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Thread: The turbomacncheese build thread

  1. #41
    I've used inserts before, I'm not worried about them failing, and I already have the standard studs. Hard enough to swallow $375 to fix this. I can't justify another $8-900 on a mild engine like this one.

    Thanks though. Certainly gives me something to think about in the event I decide to build a hi-boost Subaru. Skip the drama and go straight for the big guns.

  2. #42
    Went a bit more smoothly than I had expected. I didn't anticipate needing a 1/2 inch drill, although I suppose I should have. Not gonna lie, I shopped these tools on price, and NS300L came out ahead, but it was the service I got from Norm that sealed the deal on these. Super responsive, and made sure he was giving me the right answer before he'd give me any answer. These inserts are absolutely solid. Here is one, compared to the ARP stud. And don't judge me on all the wood "scraps" in the background. I was irritated last week when this thing went south and started building my dolly instead. Yeah, didn't finish that either. And yes, I bagged the block first.
    20171013_181056.jpg
    Tool comes with a jig to help with drill/tap alignment. It has a slot cut in one end, and a circle in the other for bushings. An alignment pin ensures the jig is set up properly, just hold it down firmly while tightening a bolt into one of the provided spacers.
    2.jpg2.jpg3.jpg
    Duct tape, rags, and more duct tape (most of a roll when it was all said and done) to keep chips (god, so many chips) out of important places.
    20171015_101447.jpg
    Drill it, and keep blowing the chips (god, so many chips) out of the hole. The drill has a blunt tip, so it stops at the bottom of the hole. It doesn't bite, so its easy to tell when the drill isn't loaded anymore and the bit is just spinning.
    4.jpg
    Load the tap bushing and start tapping. It came with two. A 3 flute for the heavy work and most of the tapping, and a 4 flute bottom tap for the last few threads. And don't forget to blow out the chips (god, so many chips). Once I got the first tap in as far as I wanted, I could remove it and the jig, and finish with the 4 flute tap.
    20171015_102257.jpg20171015_103026.jpg
    Engine degreaser for all that cutting fluid, and to help float some of the chips (god, so many chips) before blowing them out with compressed air.
    20171015_103252.jpg
    Super secret acetone source for cleanup
    20171015_103505.jpg20171015_103657.jpg
    I'm out of pictures for this post. Continued in the next one...
    Last edited by turbomacncheese; 10-15-2017 at 09:24 PM.

  3. #43
    Some red threadlock. The kit comes with a small bottle, but I ran out after 8 or so, and had to crack into my stash. Ok, it's not a stash. It's a bottle I bought for the flywheel bolts.
    20171015_103821.jpg
    Install the insert with the provided tool, which fits into notches cut on the insert. You can see where I notched the tool to indicate the proper insert depth. Recommended in the instructions, not my idea.
    20171015_103922.jpg20171015_104034.jpg
    Verify the depth at 1.6 to 1.75 inches.
    20171015_104145.jpg
    After the first couple of inserts, I figured out how far to thread the second tap so the insert would bottom out in the threads at the correct height. Probably doesn't make a difference, but it felt nice to have it snug against something down there. With studs, once they are torqued, I can't imagine the inserts would move at all, even without the locktite. But it did feel a little...off...that they don't have a positive lock like the timeserts. So I checked the couple I did with the insert tool, and I thought I was going to start bending the thing and still the inserts weren't budging. I don't think there is anything to worry about here.

    I double checked for stray aluminum chips (god, so many chips) with my flashlight, air compressor, and some grease, and I'm 99.9999% certain I was successful at keeping them out of anywhere important. If I missed any, they are about the size of standard dust.

    In total, the kit came with the jig, two spacers, a bushing for the drill, one for the taps, cutting fluid, a ruler I didn't use, threadlock I used completely, and SEVENTEEN inserts - which is why I was able to do my whole block. The timesert kit was more expense, and only included 10. Bonus, the outer diameter/threads of these inserts are common between several sizes, so if I end up with a different type of block and the same problem, I may be able to just buy some inserts and get to work. But let's hope I don't have to.

  4. #44
    a fun and successful weekend.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  5. #45
    I don't know that fun is the right word. Maybe if I had anticipated this expense, and didn't have to call all my friends to borrow a drill....

    Satisfying, yes. Successful, yes. Fun...ask me again once it's running, lol.

  6. #46
    Well well well, guess who showed up?
    20171022_172617.jpg
    Kids were happy to finally see it.
    818 max and bee.jpg 818 lil tony.jpg

    I took personal time from work Monday/Tuesday in case the truck ran into problems and was late, but he was EARLY so I had all day Monday to inventory and Tuesday to remove/store body parts and aluminum. Inventory only saw a couple issues not marked on the POL, which have already been addressed by Factory Five, so no worries. I will say that it's a little...sad to pay a couple thousand to prepare for a project like this, 10k for the project, and a couple more to ship it and then get a part with rusty brackets. But I'll clean them up and paint them, and it will all be ok. Just a bit odd to have all these laser cut parts, tig welds on the frame, the whole thing computer designed... and then grass and dirt stuck to the inside of the doors. Whatever, I'm still stoked and so are the kids. This thing is going to be RAD.
    20171024_171616.jpg

  7. #47
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Well at least one in the family will pass the broomstick test.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #48
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    Congrats on the kit delivery. That's always an exciting day.

