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Thread: Richey's 33 build by wallace18

  1. #41
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Finished up the passenger side exhaust. I made a heat shield for the e-brk. Started on wiring. Wired up instrument panel, ignition switch and light switch. Also electric P/S and EFI. Still more to debut taking weekend off.

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  2. #42
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I finished up air intake and pcv system. I started engine. Runs great! Good oil pressure and fan comes on at 195 as per GM computer. I am going to use RF fan relay for A/C fan circuit. I am adding muffler heat shields also. 32 days from getting kit from Richey the thing runs. I could go-cart if I had wheels and tires. LOL.

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  3. #43
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    You are the man Tom!

    Its amazing how quickly you work on these cars, and at such a high quality to boot!!

    I really admire your work, well done Sir!

    Regards,

    Steve

  4. #44
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Finished up the passenger side muffler heat shield. I installed a charcoal canister and plumbed it to the roll over valve. I evacuated and charged the A/C, blows 48 degrees F. I installed the insulation in the cockpit area. Also wire up fan relay so the fan comes on with the A/C.

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  5. #45
    Could you show (pictures) how you plumb the heater control valve into the the AC unit.

    Thanks,
    Bob

  6. #46
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dodgeman View Post
    Could you show (pictures) how you plumb the heater control valve into the the AC unit.

    Thanks,
    Bob
    Look at post 25 it is right there.

  7. #47
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Installed the fuel rail covers today, sure makes it look a lot better, IMO. I started on the body and did cut outs for gauges, A/C vents, defrost vents and front access holes. Ran into a weird problem. Every day the fuel line up front near the firewall was wet but smelled like oil not gas. I found out the nipple on the bottom of the clutch fluid reservoir was leaking. Not welded properly. I ended up using JB weld to fix it. Sure through me for a loop for awhile, LOL.

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  8. #48
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    I found out the nipple on the bottom of the clutch fluid reservoir was leaking. Not welded properly. I ended up using JB weld to fix it. Sure through me for a loop for awhile, LOL.
    I have noticed "seapage" around the top of the reservoirs as well, but no issues with the bottom (yet). I have wiped the top ledges several times only to go back and see fluid sitting around the cap. I now keep the fluid below that level as before I had it all the way to the top.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  9. #49
    Senior Member DaveS53's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Finished up the passenger side muffler heat shield. I installed a charcoal canister and plumbed it to the roll over valve. I evacuated and charged the A/C, blows 48 degrees F. I installed the insulation in the cockpit area. Also wire up fan relay so the fan comes on with the A/C.
    Did you install a trinary switch in the high pressure side of the AC? That's the proper way. The switch will turn the fan on when the pressure gets higher than desired, then shuts the compressor off, it it get too high. The fan should not run all the time, just because the AC is on.

  10. #50
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveS53 View Post
    Did you install a trinary switch in the high pressure side of the AC? That's the proper way. The switch will turn the fan on when the pressure gets higher than desired, then shuts the compressor off, it it get too high. The fan should not run all the time, just because the AC is on.
    I beg to differ with you. You are entitled to your opinion for sure, but here in FL they need to run when the A/C is on. I have used the trinary switch and had heat issues in the past. It is much cooler and dryer air there in CO for sure. I have the compressor tied into the trinary but not the fan.

  11. #51
    Senior Member DaveS53's Avatar
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    At least you have the compressor protected with high pressure shut down. That's the main thing. Vintage air says that you should be able to get 36-46 degree air from the center vent. I have no trouble getting below 40.

  12. #52
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Good Job Tom, but could you speed it up a little!

    to get serious, keep up the good work, I'm sure Richey will be pleased with it.
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  13. #53
    Where did you get the air cleaner and the rest of the intake setup? I am building basically the same setup. Yours sound great. Keep up the good work.

  14. #54
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlar View Post
    Where did you get the air cleaner and the rest of the intake setup? I am building basically the same setup. Yours sound great. Keep up the good work.
    Summit, but it was al Spectre parts.

