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Thread: Fidget Build - Tim - Frisco Texas

  1. #81
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    HVACMAN,

    Yes there is... I ordered this along with a new wire harness, and adjustable control arms from a non-supporting vendor who has recently been suspended from this site. I respect his opinion, as do many people on this site, and this is what he sells. He said that it fits better and will also be colder.
    Turns out to not be too bad of a deal either. Classic Auto Air is in Coppell TX which is only about a 20 to 30 minute drive from where I live. I just happened to be about 3 minutes from their office this morning so I dropped in to check them out. I bought a bulkhead from them. Even though a bulkhead adds an extra failure point on the system I like the looks much better.

    They also told me that when I am ready that they will crimp all my hose connections for free as part of the service of having their system.
    Thanks Tim. I agree D.R. Is extremely knowledgeable. I have purchased his adjustable 4 link and QA1 shock and spring set. All are excellent. I am at the point of ordering the a/c system and you have helped me decide which way to go. Thanks again.

  2. #82
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    Thanks Tim. I agree D.R. Is extremely knowledgeable. I have purchased his adjustable 4 link and QA1 shock and spring set. All are excellent. I am at the point of ordering the a/c system and you have helped me decide which way to go. Thanks again.
    Yes he is very knowledgeable and I think it hurts the site more by not having him on here than the money they would get but forcing him to be a sponsored vendor. But that is their decision and not mine.

    I can't tell you much more about the AC unit because all I have done is mount the evaporator and nothing else.



    Tim
    Tim Sapp
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    33 Hot Rod
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  3. #83
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    This weekend I was able to work on my motor. I pulled the crank and after looking it over I decided that it would just be easier to buy a new crank than to pay to have this one reworked. OReilly Auto has the referb cranks for $179.00 and it also includes the crankshaft main bearings and the rod bearings that match the journals.






    The hardest part of getting out the crank shaft was this stripped bolt on the flywheel.




    Once that was taken care of I pulled out the borrowed hone and ran it across all the cylinders.



    Once I finished that I put the block on a dolly and out into the drive way. I cleaned it up with some degreaser and water then dried it with air from the compressor. Really after that I had to use a wire brush and my drill to really get it cleaned up. Once that was done I shot some paint onto the block.











    I may have gotten in trouble over this paint though... I have always known that Chevy motors should be painted Chevy Orange. However, once SWMBO saw it she was not thrilled. She thinks that the motor should be painted to match the car, either the frame or the body. So depending on how it looks I may have to paint it again.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  4. #84
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    BTW, I updated my budget. I am currently at $17,161.42 and that is before getting stage 2 ordered.


    That is also before the $453.00 that I am spending on parts I am ordering today.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
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  5. #85
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    If the BOSS is not happy nobody is. And this kind of project it is good to have the BOSS happy!

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    If the BOSS is not happy nobody is. And this kind of project it is good to have the BOSS happy!
    Translated means, spend time getting the passenger seat just right!!

  7. #87
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    I started building the engine for the Hot Rod last night. Makes me ask a question today... Does anyone want to see things like the engine build photos in the build thread on here, or just the items of the hot rod build that is common? When I say common I mean like everyone drops in a motor and a transmission, but not everyone builds their own motor.

    I am still going to post them to my build web site (in signature) but if no one wants to see them here I will just post them there and not here. I don't want to waste anyone's time by posting things that no one wants to see.


    I also updated my online budget.
    Last edited by TDSapp; 11-01-2017 at 11:12 AM.
    Tim Sapp
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    33 Hot Rod
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  8. #88
    Ol Skool
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    I love engines that are Built ... Not Bought!! Its part of your project, post it like crazy.

  9. #89
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    I love engines that are Built ... Not Bought!! Its part of your project, post it like crazy.
    OK, sounds like I would not be wasting my time then...
    Tim Sapp
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    33 Hot Rod
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  10. #90
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    I started rebuilding the engine yesterday. Got the main bearing and camshaft bearing saddles all cleaned up and then gave the main caps a good cleaning as well. Put in the bearings with a good coating of assembly lube and torqued the first four main caps to 70 ft/lbs. Torqued the last cap to about 15 ft/lbs and then whacked it front and back with a hammer to set it into the thrust bearing and then did the final torque on the cap and redid the others as well.





