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Thread: Finish Around Steering Column

  1. #1

    Finish Around Steering Column

    Good evening everyone. This will be my first post as I acquired a mostly complete MKIV roadster and am working on trying to wrap it up. I am sure I will have more pertinent questions later, but I am going to have the dash off and wanted to finish around the steering column to make it look more polished. I saw a lot of ideas and posts but not a lot of pictures from the side of the column so I can see how it looks. Would appreciate any pictures and comments on how you finished the column and where it enters the dash. Thanks much!

    Mark

  2. #2
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Santa Clarita, CA.
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  3. #3
    Thanks for the quick response on my question. I saw that one and thought it looked pretty good. It is hard to tell by the picture, but with it being oval do you see stuff behind the dash? Or because the column is angled and the trim ring is pretty thick do you just see the aluminum trim piece? And one last question, would you just leave the column the out of the box color or do you finish that somehow?

    Thanks,
    Mark

  4. #4
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Blackberry Township, IL
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    I have the Russ Thompson turn signal set-up, which includes the nice outer sleeve / tubing for the steering shaft. I cut the round hole in my dash panel for it just a little oversized, but cut the leather dash covering a little small - which resulted in a nice tight, finished look to the leather around the column.

    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  5. #5
    Thanks Gumball. I have seen a lot of good things said about the Russ Thompson turn signal setup. I may consider that in the future. We'll see how many times i forget to turn the signal off! Looks nice.

  6. #6
    This is Mike Everson's part. On mine you can't see behind it.

    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  7. #7
    That's perfect Kevin, thanks for posting the picture. That's the best picture yet I have seen and really shows a nice finished look. And the column itself it looks like you did put an aluminum/chrome piece over it to finish it as well? It looks like it just sets between the steering wheel and the hole trim ring or does it attach somehow? Just something you picked up at the local hardware store?

    Appreciate all the responses. I think I am leaning toward the same setup Kevin. Clean, nice look, pretty easy to do.

  8. #8
    No its not an extra piece. Its part of the wheel mounting assembly.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  9. #9
    Ah, here is a picture of mine. I see what you are talking about. May sound like an obvious question but then did you cut the steering shaft shorter? Thanks!IMG_0342.JPG

  10. #10
    No the shaft slides up & down as a safety measure. Just slid it down to meet the dash then locked it in place.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  11. #11
    lol. show's how little i know! Thanks so much i will have to check that out. Having a little extra room will be handy and it looks good too. Thanks again!

  12. #12
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    I recall some builders several years back, using a stainless steel thermos cup, to fill in that space between the dash and the steering wheel boss, by cutting a hole the size of the shaft in the one end. You might be able to picture what i am talking about..They actually looked pretty good.


  13. #13
    Thanks Bill I saw some posts of that as well and with a high enough quality thermos cap I could see that looking good. Your picture helps, as my mind wasn't thinking of a cap that looked that good!

  14. #14
    Member
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    Victoria, BC, Canada
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    Here is what I did... It is a stainless steel base from a marine shop...normal use is a flag pole on a boat...but I really like how it finished it off.
    https://rmcmicki.files.wordpress.com...6/imgp3153.jpg
    Build Site http://rmcmicki.wordpress.com
    FFR8104 -MkIV Complete Kit , Ford V8 302, 360 hp , T5, 3.55 four link
    Delivered - Sept 2013
    First Start and Go Cart - March 2014
    Licensed - Sept 2014
    Paint - June 2015 Driving daily - June 2015

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by rmcmicki View Post
    Here is what I did... It is a stainless steel base from a marine shop...normal use is a flag pole on a boat...but I really like how it finished it off.
    https://rmcmicki.files.wordpress.com...6/imgp3153.jpg
    Thanks for the picture and the additional idea. That does look really nice. Good to see some other options.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    No the shaft slides up & down as a safety measure. Just slid it down to meet the dash then locked it in place.
    Kevin, went out today to try and move my steering shaft down like yours but couldn't get it figured out and I couldn't find anything on the forum or instructions either. Here is a picture of my column shaft. I thought maybe it was held in by a set screw, but as you can see that is missing....which seems like a problem, but then again it isn't moving so maybe that isn't the issue or necessary. Can you give me some guidance? Hopefully these pictures help (pardon the wires, still gotta reroute those).

    Thanks,
    Marksw1.JPGsw2.JPG

  17. #17
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    There should be two set screws. I believe 90 degrees aparts.

    Also, the shaft slides in and out but not easily as it is a friction fit. The surface rust doesn't help either. I would try and remove it first and clean it up. Some anti seize wont hurt either. Be careful not to loose the small bevel washers that help keep the shaft tight.

  18. #18
    Did you loosen the set screws in picture 2?

    If they are out might be frozen in place with surface rust. Try pulling it out carefully first with some WD40 or similar, clean it then a trace of anti seize. Be sure not to loose the spring washers.

    Mine was set up during assembly so it went together pretty easily.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 07-17-2017 at 11:42 AM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  19. #19
    Thank you both for the quick response. I only saw one spot for a set screw, which is not there at all. Tonight I will take a look for the other set screw and loosen it up and also clean off that surface rust and see if all that works better. I have a nickel-based anti-seize I can apply if you think that is ok.

    Thanks,
    Mark

  20. #20
    Senior Member chopthebass's Avatar
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    Oct 2013
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    Calgary, Canada
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    941
    I got Russ Thompson to turn me a solid aluminum piece, as I don't like the slotted piece.
    Finally started my build the beginning July. 2015!

  21. #21
    Sounds like some talented, helpful people out there making some good add ons choptthebass.

    I went out this evening and found the second set screw. It didn't have a screw in it either. So neither of them do. I cleaned up the shaft, sprayed a little WD40 on it and tapped lightly with the rubber mallet and was able to push it in. Now I have to figure out the size on those set screws and put some in there!

    Thanks for all the advice and help everyone. Much appreciated. On to the next issue.......

  22. #22
    A little slow on this but for future people who lose their set screws, they are 6mm Coarse thread, get short ones.

  23. #23
    anyone tried a 3d printed part?

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