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Thread: Additional Rivets - Length/Source?

  1. #1
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Additional Rivets - Length/Source?

    As I understand it, the kit will be coming with enough rivets to roughly accommodate building the kit with 3" rivet spacing. I'd like to go ahead and order additional rivets to both ensure an adequate number (including spares for reworks, if required), and to do tighter spacing.

    Looking on Amazon, I see some from Bryke Fasteners. Alternately, there are those sold by McMaster-Carr, of course.

    Does anyone have a favorite, go to, source for good quality rivets? Or bad experiences with a given source/type? Or maybe, rivets are just rivets.

    Also, if anyone could share what lengths are required (or supplied with the kit), it would be helpful. I'm looking at getting extra 1/8" and maybe some of the 3/16" as well.

    Thank you,
    --Curt
    --Going Stir Crazy Waiting on Delivery and Spending Way Too Much Time Sweating Details That Will Probably Seem Ridiculous A Few Months From Now
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  2. #2
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Just wait until you get the kit, see what is supplied and get xtras at Home Depot, Ace, True Value, etc. If you do not have a pneumatic rivet gun, I'd advise you get one.

    Also, get Clecos and pliers for fitting the aluminum panels; invaluable; there are some for sale by one who has finished his kit here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/19-part...os-pliers.html

    Cheers, and good luck with the build; you will love it and get lots of help here.
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  3. #3
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Dale is correct. I have used an air rivet gun from Harbor Freight for 2 builds, and Clecos are good also. To proportionally space rivets, there are $50 hinged gadgets but I recommend the free one: Cut the inch-wide elastic from a pair of jockey shorts, mark it every 2 inches, then clamp an end where you want to start the first rivet, stretch it to the last rivet location and mark the aluminum at each elastic mark. This "tool" also takes less space!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  4. #4

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I've been buying from these folks for years.

    www.rivetsonline.com

    They have everything you need, plus a bunch more!

  5. #5
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Posted by me a while back.....

    On the advice of a friend who restores and maintains vintage race cars and another who works on aircraft, I put the FFR-supplied rivets in a drawer and ordered Avex rivets from Crawford Products in Ohio. These pull in a very nice uniform fashion, break clean down inside the rivet, and have a very nice appearance on the top.

    http://www.crawfordproducts.com/avex.htm
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  6. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I personally don't see any reason to be closer than 2 inches. As I recall, the manual recommends 2 inch spacing for panel to panel, and 3 inch spacing when into frame members, tubes, etc. Many go ahead and use 2 inch for everything. But any more than that really isn't necessary and IMO would look excessive. Keep in mind, it's a two component bonding system. Rivets + adhesive. Silicone is recommended, and works fine IMO. But some choose other materials and that's OK too. But bottom line, once riveted and glued, nearly impossible to remove without inflicting serious damage. Ask me how I know... I wouldn't get too excited about buying more rivets now. Look at what comes in the kit and then decide. Similar rivets are available in retail at multiple locations. Mail order in a day or two.

    Having said that, I really like ultimate rivets from Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ltimate-rivets. Come in boxes of 250 for a good price. Wide grip range, nice wide head, and come in several colors. Only downside is they leave a pretty big crush component on the underside. No problem with frame tubes or where you don't care about the other side. But pay attention to both sides when necessary.

    McMaster has an excellent selection as well. They have several varieties of a 3/16-inch high strength rivet that I used sometimes. Also have flush rivets that come in handy.

    x3 on a pneumatic puller. I have an older version of this one. https://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Haus...+gun+pneumatic. Works great. Saves hundreds of squeezes and sets them nice and neat. Plus the high strength 3/16 version I mentioned I can't pull by hand. My Charles Atlas grip just isn't enough.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-22-2017 at 05:37 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  7. #7
    Member Arvin's Avatar
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    I put rivets on 2" centers on everything and only had to buy about 50 extra.
    FFR Complete MKIV Kit (#8271)
    Ordered: Jan 21, 14, Registered: Aug 19, 15
    408 Keith Craft Engine (512 hp, 534 ftlb), Tremec TKO600, Fast EFI, 8.8 Solid 3.55:1 Rear End, FFR Replica Halibrands (9 & 10-1/2"),
    Dual Chrome Roll Bars/Bumpers/Polished Exhaust, Guardsman Blue with Wimbledon White Stripes

  8. #8
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. Yes, I have 50 1/8" clecos, 25 3/16" clecos, and a set of cleco pliers. For pulling rivets, I got what I hope is a good hand rivet gun with a swivel head, as well as a pneumatic gun (I went with a POP PRG510A). I did get one of those hinged metal fan spacer tools.

    My plan is to use using 2" spacing everywhere, just because I like consistency. Good to know, Arvin, that you only required about 50 extra.

    I'm either buying colored rivets, or painting plain ones, and going for a contrasting color vs. the panels, where the rivets are visible. It a subjective thing, but I like the look.

    I'll check out rivetsonline, Avex, and the Summit Ultimate Rivets.

    Thanks again.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  9. #9
    Member BDHoneyman's Avatar
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    Hi, Curt,

    I'm probably going to use Cherry Q rivets from Aircraft Spruce:

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...errynrivet.php

    I used them on my first build (2008).

    Whatever rivets you use, make sure that they are 'structural' rivets and that in your specific application the mandrel goes through the shear plane of both materials. I did a comparison of the mandrel penetration of Cherry Q rivets and Factory Five supplied rivets in 2008. The link is to a photo for the clamping of two aluminum sheets:

    http://www.sunshinegaragemkiv.com/ph...ivets-for.html

    The cherry Q rivets penetrated farther than the F5. I've just started my new build and haven't gotten to the riveting steps yet but I plan to check the F5 rivets against others to see if I get the same results.

    A great source for information on fastening is Carrol Smith's 'Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing'. He discusses rivet spacing and all sorts of things (and in an entertaining way). By the way, he was Shelby's engineer during the 1965 / 1966 race seasons.

    -Bruce
    Last edited by BDHoneyman; 06-21-2017 at 06:15 PM.
    ______________
    FFR Roadster #9047 was delivered March 27th, 2017
    Buildsite: www.sunshinegaragemkiv.com

  10. #10
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    Wait till you run out then you can buy then at any home improvement store. One other thing, for what it's worth, 50 clecos sounds like a lot but I used 100 and was always running low. So many panels and so many holes. Looks like you're just up the road from me. I'm in Toledo. I'll have a body buck available shortly if you haven't built yours yet.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  11. #11
    Senior Member MisterAdam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Dale is correct. I have used an air rivet gun from Harbor Freight for 2 builds, and Clecos are good also. To proportionally space rivets, there are $50 hinged gadgets but I recommend the free one: Cut the inch-wide elastic from a pair of jockey shorts, mark it every 2 inches, then clamp an end where you want to start the first rivet, stretch it to the last rivet location and mark the aluminum at each elastic mark. This "tool" also takes less space!
    I used a fixed 2" center but this is a brilliant idea. thanks. and clecos, you dont need one in ever hole (i have seen it) one in each corner and maybe one additional per side.

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