  15. #55
    Do you happen to have the part numbers of the spectre intake system that you have. I went to Summit and try to find a similar setup but they have hundreds from Spectre. Thanks for any info you have.

  16. #56
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Been waiting for Richey to bring me wheels, tires and lug nuts. I met him half way from his home today at 5PM. All 4 are US Mags 18x9.5 with 245/40 ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires. I still need to get lug nuts then I can do alignment and go-cart. I did make the 2" risers for both seats today.

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  17. #57
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlar View Post
    Do you happen to have the part numbers of the spectre intake system that you have. I went to Summit and try to find a similar setup but they have hundreds from Spectre. Thanks for any info you have.

    spe-9785
    spe-9718
    spe-8132

  18. #58
    Tom did you raise the seat 2" front and rear? I was thinking about raising the front 1.5" and the rear 1/4" more of a wedge like I did on my Cobra years ago. If so is that how you did your car when you built it? I'm actually planning on mounting my seats tonight.

    Thanks
    CVOBill

    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 Unassembled from original owner. Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote, TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK1 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003
    5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005

  19. #59
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVOBill View Post
    Tom did you raise the seat 2" front and rear? I was thinking about raising the front 1.5" and the rear 1/4" more of a wedge like I did on my Cobra years ago. If so is that how you did your car when you built it? I'm actually planning on mounting my seats tonight.

    Thanks
    2" all around

  20. #60
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Got the lug nuts and did the alignment, go-carted car and calibrated the speedo. All came out great! Car is super fast, but very nice to cruz in. But you can see how quick this car is for sure.

    Last edited by wallace18; 08-01-2017 at 02:31 PM.

  21. #61
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Installed the body using my 12V ceiling winch. Installed 1/4-20 firewall button head bolts, side panel screws using 10-32 drill/tap on sides and 10-32 button head screws with rubber backed washers. I used large S/S fender washers and 5/8 button head bolts for the rear fender mounts. Everything lined up great once I got my measurements all done. I traced out the top hinge cutouts. I am going to use this series of videos to mount doors. I also tried fuel filler hose to fit filler neck.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...a-5-part-video

    This is a very good way to get good results.

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  22. #62
    How much of a gap do you have under the body to frame sill plate? its looking good and you are really building this one quick.

    bob

  23. #63
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dodgeman View Post
    How much of a gap do you have under the body to frame sill plate? its looking good and you are really building this one quick.

    bob
    around a 1/2" or less.

  24. #64
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I did the door hinge cutouts and mounted the door striker. I also installed the brass bushings. Do yourself a favor and glue these in place using the pin for alignment. It will save you a lot of time and headaches, LOL. I use a washer on the top and bottom of the door hinge pin. This will allow you to get a good fit and little to no slop in the hinge assembly. I started to fit the drivers door. Lots of grinding with the belt sander to get a fit that works. Hope to finish up the driver door tomorrow.

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    Last edited by wallace18; 08-03-2017 at 03:03 PM.

  25. #65
    Thanks for the numbers. It will sure make it easier.

  26. #66
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today was door day, LOL. I am 90% done with mounting the drivers door. It opens and closes fine. Still needs adjustment and slight trimming. I did mock up the power window motors and brackets for both sides. I also payed the hood in place. I wanted to see how different the extra clearance hood looks vs the normal one. Taking the weekend off and Monday as well.
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    The door latches are different than in the manual. You just use the one hole for the pin and mount the clevis on the opposite side to the clevis for the outside door handle. Thanks, Tony!

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  27. #67
    I like the vintage air front runner system because it has A/C compressor and alternator, but are the balancer and water pump necessary for the whole system to work? I thought the LS3 connect and cruise system had balancer and water pump already installed.

  28. #68
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supergas489 View Post
    I like the vintage air front runner system because it has A/C compressor and alternator, but are the balancer and water pump necessary for the whole system to work? I thought the LS3 connect and cruise system had balancer and water pump already installed.
    Yes they come with the kit. The system uses LS1 pump so the LS3 pump and pulley will not work .

