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Thread: Control arm hardware

  1. #1

    Control arm hardware

    I'm using donor control arms on my Mk4 base kit. I was assuming I need to supply the attaching bolts, but I noticed the build manual says "87-93 - Mount the lower control arms using the outer set of holes on the chassis using the supplied hardware" I can't find any bolts in the front suspension box, so I think it is a misprint in the manual. Just figured I would ask if I am missing something. It would be nice if they came with the kit as I don't have them. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Look carefully at your packing list to see if they're listed. There should also be a backorder sheet, check that as well. Those bolts should be in the kit. Whether they fit the donor bushings is another matter I don't know the answer.

  3. #3
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    As I think about your situation, if you didn't order the control arms from FF, the bolts may not be included.

  4. #4
    Thanks Pete. They are not in there. I picked up some grade 8 5/8" bolts today. In hindsight, I should have just gotten new control arms. I changed the bushings and ball joints in the donor arms. I haven't said that many swear words in a long time.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Yeah, Suspension bushings are no fun, pia no matter what they're pressed into. Take a deep breath and chill when things get frustrating.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    I used donor control arms also, be sure when you drill the lower control arm hole for the mounting of the coil overs to drill that hole as far back on the lower control arm as is workable. If you don't your tie rods will make contact with the springs

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by clancypm View Post
    I used donor control arms also, be sure when you drill the lower control arm hole for the mounting of the coil overs to drill that hole as far back on the lower control arm as is workable. If you don't your tie rods will make contact with the springs
    My donors from an 89 Mustang already had the holes in them. Hopefully they are in the right spot. I'll find out soon enough. BTW, I'm using FFR manual rack, if that makes a difference.

  8. #8
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    not sure if that makes a difference, I'm using power rack

  9. #9
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clancypm View Post
    I used donor control arms also, be sure when you drill the lower control arm hole for the mounting of the coil overs to drill that hole as far back on the lower control arm as is workable. If you don't your tie rods will make contact with the springs
    "My donors from an 89 Mustang already had the holes in them. Hopefully they are in the right spot."

    I think Ford put that hole there to act as a drain? It works for the bracket. You will still need to grind out some material from that pocket in the donor arm, for the lower shock bolt bracket. (Not my picture)



    Another way to help prevent that issue when using the donor lower arms, is to cut new sleeves for the shock mounting bolts upper and lower, so that it moves the shock rearward slightly. The supplied sleeves are the same length, but you want one longer, and one shorter. The longer sleeve goes on the front.

    That, and using steering rack limiters, can prevent the tie rods from being contacted.

    Not my picture but you can see how this builder has a longer sleeve on the upper shock mounting bolt, to move the shock rearward slightly..
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    "My donors from an 89 Mustang already had the holes in them. Hopefully they are in the right spot."

    I think Ford put that hole there to act as a drain? It works for the bracket. You will still need to grind out some material from that pocket in the donor arm, for the lower shock bolt bracket. (Not my picture)



    Another way to help prevent that issue when using the donor lower arms, is to cut new sleeves for the shock mounting bolts upper and lower, so that it moves the shock rearward slightly. The supplied sleeves are the same length, but you want one longer, and one shorter. The longer sleeve goes on the front.

    That, and using steering rack limiters, can prevent the tie rods from being contacted.

    Not my picture but you can see how this builder has a longer sleeve on the upper shock mounting bolt, to move the shock rearward slightly..
    Thanks for the info Bill. I have the suspension put together and installed the rack. The tie rods are definitely close to the springs, but I think it may get better once the upper control arms are adjusted. Is there anyway to get a rough setting on the control arm turnbuckles? I don't have wheels yet so the suspension is hanging. I can eyeball some positive camber, but not sure on the caster. It's tough to tell with the offset Mustang spindles. The way I have it now, each side seems to bind when I turn it out, but turning in is smooth.

  11. #11

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