Modifying a manual rack and pinion to a power rack and pinion.

[JCLipka]

I have been looking at the options for power steering. Don't need anyone to try to talk me out of it, don't wanna hear folks go on and on about how the original cars didn't have it..lol...I'm gonna do it-I want it. I have a modern car with a classic body that NEVER breaks down and needs very little from me..most dependable screaming fast car a person could ever want...complete with high power stereo, seat heaters, metal flakes in my paint, fuel injection, an automatic transmission, (albeit massively upgraded and capable of shifting faster than 95% of most humans) and all that new fangled garbage that would make many of the purists out there groan in disgust. But I'm sick to death of trying to keep reasonably low air pressure in my tires for the extra gripping power and then trying to parallel park!
Could use some opinions each way..from people who have actually done it.

Yes, the electric systems out there seem to make the job pretty short and sweet, but is it really worth that much more money to do without a standard pump setup? This is how I see each job, am I thinking clearly?

Replacing the manual 93 mustang rack with a power rack is easy and cheap, ($250 for a polished power rack on eBay)--much less for a standard swap, get a nice bracket, pump, belt and pulley upgrade from 2-3 slot and get a couple nice hoses--boom, its done, not expensive and simple. $600?
The electric systems require you to make a custom bracket, remove the steering shaft, have it cut and modified to accept the D-Couplings. Install the unit inline, Run an ignition hot, a constant hot, a ground and a speed sensor wire and its over. $1500 for the unit and $150 for shaft machining for the set-screw D coupling type, and because I do not have a welder of my own right now, maybe another $50 to have the weldable D bracket ends welded on.

Advantages of Electric system--no engine drag, no hoses, no messy liquids, no caveating (not that I would have problems with that unless fluid got low)
Advantages of Old School system; Exactly that..bulletproof and cheap.

Looking forward to hearing what you'all have to say..thanks for your time.
John Lipka

[rich grsc]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...power+steering

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm a follower of the KISS philosophy and have used OEM components on my PS builds. Here's a cut and paste from a reply I made to another builder:

****************
Some builders invest a bunch of money into high end pumps and racks but allow me detail the other end of the spectrum which I've done on 3 different roadster builds now. This can can be completed for under $400 using reliable OEM components along with aftermarket mounting hardware and plumbing.

Steering rack; choose one:
---Autozone #64163; 2.25 turns lock to lock $75+$18 core =$93
---Autozone #6439; 2.5 turns lock to lock $75+$18 core =$93
---Autozone #6406; 3.0 turns lock to lock $54+$20 core =$74
The 3.0 turn rack is my recommendation for a street/occasional track car. Use the quicker versions for cars that will see serious autocross and track duty.

Power steering pump:
---Autozone #6383 with reservior $45+$24 core =$79

Mounting bracket and pulley:
---CFR Performance bracket #HZ-4306 $55
---CFR Performance pulley #HZ-02011 $40
CFR also offers entire pulley and bracket sets in various anodized or powder coated finishes as well as polished or chrome for a fraction of what a comparable March set will cost. I've used them on two builds; they work well and are a great value.

Hoses and fittings:
---1) Breeze #70516 P/S rack AN adapters $26.00
---1) Breeze #21514 P/S pump AN adapter $13.00
---2) Breeze #21523 Straight AN hose ends $15.00
---1) Breeze #21524 90 degree AN hose end $17.50
---4 FT. Breeze #21102 Braided Teflon hose $19.60

Do a little searching on this as well as the other forum and you'll turn up plenty of discussion on the power steering topic, much of it I've participated in. If you prefer a little less assist you can trim the relief spring until you get to the desired level then forget about it. I use my car on the track a lot and run the quick 2.25 rack in conjunction with an adjustable Heidts valve to regulate the amount of assist (full boost on the track, reduced on the street). If you go this route the valve and additional plumbing will run in the neighborhood of $150.

Good luck,
Jeff

[CraigS]

A slight upgrade to the parts Jeff listed would be to get everything from Breeze. Another option is electro-hydraulic from Fast Freddie.
http://www.fastfreddiesfabrications....p?id_product=4
Use the same rack but use his pump to power it. BTW, I strongly second the 3.0 turns rack. Oh, don't forget you will need a different end for your steering column since the splines on the rack are different power to manual.

[beeman]

I have Hydraulic power steering in my roadster, absolutely love it. Remanufactured rack like in Jeff's post above. That being said, I can't say I wouldn't go electric if I was building a roadster now, with the GM unit and the adjustable controller. Much simpler system, no drag, and I can't stand these little drips of power steering fluid! I have already put the GM electric unit into my GTM (but have not driven it yet).