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Thread: The turbomacncheese build thread

  1. #41
    I've used inserts before, I'm not worried about them failing, and I already have the standard studs. Hard enough to swallow $375 to fix this. I can't justify another $8-900 on a mild engine like this one.

    Thanks though. Certainly gives me something to think about in the event I decide to build a hi-boost Subaru. Skip the drama and go straight for the big guns.

  2. #42
    Went a bit more smoothly than I had expected. I didn't anticipate needing a 1/2 inch drill, although I suppose I should have. Not gonna lie, I shopped these tools on price, and NS300L came out ahead, but it was the service I got from Norm that sealed the deal on these. Super responsive, and made sure he was giving me the right answer before he'd give me any answer. These inserts are absolutely solid. Here is one, compared to the ARP stud. And don't judge me on all the wood "scraps" in the background. I was irritated last week when this thing went south and started building my dolly instead. Yeah, didn't finish that either. And yes, I bagged the block first.
    20171013_181056.jpg
    Tool comes with a jig to help with drill/tap alignment. It has a slot cut in one end, and a circle in the other for bushings. An alignment pin ensures the jig is set up properly, just hold it down firmly while tightening a bolt into one of the provided spacers.
    2.jpg2.jpg3.jpg
    Duct tape, rags, and more duct tape (most of a roll when it was all said and done) to keep chips (god, so many chips) out of important places.
    20171015_101447.jpg
    Drill it, and keep blowing the chips (god, so many chips) out of the hole. The drill has a blunt tip, so it stops at the bottom of the hole. It doesn't bite, so its easy to tell when the drill isn't loaded anymore and the bit is just spinning.
    4.jpg
    Load the tap bushing and start tapping. It came with two. A 3 flute for the heavy work and most of the tapping, and a 4 flute bottom tap for the last few threads. And don't forget to blow out the chips (god, so many chips). Once I got the first tap in as far as I wanted, I could remove it and the jig, and finish with the 4 flute tap.
    20171015_102257.jpg20171015_103026.jpg
    Engine degreaser for all that cutting fluid, and to help float some of the chips (god, so many chips) before blowing them out with compressed air.
    20171015_103252.jpg
    Super secret acetone source for cleanup
    20171015_103505.jpg20171015_103657.jpg
    I'm out of pictures for this post. Continued in the next one...
    Last edited by turbomacncheese; 10-15-2017 at 09:24 PM.

  3. #43
    Some red threadlock. The kit comes with a small bottle, but I ran out after 8 or so, and had to crack into my stash. Ok, it's not a stash. It's a bottle I bought for the flywheel bolts.
    20171015_103821.jpg
    Install the insert with the provided tool, which fits into notches cut on the insert. You can see where I notched the tool to indicate the proper insert depth. Recommended in the instructions, not my idea.
    20171015_103922.jpg20171015_104034.jpg
    Verify the depth at 1.6 to 1.75 inches.
    20171015_104145.jpg
    After the first couple of inserts, I figured out how far to thread the second tap so the insert would bottom out in the threads at the correct height. Probably doesn't make a difference, but it felt nice to have it snug against something down there. With studs, once they are torqued, I can't imagine the inserts would move at all, even without the locktite. But it did feel a little...off...that they don't have a positive lock like the timeserts. So I checked the couple I did with the insert tool, and I thought I was going to start bending the thing and still the inserts weren't budging. I don't think there is anything to worry about here.

    I double checked for stray aluminum chips (god, so many chips) with my flashlight, air compressor, and some grease, and I'm 99.9999% certain I was successful at keeping them out of anywhere important. If I missed any, they are about the size of standard dust.

    In total, the kit came with the jig, two spacers, a bushing for the drill, one for the taps, cutting fluid, a ruler I didn't use, threadlock I used completely, and SEVENTEEN inserts - which is why I was able to do my whole block. The timesert kit was more expense, and only included 10. Bonus, the outer diameter/threads of these inserts are common between several sizes, so if I end up with a different type of block and the same problem, I may be able to just buy some inserts and get to work. But let's hope I don't have to.

  4. #44
    a fun and successful weekend.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  5. #45
    I don't know that fun is the right word. Maybe if I had anticipated this expense, and didn't have to call all my friends to borrow a drill....

    Satisfying, yes. Successful, yes. Fun...ask me again once it's running, lol.

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