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Thread: Richey's 33 build by wallace18

  1. #1
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Richey's 33 build by wallace18

    Had a really nice fellow Richey call me a few weeks ago. Seems he bought a 33 kit back in 4/27/16. He has had it in his very large carport since delivery. He met a guy at a car show who gave him my business card. We talked on the phone and he came by to see my MK4, GTM build and shop. He decided to have me build his 33 for him. I had him order all the parts that do not come with the kit, while I get my GTM running in go-cart stage. He now has everything but wheels and tires. He promises to have them shortly. I most likely will go get everything in the next few days, start inventory and the build. Here is what he ordered. Should be a really cool car when done.
    From FFR-
    33 complete kit
    powder coat frame
    Hard top with P/W
    LS install kit
    leather seats
    3-link
    extra clearance hood
    sound insulation kit
    chrome tilt column
    hot rod A/C kit
    Power windows and door handles
    front and rear Wilwood brakes
    electric P/S
    LS manifolds

    From other vendors
    Connect and cruise LS3 E-rod 495 HP with 6 spd manual
    Boyd fuel tank
    Vintage air front runner system
    Replicaparts fan shroud
    XS power battery

  2. #2
    Sounds like a great build, Tom. I'll be coming by soon to check out the GTM! Eric
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  3. #3
    Tom,

    Looking forward to "Richey's 33 build by wallace18" posts.

    Neil

  4. #4
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Went up to Richey's with my friends Art and Jerry. We loaded everything up in about an hour and I have it back to my shop now. Engine went in pick-up bed all the rest in the trailer. Most likely take a few days to inventory everything. Should be a fun build. Stay tuned! LOL.

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  5. #5
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Friday afternoon My buddy Jerry helped me with inventory. We got about 80% done. Some stuff missing, but most is there. Today I unloaded the body and chassis. Also unloaded the LS3. Spent most of the day pressure washing a years worth of residue off the parts that were exposed to the weather. Also did some more inventory work. Here is some photos.

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    Last edited by wallace18; 06-28-2017 at 05:42 AM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    This afternoon I did get the chassis on the lift. Unfortunately a year exposed to the elements did not fair well with some parts. Lots of rust also some powder coat came off of the frame. I will touch it all up with rust encapsulator and paint. Other parts will get powder coated black . I did wired brush the Moser rear and paint the rusty stuff, looks better , IMO. Uncrated the LS3 E-Rod. Very cool!

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    Last edited by wallace18; 06-24-2017 at 02:53 PM.

  7. #7
    How long are you expecting the build to take? You experienced guys seem to knock out everything PDQ!
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  8. #8
    Why did he need the extra clearance hood, for a ls install ?

  9. #9
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    I get 180 days in my contract to get car ready for paint. Usually takes less time, unless there is a parts hold up.

    Not sure why the hood was ordered. I was not involved in the kit order a year ago.

  10. #10
    Interesting that the banana-bar on the rear end looks like it is welded on, instead of bolted ?

  11. #11
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bakerboerne View Post
    Interesting that the banana-bar on the rear end looks like it is welded on, instead of bolted ?
    It is! that is the way he got it. Unfortunately Moser cut off the top ears so I can't install the extra bracket from Vintage Performance Motorcars.

    Richey came by today to drop off manual and radiator shroud from Replicaparts.

    I sent email to FFR about a few missing parts I found finishing up inventory.
    Last edited by wallace18; 06-25-2017 at 02:53 PM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Spent almost all morning gathering misc. stuff for the build. I did have time this afternoon to get the rust off of 3 control arms, painted them with rust encapsulator and then VHT gloss epoxy black suspension paint. I also got about 85% of the chassis aluminum drilled and clikoed in place. Also mocked up Boyd fuel tank mounting.

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    Last edited by wallace18; 06-28-2017 at 05:43 AM.

  13. #13
    Is there any reason not to bring the boyd tank closer to the front? You have to nip off part of the back ears the way you have it. I don't have my stage 2 yet so not sure how far forward the tank can go without hitting the waterfall.

  14. #14
    Speedway sells a nice LS Fuel Filter/Fuel Regulator Kit # 91012800 It uses the AN fitting adaptors with screw on nuts (wanted to keep the 58 psi gas in the hose). I mounted it under the tank to keep the return line short. Then bought a 3/8 inch steel fuel line to go up to fuel rail on the drivers side. Also you will have to replace the lower rad. hose bib ... I got one that rotates to any position. Can't tell from your pict what oil pan you got. Some configurations have the oil filter/sump up front some have them in the back. If up front it comes real close to the round cross member... you should take the filter off when putting the engine in.