    After that I grabbed the Cam bearing tool and knocked in the new cam bearings. I then put the cam shaft “freeze plug” and then put the new cam in.





    I think I am going to have to flip that cam retainer over though. The other side is the shiny side that the timing gear rides on.

    Once I was done with this I started cleaning the pistons getting them ready for rings. I think that tonight I may be dropping the pistons in.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
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  11. #91
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    All pics, always like inside of motors!

  12. #92

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    Yes post it all! Built my own 383 for last car and wished I’d taken pics.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  13. #93
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    OK, I will keep posting the photos.

    I don't have any new for today as yesterday all I did was set on a stool and clean pistons. Uggg what a task. I stopped at the Chinese Slave Labor Tool Company (aka Harbor Freight) and picked up a wire wheel for my bench grinder on the way home. I put it on the grinder and spent the next two hours sitting at the wire wheel cleaning piston after piston. Then spent another half hour or so with a broken ring going over all the piston rings to get them clean. Only one piston left and then I can put the new rings on and drop the pistons into the block.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
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  14. #94

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    Good honest grunt work though The hidden part of car building.. cleaning crap off stuff. My now-beautiful inlet manifold was caked.. everyone will probably just assume it came brand new out of a box, but I'll know

    P.S. not many speak of budgets, so thanks. Mine is currently at $15,291 with goodwrench engine nearly ready to run, and donor rear w/3 link. Nothing between motor and rear though..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  15. #95
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    Ha HA in the end you my need that part!

  16. #96
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Good honest grunt work though The hidden part of car building.. cleaning crap off stuff. My now-beautiful inlet manifold was caked.. everyone will probably just assume it came brand new out of a box, but I'll know
    After I get the long block done my next real cleaning chore will be my intake manifold. It has been sitting on a shelf for a few years and looks like it. I will probably end up taking it to a car wash to start on it and then still spend a couple hours with a wire brush or steel wool on it.


    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    P.S. not many speak of budgets, so thanks. Mine is currently at $15,291 with goodwrench engine nearly ready to run, and donor rear w/3 link. Nothing between motor and rear though..
    Well by budget is currently sitting at $17,614.38 but that is low because I only picked up Stage 1 first and already had a motor and transmission from the Vette as a donor. If I had to buy a motor and transmission I would probably be at $24K +\- a few hundred. That also does not include new tools that I have bought that I know will be used on other projects and things. Things like the extra pair of jack stands I have now (three sets now), and the sand blasting cabinet. I did add the cam shaft bearing tool to the budget because I don't think I am going to have to reuse that tool for a long time.


    Future budget is what is going to get me.

    With the things that I KNOW I still have to buy, like the water pump, new alternator, timing set, timing chain cover, more seals and gaskets I still have a few hundred to spend before I get to the body. I'll make it easy and lets say ~ $1,400.00 which puts me at $19,000.00. Stage 2 will be $10,539.00, plus the $1,500 transport fee, and the rag top which adds another $3,549.00 and sets the budget at $34,588.00. Adding another $1,500 for sand paper, filler, epoxy, fiberglass, and other things I will be setting at ~ $36,088.00 before any paint goes on the car.

    Looks like I am going to break the planned budget of $35K and I am doing quite a bit of the work myself. If I was having to buy a new motor and transmission I would be at around $43K before paint (assuming $7K for simple motor and transmission). I may end up getting things together and getting it tagged and licensed and then shoot on some primer and paint myself and drive it for a while shaking out any bugs and issues and then getting it into a body shop for a real paint job. Not only will that space the cost out more I will be able to enjoy the car sooner.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
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  17. #97
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Mine is currently at $15,291 with goodwrench engine nearly ready to run, and donor rear w/3 link. Nothing between motor and rear though..
    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    Ha HA in the end you my need that part!
    Well if you are willing to go with an automatic that will take a beating I have a Turbo 400 sitting in my garage that I will trade for.

