Ride height revisited

[DMC7492]

I am in the same boat as I have changed the weight of my 818S project. Added weight with structural components in the front, middle and rear. Now to get the rear to 5 inches the rear adjuster is near the limit.
After spending two nights looking at all the posts about spring rates I am more confused. Street driven only, No Aero, I am focusing on 400 rear springs and 500 fronts to eliminate burning the fenders with the front tires and bottoming out on speed bumps. When I carted 165 miles all was good but then added the body and extras now the adjusters are maxxed in the rear.

Are these spring rates consistent with the new normal??

I read Jim Shenck mentioned putting the 500 in front and the 350 in the rear on a non raced street version of the R.
Here's a quote from the R supplemental instructions.

" The front shocks are pre-valved at the factory in compression and rebound for good street use. The
shocks can be adjusted in rebound as per Koni’s instructions if so desired. The front springs are
500lb. Other springs are available for different ride characteristics."
Thanks Guys for your hard work and dedication to theses projects!! Don

[phil1734]

The rear adjusters are near the top of the threads on all the 818s, it doesn't really matter as long as you're still in the threads. If you're worried about it I would make a spacer rather then go to stiffer springs.

I have arguably the lightest 818s, but I've never had any issues with bumps or rubbing on the street. I imagine going that stiff with springs would cause more issues than it could ever possibly solve. With no aero, I've actually thought about going down on stiffness to increase mechanical grip. The car is very easily upset over broken and uneven pavement, particularly with wide rear tires. (Michigan roads - wasn't Trump supposed to fix all this? )

The real problem with ground clearance in the 818 is the break-over angle on the front. The front overhang is absurdly long and thus tends to scrape a lot.

[SixStar]

When I first built my 818R I used the 'R' ride height with 500F and 350R and it was terrible.

Under power the car would squat onto the bump stops and plow. I would actually have to lift and brake the get it to turn at all.

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It even did the BMW thing if I forced it to, lifting a front tire under power through a steady state turn

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I've since gone back to the 'S' ride height and moved the springs back to 350FR and 500RR. I tried 550 rears and while it didn't rub as much it was way too loose.

VERY tail happy, do note this was on 200TW tires - https://youtu.be/RForMijf4YM

The current setup is VERY stable and perdictible, she'll even hold a slide to a point - https://youtu.be/ym6r_yyNB6s

You could always go to a longer spring with the same rate to get some more adjustment. The great thing about the very basic shocks we have is that the springs are generic and can be found anywhere.

[Harley818]

What is the best way to adjust the shock/spring adjusters? I recall it was difficult to hold the sleeve and using the FFR tool, to rotate the spring retainer.......on my own.
Do you need two people or is there an easier trick?
I need to get mine to the top. I wanted to be at 5 inches but I'm at 3 3/4

[DMC7492]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...t=Strap+wrench
A strap wrench on the sleeve and the FFR scanner wrench on the collar anti seize helps and take the weight off the spring
Search "adjusting konis"

[phil1734]

And make sure you've backed off the set screw in the collar!

[lance corsi]

It really is a terrible setup. Koni shocks disappointed me! The adjustment is horrible. I replaced mine with some QA1 externally adjustable shocks. Separate adjustments for compression & rebound, 30 positions each way. And you don't have to take the shock off to adjust, or rescale the car.

[Harley818]

OK, I turned the set screw loose, then squirt some WD40, and with a strap wrench easily adjusted the height. much easier than I remember originally.

[taco20]

It really is a terrible setup. Koni shocks disappointed me! The adjustment is horrible. I replaced mine with some QA1 externally adjustable shocks. Separate adjustments for compression & rebound, 30 positions each way. And you don't have to take the shock off to adjust, or rescale the car.

Hey which QA1 shocks did you go with? I was thinking of going the same direction. Do you feel they were worth the investment over stock?

[lance corsi]

If I think about it tomorrow, I'll check for you. I bought the extended travel springs to prevent any spring dislodging, used the same spring rates as ff for starters, however I put the stiffer springs on the rear. I'm not running the recommended suspension, however my shock length and travel is same as ff. I'm planning to use it as a road car, so I don't want a harsh ride.
The procedure for adjusting the Konis was the reason I changed!
Even though the qa1 shocks have many adjustment settings they are designed for a range of vehicles, weighing various amounts. A heavy car might be at the upper setting range (20-25) while an 818 may be happy at the lower end (5-8). My set cost $1800.00 and I'm quite happy with them. Aluminum body, rebuildable, double spring adjuster nuts, heim swivels both ends, body fully threaded, and best of all, MADE IN AMERICA!

[Blwalker105]

Jeez Lance! You balk at $185 for inner fenders than drop near 2k on MIA suspension parts?

My 2-cents: Pacific Rim quality is coming up fast, MIA parts prices are rising faster now that everybody wants to make $125 an hour here. I now look, when possible, at the Czech Republic and surrounding countries for reasonably priced, high quality stuff.

[lance corsi]

I'll always reserve my first choice for Made In America.
The inner fenders just didn't look worth the price to me. I'll make what I can , and buy the stuff I can't make!

[Blwalker105]

My brand new rear Wilwood, Made-in-America inner parking/emergency brake rear drum assemblies have been machined out-of-concentricity, which might make them quasi-acceptable for parking on a snowy hill, but which makes them totally unacceptable for emergency brake usage says buyer beware! I now have to go thru the hassle of detaching the rotors from the hubs, shipping said hubs back to Wilwood, hoping they get it right, hasseling them to get my shipping $ back, reattaching the rotors and hoping they got it right this time. Not so confidence-inspiring!

[lance corsi]

Sorry if I misled you. I'm sure some other countries produce quality goods, but I have this thing about buying American made goods. If China has ever made anything of quality, they sure didn't send it to the USA. Price shopping doesn't get the best product. But you do whatever makes you happy while I patronise my fellow american manufacturers. G'day!

[Blwalker105]

Just pokin' at ya! I'm mostly with you, but I do become annoyed with lax manufacturing practices for top-dollar items. Must be gettin' crotchety as I head toward senior citizenship.