Had a really nice fellow Richey call me a few weeks ago. Seems he bought a 33 kit back in 4/27/16. He has had it in his very large carport since delivery. He met a guy at a car show who gave him my business card. We talked on the phone and he came by to see my MK4, GTM build and shop. He decided to have me build his 33 for him. I had him order all the parts that do not come with the kit, while I get my GTM running in go-cart stage. He now has everything but wheels and tires. He promises to have them shortly. I most likely will go get everything in the next few days, start inventory and the build. Here is what he ordered. Should be a really cool car when done.
From FFR-
33 complete kit
powder coat frame
Hard top with P/W
LS install kit
leather seats
3-link
extra clearance hood
sound insulation kit
chrome tilt column
hot rod A/C kit
Power windows and door handles
front and rear Wilwood brakes
electric P/S
LS manifolds
From other vendors
Connect and cruise LS3 E-rod 495 HP with 6 spd manual
Boyd fuel tank
Vintage air front runner system
Replicaparts fan shroud
XS power battery
Went up to Richey's with my friends Art and Jerry. We loaded everything up in about an hour and I have it back to my shop now. Engine went in pick-up bed all the rest in the trailer. Most likely take a few days to inventory everything. Should be a fun build. Stay tuned! LOL.
This afternoon I did get the chassis on the lift. Unfortunately a year exposed to the elements did not fair well with some parts. Lots of rust also some powder coat came off of the frame. I will touch it all up with rust encapsulator and paint. Other parts will get powder coated black . I did wired brush the Moser rear and paint the rusty stuff, looks better , IMO. Uncrated the LS3 E-Rod. Very cool!
Friday afternoon My buddy Jerry helped me with inventory. We got about 80% done. Some stuff missing, but most is there. Today I unloaded the body and chassis. Also unloaded the LS3. Spent most of the day pressure washing a years worth of residue off the parts that were exposed to the weather. Also did some more inventory work. Here is some photos.
Spent almost all morning gathering misc. stuff for the build. I did have time this afternoon to get the rust off of 3 control arms, painted them with rust encapsulator and then VHT gloss epoxy black suspension paint. I also got about 85% of the chassis aluminum drilled and clikoed in place. Also mocked up Boyd fuel tank mounting.
Speedway sells a nice LS Fuel Filter/Fuel Regulator Kit # 91012800 It uses the AN fitting adaptors with screw on nuts (wanted to keep the 58 psi gas in the hose). I mounted it under the tank to keep the return line short. Then bought a 3/8 inch steel fuel line to go up to fuel rail on the drivers side. Also you will have to replace the lower rad. hose bib ... I got one that rotates to any position. Can't tell from your pict what oil pan you got. Some configurations have the oil filter/sump up front some have them in the back. If up front it comes real close to the round cross member... you should take the filter off when putting the engine in.
Is there any reason not to bring the boyd tank closer to the front? You have to nip off part of the back ears the way you have it. I don't have my stage 2 yet so not sure how far forward the tank can go without hitting the waterfall.
Today I finished up refinishing the upper control arms, rear trunk aluminum, installed rivnuts for fuel tank and finished up the rear end and 3-link install. I like the modifications FFR made to this part since my 33 build 4 years ago. 3- link bars are way better IMO.
Today I finished up refinishing the upper control arms, rear trunk aluminum, installed rivnuts for fuel tank and finished up the rear end and 3-link install. I like the modifications FFR made to this part since my 33 build 4 years ago. 3- link bars are way better IMO.
I'm curious about this. My trunk aluminum looks like yours - not surprising I guess, mine is a 2017 kit - but different from many other pics I see, that have an aluminum banana bracket cover sticking into trunk. So, did the 3-link design change that much, prompting new flat aluminum?
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Today I installed the firewall and engine turned it. I also made up the front hubs and installed the front upper control arms. I used 10-32 button head screws for the firewall. Take your time making sure all lines up correct. It is normal to trim all pieces some to make it right. I also installed the Wilwood pedal box. I have to order the clutch master cylinder.
Today I installed the firewall and engine turned it. I also made up the front hubs and installed the front upper control arms. I used 10-32 button head screws for the firewall. Take your time making sure all lines up correct. It is normal to trim all pieces some to make it right. I also installed the Wilwood pedal box. I have to order the clutch master cylinder.
Today I mounted the steering rack, steering column and rear Wilwood brakes. Also mocked up E-brake handle and what I could on lower control arms. Still waiting on FFR parts to come. Should be here tomorrow. I noticed my Wilwood caliper mounted different than most 8.8's. Maybe because it is a Moser?
Missing parts from inventory and correct shocks came FedEx today. I coated chassis aluminum with Lizard Skin and mounted a few pieces. I finished up front suspension plus mounted battery. Taking weekend off.
Today was brake day. I mounted front brakes, all hard brake lines, flex lines, master cylinders reservoir and hoses. I was able to gravity bleed all calipers. I will have my expert brake bleeder, Marsha help me bleed the rest tomorrow. Also installed E-brake cables.