  15. #15
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    I always trim the ears. I like the tank back as far as I can get it for weight reasons. Thanks for the advice on the fuel stuff.

  16. #16
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I finished up refinishing the upper control arms, rear trunk aluminum, installed rivnuts for fuel tank and finished up the rear end and 3-link install. I like the modifications FFR made to this part since my 33 build 4 years ago. 3- link bars are way better IMO.

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    Last edited by wallace18; 06-28-2017 at 05:45 AM.

  17. #17
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I installed the firewall and engine turned it. I also made up the front hubs and installed the front upper control arms. I used 10-32 button head screws for the firewall. Take your time making sure all lines up correct. It is normal to trim all pieces some to make it right. I also installed the Wilwood pedal box. I have to order the clutch master cylinder.

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  18. #18

    Lift type

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Today I installed the firewall and engine turned it. I also made up the front hubs and installed the front upper control arms. I used 10-32 button head screws for the firewall. Take your time making sure all lines up correct. It is normal to trim all pieces some to make it right. I also installed the Wilwood pedal box. I have to order the clutch master cylinder.

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    Wallace818,
    I'm thinking about a lift for my shop. Was thinking of a 4 post and noticed you use a 2 post. Which would you recommend?

  19. #19
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    For building cars the 2 post is best IMO. For storing and oil changes the 4 post. I have both and that is how I use each one.

  20. #20
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I mounted the steering rack, steering column and rear Wilwood brakes. Also mocked up E-brake handle and what I could on lower control arms. Still waiting on FFR parts to come. Should be here tomorrow. I noticed my Wilwood caliper mounted different than most 8.8's. Maybe because it is a Moser?

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    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by wallace18; 06-29-2017 at 04:12 PM.

  21. #21
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Missing parts from inventory and correct shocks came FedEx today. I coated chassis aluminum with Lizard Skin and mounted a few pieces. I finished up front suspension plus mounted battery. Taking weekend off.

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    Last edited by wallace18; 07-11-2017 at 04:58 PM.

  22. #22
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today was brake day. I mounted front brakes, all hard brake lines, flex lines, master cylinders reservoir and hoses. I was able to gravity bleed all calipers. I will have my expert brake bleeder, Marsha help me bleed the rest tomorrow. Also installed E-brake cables.

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  23. #23
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Very busy day today. After taking off the 4th. I decided to ramp things up today some. First I mounted all the Vintage Air Front Runner System. Really nice stuff for sure. I did have to relocate the Evap Solenoid due to A/C compressor too close. Then I mounted the engine mounts. Next I installed the flywheel, clutch and transmission. Finally reinstalled the rear chassis aluminum and fuel tank. I am waiting on the Electric P/S from For. Once that is in I can install the power train.

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  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    I get 180 days in my contract to get car ready for paint. Usually takes less time, unless there is a parts hold up.

    Not sure why the hood was ordered. I was not involved in the kit order a year ago.
    Amazing progress. I don't think you'll be needing the 180 days
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  25. #25
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Spent most of today mounting A/C evaporator and plumbed to firewall fittings. I like to mount electric heater valve inside. Now I can try to find locations for EFI fuse panel and GM ECU.

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    Last edited by wallace18; 07-11-2017 at 04:59 PM.

  26. #26
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Did a couple different things today. First I had to separate the engine and trans. It seems the fitting from GM for the throw-out bearing is not supported by the aftermarket. Instead you have to drive out the pin and replace the GM fitting with the Russell unit and a 3-AN hose. It took only 15 minutes to do, LOL. I then mounted the condenser,radiator, shroud and grill together. I would like to pass on some helpful hints on this assembly. Install 1/4-20 rivets in the grill. Also install extra clamps in the shroud to hold the A/C lines firmly. I my opinion the Replicaparts 33 radiator shroud is a must to have on this kit. People always ask me, Tom does it get hot in Florida? The answer is yes, it is 100 F in my shop almost everyday. Lucky for me my fans keep me comfortable.

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    http://replicaparts.com

  27. #27
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Only had a few hours this morning to work on the 33. I have to drive Church bus today. I did install the sound proof kit from FFR on the firewall today. Very nice stuff, IMO. Also installed Ron Francis fuse panel and LS3 ECU. Still have to figure out the rest of the spaghetti, LOL.

