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Thread: Fidget Build - Tim - Frisco Texas

  1. #1

    Fidget Build - Tim - Frisco Texas

    So I have been working on the car just a bit but figured I would post some of the build here as well. I have been keeping my build site up to date at http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog but I will post here at times too.

    That way if I get stuck or when y'all see where I am heading next you can point me in the right direction. Here are my current plans.

    • 350 Small Block Chevy (From donor 89 Corvette)
    • 700R4 Transmission (From donor 89 Corvette)
    • QA1 Shocks
    • Adjustable Rear Control Arms
    • 4 Link 8.8″ Ford Rear end 3.73 Gears



    I was going to start building everything up and then remove it and then go for powder coating or paint on the frame. Noticed though that I was getting surface rust. So I hit the rust with a wire wheel and painted the frame and the front end parts with some primer and paint.








    Last night I started working on the front suspension. Basically that includes the upper and lower control arms mounted to the frame. Nothing is torqued though, once I know everything is correct I will pull out the torque wrench and do the final work. I got three out of four done when the wife called me in for dinner. Once I hit the AC in the house and had a full stomach that was it for the day.



    See the roll around stool on the right side of the photo above? That was a fathers day present from my wife. That really helped my back yesterday.


    However, I will say that this (below) is the tool of the day! There is a weld on the inside of the rear mounting tabs for the upper control arm. I had to grind the weld back or it would hit the poly bushing and not let the control arm get into position. At least FFR was consistent because it was exactly the same on both sides.




    After the front suspension I am doing the hubs and front brakes. Then petals, master cylinders, front brake lines, firewall, then steering to include the electric steering setup. I figure this list will keep me busy for at least a couple weeks. If I don't have the shocks and rear end by the time I am done with this list I will finish pulling the motor and trans from the Vette. I have some work I am thinking about doing on the motor (like a new cam) so I am putting it off until I decide what I want to do.

    I am working on selling an 1976 Vette. Once that happens I will be ordering the QA1 shocks for front and back, the rear control arms, and the rear end with breaks. I am doing it that way to keep SWMBO happy and not draining the car fund too fast. So if you know someone who would like a great deal on a 1976 Stingray please send them my way.

    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  2. #2
    Nice color, I like it! Looking forward to following along
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    So I have been working on the car just a bit but figured I would post some of the build here as well.
    That way if I get stuck or when y'all see where I am heading next you can point me in the right direction.

    Nothing is torqued though, once I know everything is correct I will pull out the torque wrench and do the final work.



    However, I will say that this (below) is the tool of the day! There is a weld on the inside of the rear mounting tabs for the upper control arm. I had to grind the weld back or it would hit the poly bushing and not let the control arm get into position. At least FFR was consistent because it was exactly the same on both sides.


    Tim
    Tim
    Before you torque the front bolt on the upper a arm don't forget to put the grille support brackets on. Tip them inboard about 5 degrees and they will be close to right for the rad assembly spacing needed. I trimmed off part of the barrel flange on the Urethane to clear those tab welds, I wasn't
    comfortable grinding off that much of the weld on mine. Nice color on the chassis.
    Dale
    7L Hemi33
    Last edited by myjones; 06-27-2017 at 11:55 AM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    Tim
    Before you torque the front bolt on the upper a arm don't forget to put the grille support brackets on. Tip them inboard about 5 degrees and they will be close to right for the rad assembly spacing needed. I trimmed off part of the barrel flange on the Urethane to clear those tab welds, I wasn't
    comfortable grinding off that much of the weld on mine. Nice color on the chassis.
    Dale
    7L Hemi33
    Dale,

    Sorry, can't do that... It's not in the manual that way. You got me worried though... I had to go back to the manual (I have the PDF manual on a drive here at work) to see if I missed something. And I had... One line of text to put the bolt through the grill mount and then through the upper control arm. No photo, nothing on putting it on the front or back... I'll have to go check out some photos to see how it should go.

