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Thread: Carb choke question

  1. #1

    Carb choke question

    Can anyone tell me what the deal with this choke is?
    It looks like a manual choke but there is no cable to the inside of the car.

    Thanks in advance
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  2. #2


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    It's been cheesed up to hold the blade wide open rendering the choke inoperable.

    Jeff

  3. #3
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Look Maw, Great Coat Hanger!
    Looks like something you'd see way down here in the Deep South where the mosquitoes grow large.

    Steve

  4. #4
    ok make sense. So this choke is wired wide open.
    It starts fine after a single pump of the gas and a bit of feathering until it warms up.

    Might look into an electronic choke down the road, but it is working fine as is for now.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Look Maw, Great Coat Hanger!
    Looks like something you'd see way down here in the Deep South where the mosquitoes grow large.

    Steve
    What do you mean exactly?

  6. #6
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gooch View Post
    What do you mean exactly?
    Gooch,

    I live in the deep down South near New Orleans and it is always so hot down here so folks often use a piece of wire that Resembles A Coat Hanger to lock the choke in the open position. Since Holley carbs tend to run fat (RICH) a lot of guys steer clear of electric chokes and often go with choke-less style race carbs.

    Steve

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Gooch,

    I live in the deep down South near New Orleans and it is always so hot down here so folks often use a piece of wire that Resembles A Coat Hanger to lock the choke in the open position. Since Holley carbs tend to run fat (RICH) a lot of guys steer clear of electric chokes and often go with choke-less style race carbs.

    Steve
    awww I see
    I am in Newfoundland Canada and the weather is not as nice haha
    however the car only leaves the garage when it is sunny and warm.

    So there is no issues with not running a choke then?

    I have been have another issue of flooding sometimes after a long drive. When I turn it off and then try to restart its flooded. I am thinking I might need to add a heat shield and phenolic spacer.

  8. #8
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    A Phenolic Spacer may help; however, hood clearance is always an issues with these cars.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1402

    Steve

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    A Phenolic Spacer may help; however, hood clearance is always an issues with these cars.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1402

    Steve
    I'm a big fan of those spacers.. and heat insulating the fuel lines around the engine.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Since there is no spacer there now, I'd add one in a heartbeat. Now you have to research whether you want one w/ 4 holes or not. Sorry, it's been too long for me to remember the pluses and minuses.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  11. #11
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Since there is no spacer there now, I'd add one in a heartbeat. Now you have to research whether you want one w/ 4 holes or not. Sorry, it's been too long for me to remember the pluses and minuses.
    A 4 hole spacer increases the mixing column so they tend to create a little more bottom end torque since they increase the vacuum pulse signal to the carburetor.
    A divided spacer will tend to retain the existing torque curve, but can push the power up the RPM range a bit depending on the engine combination and height of the spacer since you are increasing the plenum volume.
    The open spacer will reduce the pulse signal to the carb and vacuum signal which tends to hurt bottom end torque; however, it often adds power on the upper end of the RPM range because you now have a more open plenum.
    A clover leaf style spacer is similar to the 4 hole and open style spacer and is basically a compromise between those designs.

    4 Hole:

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8723/overview/

    Divided:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8722

    Open:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8724/overview/

    Clover Leaf:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-62100002

    Just remember that tuning may be needed after any modification, especially when moving to an open or clover leaf style spacer on a dual plane style intake since both create a common or open plenum.
    Also, please check your hood clearance before you order or purchase any carb spacer or air cleaner.

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 07-16-2017 at 12:57 PM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Thanks for filling in GoDadgo.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  13. #13
    Thanks for the help guys
    I am going to add the 1/2" phenolic spacer with four holes. (fingers crossed I do not have to do any tuning, since I am a newbie when it comes to this stuff)

    https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1HPKHnsxpL.jpg

    I have also ordered a carb heat shield that is suppose to help block heat getting to the gas reservoirs on either side of the carb.
    https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1kfB7oOXoL.jpg



    Wish me luck

  14. #14
    Here's what my manual choke looks like, although I've removed the choke plate and just use the fast idle for warm up, lets me hold the throttle at 1500 RPM. I'd get a cable from Summit and hook it up. You'll probably like it on cold Canadian days. Scott

    New Dash 004.jpg

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