    It is sitting right next to a Chevy big block 454 but I am not trading that away for anything. I think that will be going into my next project which is a 1923 Model T that my dad has given me.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
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  18. #98

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    Thanks, but i'm still planning on one of these slightly upgraded TKO's http://libertysgears.com/our-products/tremec/

    I still think I was lucky with motor ($1450 plus $300 in parts) and rear ($450) but until we're moving under our own steam I'm still just praying stage 2 + hard top of course still to come, and I'm not counting tools that I can use again, but still hoping for ~$32-33k
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  19. #99
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    It's killing me... sigh... Yesterday I finished cleaning the pistons and went to put on the rings and put them into the block. Not one of them could I get in. I put them into the ring compressor and when I went to put them in they always stopped at the oil scraper. They all appear to be the same size as the original rings and I can get them into the piston by themselves and they fit with a little bit of gap.


    Then to top it off I was pulling one of the rings off the piston and I broke it so now I have to go buy another one.
    Tim Sapp
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    33 Hot Rod
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  20. #100
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    Yes the small things can be very aggravating, walk away, then come back to find the problem and move forward.

  21. #101
    Ol Skool
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    I think you may be fighting with the ring compressor. Assuming ring gaps in the bore are good and clearance in the groove is good I always blame the ring compressor. Many different styles of compressor so it can make a difference in technique and bore chamfer. Use lots of oil on it and get it square on the block. I use a pusher and give it a quick firm shove. Don't tap, hammer or coerce it. Cheap compressors don't keep the high tension oil rings tight as they enter the bore sometimes. This shows up more on larger chamfers. Sometimes you need the really thin style compressor that sits into the chamfer.

  22. #102
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    Sometimes the scraper is directional, with a shoulder on top or bottom to make it behave differently on the down stroke.

  23. #103
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    OK, so maybe I called it the wrong thing... I am not talking about either of the two compression rings. I am talking about the lowest set of rings that has the spring like spacer between the two rings.

    I talked to my dad last night and his suggestion was to make sure that the ring gap is cleaned very well and to try again. So I went and bought some small wire brushes and also a small wire wheel that will fit on my drill. I will try them again tonight when I get home from work.

    I am thinking that Erljhemi is correct though and I am fighting the ring compressor.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
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  24. #104
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    After you check that the oil ring still has a gap in the bore (with it off the piston) and you spiral it back on the spacer make sure the ends of the spacer are butted together and not overlapped. Some have a color code to make that check easy. If the ends overlap you get a "lump" and it wont go in the bore. Also try flipping the compressor over if it is a universal type. If the "squeezer" part is closer to the block it mayl put more tension on the ring.

  25. #105
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Well after buying a second type of ring compressor and trying it multiple times,



    I have decided that the cylinder is just too far out of round to trust. I talked to a machine shop today to arrange to drop off the block tomorrow were they are going to bore and hone the motor. For $185.00 they are going to do what they call a performance prep which also includes the freeze plugs and new cam bearings. I am also going to buy new pistons and rings from them which they are them going to machine the block for the specs of the pistons.

    Once I got the block ready last night I went ahead and started working on other things.


    Got the floor pans drilled and ready to have the lizard skin shot onto it.






    I also sand blasted some parts and painted a few of them.



    (And yes, that is the old seal in the timing chain cover. I did not want the seat for the seal painted so I left the old one in.)
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  26. #106
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Here is the bock being dropped off at the machine shop on Saturday.




    they said it would probably be today or tomorrow before they started on it. It should take four days or less so I will probably have it back this weekend.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
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  27. #107

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    Exciting stuff!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  28. #108
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    It's like Christmas around here, so get ready for a little bit of engine porn as most of the pictures here have a nude motor in it.


    So yesterday I got the call that my engine was finished at the machine shop and could pick it up at any time. So on the way home from work I stopped by and picked it up. I paid and they loaded it up into the trunk of my car. It was all wrapped in plastic and card board like a special Christmas present. I used my cherry picker to get it out of the car and over to my engine stand.