    Thanks for pointing it out for me.

    The welds on the tabs were BIG and I did not think it was going to hurt to grind them off a bit. Worst part now is having to go back and hit it with paint now to cover up the grind. I have plenty of the paint though. After running out of primer while spraying the frame and then having to go to three stores to get enough to do the job I picked up more of the blue as well. After painting the frame and front end parts I still have something like nine cans of it. I am going for the rattle can rod look. :-) At least for now. I may have it all sand blasted off and have everything powder coated someday.


    Tim

    Edit; Thanks to HVACMan for posting his build thread photos I see how it has to be mounted.
    Last edited by TDSapp; 06-27-2017 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Update
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  5. #5
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    I will be following youe build very closely.
    You are making me think about a possible future project.

    https://youtu.be/svZX2BMSDEs
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 06-27-2017 at 01:02 PM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    I will be following youe build very closely.
    You are making me think about a possible future project.

    https://youtu.be/svZX2BMSDEs

    GoDadGo your Vette is SO MUCH nicer than mine. Mine probably has less miles than yours but I have not drove it in a while. I was just going to sell it and use the money but the fuel pump went out. I did not want to put more money into it and in it's condition I would probably get less than $5,000 for it. With the cost of a new motor and transmission I figured I might as well strip the motor and trans for the Hot Rod and sell the other parts. I should come out ahead in the long run.


    It has an L98 motor in it with the TPI injection the limits the motor to around 4,500 to 5,000 RMP. I had it put on the dyno one time and it only had 240HP at the rear wheels but did hit 309 fp of torque with a 3.07 rear end. Once I move it over I am going with a nice intake and a 650 CFM carb and considering a new cam. Comp Cams suggested an Extreme Energy XR276HP and said that with the heads and block I have that it would give it a great idle ( Not a smooth idle... ) I figure I could get the motor over 300 HP and then with the trans geared the way it is for low end and something that winds a little tighter than a 3.07 that I'll end up with a great ride.


    It was going to be either that or drop in the 454 I currently have sitting on the motor stand.

    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  7. #7
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    GoDadGo your Vette is SO MUCH nicer than mine. Mine probably has less miles than yours but I have not drove it in a while. I was just going to sell it and use the money but the fuel pump went out. I did not want to put more money into it and in it's condition I would probably get less than $5,000 for it. With the cost of a new motor and transmission I figured I might as well strip the motor and trans for the Hot Rod and sell the other parts. I should come out ahead in the long run.


    It has an L98 motor in it with the TPI injection the limits the motor to around 4,500 to 5,000 RMP. I had it put on the dyno one time and it only had 240HP at the rear wheels but did hit 309 fp of torque with a 3.07 rear end. Once I move it over I am going with a nice intake and a 650 CFM carb and considering a new cam. Comp Cams suggested an Extreme Energy XR276HP and said that with the heads and block I have that it would give it a great idle ( Not a smooth idle... ) I figure I could get the motor over 300 HP and then with the trans geared the way it is for low end and something that winds a little tighter than a 3.07 that I'll end up with a great ride.


    It was going to be either that or drop in the 454 I currently have sitting on the motor stand.

    Tim
    You can make 325-350 HP all day long with the L-98 mill.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    Tim
    Before you torque the front bolt on the upper a arm don't forget to put the grille support brackets on. Tip them inboard about 5 degrees and they will be close to right for the rad assembly spacing needed. I trimmed off part of the barrel flange on the Urethane to clear those tab welds, I wasn't
    comfortable grinding off that much of the weld on mine. Nice color on the chassis.
    Dale
    7L Hemi33
    I don't mean to hijack the thread but I noticed that with the grill support brackets installed and torqued, the control arm bolt just barely clears the nut. Is this ok?

