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Thread: Torquing Castle Nuts

  1. #1
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Torquing Castle Nuts

    Has anyone else had issues with clearance while try to torque the castle nuts? Seems like there is not enough space for a socket and torque wrench. Or am I just trying the wrong combination?

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  2. #2
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    If there is not enough space, would a crow foot adapter fit? That will lengthen the lever arm and requires a reduction of the torque setting.

    The exact torque is really not critical, since you have to stop turning the nut when it aligns with the cotter pin hole. Try tightening some other large nut to the desired torque, then see what that feels like with an ordinary open or closed end wrench. With a shorter wrench, you might have to pull about as hard as you can. As long as you're close to the proper torque and the hole lines up, you should be OK.

    For those nuts that you can reach. Try torqueing under a little, like 70 instead of 90, then change the setting to 80 and see how much you have to turn the nut to increase the torque to 80. Then you'll get a feel for how tight is tight enough. If you crank a nut up to 90 and it doesn't line up, you'll have to back the nut up part of a notch or over-torque to the next notch.
    Last edited by DaveS53; 06-03-2017 at 02:56 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Is this for the upper ball joint on the spindle?
    Some fellows have cut a socket shorter, others use a claw foot wrench. Similar to this example.


    "The torque value will be the same as long as the crows foot is off to the left or right at 90 deg. If you have it pointing straight out or backward you must calculate for the added or subtracted length which in turn will change torque value".

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