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Thread: Tko 600

  1. #1
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    Tko 600

    Quick question on the 5 spd tko 600 transmission. Is the 1st gear a synchromesh.
    Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
    Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThickCobra View Post
    Quick question on the 5 spd tko 600 transmission. Is the 1st gear a synchromesh.
    Yes. The parts manual shows three synchro assembiles: 1-2, 3-4, and 5th. In actual use, there's no issue downshifting into first, which wouldn't be the case if there wasn't a synchro. The only gear w/o is reverse.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    I am still in go kart stage and have made several laps around the neighborhood, while never exceeding 30 mph, nor past 3rd gear. I notice that downshifting to 1st from 2nd is a little difficult, but didn't want to force it before inquiring. I have a short shifter so maybe it's a leverage issue. I will try again today and be a little more committed.

    Thanks.
    Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
    Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
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    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    They are not the easiest and smoothest of shifting. Some say a little "notchy". I just installed my TKO500 (basically the same as TK600) and it takes a little work, but after breaking in over 2700mi. it is much better. I have a mid-shift with a cut down (1 1/4") shift lever I got from **********. I also put an angle of 10deg both forward and to the left on the lever just to make it comfortable for me to shift. Don't make it too short or it will be harder to shift.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Do an internet search and you'll find a common theme with complaints about TKO shifting. So much so that there is a cottage industry built around fixing the problems with these gearboxes. If you're not happy with your TKO-600, contact Liberty Gears as they have several levels of improvements to choose from. They are certainly one of the leaders in modifying the TKO. They have mine right now and will be face plating 2nd, 3rd, and 4th plus some other mods to make it shift faster. You probably don't want to go that extreme for a street car but they can make shifting improvements that are compatible with street use.

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    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    I have no issues with my TKO600, actually find it smooth. Now this all depends what you are used to though. Don't compare it to a Audi R8, Honda S2000, MX-5. I have heard the vette, Cayman and BRZ have some really nice ones too.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I've done the Liberty Gears synchro upgrade on two TKO600's. One that I drove two seasons in #7750, and now the Anniversary build. Both shift great. Smooth and easy. Every bit as nice as the T-5z that was in the my first build. This has been debated quite a bit previously. Many think they shift OK without the mods, others say they just need time to break in (no doubt some truth to that), others say they always shift like a farm truck. Guess it's what you expect and what you are used to. But I'm very pleased with the modified ones I've used.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    All good info...thanks everyone. As this is my first build, I will work with my unmodified tko 600 for now, and hope my experience helps others. But now that I know of remedies, if necessary, I feel better. Knowing is half the battle. Often these things are a combination equipment and operator and knowing they can be "notchy" helps.

    I hope everyone is enjoying the summer drives. As for me, I plan on applying the body under coating today, and then installing the body for the final time and move toward completion and licensing. Maybe not the final time as I hope Mr. Kleiner is up and running and I can work my way into his schedule to paint it this coming winter.

    Jay
    Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
    Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
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    Senior Member smithbks's Avatar
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    I have to admit I am a little bit baffled as to the shift issues. I have the TKO600 and while it was very stiff for the first 100 miles (basically I felt like I slammed it into gear - which I believe is what they kind of recommended), I haven't noticed a single issue since. The only thing I would say is that you need to go straight into the gear. You can't really slide it in sloppy like a standard car. If that is what is being referenced then I get it, but otherwise ??? I love it and wouldn't see any need for mods. But others are some pretty trusted voices, so their opinion is valued.

    But I am also a little old school with the cable clutch, manual brakes and steering, etc. I like the car to feel a little raw. Too many creature comforts and I might get comfortable with it, which would be a bad thing with its power!
    Mk4 #8340, 351w/427, 3-link, Wilwood 4 piston rear brakes, 3.27 gear, TKO600, delivered June 18th, 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by smithbks View Post
    I have to admit I am a little bit baffled as to the shift issues. I have the TKO600 and while it was very stiff for the first 100 miles (basically I felt like I slammed it into gear - which I believe is what they kind of recommended), I haven't noticed a single issue since. The only thing I would say is that you need to go straight into the gear. You can't really slide it in sloppy like a standard car. If that is what is being referenced then I get it, but otherwise ??? I love it and wouldn't see any need for mods. But others are some pretty trusted voices, so their opinion is valued.

