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Thread: Hot Rod Heat/Sound Insulation Kit

  1. #1

    Hot Rod Heat/Sound Insulation Kit

    Has anyone used the: 33989 - Hot Rod Heat/Sound Insulation Kit ($349), is it worth getting with the 50% off over 5,000 sale going on now?

    Thanks

    Bill

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bourne-Cape Cod, MA
    Posts
    352
    Quote Originally Posted by CVOBill View Post
    Has anyone used the: 33989 - Hot Rod Heat/Sound Insulation Kit ($349), is it worth getting with the 50% off over 5,000 sale going on now?

    Thanks

    Bill
    I have always advocated for fat mat. However- I was involved in the steel body hot rod build at Barret Jackson and we used this insulation kit. I was very impressed with the fit of the pieces as well as how easy it is to work with. If I was building a hot rod I would absolutely order this.


    I wish it was available for the roadster. It is excellent .
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply.

    Bill

  4. #4
    At 50% off you cant go wrong. You may want more in additional places depending on your build, but, if you price the equivalent that you have to cut yourself its very reasonable.

  5. #5
    I just saw your response Erlihemi Thanks

    Bill

  6. #6

    Angry

    I have it my not quite finished 33. The issue I have with it is that it does not provide a layer of foam to go on the floors under the carpet. I am running the sbf with the ffr mufflers. I do not have room between the floor and the mufflers to install a heat shield so I wrapped them with heat wrap from the firewall back to outlet of the mufflers. It was 98 degrees yesterday when I went for my brake and lamp check. After 40 minutes at 60 mph, the passenger floor was over 130 degrees, driver side was 120. That's with carpet over black heat insulation on driver side and no carpet, just black insulation on pass side. Obviously I am going to have to rip out the carpet and put something more on the floors because the black material is not cutting it for me . Even with AC, this setup will be way to hot to endure this summer when the temps are always over 100 mid afternoon. Then I will look into doing something with the darn mufflers that are too thick to provide clearance for shields. Ain't life grand?

  7. #7

    I didn't use the FFR mufflers so I didn't run into that issue. I do have heat barrier under the floor above the exhaust. It's that heavy aluminum with insulation sandwiched against the floor. I used fat head rivets in a few places in addition to the adhesive. I like to keep the exhaust bare and use airflow to move the heat. Haven't run down south yet, but on my other cars I have used silver high temp paint effectively to reflect radiant heat. Now we have lizard skin and other products. I forget what I used under the carpet, but I also double layered the firewall with thick mat. I may need to check on one of the pipe vendors I work with. We had some stuff you could set on a hot plate and not burn your hand. It's about rate of heat transfer. Once you saturate the insulation you still need to move the heat away. Either spread out the contact area or get air movement. Insulating the muffler only keeps the heat in for a little while and then heat soak has to move someplace.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Shawnee KS< KC Burb
    Posts
    702
    I made new floor pans from .125 AL and coated them with lizard skin on the bottom and I will use DEI heat mat under the carpet. I also made a
    secondary firewall and insulated between the layers to control heat and to hide my AC lines up to the VA unit. I am still thinking about notching
    and boxing the chassis tubes where the pipes pass through them so I can drop the longer muffs I used a bit further away from the floor panels.

    BS
    You should look at the newer mufflers that control heat better before you tear out that interior. Sorry I don't recall the name of them but there
    is a thread about it somewhere.
    DB

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