  9. #49
    That's a perfect pic to show where you started. Needs a "vroom, vroom"!

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...2&d=1508896595
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  10. #50

  11. #51
    You are sick, Tony! Fortunately, you are starting a build, which can be therapeutic.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  12. #52
    Seriously, this engine should have been back together 3 weekends ago. Found a TON of corrosion in the vent tube. Looked like swiss cheese once I started poking at it. And it looked GREAT before I scrubbed the powder coat off. I only started poking at it because it blew very VERY small bubbles after a degreaser bath.swiss cheese.jpg Those all started as pinholes that showed up after I started heating it to get rid of some of the gunk inside. After the second hole, it was just to see how many were there.

    Got the wrong cam gear bolts from flatirons, but the timing covers are beautiful.



    I also spent an hour looking for the dipstick tube because that's what happens when you have 4 or 5 months between taking something apart and putting it back together. Finally found it by accident as I was quitting for the day on a shelf I checked at least 4 times.
    Current state of affairs.
    current state.jpg

  13. #53
    I think I lost 5-6 cumulative hours on my build looking for the ratchet I had in my hand

  14. #54
    Shoot, I'm going to need to fly you to my place for my WRX daily driver engine build. Talk about clean!
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  15. #55
    Since I mentioned the bolts I got from FlatIrons, I gotta say that they got back to me this afternoon. I feel like they took really good care of me here, and I won't hesitate to spend money there in the future. FlatIrons Tuning: expectations = exceeded.

    Quote Originally Posted by phil1734 View Post
    I think I lost 5-6 cumulative hours on my build looking for the ratchet I had in my hand
    No joke. I did that a couple times yesterday looking for gaskets I was holding on to.

    Quote Originally Posted by q4stix View Post
    Shoot, I'm going to need to fly you to my place for my WRX daily driver engine build. Talk about clean!
    Thanks, that really did feel good to hear! Now that I've got a little practice, we should be able to knock out your engine in what, 5 maybe 6 weekends? lol.
    Last edited by turbomacncheese; 11-06-2017 at 08:58 PM.

  16. #56
    Pretty sure I got everything where it's supposed to go on this engine up to the turbo except the alternator (which I'm going to have tested) and the power steering pump (which I'm going to try rebuilding). Got the front axles apart tonight. Spent about an hour on one of them during the weekend. Tried banging them through the press, no dice.

    Finally, tonight, went through my bucket-o-bits that I keep next to the press and found some steel collars from when I took the wheel bearings apart. Did a fair job of staying on the cv spider. I took both boots off the axle, as well as the 3-prong gimmick on the other side so it was just axle and cv stub. Propped the steel collar up on the press plates, removed the ram so I had more room, slid the axle into the collar(stub up), grabbed the stub, raised it high and slammed it down about 6 times (a la pipe trick) and it finally let go. Did the other axle the same way and it popped off with the first go (wasn't even that hard).
    20171120_182122S.jpg

  17. #57
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Rasmus has a great write up on Nabisco about rebuilding the PS pump. i bought the o-ring kit on eBay after someone mistakenly filled mine with power steering fluid (hint don't)

    mine's been leak free for a year now and making great pressure.


    you are going to need long PS lines to make it work, do you have some sourced?
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  18. #58
    I think I came across that writeup before, plus a few videos on youtube. It'll be my first, but no reason I can't do it. And I gotta say that's the first time I heard somebody say "Don't put power steering fluid in a power steering pump." Care to enlighten me?

    As for the lines, AZPete had some made around here someplace, and I'm sure he'll share the secret with me when I get that far.

  19. #59
    Put in the front firewall this long weekend. drilled the two bottom floor pans but didn't attach either one. I know I'll want the rear off for access to the seats. Not sure of any reason to leave the front off, but I'll come up with something, I'm sure.

    Also put my front wheel bearings/hubs back together. Checked the brake disks for thickness/runout and decided to run them as is. Put together my coilovers and tore the Koni sticker, so I guess those are pointing INSIDE now, lol.

    Stopped there because when I did my inventory I noticed I was missing the zirk/cotter pin for one of the upper ball joints, and somehow did NOT register that I was missing the f'ing BOOTS. I said it somewhere else, but I can be pretty dense sometimes.

    On a related note, did anybody else get opened upper ball joints from FFR?
    Last edited by turbomacncheese; 11-28-2017 at 07:27 AM.

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