out of the way and open the trunk with the key? Sounds like a simple and effective backup plan. Maybe I will have to consider that.

  10. #50
    Member grluisi150's Avatar
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    Yes, and I had a locksmith key it with the same as the hood locks.
    Gary
    Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash

  11. #51
    Junior Member Dave Schwaab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grluisi150 View Post
    So the silver piece on the right of the latch is the new key mechanism. Just loosen one screw and swing the plate out of the way to get access for the key, if it should become necessary. Looking like a pretty good option. Thanks.

  12. #52
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    For those who are removing or relocating the handle, how are you lifting the trunk lid once it's released? The handles also serves this purpose, and without it, not sure what you'd grab to lift the lid. Once it's finished, the trunk lid is surprisingly heavy, plus it's hinged from the opposite edge. So you have to lift nearly the entire weight when opening. Gas assist struts are possible, but the ones normally used barely hold the lid when open, let alone provide all that much lift assist. It would be possible to use stronger struts, but even in using the standard ones I've found it challenging to get the hinges aligned and the lid closed/flush with the body. The struts pushing against the hinges even while closed doesn't play nice in my experience. I didn't use struts on my last build. Bottom line, very common for changes to affect something else. You almost never can make one change in isolation. The pluses and minuses must be considered.

    To the OP, my only comment after following this thread is wait until you get into the build. If this bothers you, I'm wondering how you're going to react to the DS door alignment (or should I say lack of...), the asymmetrical body, radiator mounting, windshield mounting, instrument panel mounting, wiring, side pipe alignment, the list could go on. There are challenges with these build. This isn't one of the big ones IMO.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-25-2017 at 04:40 PM.
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  13. #53
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Sorry if it offends anyone I can't watch without comment any longer. This is a 20 minute fix and then you can move on to real challenges. Some of you guys are making it much harder than it needs to be. Good luck with whatever route you take.

    Jeff

  14. #54
    Junior Member Dave Schwaab's Avatar
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    Jeff, I meant no offense when I started this thread, and I take no offense from your comments. Your solution IS simple and quick. I can readily understand why so many builders have chosen to follow your example. In fact, I may end up joining the group, since I have found and saved your thread on the other forum.

    I was just hoping that I could find a way to mount the plate without drawing the ire of any LEO's for "altering" it with notches or "hiding" it under the light. And I'm doing this all before I have even ordered my kit, just so I have it in my build plan. Truth is, until I actually have a kit and try to fit a plate, I won't know exactly how I am going to do it. But I do appreciate everyone's help and suggestions.

    Thanks.

  15. #55
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Sorry if it offends anyone I can't watch without comment any longer. This is a 20 minute fix and then you can move on to real challenges. Some of you guys are making it much harder than it needs to be. Good luck with whatever route you take.

    Jeff
    Hey Jeff. I assume you saw my post at about the same time as yours. I was feeling the same way, so you weren't the only one. Just took me more words to say it.

    Imagine that.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-25-2017 at 07:48 PM.
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  16. #56
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Imagine that.


    Jeff

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  17. #57
    Member grluisi150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    For those who are removing or relocating the handle, how are you lifting the trunk lid once it's released? The handles also serves this purpose, and without it, not sure what you'd grab to lift the lid. Once it's finished, the trunk lid is surprisingly heavy, plus it's hinged from the opposite edge. So you have to lift nearly the entire weight when opening. Gas assist struts are possible, but the ones normally used barely hold the lid when open, let alone provide all that much lift assist. It would be possible to use stronger struts, but even in using the standard ones I've found it challenging to get the hinges aligned and the lid closed/flush with the body. The struts pushing against the hinges even while closed doesn't play nice in my experience. I didn't use struts on my last build. Bottom line, very common for changes to affect something else. You almost never can make one change in isolation. The pluses and minuses must be considered.

    To the OP, my only comment after following this thread is wait until you get into the build. If this bothers you, I'm wondering how you're going to react to the DS door alignment (or should I say lack of...), the asymmetrical body, radiator mounting, windshield mounting, instrument panel mounting, wiring, side pipe alignment, the list could go on. There are challenges with these build. This isn't one of the big ones IMO.

    Not a problem, I used gas struts. I went with 40 pound struts They lift the trunk 3/4 way by themselves and their very little weight to use the light fixture to raise the trunk lid all the way. The gas struts make it simple to install a switch on for internal trunk lights. 40 pound struts have minimal effect on the lid shape.

    Gary
    Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash

  18. #58
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grluisi150 View Post
    Not a problem, I used gas struts. I went with 40 pound struts They lift the trunk 3/4 way by themselves and their very little weight to use the light fixture to raise the trunk lid all the way. The gas struts make it simple to install a switch on for internal trunk lights. 40 pound struts have minimal effect on the lid shape.

    Gary
    Sounds like you have it sorted out and a good setup. Great. Quick clarification. My point about the gas struts had nothing to do with the lid shape. My experience with the Mk4 style struts that push on the hinges, assuming that's what you have, is they make it hard to align the hinges. Maybe I'm the only one that had this issue. But for #7750, I never was able to get the hinges adjusted to keep the struts from pushing the edge of the trunk lid above the body opening. It's pretty subtle, but something that always bothered me. Enough that I didn't use struts on my last build.
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  19. #59
    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with gas struts. Either they were two week to hold the lid open or so strong that they pushed the lid up and the lines were no longer smooth. With the stronger struts, If I did not lock the trunk, the vibration would work it open and the struts would open the trunk lid. No fun on a busy highway.
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  20. #60
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    ...My experience with the Mk4 style struts that push on the hinges, assuming that's what you have, is they make it hard to align the hinges. Maybe I'm the only one that had this issue...
    You are not alone my friend. I've encountered it on a few cars and in fact just heard from an owner who added them to a car I did for him a couple of years ago---same thing; when the struts are off the lid aligns perfectly but with them on the hinge arm is loaded in such a way that the forward lip goes up. I told him that I'll work on adjusting it at LCS.

