Door Latches

[RickP]

I remember reading somewhere a post by EdwardB about a "trick" used to attach/install the door latches. Just wondering if there is a more straight forward way of doing other than what the manual says to do. Also wondering what folks are doing to mount them to the doors temporarily if planning to drive their roadsters in gel coat for a bit before paint/final body work. I suspect my doors will not reside in their final place once a body man gets to them.

Rick

[edwardb]

I don't know about a trick. But I can describe how I mount them that seems to work pretty OK. The credit for this approach really has to go to Jeff Kleiner. That's where I saw it first. First make sure the latches are working properly. Make sure the pin from the handle assembly fully seats into the latch. Not unusual to have to open up the hole a bit for the pin. Also if you haven't seen the carriage bolt mod many of us do, suggest you do that as well. http://www.linger.com/cobra/DoorLatchRepair.htm

The doors need to be installed and close to their final position. The height is probably the most important. The post can be adjusted in/out, but not so much up and down. But if you install the doors the proper height compared to the body, pretty unlikely that's very different than where your body man places them.

To mount, first install the post on the chassis tab. Then clip the latch onto the post, and close the door against it. Use this to find the right location for the door latch assembly. You may need to adjust the location of the post a bit, and typically they need some washers or spacers to get the latch assembly properly located. You also may need to bend the tab on the frame a little so that the door latch sits flat against the door. That's very important. Likely you will also need the laser cut steel spacer FF provides for under the door latch assembly. Adjust the post and tab until you're happy with the door latch location. Then mark and drill the holes in the door and attach it. It should open and close and latch correctly at that point. HTH

[Gumball]

Rick,

Here's something I posted here back in 2013 regarding how I modified my latches to improve their durability and reliability. Hope this helps.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...y-and-function

[Jeff Kleiner]

Between edwardb and Chris (as well as the posts they linked) it's all covered and I didn't have to do hardly any typing!!!

Paul/edwardb, since you changed your avatar it's taking me a while to get used to it and realize who I'm talking to

Jeff

[RickP]

I don't know about a trick. But I can describe how I mount them that seems to work pretty OK. The credit for this approach really has to go to Jeff Kleiner. That's where I saw it first. First make sure the latches are working properly. Make sure the pin from the handle assembly fully seats into the latch. Not unusual to have to open up the hole a bit for the pin. Also if you haven't seen the carriage bolt mod many of us do, suggest you do that as well. http://www.linger.com/cobra/DoorLatchRepair.htm

The doors need to be installed and close to their final position. The height is probably the most important. The post can be adjusted in/out, but not so much up and down. But if you install the doors the proper height compared to the body, pretty unlikely that's very different than where you body man places them.

To mount, first install the post on the chassis tab. Then clip the latch onto the post, and close the door against it. Use this to find the right location for the door latch assembly. You may need to adjust the location of the post a bit, and typically they need some washers or spacers to get the latch assembly properly located. You also may need to bend the tab on the frame a little so that the door latch sits flat against the door. That's very important. Likely you will also need the laser cut steel spacer FF provides for under the door latch assembly. Adjust the post and tab until your happy with the door latch location. Then mark and drill the holes in the door and attach it. It should open and close and latch correctly at that point. HTH

Thank you Paul, exactly the reference I was looking for. I didn't know if the method came from you or Jeff, I just remember reading it at one point.

[RickP]

Rick,

Here's something I posted here back in 2013 regarding how I modified my latches to improve their durability and reliability. Hope this helps.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...y-and-function

Thank you Chris. Came across your thread a few weeks ago and applied the method you so graciously provided.

[RickP]

Between edwardb and Chris (as well as the posts they linked) it's all covered and I didn't have to do hardly any typing!!!

Paul/edwardb, since you changed your avatar it's taking me a while to get used to it and realize who I'm talking to

Jeff

I noticed Paul changed his avatar and it's throwing me for a loop as well.

[RickP]

Between edwardb and Chris (as well as the posts they linked) it's all covered and I didn't have to do hardly any typing!!!

Paul/edwardb, since you changed your avatar it's taking me a while to get used to it and realize who I'm talking to

Jeff

Jeff/Paul,

should I mount the latch to the door with pan screws or rivets or.....

[RickP]

Jeff/Paul,

should I mount the latch to the door with pan screws or rivets or.....

disregard. The package of bolts, washers etc. pretty much tells me the method of attachment.

[JRL16]

I used nutzerts on mine although the bottom screws were very close to the edge of the metal box FFR puts in the doors. I think Paul had another way to attach the bottom screws.

[edwardb]

I use nutserts as well. 10-32. My go-to size. I just prefer machine screws over sheet metal screws. Agreed they might get close to the edge of the underlying metal though. Wasn't a problem on the first two builds. But for whatever reason the Anniversary build had a couple that were too close and one that missed completely. I used T-nuts in those locations on the underside of the laser cut spacer before bonding it to the door with HSRF. I always bond it anyway before paint. Then it gets painted in and looks more finished IMO.

Sorry about the changed avatar guys. Didn't mean to cause waves. Figured it was time for a change.