  9. #9
    Would love to get together with you. You can look mine over and I can show you some of the problems I have encountered

  10. #10
    WRP,

    Sounds like a great idea. I would love to check out your Hot Rod. I am free tonight, tomorrow night and Friday night. After that it would have to be next week after the 4th.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    WRP,

    Sounds like a great idea. I would love to check out your Hot Rod. I am free tonight, tomorrow night and Friday night. After that it would have to be next week after the 4th.


    Tim
    Give me a call 214-793-7598

  12. #12
    Looks like from the pics that the lower control arm rear bushing tabs are facing the wrong direction. The back bushing tabs go toward the back and the front ones go toward the front...

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by bakerboerne View Post
    Looks like from the pics that the lower control arm rear bushing tabs are facing the wrong direction. The back bushing tabs go toward the back and the front ones go toward the front...
    Bakerboerne,

    Is this the part you are talking about? (EDIT) Actually look at the photo in the next post as I think I have it on correctly. I have to pull it apart anyway as I just noticed that I am missing a locking nut on that control arm.




    If so I will correct that tonight when I get home. Thank you!


    Tim
    Last edited by TDSapp; 06-28-2017 at 11:07 AM.
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  14. #14
    I did get to work on the car more last night. I have been having a ton of fun working on this car. I can't wait until I get to drive it too.

    I got the control arms finished, with the exception of the lower control arm mounting tabs being the wrong direction on at least one side of the car. I also got the spindles and the hubs on as well.




    Man that center hub is a beast. I have never had a bolt that my torque wrench could not handle (it goes up to 190 ft lbs.) and only once have I needed a bigger socket for a wheel hub. (The 89 Corvette uses a 36mm socket for the rear hubs.) So tonight I have to go buy a 1 3/8 socket and then over to Auto Zone to borrow a torque wrench that gets up to the 235 ft lbs required.





    Once I got to this point I went ahead and painted my brake calipers and brackets to get ready to install them tonight.


    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  15. #15
    You got it right - I did not look at your pics close enough - sorry .

    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Bakerboerne,

    Is this the part you are talking about? (EDIT) Actually look at the photo in the next post as I think I have it on correctly. I have to pull it apart anyway as I just noticed that I am missing a locking nut on that control arm.




    If so I will correct that tonight when I get home. Thank you!


    Tim

  16. #16
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I also got the spindles and the hubs on as well.
    Man that center hub is a beast. I have never had a bolt that my torque wrench could not handle (it goes up to 190 ft lbs.) and only once have I needed a bigger socket for a wheel hub. (The 89 Corvette uses a 36mm socket for the rear hubs.) So tonight I have to go buy a 1 3/8 socket and then over to Auto Zone to borrow a torque wrench that gets up to the 235 ft lbs required.
    Be prepared for the back of the car to raise up off of the jackstands when you try to torque the pass side spindle nut. You might need a couple of stout friends to sit on the back of the chassis when you crank that side down. There have been a few posts about that dilemma in the past. At a
    minimum remove both orange jackstands and put them clear up at the front of the chassis first.
    HTH
    Dale Berry
    7liter Hemi 33
    Last edited by myjones; 06-28-2017 at 02:31 PM.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    Be prepared for the back of the car to raise up off of the jackstands when you try to torque the pass side spindle nut. You might need a couple of stout friends to sit on the back of the chassis when you crank that side down.

    Dale,

    Thanks for the input. I have already found a couple places that the frame start to move around while trying to tighten a bolt or two.



    I did not get to work on the car yesterday but I did go and buy the 1 3/8" socket for the hub nut to get home and find out that it did not fit on the nut. So I will head back to Sears to see if I can get one that fits. This time I'll take the nut with me.

    I also had the chance to go and meet WRP and his car Ethel. It was great to be able to see a Hot Rod all together and running. Very encouraging to say the least. Then to top it off I was able to sit in it to see how I would fit and he hands me the keys and says "Lets go for a ride!" Sweet! We took it for a trip around one of the toll ways via the service roads and it was great to drive and sounds just as awesome. His videos do not do justice to the actual sound of the car.