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  28. #28
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I plumbed up 98% of the fuel system. I also mounted the TBW gas pedal. I had to modify the pedal box and bracket that came with the connect and cruise. I installed the rear interior aluminum and coated the underside of the trans tunnel with Lizard skin. Also installed engine harness and sending units for temp and O/P. Hope to have Electric P/S tomorrow morning.

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    Last edited by wallace18; 07-11-2017 at 04:52 PM.

  29. #29
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today was a really good day. I mounted the electric kill switch, Richey brought over the electric P/S kit and I was able to install the sliders on his seat and get an idea on where it needs to be mounted. I will have to raise it 2" when the time comes. I installed the electric P/S, but did not clock it till the engine was installed. Marsha helped me install the engine. The HF engine installer was worth its weight in gold for this job, IMO, LOL. Everything fell right in place. I did raise the trans mount .33" for good clearance. I will have to have the drive shaft shortened 3.5" due to the T-56 6 speed. The tunnel fits great after a little cut around the shifter. I was able to clock the P/S motor and still have 2 holes to drill. It does stick slightly below the oil pan but only about 3/8". Worth it IMO.

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  30. #30
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Today I finished up the other 2 mounting hole for the P/S, mounted the P/S ECU and wires. I also mounted the Engine EFI fuse panel, started mounting the starter, the water temp sender & oil pressure sender wires. Hooked up the final fuel hose to the engine fuel rail. Mounted the rear drive shaft cover as well.

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  31. #31
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Started with installing a fitting for the steam line in the water pump. Then moved on to wiring up the alternator, oil pressure sensor, EFI fuse panel and starter. Also wired up the fuel sender, fuel pump and installed rear wiring harness. . Installed the trunk fill in parts.

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  32. #32
    Hooker makes a nice heat shield for the starter and wires... little expensive but if you are using the recommended exhaust manifolds you don't have mush room.
    Hooker Starter Heat Shields 71223007HKR

  33. #33
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bakerboerne View Post
    Hooker makes a nice heat shield for the starter and wires... little expensive but if you are using the recommended exhaust manifolds you don't have mush room.
    Hooker Starter Heat Shields 71223007HKR
    Thanks I will look into it.

  34. #34
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Had a good productive day today. I installed the radiator/grill assembly, all coolant hoses, A/C hoses and dryer. Now I can fill up the coolant and start evacuating the A/C unit. I like to use countersink bolts to mount the grill. Waiting on electrical connectors from Summit for the T56. Not sure why the Connect & Cruise gives all the engine wiring but none of the transmission. Go figure? Still waiting on the manifolds and drive shaft as well. I will try to mock up the air intake for the engine this week as well.

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  35. #35
    If you are using the Auto Meter gauges Auto Meter sales a "LS Install Kit" #5284 That has the M12 and M16 adaptor tech pullup resistor and the short temp sensor.

  36. #36
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bakerboerne View Post
    If you are using the Auto Meter gauges Auto Meter sales a "LS Install Kit" #5284 That has the M12 and M16 adaptor tech pullup resistor and the short temp sensor.
    Thanks, Already have all that good stuff.

  37. #37
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Another good day. I finished up all coolant lines and reservoir bottle then filled up with coolant. I mounted front harness, wired up fan, horns and A/C compressor to trinary switch. I installed trans tunnel, installed A/C drain hose, installed A/C vent hoses to Evap., hooked up clutch line and bled system. Also wired up speed sensor and B/U switch.

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  38. #38
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Finished up the trans tunnel and installed e-brake handle. Ran all wiring into cockpit and sealed up. Ran front wiring harness and finished it all up. Wired up B/U switch. Richey brought by manifolds and shorten drive shaft. I now have everything to make it run. Hopefully sometime next week.

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  39. #39
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Geez, your traveling at the speed of Wayne.

  40. #40
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    What started out as a good day turned to be a little more difficult. First I installed the shortened drive shaft. That went well. Next I installed the drivers side exhaust manifold, that went Ok. Unfortunately the passenger side manifold was too close to my starter wires and low side A/C hose. I was able to relocate the wires and make a starter heat shield. I did have to change the A/C fitting to the firewall. It took me 6 parts stores and drove 45 miles till I found the straight #10 fitting I needed. Once I got all that sorted I was able to finish up the drivers side exhaust. I will finish up the passenger side tomorrow and start on the intake plumbing.

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    Last edited by wallace18; 07-20-2017 at 03:45 PM.

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