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Thread: clutch cable rubbing

  1. #1
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    clutch cable rubbing

    So, I have a 2015 model of the MK4, and the wilwood pedal box clutch cable setup... The installation instructions show a different arrangement for the clutch cable pedal plates then if you had a 2016 or newer MK4 frame. So I followed the instructions for the 2016/older version. After first start and driving the car very little, I noticed that the clutch cable is rubbing when you engage the clutch. It is rubbing enough with very little driving that it already broke the coating around the cable.

    Anyone have any tips tricks or parts that I should look at to help keep the rubbing down? The only thing I came up with was to grind just a little of the outside plate where it is rubbing, to make a slant for the engagement... I also unbolted the pedal box assembly and made sure it was moved to the outside as much as possible. There was not much more that it could move to help alleviate the rubbing...

    Top picture... Kind of hard to see.. But you can see that also the end of the cable where the brass stop is, bottoms out on the pedal box instead of going into the hole like it should.... This also worries me, I dont want a burnt clutch because it is not fully engaging.


    side picture.... You can see the rub mark..

  2. #2
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    I would ease the edges of the quadrant and reverse the bolts to start.
    FFR 5136 Started as a donor...donor guages, engine, trans,etc. Now...TFS street intake,stage 1 cam, GT40p's,24# injectors and 80mm MAF,70mm TB,Z-spec t-5, and PSE Halibrand wrapped with Nitto 555 G2’s. My ever evolving dream car!!

  3. #3
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    Reverse the bolts? What do you mean by that?

  4. #4
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    I had the same issue.
    I took the quadrant apart and put it back together in such a way that the cable lined up properly in the groove and the stopper on the end of the cable goes into the hole.
    Sorry I don't have pics. I do remember it being a little "tedious" to reconfigure the quadrant pieces to work best but in the end I am happy with the results.

  5. #5
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    That hole is so far off at an angle I don't know how you would get it to fall into it... I have taken that thing apart so many times... Did youove the plates around in a different order then what is on the sheet???

  6. #6
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    My MK 3.1 cable doesn't have any coating on it, just raw braided cable where it sits in the quadrant. Being narrower I wonder if this may avoid the rubbing altogether?
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  7. #7
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    It's not the cabling coating... It is way off.... Something is not right and tech support stopped responding to emails... I guess I am going to call them tomorrow.

  8. #8

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    awd-turbo, i have a 33 but the parts look identical. I believe you've assembled the small pieces on the wrong side. Compare with mine..

    clutchquad2.jpegclutchquad1.jpeg

    here's the instructions i have:

    quadmanual.jpg
    Last edited by RoadRacer; 06-29-2017 at 10:34 PM.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  9. #9
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    Road racer- you are kind of right. For the mk4 if you have a kit that is older then 6/2016 the install for those pieces is how I have it setup. For kits 6/16 and newer then you follow your type of setup. However in good faith before I emailed them I tried both ways, still didn't work, it made it worse. Then I tried arranging them in all types of orders ha, still nothing.

  10. #10
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    PS my kit is from 2015

  11. #11

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    As I see it, the only way for you to fix it is to move the location of the fire wall adjuster. Then open up the hole in the pedal box to accept the end of the cable.
    Mike

  12. #12
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    Thats how I see it also mike! I was hoping they know something I dont know. I do have a strange kit, it is an MK4 but it also doesnt take the 2" roll bar. I also do not have a fire wall adjuster.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by awd-turbo View Post
    Road racer- you are kind of right. For the mk4 if you have a kit that is older then 6/2016 the install for those pieces is how I have it setup. For kits 6/16 and newer then you follow your type of setup. However in good faith before I emailed them I tried both ways, still didn't work, it made it worse. Then I tried arranging them in all types of orders ha, still nothing.
    Ah, sorry, it looked so obvious when I typed it I didn't get an adjuster either (it seems to vary over time whether it's included as the designs change) so I ordered one of these, should be here tomorrow: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    FWIW, I measured with the template and drilled a pilot hole, but when I look down the quadrant slot it's not exactly lined up. I'm going to drill it in the exact right location so there's no slight offset.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  14. #14
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    Got off the phone with Dan. He told me to stack the plates in a such a way it lines up. I have tried all combinations of stacking the plates. It wont allow me to move over to the outer pedal box in order to get the cable right. Even if i can figure that out, that puts me farther away from the hole on the pedal box, so the end of the clutch cable bottoms out on the black top of the pedal box. Which could burn my clutch, if it is not fully engaging or disengaging.

    My Next option is to drill a hole in the front aluminum and steel plate to get it all to line up. So I guess we will go that route.

  15. #15

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    I think whats happening is they shifted the pedal box to the right to help with the clutch pedal hitting the 3/4 tube. But your frame did not get the updated front plate which moves the firewall hole the same amount. Just slot or move the hole and move on.
    Mike

  16. #16
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    awd-turbo thanks for elevating this issue. I looked at my chassis #8861 from March/April 2016 and found the clutch cable end interference. I changed to the post-6/16 plate stack and it works fine now. You've obviously got something else going on, but you definitely helped me!

  17. #17
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    glad I could help someone.... This is what I came up with... I tried to arrange all the plates and could not get the cable to line up right. I used 22g steal, cut the hole for the firewall cable adjuster(which I ordered off amazon just for this idea) and then trimmed everything up for the other plates.. Once I got everything lined up, I traced the plate onto the steal again. I double up the 22g steal plate just so it was more rigid. I didnt know how much pressure was going to be applied to the plate and if it would hold up over time. Better safe then have to redo it again in a year! Anyways it is not painted for completely trimmed out in the pictures below... But you get the idea!





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