    I unwrapped it and low and behold all of my orange paint was gone and replaced with black... Ugg All that work I did... Plus I have all the other parts painted orange as well.



    So I had dropped off the engine to be bored and honed, have the freeze plugs replaced and the cam bearings replaced. It's called a Performance Prep at City Motor Supply here in Dallas. Turns out they do a lot more than just that. So when dropping off the block on Saturday I found out that they also mill the head surface and when they hone the cylinders they also do the lifter holes as well. Extra cool... Only concern was the VIN number stamp on the front edge of the head surface at the front of the motor. I have to be able to show the DMV where I got the motor from and they use that stamp. But we had them put the serial number\VIN on the order form, and on the invoice. That and several pictures of it should have me covered.



    When I went to pick it up I found that they do even more than what I was told on Saturday. They start off by pulling all the extra parts off the block, like the oil filter insert, the fuel pump block off plate, the freeze plugs, and the oil channel plugs. They then put it in the soaker all night. We used to call that dropping it into a heated vat. In the morning they wash it off then sand blast the block with a peening media. They magna-flux the block to make sure there are no cracks and then paint the block, and insert the freeze plugs and oil plugs. Next in line was to bore the cylinders then they mill the head surface. After all that they finally get to honing the cylinders and the lifter holes. I figured after that they would just knock in the cam bearings and be done with it but it looks like they honed the bearing seats for the cam and the crank shaft. Then they knocked in the cam bearings and covered them with a good helping of assembly lube.




    As I said, all of this was part of the Performance Prep and City Motor Supply only charges $185.00 for it. If you are in the DFW area, or the San Antonio area I would highly suggest you get your work there.

    Now for the disappointing part... when I got the block unwrapped I noticed a couple issues. First the oil filter insert was no where to be found.



    Same goes for the Fuel Pump block off plate .



    If you look at the second picture you will also see that all of the main caps are in with standard bolts. Which means that three of the bolts were replaced and I no longer had the long bolts that hold the main caps and the windage tray. There was also one bolt that was missing from the area that the main seal has.

    I can happily report that this morning I stopped by City Motor supply and not only did they replace everything that was missing they even opened a half hour early for me. So I am still 100% happy with everything they did. (Except the black paint... but that is nothing major... Black and brass is not to bad of a look for a block.)
    Last edited by TDSapp; 11-16-2017 at 10:06 AM.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  29. #109
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    So to continue with Christmas from yesterday (and the fact that I hit submit post way too early) I have more. (But wait... There's more!)


    Since I had them bore the motor .030 over I knew I was going to have to buy new pistons and rings. I asked them about it and they sell them as well. So I picked up a set of 30 over Federal pistons and a set of Hastings rings. What is nice at CMS is when the bore the motor and they know what pistons and rings are being used they do the work according to the specs of the parts. So I have the parts that exactly match the bore and they only cost me $90.00 for the pistons and $30.00 for the rings.

    The unwrapping continues...



    I wanted to get the compression ratio a bit closer to 10.0:1 so I went with a set of flat top pistons that have the standard four valve reliefs.



    These pistons are so much cleaner than the stock pistons.



    The stock ones were dished and had a rough surface in the valve reliefs. The smoother surface should also help with preventing detonation from hot spots. Plus being flat topped and the head surface being milled it should help with the compression ratio.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  30. #110
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    So since I had everything I started work on putting the motor back together. I had the crank and cam standing in the garage and I have been worried about them falling over and getting dinged. So I went ahead and put them in the block. I did not torque the main caps as I want the three bolts that hold the windage tray to be torqued at the same time. Now that I have the replacement bolts I will torque the main caps down tonight when I get home.


    I also knocked the timing gear onto the crank and put on the cam shaft timing gear and chain.



    As you can see this is a double roller timing chain and because of this I had to "slightly modify" the bolts that hold the cam retention plate. I had to grind down the heads of the bolts on the retention plate so the timing gear set would clear. This was noted in the timing set paper work so I knew I would have to do it.