  29. #69
    Senior Member DaveS53's Avatar
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    The cheapest accessory drive that you can put together uses a Cadillac CTS drive, with an Alan Grove compressor mount. It will work with the LS3 water pump and stock balancer.

    You'll have a low mount compressor and alternator. You will have to figure out the belt length.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...362#post283362

    The documents for the GM 19299070 drive list all the parts in the kit, so it is possible to skip the unneeded power steering pump, but buying the other parts separately might actually cost more.

    http://paceperformance.com/i-6485404...6-engines.html
    Last edited by DaveS53; 08-06-2017 at 09:30 AM.

  30. #70
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I finished the passenger door. Went much easier that drivers side, LOL. I started to trim the trunk so I can mount it and get final gap trimming. Also mocked up rear tail lights. Coming along very nice. Had to quit a 2:30 today, 98 degrees in the shop with a 106 heat index. I try to do most of my work in the AM.

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  31. #71
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Finished up the trunk. I use 10-24 screws and install 10-24 rivnuts to the latch bracket instead of using rivets as per the manual. I started on the nose cone. I use 1/4-20 rivnuts to mount the tie pontoons. Then I use 10-32 screws to mount nosecone to grill. Still have some trimming to do.

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  32. #72
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Finished up the nose cone. Installed the hood using 3 quick latches. Next up is the waterfall. I have to remove doors for that, Rats, LOL.

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  33. #73
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Well what I call the waterfall, FFR calls it the rear cockpit cover, LOL. I would like to share a tip on how to get easy hole in the waterfall for your roll bar. Get 2 boards long enough to go from the rear deck to the front dash area. Drill a 1.5" hole over the area of the roll bar bottom on the chassis. Place the roll bar thru the boards and use a hole in the front, I used one of my defrost vent holes and drill another where the top or rear surround cover would be. This puts the boards in the correct position. Now remove the roll bar and install your trimmed and screwed in waterfall (cockpit cover). Place the boards back in position with your holes. I used 3/16 drill bits and 1/4-20 screws up front. Now place the roll bar thru the boards and now you can trace exactly where the roll bar will go thru the waterfall. Remove and drill. You may have to trim slightly but it comes out very nice each time. I hope this is a help to some new builders. I also started on the side panels. My customer want them very ope to show off his engine. I still have to trim them up near the grill some.

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  34. #74
    Senior Member DaveS53's Avatar
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    Good job on the holes for the roll bar. FFR isn't bashful about putting items that may need maintenance (fuel pump and related items) behind a panel that will be a real pain to remove when the car is fully assembled.

    I can get to my filter/regulator from below the car and remove access panels in the trunk for the fuel pump in about 5 minutes.

  35. #75
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Normally I do not work on Saturdays. I was so close to finishing up the side panels and hood I had to work some today. I did finish up the sides and hood. I had Marsha, my lovely wife help me set the top on just to see it on the car. Lots of work to do on that for sure. Richey the customer will come by Monday to see car. I am sure he will be blown away. I hope to have car ready to go to paint shop by the end of the month.

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  36. #76
    Tom, that's amazing. You gave yourself 180 days and you'll be done in half of that!

  37. #77
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I set the roll bar height with the top on. Then I drilled the holes for the roll bar pins. I then reinstalled the waterfall. I mounted 2 - 1/8" steel plates for the seats to bolt down to. Richey the customer I am building this car came by and was all smiles. He is very happy with the progress and can't wait to drive it. I took a picture of him sitting in the car. **** Do not make the same mistake I did with the A/C vent locations. I drilled the holes according to the manual instructions with the body off. Unfortunately for me the measurements only work if you have a cable clutch not a Hydraulic one. I will need to drill new holes and use the plugs from them to fill the first ones I made. Hopefully I can save someone else from making the same mistake.

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  38. #78
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Tom what did you use to attach the steel plates for the seats to the frame?

  39. #79
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Yes to the frame.

  40. #80
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    I'm sorry , my question wasn't clear. Did you weld it , bolt it rivit it, the method of attachment?

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