    Jeff

  21. #61
    Junior Member Dave Schwaab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Sounds like you have it sorted out and a good setup. Great. Quick clarification. My point about the gas struts had nothing to do with the lid shape. My experience with the Mk4 style struts that push on the hinges, assuming that's what you have, is they make it hard to align the hinges. Maybe I'm the only one that had this issue. But for #7750, I never was able to get the hinges adjusted to keep the struts from pushing the edge of the trunk lid above the body opening. It's pretty subtle, but something that always bothered me. Enough that I didn't use struts on my last build.
    So. It was subtle. And yet, it always bothered you. You DO get it! That's exactly the way the plate issue has always bothered me.

    Again, I apologize for any feathers I have ruffled in starting this thread, but I am just trying to find the best solution to incorporate into my build plan.

    I understand that in the original design, the "T" handle was used to lift the trunk lid. But when you use a remote release, you don't really need the struts to be so strong as to lift the lid all the way, or even most of the way, up. All you really need is sufficient lift to get your fingers under the edge of the trunk lid so you can lift it just as if you were using the handle. Seems to me, that kind of strength should not make the set up adjustments that difficult. Anybody have a different solution to getting that initial lift of the lid?

  22. #62
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grluisi150 View Post
    Not a problem, I used gas struts. I went with 40 pound struts They lift the trunk 3/4 way by themselves and their very little weight to use the light fixture to raise the trunk lid all the way. The gas struts make it simple to install a switch on for internal trunk lights. 40 pound struts have minimal effect on the lid shape.

    Gary
    Same here with the struts.

    As to the 20 minute job, some of us just like to mess with stuff because it may be neat , especially if it takes more time and takes some figuring-out.
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  23. #63
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    Anyone having concerns about using gas struts attached to the MK IV trunk hinges should consider Mike Everson's earlier design trunk strut kit. While more visible attached to the underside of the trunk lid, they don't have the alignment issues the later design (attaching to interior hinges) has caused for some. I have used them on both MK III and MK IV trunk lids (both fit with hidden trunk hinges) without any issues. They also free up storage space in the front trunk area.

    Sean
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  24. #64
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Found that if you just snug them up enough to hold their position you can close the lid then push down on it to get it aligned. The open it just enough to get your hand & a wench on the nuts. Tighten as much as you van then open it further to finish tightening them.

    Don't remember how many pounds the struts are but they are just strong enough to hold the lid up in a breeze & will not lift the lid from its closed position.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 05-27-2017 at 08:37 PM.
    Kevin
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  25. #65
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    How did we get from Rear License Plate to trunk hinges?

    That said, concerning the gas struts on the MK4 hinge, the whole weight of the trunk lid (and plate and light) is articulated on those 4 little 1/4 inch bolts that attach the hinge to the trunk lid. I don't know how much the fiberglass structure is beefed up and strengthened at that mounting point, but it better be substantial. That's probably why in the closed position, the struts and hinge are pushing and deforming the mounting point. Strengthen that mounting pad, and alignment problem should diminish or go away.
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  26. #66
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Hey Jeff. I assume you saw my post at about the same time as yours. I was feeling the same way, so you weren't the only one. Just took me more words to say it.

    Imagine that.
    Hahaha. But can't let it go.

  27. #67
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    Hahaha. But can't let it go.
    Reported. Enough already.
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  28. #68
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    Solution. Put the trunk on a electric solenoid and do away with the trunk handle.

  29. #69
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    Hey, I know this thread is old but thanks for the info...

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Agreed the issue still exists. Nothing has changed since the Mk4 was introduced. This is discussed a lot. I wouldn't say there's an accepted solution. There are many and you can decide which works best for you. I personally wouldn't consider a Mk3 trunk lid as a solution. The profile of the Mk4 looks a lot better IMO. But beyond that the hinges are completely different. The Mk3 uses external hinges. The Mk4 uses internal and much improved hinges. Pretty big price to pay to fit a license plate.

    I've personally done the license plate notch twice. Known around here as the "Kleiner mod." Wiring or light issues aren't a big concern in my experience. My first Mk4 I left the supplied incandescent bulbs and it always worked fine. My second, recently completed, I switched the incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs. A really nice mod copied from another forum member. MAL-S-WW2 Warm White with Silver Housing, LED license plate bolt lights from superbrightleds.com. Not only do they provide better light, longer life, and lower current draw, they are sealed and water is not an issue. The lights need to modded anyway, so it's really easy just to replace them with the LED's. These are pics from my build. Also requires the different mounting bracket shown, an easy fab from a piece of aluminum.



    Hey, I know this thread is old but thanks for the info and pix. Did you need to do anything to regulate the power to the LEDs?

  30. #70
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzweasel View Post
    Hey, I know this thread is old but thanks for the info and pix. Did you need to do anything to regulate the power to the LEDs?
    Nope. They work just fine on the +12V chassis wiring.
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