    But I am also a little old school with the cable clutch, manual brakes and steering, etc. I like the car to feel a little raw. Too many creature comforts and I might get comfortable with it, which would be a bad thing with its power!
    I like old school. Also, I only have neighborhood laps on the go kart, less than 20 miles. Plenty of time to break it in and i do have Pennzoil synchromesh trans fluid in it.
    Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
    Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
    Road Legal August 31, 2017

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    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithbks View Post
    But I am also a little old school with the cable clutch, manual brakes and steering, etc. I like the car to feel a little raw. Too many creature comforts and I might get comfortable with it, which would be a bad thing with its power!
    Ditto, sans the steering, I have P/S and love it.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithbks View Post
    I have to admit I am a little bit baffled as to the shift issues. I have the TKO600 and while it was very stiff for the first 100 miles (basically I felt like I slammed it into gear - which I believe is what they kind of recommended), I haven't noticed a single issue since. The only thing I would say is that you need to go straight into the gear. You can't really slide it in sloppy like a standard car. If that is what is being referenced then I get it, but otherwise ??? I love it and wouldn't see any need for mods. But others are some pretty trusted voices, so their opinion is valued.
    This is kind of how these discussions typically go. Those that don't have modified TKO's say that after break-in they're OK and no modifications needed. But haven't tried a modified TKO. Others with modified TKO's (like me) say how nice they shift, but haven't used an unmodified version (also like me). It would be nice if someone had actually used both, but still the opinion is likely to be pretty subjective. For me it's a little bit of a no-brainer because Liberty Gears is local, a Tremec Elite distributor, and know exactly what is required for these builds including the tailpiece trimming. Pretty easy to go ahead and have them do the mods before picking it up.
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-12-2017 at 02:56 PM.
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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    ThickCobra, if you want to see the difference between a modified and unmodified TKO there are Youtube videos documenting the difference. The TKO 500 or 600 is like a truck transmission -- can handle a lot of torque for the size but doesn't shift as smoothly (quickly) as most performance transmissions. So your personal point of view on how well it performs will be based on your experience with other transmissions, your expectations, and the application for which you intend to use it. If you want a leisurely cruiser with a quiet gearbox that never gets driven anywhere near the limit you'll probably be very happy with a bone stock TKO. If you've driven a late model Wrangler manual trans and are OK with missing shifts when in a hurry you'll be happy with a TKO. However, if you plan to bang shifts above 6,000 RPM then you're going to be cussing like a sailor at that stock TKO, especially when attempting to shift from 2nd to 3rd (or I should say missing the shift from 2nd to 3rd). If you pride yourself on your skill & expertise at speed shifting a manual trans you may be very unhappy with a stock TKO. Since you already have the trans installed I agree you should use it for awhile and maybe it'll fit your needs. If it just won't do what you want it to after trying it, pull it and have it modified. But to support edwardb, I agree that for those of you planning a TKO for your build -- buying one from Liberty Gears with the modifications you need for your application & expectations is the best value. Check out their web site for more info on how these transmissions are modified. And search Youtube for videos of folks driving modified TKOs before you decide which may work best for you.

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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Never thought anything weird about the TKO-600. Felt just like I remember the Muncie Rock Crusher 4MT in my '67 Stingray.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
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    Had a TKO 600 for probably 5K miles if not more and never "broke in" real bad from 2nd to 3rd. sent it to Liberty had the full monty done WOW !
    now it shifts great !!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    Looking at the Liberty website it doesn't look that much more for the upgrade - $2,450 to $2,754. So, for just $300 extra you get a better shift? I'm as budget conscious as anyone, but that seems a no-brainer.

    Thanks for this thread, I was going to buy stock, but I'll talk to these guys now.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Looking at the Liberty website it doesn't look that much more for the upgrade - $2,450 to $2,754. So, for just $300 extra you get a better shift? I'm as budget conscious as anyone, but that seems a no-brainer.

    Thanks for this thread, I was going to buy stock, but I'll talk to these guys now.
    RoadRacer, your welcome. One of the benefits of taking longer than you initially plan to build a car is one reads a lot of tips for mods. (Not that there is a benefit as I wish I was driving it already!!) My trans is already in so I'll see how I like it unmodified.