    After picking up the block and pistons I stopped at the Chinese Slave Labor Tool company (Harbor Freight) and picked up a press. After the work above I put the press together and pressed out the wrist pins from the connecting rods. Once I got it together and started working on getting to the rods I for some reason did not take any photos. I did get the pistons off all eight rods and they are sitting on the bench waiting for the new pistons.

    I did learn two things while doing this. One, a Craftsman 6" extension from a 1/2" drive is the perfect ram for the wrist pin. Second. the 12,000 pound press from the Chinese Slave Labor Tool company is crap. I know they don't have a great reputation for tools but normally you can use them for their intended purposes for a while before they break. Not with this press. I did get the 8 pins out but not with out some real work. Once I started putting any pressure on the ram the entire body of the press would start to shift and bind. Once I figured out how to resolve it I was able to press out the last six pins but not without a special dance. I would have to stand up and place a foot on the right hand side of the base of the stand, then a hand on the top right hand side of the frame. As I would pump the jack to put pressure on the ram I would have to push the top of the frame over to the left. Once some pressure was applied I would then have to life the arbor surface on the right hand side to keep the part level.

    Trust me when I say that I had all the bolts on the frame right and level. I even used a 4' bubble level to make sure the uprights were level. I am going to be returning this press as I don't think there is anything that I would be able to use it with.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  31. #111
    Ol Skool
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    Looks like you can say your engine is built, not bought!! I picked up the Harbor Fake 20 ton press on sale with a coupon so I might be able to do 10 ton jobs with it. So far so good. I used to have one of those drill presses that worked like a radial arm saw. Too many angles and dangles. It lasted quite awhile doing wood work and light metal work until I tried playing with a cylinder head one day and the bed broke off and I had 75lbs of cylinder head on my foot. You can shoot some VHT primer and chevy orange over that black and make it look pretty.

    Enjoy

  32. #112
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Looks like you can say your engine is built, not bought!!

    You are correct... My entire car including the motor will be built not bought. :-)


    And if it's not one thing its another... Was sitting down to work on building a jig to press in the wrist pins into the pistons and connecting rods and noticed that it appears that I have a couple bent rods. I guess it happened while I was using the good ole HF press before I figured out how to hold my mouth while removing them. So I called City Motor Supply and they have Rods for $19.00 each and will even press on the pistons for $10 a rod. So I went ahead and dropped them off this morning to get done. They said they would be ready by noon today. I'll probably get a chance to pick them up tomorrow morning on my way into the office so I hope I can get them in tomorrow night.

    In the mean time I went ahead and re-painted the block orange since I also had other parts that were orange already. I taped up the top of the motor and then put the timing chain cover and oil pan on. I also coated the freeze plugs with some Vaseline and shot the paint. The Vaseline allowed me to paint the block and then just wipe off the freeze plugs with a paper towel.

    I also wire brushed the out sides of the heads to clean them up.




    I also took my dirty old intake and threw it into the sand blaster.



    I would say that it cleaned up rather nice.




    Had some family coming over so I put the carb and scoop on the intake to complete the look for them.






    If that was not enough I cleaned up the corner of the garage where my lathe resides and I turned a new pen for my wife.



    I am just learning how to turn pens so i still have more to go but it was a nice break from everything else going on.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  33. #113

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    Dang, I never knew that vaseline trick! Clever and so much nicer than trying to tape.. learned something today!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  34. #114
    Ol Skool
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    Orange Engines with shiny stuff on top run better!!

  35. #115
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    So I have more engine porn for y'all. Yesterday on the way to work I stopped at City Motor Supply and picked up the connecting rods and pistons. Just made sure there were 8 of them and that the pistons moved on a couple and put them into the car.

    Was surprised when I got home with them to find out that they were referb rods. Looks like the bearing surfaces have been honed and new bolts were pressed in. I guess that is what you get for $19.00 each.




    I pulled the end caps off with the help of my wife. They had the caps torqued on so tight I had to have my wife hold the pistons and rods with a 12" crescent wrench and I broke the nuts lose using a 18" break over bar. I am not sure what they used to put them on but they were WAY to tight.

