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Thread: Matt's Gen2 65 Coupe Build Thread

  1. #41

    Side Pipes

    When I first received the kit I took out the side pipes and figured I'd better paint them before they got rusty. I didn't know how long it would be before I'd have a chance to use them. I brought them to my Dad's house and bead blasted them clean. I then used some high heat primer on them. Then followed that up with a couple of coats of Rust-Oleum High Heat Ultra "Semi-Gloss" black paint. I don't know how well it will last, but figured I could easily touch it up later if I had to. Also wanted to go with black to match the black wheels.

    I wanted to get the pipes on for the first start to see how loud it will be with these. I thought it might be tight fitting them on. I went to put the driver's side on and try to slide them on the header. Nope, wouldn't go. I jammed wood shims in the headers and a clamp on the muffler to bring the two pipes closer so they would fit. Nope. Ok, let me try one of the two pipes onto one of the header pipes. Nope, not even close. Time to start grinding, sanding, filing, dremeling, etc. At this point I didn't care about scratching anything, I just wanted to be able to slide the pipes on. Finally after a few hours of taking a little bit off at a time of both the outside of the header and the inside of the mufflers, I was able to slide the driver's side on. Put on the clamps and called it a night. The passenger side would wait until the next night.

    Time for the passenger side. Looking at the two pipes of the muffler for the passenger side, I could see that the metal at the end was much thinner on one of the two pipes. That side would easily slide over the header. The other one was the same thickness as both of the driver side pipes. This needed grinding to fit on, but at least I was prepared for it this time. I ground away and was able to get this side on much easier. Put the clamps on and went to bed.

    Back to the drivers side, the header was slightly touching the corner of the driver's foot box. To gain more clearance, I cut the footbox and bent it in. I still need to make the outside piece fit, and will get to this soon.

    Here you can see the cut in the footbox that I needed to make (as well as the grass still on the tires from my first go kart) to provide clearance for the header. Since my foot could never get in that corner, it shouldn't really impact the room in the footbox.:

    Here are a couple of pics of the passenger side of the car showing the black pipes and how the car sits now:

    I didn't install the hangers yet and will wait to do this after the body is on.


  2. #42

    Hazard and Turn Signals

    Back to the electric and the hazard switch and turn signals. For the hazard switch, I used the ON-ON double pole switch from the kit. For the turn signal, I was using the Russ Thompson turn signal. It took a bunch of research to figure out how I wanted to connect it up. Eventually I settled upon the following schematic:

    Normally, the hazard switch will be in the down position (connecting left to middle in the above picture), which connects the turn signal path. The middle connection of the hazard switch goes to the dash LED and front/rear lights for each side. Then the turn signal will function.

    With the hazard switch in the up position (connecting right to middle in the above picture), the turn signal will be bypassed and since the hazard flasher connects to both the left and the right side of the switch, both sides will flash.


  3. #43

    Outside Pictures

    Here are a few more pictures of the car outside after the first start:


  4. #44

    Front and Backup Cameras

    I wanted to have a backup camera on the car since I figured it would probably be difficult to see out the back. Then I decided, why not a front one as well? I spent a bunch of time trying to research different ones as well as how to display the pictures.

    I decided that I wanted to use the rear view mirror to display the cameras. I ended up getting the CrimeStopper SecurView SV-9156.CT. This has a 4.3" LCD Screen, Compass and Thermometer and has 2 inputs.

    For the cameras I got 2 PyleView PLCM38FRV cameras which can be used as a forward or a reverse camera (ie. flip image). There are 3 wires on the camera that can be tied together to reverse the image and show distance lines. For now I have the distance lines off and the rear camera reversed.

    Now for the fun part, hooking them up. Again back to the pencil and paper to map out the connections. I wanted the backup camera to turn on when in reverse, so I needed to use the reverse switch on the TKO500. To connect to that I bought the Ron Francis Wiring Transmission Backup Light Connector Pigtails PG-055. I also added in a manual override switch to turn on the backup camera when I wanted, while not in reverse. So I can see who's tailgating me. :) I didn't want to turn on the backup lights when using this manual override switch, so I can use it while driving and not have the backup lights turn on. This required me to connect it via the schematic below.
    The front camera will be powered all the time and the display can be turned on/off by a button on the mirror. So when the ACC is on, the front will display. If in reverse or I override it, the back will display.
    There's a green wire on the mirror that when at +12V will display the backup camera, so this had to be wired in.

    For the backup lights, I bought 2 Marker Lights - L488-Clear from Finish Line Accessories which match the Factory Five tail lights.

    Here's the schematic:

    Backup camera (not the final mount):

    Front camera (not the final mount):

    TKO pigtail. Hard to see.

    Override switch under the dash. The switch on the left is the backup camera override. Next to that is the radiator fan override switch, the dash dimmer, clock set button and AC temp knob.

    Here's a picture of the mirror showing the front camera. Also has the direction and the temperature.

    Lastly, I had to make a video to show it in action. Enjoy. :)


  5. #45

    Flash to Pass

    Time for another hand drawn schematic. I had bought the Russ Thompson turn signal system and at the end of the turn signal is a small button. Like many others I wanted to use this for the high beam switch. Also this button can be used as a "flash to pass" button. With that the headlight switch doesn't need to be on to flash them.

    Back to the documents and the forum to figure out how to wire this thing up. Also shown is that I wired up the fog lights to the low beam output signal. The thought is that when you put on the high beams, the fog lights will shut off. For the Relay Switch I used a Standard LR-35. Here's what I ended up with:

    Here you can see the headlight switch with the fog light switch under it.


  6. #46
    Senior Member Rodster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Orange County, CA
    Thanks Matt!
    Ordered Type 65 Complete Kit Aug 29, 2012 - The 50-50 $ale!
    Standard Width IRS; Halibrands - 17x9, 17x10.5
    Kit Arrived: Oct 9, 2012; Build Started: Oct 28, 2012

  7. #47
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Slidell, Louisiana
    Blog Entries
    So Totally Cool!

    Congratulations On This HUGE Milestone!

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