How did you get your firewall to look like it does? Tool used? Thanks
I used a scuff pad on my drill press. Spray WD40 on the aluminum then just press down for a second or 2. You can buy the pads and arbor at any auto parts store.
Tom great job again. This is the second time I have followed your work and look forward to reading your next one. I hope it will be on your 35 as well. You do good work and just do it right all the time except for the hole in the dash I had to get you on that one. Just human and we all make mistakes I hope you stay safe don't work to hard and take care of yourself. Looking for the next one.
Very busy day today. After taking off the 4th. I decided to ramp things up today some. First I mounted all the Vintage Air Front Runner System. Really nice stuff for sure. I did have to relocate the Evap Solenoid due to A/C compressor too close. Then I mounted the engine mounts. Next I installed the flywheel, clutch and transmission. Finally reinstalled the rear chassis aluminum and fuel tank. I am waiting on the Electric P/S from FFR. Once that is in I can install the power train.
I like the vintage air front runner system because it has A/C compressor and alternator, but are the balancer and water pump necessary for the whole system to work? I thought the LS3 connect and cruise system had balancer and water pump already installed.
I like the vintage air front runner system because it has A/C compressor and alternator, but are the balancer and water pump necessary for the whole system to work? I thought the LS3 connect and cruise system had balancer and water pump already installed.
Yes they come with the kit. The system uses LS1 pump so the LS3 pump and pulley will not work .
Spent most of today mounting A/C evaporator and plumbed to firewall fittings. I like to mount electric heater valve inside. Now I can try to find locations for EFI fuse panel and GM ECU.
Did a couple different things today. First I had to separate the engine and trans. It seems the fitting from GM for the throw-out bearing is not supported by the aftermarket. Instead you have to drive out the pin and replace the GM fitting with the Russell unit and a 3-AN hose. It took only 15 minutes to do, LOL. I then mounted the condenser,radiator, shroud and grill together. I would like to pass on some helpful hints on this assembly. Install 1/4-20 rivnuts in the grill. Also install extra clamps in the shroud to hold the A/C lines firmly. I my opinion the Replicaparts 33 radiator shroud is a must to have on this kit. People always ask me, Tom does it get hot in Florida? The answer is yes, it is 100 F in my shop almost everyday. Lucky for me my fans keep me comfortable.
Only had a few hours this morning to work on the 33. I have to drive Church bus today. I did install the sound proof kit from FFR on the firewall today. Very nice stuff, IMO. Also installed Ron Francis fuse panel and LS3 ECU. Still have to figure out the rest of the spaghetti, LOL.
Today I plumbed up 98% of the fuel system. I also mounted the TBW gas pedal. I had to modify the pedal box and bracket that came with the connect and cruise. I installed the rear interior aluminum and coated the underside of the trans tunnel with Lizard skin. Also installed engine harness and sending units for temp and O/P. Hope to have Electric P/S tomorrow morning.
Today was a really good day. I mounted the electric kill switch, Richey brought over the electric P/S kit and I was able to install the sliders on his seat and get an idea on where it needs to be mounted. I will have to raise it 2" when the time comes. I installed the electric P/S, but did not clock it till the engine was installed. Marsha helped me install the engine. The HF engine installer was worth its weight in gold for this job, IMO, LOL. Everything fell right in place. I did raise the trans mount .33" for good clearance. I will have to have the drive shaft shortened 3.5" due to the T-56 6 speed. The tunnel fits great after a little cut around the shifter. I was able to clock the P/S motor and still have 2 holes to drill. It does stick slightly below the oil pan but only about 3/8". Worth it IMO.
Today was a really good day. I mounted the electric kill switch, Richey brought over the electric P/S kit and I was able to install the sliders on his seat and get an idea on where it needs to be mounted. I will have to raise it 2" when the time comes. I installed the electric P/S, but did not clock it till the engine was installed. Marsha helped me install the engine. The HF engine installer was worth its weight in gold for this job, IMO, LOL. Everything fell right in place. I did raise the trans mount .33" for good clearance. I will have to have the drive shaft shortened 3.5" due to the T-56 6 speed. The tunnel fits great after a little cut around the shifter. I was able to clock the P/S motor and still have 2 holes to drill. It does stick slightly below the oil pan but only about 3/8". Worth it IMO.
Today I finished up the other 2 mounting hole for the P/S, mounted the P/S ECU and wires. I also mounted the Engine EFI fuse panel, started mounting the starter, the water temp sender & oil pressure sender wires. Hooked up the final fuel hose to the engine fuel rail. Mounted the rear drive shaft cover as well.
Started with installing a fitting for the steam line in the water pump. Then moved on to wiring up the alternator, oil pressure sensor, EFI fuse panel and starter. Also wired up the fuel sender, fuel pump and installed rear wiring harness. . Installed the trunk fill in parts.