    We chatted a while after we got back and started talking exhaust. He jacked up the side of his car so I could take a look under it. I have an idea of what I want to do for the exhaust and was not sure if I was going to have room. I think now that I have seen how his looks I will be able to do it. Just a couple more questions before I pull the trigger on that.


    So for all you builders that have ran the exhaust out the side of the car, where on the frame does the exhaust have to pass through? I don't have the body yet so I can't set it on there to see where I would run it.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I did go and buy the 1 3/8" socket for the hub nut to get home and find out that it did not fit on the nut.
    Wow, I'm sorry about that.. I can't explain it because that's what I bought and used.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Wow, I'm sorry about that.. I can't explain it because that's what I bought and used.
    Yes I blame you for it all.

    I went back and checked again yesterday to make sure that I was just not asleep when it did not work. But it still did not fit on either side. I think I am going to have to have a 1.5" socket to get it to fit.


    Not a problem anyway. The only socket they had that was 1 3/8" was on a 3/4" drive. I hate having to buy something I will only use once and also have to buy a wrench to fit it. I started looking at Amazon this morning for a 1/2" drive socket that they will deliver.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  20. #20
    Yeah, I had to buy 1 or even 2 adapters for this damn thing!
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  21. #21
    Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive 3/4" drive set with sockets from 7/8" to 2". Plus ratchet, extensions, and breaker bar. That's a 1/2" drive ratchet in the right side for size comparison. I don't use the big set for too much, obviously, but the big sockets are great for driving seals.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  22. #22
    Have you tried to0 rent one from Autozone or Orielly's?
    a

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I went back and checked again yesterday to make sure that I was just not asleep when it did not work. But it still did not fit on either side. I think I am going to have to have a 1.5" socket to get it to fit.
    I'm still kinda fascinated by this Tim. Such similar build numbers so we should be the same. I checked my socket and it sure is 1 3/8". I had to buy a 1/2 - 3/4 adapter too. I wonder what parts you got that were different from mine?

    hub.jpeg
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  24. #24
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    I'm still kinda fascinated by this Tim. Such similar build numbers so we should be the same. I checked my socket and it sure is 1 3/8". I had to buy a 1/2 - 3/4 adapter too. I wonder what parts you got that were different from mine?

    hub.jpeg
    I am a little perplexed myself by FFR's choice of hardware mix (metric & SAE). I am sure it has to do with 3rd party suppliers, but it makes for many trips back and forth to the tool box!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  25. #25
    I'm interested also in the size also. My 1/2" metric set goes up to 36mm. My 33 should be delivered next week and thought I had all the tools needed. Hate to be in the middle of a task and have to stop to go purchase a tool.

  26. #26
    So I had a message typed up and once I hit post it all went away and never showed up.

    So I bought the 1 3/8 and it did not fit at all. I figured it must be a 1 1/2 because you don't see many 1 7/16th so over this weekend I got on Amazon and ordered a 38 mm socket as that is used for many hub bolts. It comes to 1.49 so it is just under 1.5". However it is fitting lose. So today when I get home I am going to try and find my 36 mm socket.

    So I will give everyone an update once I get home.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  27. #27
    New Update and question

    So went to Mom and Dad’s over the 4th of July weekend and got to snooping through the shop. I know that both dad and I have some motors and parts in the shop. I found a Holley Double Pumper and a Weiand intake. I asked dad about them and he said the came off the 383. Dad had already offered me the 383 motor for the hot rod but I don’t want to drop anything in it that I can’t track until I get it registered. I asked him how much he wanted for the intake and carb and he told me to take it.



    So now I know what is going to be put on top of the long block that I am pulling from the Vette. The intake is a Weiand 7546 which is part of their X-CELerator line. I am not sure what model of Holley carburetor it is but I hope some of you guys here on the forum will be able to give me that level of detail.