    I then put all the rings on the pistons, put the rod bearings in place and greased them up with assembly lube. I then grabbed the ring compressor and put all the pistons in place. I flipped the motor over and torqued them all to 45 ft pounds. I was able to get all but three of the bolts torqued and then had to turn the crank to get to the last three.




    When I tried to turn the crank there was no joy. It would not turn to save my life. So I loosened up all the connecting rod bolts and it would spin again. Checked to make sure I was torquing them to the connect setting and started it again.

    I was trying to turn it again to get to the last few bolts and found once again that I was unable to turn the crank. After a bit more checking I found that if all of them are torqued except piston #5 it will turn. But if I torque #5 I again am unable to turn the crank. pulled the cap and checked the bearings and there are no marks on either of them, and it looks like the crank is clean as well.



    I added more assembly lube and tried again. Still no joy. Tonight I may end up pulling the piston completely to see if I can see anything odd with it.

    It's just odd as because if I break the torque it spins and as soon as I hit 45 on both nuts it is locked tight.

    So after doing some reading I am also going to check the bearing clearance with some plastigauge. Maybe something is weird there.


    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  36. #116
    Ol Skool
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    Tim, Check bearing backs on #5 for dirt etc. Also check they aren't "select fit" .001" undersize. Plastigage all bearings including mains for appropriate clearance. usually around .002", but follow your bearing type spec. I'll bet the rods were slightly "over honed" at the parting line. If that's the case I'm sure the shop will just hone the bore a little more. Also check that you have the chamfer the correct orientation so the bearing isn't against the fillet.

    Good luck

  37. #117
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Tim, Check bearing backs on #5 for dirt etc. Also check they aren't "select fit" .001" undersize. Plastigage all bearings including mains for appropriate clearance. usually around .002", but follow your bearing type spec. I'll bet the rods were slightly "over honed" at the parting line. If that's the case I'm sure the shop will just hone the bore a little more. Also check that you have the chamfer the correct orientation so the bearing isn't against the fillet.

    Good luck

    The rod and main bearings came with the crank as a matched set.

    If they honed it too much would it have not caused a lose fit for the bearing vs being too tight.


    When you say chamfer the correct orientation do you mean the bearing key/keyway? I did check that on the cap and rod and they are in the correct place, and the cap is on in the same direction.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  38. #118
    Ol Skool
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    The first step in the rod work is to take material off the cap at the parting line. This reduces the diameter and then it is honed to make it round again. if you loosen the rod bolt and the crank turns you either have too much crush or possibly the rod is flipped and the chamfer is facing the other rod vice the crank fillet. look at the orientation of the bearing and rod relative to the crank journal fillet. The only other common issue is foreign material between the shell and rod.

  39. #119
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    As mentioned above, the rod must orientated correctly on the journal or interference can occur. Depending on your engine, there should be a relief on one side of the rod to accommodate the fillet on the side of the crank journal.




  40. #120
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input guys, I got the issue resolved last night.

    So most of the time I was doing one piston at a time and one side at a time. But for some reason I thought I would get things faster if I prepped more than one piston\rod at a time. I ended up having the rod caps swapped for cylinders #5 and #7. When Erlihemi reminded me how they referb the caps I started to think back to how I installed them. I went and checked the rod cap and it just did not look right. Took a look at #7 and it did not match right either.



    Swapped the caps, torqued them down and low and behold I was able to turn the motor. So I put the first gasket onto the motor, put sealer on the head bolts and bolted the heads onto the block.






    Now for my next problem....




    See the lip at the top of the head where the valve covers set. I discovered last night that when I set the intake on to cover up all the holes that it was not fitting right. I put the intake gaskets on the heads and set the intake back on. The lips on the heads keep one side of the intake lifted up. It creates over a 1/8" gap where it should be sitting on the block. Tonight I will see if I can slide the intake from the front to the back under the lip. If not I may either try to trim down the edges of the intake or buy a different intake that fits.
    Last edited by TDSapp; 11-30-2017 at 10:52 AM.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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