    A side comment on your your 33' profile pic., looks awesome. I am already thinking of building one... trying to talk my son into it.
    Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
    Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
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    Its more than 300 extra for the full service ! Call them great people.

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    This is kind of how these discussions typically go. Those that don't have modified TKO's say that after break-in they're OK and no modifications needed. But haven't tried a modified TKO. Others with modified TKO's (like me) say how nice they shift, but haven't used an unmodified version (also like me). It would be nice if someone had actually used both, but still the opinion is likely to be pretty subjective. For me it's a little bit of a no-brainer because Liberty Gears is local, a Tremec Elite distributor, and know exactly what is required for these builds including the tailpiece trimming. Pretty easy to go ahead and have them do the mods before picking it up.
    Just to be clear to those looking at the Liberty mods, I'm only describing the upgraded synchro option here. Face plating is generally not recommended (or necessary) for street driving and likely most other uses of our builds.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    We had the transmission already and had so much trouble shifting we had damaged the shift shaft rods and the shifter(pro 5 0) and the forks.
    We paid Liberty to do the full treatment up to face plating, they replaced the shift forks, shift rails and the syncros . So cost was higher than starting with new parts. There is a REAL BIG difference in the way the trans now shifts. We (the only two drivers) are no kids and know how to shift. I raced 4 spd cars for years on the track and the other driver is a professional driver. Tremec told us that we are the problem not the Trans. Yeah right ! Thats why even onthe Camaro Forums they talk about them. They are strong units but need some help to make them really good. Jst like when you blueprint an engine. Makes it better.
    Kenny

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThickCobra View Post
    I like old school. Also, I only have neighborhood laps on the go kart, less than 20 miles. Plenty of time to break it in and i do have Pennzoil synchromesh trans fluid in it.
    I would rethink that Pennzoil. Tremec specifically recommends GM synchromesh. All the way down to giving you a part number. I read enough threads out there about people having trouble with anything else, including Pennzoil, to convince me.

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    I just recently bought a TKO 600 from Bob Hanlon (Hanlon motorsports), and Pennzoil was his recommendation.

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    The Tremec recommended trans fluid for the TKO is GM 88900333 (the old # was 12345349, but same stuff from what I gather.)
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by Derald Rice View Post
    I just recently bought a TKO 600 from Bob Hanlon (Hanlon motorsports), and Pennzoil was his recommendation.
    Maybe I need to clarify and add a disclaimer to my statement above. In my case, Bob added his improved blocker rings to 1, 2, 3, and 4th gears. Normally only 2, 3, and 4th get the rings. These blockers might be why the Pennzoil recommendation. He was adamant about the fluid, so I will be a good soldier and follow orders.

    In the case of a bone stock TKO, the GM synchro might be a better choice, but the Pennzoil still meets the same standards as the GM stuff, for about 1/3 the cost.

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    Member TMScrogins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    This is kind of how these discussions typically go. Those that don't have modified TKO's say that after break-in they're OK and no modifications needed. But haven't tried a modified TKO. Others with modified TKO's (like me) say how nice they shift, but haven't used an unmodified version (also like me). It would be nice if someone had actually used both, but still the opinion is likely to be pretty subjective. For me it's a little bit of a no-brainer because Liberty Gears is local, a Tremec Elite distributor, and know exactly what is required for these builds including the tailpiece trimming. Pretty easy to go ahead and have them do the mods before picking it up.
    OK. I've had both. Same car, same gearing. I grenaded my first TKO-600 bone stock. Replaced it with a Liberty Gears syncro/shift fork/bearing support upgrade. Not that I had any real issues shifting with the stock trans but figured it was an opportunity to upgrade the 2nd time around thinking it would improve the shifting experience. I had about 1,200 miles on the first transmission and I have about 5,000 miles on the Liberty upgraded trans. Honestly, I can't tell a difference between the two in terms of shifting. It wasn't bad before, it isn't bad now. Not the smoothest transmission by any means. Having had both and if I got a do-over I'd save the $300+ dollars. Just my personal experience. Hope it helps.