    So I have been trying to ID the carb... I did notice that it appears to only have one metering block between the float bowls, just on the primary side. This might be a 3310-1 750 CFM carb.


    Tim
    Last edited by TDSapp; 07-05-2017 at 11:42 AM.
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  28. #28
    I have a ton of tuning parts for them

  29. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    So I bought the 1 3/8 and it did not fit at all. I will give everyone an update once I get home.

    Tim
    1 3/8 is ~34.925mm so perhaps 35 or 36 is the correct size, as you said. All the mustang forums are full of FUD; some say 35, others 36, others use 1 3/8. I'm putting my money on it actually being 35mm.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350-383 SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders, hood, no sides, 3 link, 18x10 (275) 19x13 (345)

  30. #30
    so going from 34.925 go 35mm is less than a 10th of a mm. I think that the socket I bought would need to be bigger than a 10th of a mm so I am going with 36mm. I could not find my 36mm yesterday but the 38mm held enough to get the nut torqued to 235. I just about had to jump up and down on the torque wrench to get it to go. While I know it was good to lose the 75 pounds I used to have, I bet it would have been easier when I was 250 pounds. lol.

    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  31. #31
    So yesterday I did not sleep well so I got up and went to work early… Real early, which means I was able to leave work early and work on the Hot Rod when I got home. I was able to get the front brakes mounted and the steering rack and tie rod ends all mounted. Things are looking good.

    First I laid out the parts for the brakes and then put them together off the car. This is so much easier than working with dirty parts directly off a car.



    This is after a few hours of work on the car late in the day. Some day I will be able to work on it for an entire weekend day and watch out! Things will happen fast.







    So next on my list was to install the petal box and the steering but to really do the steering I need to get the engine in. So I think tonight it is back to pulling the motor from the Vette. This will allow me to mount the electric steering and to get it clocked correctly.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  32. #32
    Looking good.

  33. #33
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Things are looking good. This is after a few hours of work on the car late in the day.

    So next on my list was to install the petal box and the steering but to really do the steering I need to get the engine in.

    Tim
    Tim
    Don't forget to install the grille support brackets on the A-arm bolts before you torque them down. IIRC they tip in about 5* to the middle to
    have the right spacing for the radiator shell. Looking good
    Dale
    7liter Hemi 33

  34. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    Tim
    Don't forget to install the grille support brackets on the A-arm bolts before you torque them down. IIRC they tip in about 5* to the middle to
    have the right spacing for the radiator shell. Looking good
    Dale
    7liter Hemi 33
    Thanks Dale, I have had that though about every hour of working on the car.



    Ok, to answer the question on everyone's mind



    The 36mm is a perfect fit for the center hub bolts on my car.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  35. #35
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    There are a few different types of spindle nuts that fit our 33. All the same inside but just a bit different on the outside from
    what I found with mine. This could be why they take a different socket at times based on which style you have, the washer
    designs varied a bit as well as the hex shapes.

    When I assembled my front suspension a few years ago the nuts that came with the kit were wiping off the threads once they
    were fully engaged and way before they seated to the bearing. I thought maybe they were crimped a bit too much because
    even though they started with my fingers and weren't cross-threaded they took off some of the threads while turning easy but
    would un-screw just fine once I saw the carnage. They were a Dorman fastener IIRC so I went to the parts store and bought a
    new pair that looked the same and sadly acted the same. I pitched all 4 and went to a different store and bought a different
    brand with a slightly different style, still same result. I then went to Ford and bought their spindle nut which had a different
    type of captured washer and it went on just fine with no drama. The damaged threads are fully outside the nuts so there is
    full engagement and no overall concerns about the final product. I was starting to wonder if the spindles weren't properly
    hardened but since the final set of nuts tightened properly I don't think that is anything to worry about.
    YRMV

    Dale
    Last edited by myjones; 07-07-2017 at 05:41 AM.

