I don't thing he is selling then anymore. I need a pair for my Mk4. Does someone else make these?
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I don't thing he is selling then anymore. I need a pair for my Mk4. Does someone else make these?
Hi Marcello. Finish Line Accessories. https://www.**********accessories.co...ent-ducts.aspx They have the screens as well.
Or I have the one's that Cobra Earl had in his kit (it has 2 ports, one of which is molded in capped off). I have both, but I don't know which ones I will be using yet.
Last edited by boat737; 05-31-2017 at 02:17 AM.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Thank you very much. I think the ********** accessories will work. Warning about Alex's Custom Wheel Well Liners to come later.
What is happening in my application is that the fender liner is being blown into the front tire. Per Alex's installation instruction, the only thing holding the front of the liners in place is the small L bracket secured to the liner and the frame. On the outer fender side of things there is no provision for securing it. The reason I do not want to issue a warning is that the problem may be caused by my radiator aluminum. I made all new radiator aluminum for my build. The front side of the radiator is completely sealed all the way around. There are no openings on the front near the quick jacks nor at the top near the hood opening. The way I see it is the brake duct opening aim right at the front of the fender liners. There is only one small gap on the radiator side for the air to escape. At higher speeds the cavity in front of the fender liners is becoming pressurized and pushing the liner out of position and into my front tires. I am installing the ********** brake duct adapters and capping them off. I think this may give everything a more finished look and eliminate the pressure issue.
Hi Marcell:
I to will be installing Alex's fender liners soon. Good info you passed on. Thank-you. Regarding the brake duct adapters, did you get the air-duct mesh
with your adapters? If not, I found the same mesh at Walmart in the barbeque section. You get three disposable grill toppers for $4.00. I have made
two oil cooler opening grills out of one topper. Secure with a bead of silicone. Just a Idea for you or anybody else to cover the openings.
Mack
I also have Alex's fender liners going in my build. The bracket provided is way undersized for the job in my opinion. I bought larger 90 degree brackets and bolted them to the lower 3/4 tube and they extend nearly the full width of the liner. Also made new aluminum pieces to protect the radiator sides. Seems like it's just asking for trouble without them.
JRL16
Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.
The fender liners don't make contact with the body on their top. There is a gap there so the air would move through easily there. Don't know if your front splash aprons totally seal but most don't. Also don't know if you sealed the gap between the body and engine compartment 3/4 tube. Usually a pretty good gap there. I don't think it's so much a pressure build up but just a too small bracket that comes with the kit. I did trim my liners so they set on the body in the front. They're about 2 inches so all downward force is on the body and not the bracket.
JRL16
Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.
The way I secured mine was to add a brake line clip to one of the signal light bolts, then put two holes in the wheel liner, which I put a zip tie through and secured it to the clip. It works. I came up with the idea because I didn't feel like it was secured well enough with the little bracket. 5600 miles now and no problems.
Mk 4 roadster #8495 delivered on 12-23-2014. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-Build-Thread Carbureted 4.6 SOHC, C-4 auto with manual valve body. Fox width rear with 2.73 gear. First start video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8ie...ature=youtu.be