    Trevor

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Trevor, great feedback. For the average guy building a street cruiser you're advice to skip the extra cost may be sound. Perhaps you can provide a bit more info on your experience such as vehicle use, driving style, shift points, single or multi-disc clutch to help folks compare your experience with their planned use and equipment choices. Many users are very happy with the TKO as their use stays within the capability of the stock transmission. The tipping point from good to bad is typically when trying to shift quickly at higher RPM. There will be a point (RPM) that the stock synchros will not slow or speed up the next selected gear quickly enough and will block the slider causing a missed shift. If you watch the video American Powertrain made showing how to shift the TKO they attempt to show how well it shifts. Their point of view is that it's operator error when a TKO misses a gear. However, the video shows them short shifting (shifting at a lower RPM) and even then there is a noticeable slight hesitation between gears.

    So for a typical street driven car not pushed for maximum performance the TKO works fine for many folks. But if you have a high performance car you want to shift at peak power that TKO may disappoint you. That's where the modifications to the synchros help. Of course if you never need that capability then the modifications are not value added. For some of us, the modifications are required to support the performance capability of our cars. Knowing the TKO's limitations and your personal planned use will help you decide if modifications will be necessary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Derald Rice View Post
    I just recently bought a TKO 600 from Bob Hanlon (Hanlon motorsports), and Pennzoil was his recommendation.
    My supplier also specifically recommended Pennzoil. That's why I'm using it.
    Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
    Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
    Road Legal August 31, 2017

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    Senior Member smithbks's Avatar
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    Naz, please specify the high RPM you are concerned with. I ask because my car will redline at 6000 RPM and most of the optimum shifts occur in the 5-5500 RPM range. I wouldn't have called that high RPM before owning a Cobra.

    I love how long this thread has gotten. The basic conclusion has been "my opinion is x", and "your opinion is y". I guess Paul (edwardB) warned us at the beginning.
    Mk4 #8340, 351w/427, 3-link, Wilwood 4 piston rear brakes, 3.27 gear, TKO600, delivered June 18th, 2014

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    I have a 2004 vintage TKO-600. About 60k miles on it now with different clutches, 2 but soon to be 3 different cars. Liberty upgrades of about $800 at somewhere around 50k miles. I've also run many fluids starting with Dexron and trying Cobra Valley's lube, Royal Purple Syncro-Max and RedLine MTL. MTL seem to work pretty well.

    For all of that it's still notchy and requires a bit of determined effort to go up or down through the gears. Wouldn'y try anything fancy like shifting w/o the clutch. Shifting at higher RPM is a process of waiting for the RPM to drop and match rather than expecting the syncros to line up.

    But perhaps it's horsepower or running to 7,000 or the mid shift location whatever I do or try it's less than an exciting experience.

    Unfortunately there aren't many options providing reasonable gear selections and OD. All indications are that the T56 Magnum is a much better shifting transmission but it's longer and heavier. If I was starting over and didn't have the current investment I'd probably go with the T56.

    Jim

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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Hi Naz

    My car is tuned for a 6500RPM shift point & so far 7K miles have not hung up on a shift. I found the 2/3 not to be problematic as the trans pulls the shifter to the 3rd gear slot. Have been brain dead on occasion & made the 1/2 shift in the 7000/7200RPM range without missing the gear. I do back off the throttle somewhat on shifting even when drag racing so maybe that's why so far so good.

    Downshifting also goes well with a quick blip on the throttle. As for gear oil have followed the manufactures recommendation.

    EDIT: I should add I love that blip sound.

    My personal experience with manuals goes back to an ordered 1962 409/409 Chevy & have always has at least on to drive ever since.

    Specifically how hard are you guys working the trans to require the mods? What I am trying to get a handle on is with a high horsepower 450whp or so in a light 2300lbs car that can be traction limited are muscle car style shifts necessary?
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 07-14-2017 at 09:46 AM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
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    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    Hi Naz

    My car is tuned for a 6500RPM shift point & so far 7K miles have not hung up on a shift. I found the 2/3 not to be problematic as the trans pulls the shifter to the 3rd gear slot. Have been brain dead on occasion & made the 1/2 shift in the 7000/7200RPM range without missing the gear. I do back off the throttle somewhat on shifting even when drag racing so maybe that's why so far so good.