  36. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    There are a few different types of spindle nuts that fit our 33. All the same inside but just a bit different on the outside from
    what I found with mine. This could be why they take a different socket at times based on which style you have, the washer
    designs varied a bit as well as the hex shapes.
    Dale
    I understand why they would do it depending on the supplied parts at the time. But you would think that it would change over time and not so soon. Some of the guys that are using the 1 3/8" socket got their car just a week or so before mine.


    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    When I assembled my front suspension a few years ago the nuts that came with the kit were wiping off the threads once they
    were fully engaged and way before they seated to the bearing. I thought maybe they were crimped a bit too much because
    even though they started with my fingers and weren't cross-threaded they took off some of the threads while turning easy but
    would un-screw just fine once I saw the carnage. They were a Dorman fastener IIRC so I went to the parts store and bought a
    new pair that looked the same and sadly acted the same. I pitched all 4 and went to a different store and bought a different
    brand with a slightly different style, still same result. I then went to Ford and bought their spindle nut which had a different
    type of captured washer and it went on just fine with no drama. The damaged threads are fully outside the nuts so there is
    full engagement and no overall concerns about the final product. I was starting to wonder if the spindles weren't properly
    hardened but since the final set of nuts tightened properly I don't think that is anything to worry about.
    YRMV

    Dale

    That still happens to this day. When I got the center hub nuts on I saw that it had ate the threads off the spindle. Since I had the nut torqued I did not remove it to see what it looked like.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  37. #37
    So today I had the day off with my son and we both got to work on getting the motor out of the Vette. I got out there this morning and started working before it got to hot. We worked until it got to hot to work out there. Somewhere around 97 degrees was the limit today.



    I pulled the valve covers today to allow me to pull the runners off the fuel injection manifold. I was immediately disappointed to find standard rockers. I was under the impression the 89 Vette motors had 1.5 ratio roller rockers. Looks like I may be paying for some upgrades that I was not planning on. At least it is a clean motor.





    Tim Sapp
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  38. #38
    OK, I know that others have said it before but here in Texas... IT IS HOT! When I have a free weekend I find that I can only work out in the garage for a few hours and then have to retreat to the Air Conditioning. There is just something about not wanting to work when the heat index is sitting at 106 and you are just covered in sweat. But this weekend was different. Thanks to some rain and clouds it has been much cooler. If you want to say that a high of 93 is cooler. On both Saturday and Sunday I got to spend a few hours working out in the garage.

    I was able to finish pulling the donor motor and transmission from the Vette.




    Once I got it out it was about 3:30p.m. and had hit 93 so I went ahead and called it a day. Today after work I will split the engine and trans and at least get the motor on the stand.
    Tim Sapp


    Build Thread: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    "If Krass and Bernie can do it why can't I?"

  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    OK, I know that others have said it before but here in Texas... IT IS HOT! When I have a free weekend I find that I can only work out in the garage for a few hours and then have to retreat to the Air Conditioning. There is just something about not wanting to work when the heat index is sitting at 106 and you are just covered in sweat. But this weekend was different. Thanks to some rain and clouds it has been much cooler. If you want to say that a high of 93 is cooler. On both Saturday and Sunday I got to spend a few hours working out in the garage.

    I was able to finish pulling the donor motor and transmission from the Vette.




    Once I got it out it was about 3:30p.m. and had hit 93 so I went ahead and called it a day. Today after work I will split the engine and trans and at least get the motor on the stand.
    I hear ya. Here in East Texas the heat index was 106 both Saturday and Sunday. I stayed out of the shop and in the pool. lol

  40. #40
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    My LT-1 has stamped rockers too so don't fret, it's an easy upgrade.
    The first SBC to get factory roller rockers was the LT-4 that came in the 1996 C-4.
    Just make sure that you get the "Self Aligning / Thin Style Rocker" that are designed to fit the center bolt valve covers.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...et?prefilter=1

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