    Downshifting also goes well with a quick blip on the throttle. As for gear oil have followed the manufactures recommendation.

    My personal experience with manuals goes back to 1962 & have always has at least on to drive.

    Specifically how hard are you guys working the trans to require the mods?

    My experience as well Kevin. I've told many people it not like your driving your wife's Miata. The shift takes a little more effort. As you said, 2/3 may be a challenge for some who are "forcing it". But then, the natural position for the shift level in neutral always lines up with 3rd. knowing that makes the 2/3 shift a whole lot easier.
    Good point about the trans mods vs need. Many mods discussed on the forum are more for personal preference and car show bragging rights, than they are about pushing the performance envelope. (BTW, before I get a long winded defensive reply to that last comment, let it be known...I also fall into that category)

  32. #32
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Expect it might be long recessed muscle memory. Dating myself with a back in the day with the M21/22 transmissions if you had a pretty much dedicated drag racer a "slick shift" box was made by milling off every other tooth or every second tooth in the syncro assembly to maximize shift speed. No clutch was used just a throttle blip on the shifts.
    Kevin
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  33. #33
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    The car with our TKO has a World products 427(tall deck 351) Makes around 500Hp and 480 LbFt Tq. The car is NOT raced and like I said both drivers are VERY experienced in Manual Trans shifting. THis Trans was a problem from day one and Never "broke in" Car has NEVER
    been power shifted. The problem was the 2-3 shift . We tried to be very carefull to pay attention to that shift and still had problems. After Liberty did the mods we can shift it all day long even at higher revs (5800) with no problems. We were sure we had full clutch disengagement while shifting.
    I can't say who is right and who is wrong but I can tell you my findings. The choice is obviously yours.
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  34. #34
    Member TMScrogins's Avatar
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    My experience is very similar to BEAR-AvHistory's (Kevin's). I run an Aluminator XS Coyote motor on E-85 with a McLeod Twin-disc RST clutch. 525 bhp. (465whp) with an 8100 rpm redline. I also have traction control that works exceptionally well such that I can bang gears at high revs without breaking the tires loose. That said, this is a street car, not a drag car. I don't generally drive my car banging gears at peak RPMs. Though I have tried to test the limits of the vehicle but come up short as my limits are certainly met well before the vehicle's (I can test 1/2 and 2/3 shifts at high RPMs but not the higher gears due to safety). I've actually done a 2/3 shift at 82 mph/7,266 RPM with zero issues (I datalog everything when I drive as I do my own tuning). The Coyote motors like high revs and they are very comfortable and come alive around 4,000 RPM. Thus these engines are happier with shifts in the higher ranges than many other powerplants simply because of where the power band lies. I may be wrong and this might just be my own conjecture, but I would think that if those with stock TKOs and Coyote combinations are happy with the trans shifting behavior then I think the TKO would be very suitable for many other engine combinations with redlines and power bands at or below that of a Coyote. For higher RPM/bigger power engines, well, I don't know. I don't have any experience with that in these cars.

    As I said in my previous post, I can tell no difference between the stock and upgraded TKO 600. I'm not saying there aren't benefits to the upgrade, but my untechnical analysis indicates that I can't tell a difference in behavior at these higher RPM quick shifts for how I drive and use my vehicle.

    Oh, and lastly, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A BALANCED DRIVESHAFT or it won't matter much which version of the TKO you decide to go with.

    TKO600.jpg


    Trevor

  35. #35
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Like I said in my other response, the opinions on this subject are going to be all over the place. And those with experience on both may or may not agree the mod is necessary. Like so many parts of these builds it's a personal choice and there's no right or wrong answer. In the end it still pretty subjective, plus based on expectations, how the car is driven, etc.

    I can only state the following: My modded TKO's click into every gear with an easy push with one or two fingers. The 2nd to 3rd shift goes easily by pushing diagonally from lower left to upper right. I did some high RPM (for me...) runs on the charity rides at the London show a few weeks ago and didn't miss a gear. Never thought about it actually. If every TKO shifted like my Liberty modded versions (I've had two) then not sure TKO shifting would even be a forum discussion. Not a car show thing either, BTW. Not typically discussed or even mentioned.
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